1900 MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE fuse

II-6 TROUBLESHOOTING
DIAGhUSTIC PROCEDURES
Gasoline Engines
1. Engine turns over, but wilt not start
a. Check fuel level in fuel tank, add fuel if empty.
b. Check battery condition and state of charge. If voltage and load test below specifica-
tion, charge or replace battery.
c. Check battery terminal and cable condition and tightness. Clean terminals and replace
damaged, worn or corroded cables.
d. Check fuel delivery system. If fuel is not reaching the fuel injectors, check for a loose
electrical connector or defective fuse, relay or fuel pump and replace as necessary.
e. Engine may have excessive wear or mechanical damage such as low cylinder cranking
pressure, a broken camshaft drive system, insufficient valve clearance or bent valves.
f. Check for fuel contamination such as water in the fuel. During winter months, the wa-
ter may freeze and cause a fuel restriction. Adding a fuel additive may help, however
the fuel system may require draining and purging with fresh fuel.
g. Check for ignition system failure. Check for loose or shorted wires or damaged igni-
tion system components. Check the spark plugs for excessive wear or incorrect elec-
trode gap. If the problem is worse in wet weather, check for shorts between the spark
plugs and the ignition coils.
h. Check the engine management system for a failed sensor or control module.
2. Engine does not turn over when attempting to start
a. Check the battery state of charge and condition. If the dash lights are not visible or
very dim when turning the ignition key on, the battery has either failed internally or
discharged, the battery cables are loose, excessively corroded or damaged, or the al-
ternator has failed or internally shorted, discharging the battery. Charge or replacethe
battery, clean or replace the battery cables, and check the alternator output.
b. Check the operation of the neutral safety switch. On automatic transmission vehicles,
try starting the vehicle in both Park and Neutral. On manual transmission vehicles, de-
press the clutch pedal and attempt to start. On some vehicles, these switches can be
adjusted. Make sure the switches or wire connectors are not loose or damaged. Re-
place or adjust the switches as necessary.
c. Check the starter motor, starter solenoid or relay, and starter motor cables and wires.
Check the ground from the engine to the chassis. Make sure the wires are not loose,
damaged, or corroded. If battery voltage is present at the starter relay, try using a re-
mote starter to start the vehicle for test purposes only. Replace any damaged or cor-
roded cables, in addition to replacing any failed components.
d. Check the engine for seizure. If the engine has not been started for a long period of
time, internal parts such as the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls. The engine
may have suffered internal damage, or could be hydro-locked from ingesting water.
Remove the spark plugs and carefully attempt to rotate the engine using a suitable
breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley. If the engine is resistant to moving, or
moves slightly and then binds, do not force the engine any further before determining
the problem.
3. Enpine stalls immediately when started
a. Check the ignition switch condition and operation. The electrical contacts in the run
position may be worn or damaged. Try restarting the engine with all electrical acces-
sories in the off position. Sometimes turning the key on an off will help in emergency
situations, however once the switch has shown signs of failure, it should be replaced
as soon as possible.
b. Check for loose, corroded, damaged or shorted wires for the ignition system and re-
pair or replace.
c. Check for manifold vacuum leaks or vacuum hose leakage and repair or replace parts
as necessary.
d. Measure the fuel pump delivery volume and pressure. Low fuel pump pressure can
also be noticed as a lack of power when accelerating. Make sure the fuel pump lines
are not restricted. The fuel pump output is not adjustable and requires fuel pump re-
placement to repair.
e. Check the engine fuel and ignition management system. Inspect the sensor wiring and
electrical connectors. A dirty, loose or damaged sensor or control module wire can
simulate a failed component.
f. Check the exhaust system for internal restrictions.
4. Starter motor spins, but does not engage
a. Check the starter motor for a seized or binding pinion gear.
b. Remove the flywheel inspection plate and check for a damaged ring gear.
5. Engine is difficult to start when Gold
a. Check the battery condition, battery state of charge and starter motor current draw. Re-
place the battery if marginal and the starter motor if the current draw is beyond specifi-
cation. b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean the battery terminals and replace corroded or
damaged cables.
c. Check the fuel system for proper operation. A fuel pump with insufficient fuel pressure
or clogged injectors should be replaced.
d. Check the engine’s tune-up status. Note the tune-up specifications and check for items
such as severely worn spark plugs; adjust or replace as needed. On vehicles with
manually adjusted valve clearances, check for tight valves and adjust to specification.
e. Check for a failed coolant temperature sensor, and replace if out of specification.
f. Check the operation of the engine management systems for fuel and ignition; repair or
replace failed components as necessary.
6. En#ine is ditticutt to start when hot
a. Check the air filter and air intake system. Replace the air filter if it is dirty or contami-
nated. Check the fresh air intake system for restrictions or blockage.
b. Check for loose or deteriorated engine grounds and clean, tighten or replace as
needed.
c. Check for needed maintenance. Inspect tune-up and service related items such as
spark plugs and engine oil condition, and check the operation of the engine fuel and
ignition management system.
Diesel Engines
1. Engine turns over but won’t start
a. Check engine starting procedure and restart engine.
b. Check the glow plug operation and repair or replace as necessary.
c. Check for air in the fuel system or fuel filter and bleed the air as necessary.
d. Check the fuel delivery system and repair or replace as necessary.
e. Check fuel level and add fuel as needed.
f. Check fuel quality. If the fuel is contaminated, drain and flush the fuel tank.
g. Check engine compression. If compression is below specification, the engine may
need to be renewed or replaced.
h. Check the injection pump timing and set to specification.
i. Check the injection pump condition and replace as necessary.
j. Check the fuel nozzle operation and condition or replace as necessary.
2. Engine does
hot turn over when attempting to start
a. Check the battery state of charge and condition. If the dash lights are not visible or
very dim when turning the ignition key on, the battery has either failed internally or
discharged, the battery cables are loose, excessively corroded or damaged, or the al-
ternator has failed or internally shorted, discharging the battery. Charge or replace the
battery, clean or replace the battery cables, and check the alternator output.
b. Check the operation of the neutral safety switch. On automatic transmission vehicles,
try starting the vehicle in both Park and Neutral. On manual transmission vehicles, de-
press the clutch pedal and attempt to start. On some vehicles, these switches can be
adjusted. Make sure the switches or wire connectors are not loose or damaged. Re-
place or adjust the switches as necessary.
c. Check the starter motor, starter solenoid or relay, and starter motor cables and wires.
Check the ground from the engine to the chassis. Make sure the wires are not loose,
damaged, or corroded. If battery voltage is present at the starter relay, try using a re-
mote starter to start the vehicle for test purposes only. Replace any damaged or cor-
roded cables, in addition to replacing any failed components.
d. Check the engine for seizure. If the engine has not been started for a long period of
time, internal parts such as the rings may have rusted to the cylinder walls. The engine
may have suffered internal damage, or could be hydro-locked from ingesting water.
Remove the injectors and carefully attempt to rotate the engine using a suitable
breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pulley. If the engine is resistant to moving, or
moves slightly and then binds, do not force the engine any further before determining
the cause of the problem.
3. Engine stalls afier starting
a. Check for a restriction in the fuel return line or the return line check valve and repair as
necessary.
b. Check the glow plug operation for turning the glow plugs off too soon and repair as
necessary.
c. Check for incorrect injection pump timing and reset to specification.
d. Test the engine fuel pump and replace if the output is below specification.
e. Check for contaminated or incorrect fuel. Completely flush the fuel system and replace
with fresh fuel.
f. Test the engine’s compression for low compression. If below specification, mechanical
repairs are necessary to repair.
g. Check for air in the fuel. Check fuel tank fuel and fill as needed.
h. Check for a failed injection pump. Replace the pump, making sure to properly set the
pump timing.

TROUBLESHOOTING 11-9
c. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for blown fuses or defective fan motors, temperature sensors and relays, and
replace failed components.
d. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
e. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
f. Check for a damaged water pump. If coolant circulation is poor, check for a loose wa-
ter pump impeller. If the impeller is loose, replace the water pump.
2. Engine loses coolant
a. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.
b. Check for a coolant leak caused by a failed head gasket, or a porous water jacket cast-
ing in the cylinder head or engine block. Replace defective parts as necessary.
3. Engine temperature remains co/d when driving
a. Check the thermostat operation. Replace the thermostat if it sticks in the open posi-
tion.
b. On vehicles with electrically controlled cooling fans, check the cooling fan operation.
Check for defective temperature sensors and stuck relays, and replace failed compo-
nents.
c. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
4. Engine runs hot
a. Check for an internally restricted radiator. Flush the radiator or replace if the blockage
is too severe for flushing.
b. Check for a loose or slipping water pump drive belt. Inspect the drive belt condition.
Replace the belt if brittle, cracked or damaged. Check the pulley condition and prop-
erly tension the belt.
c. Check the cooling fan operation. Replace defective fan motors, sensors or relays as
necessary.
d. Check temperature gauge operation if equipped to verify proper operation of the
gauge. Check the sensors and wiring for defects, and repair or replace defective com-
ponents.
e. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot, check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture. Once the engine is cool, recheck the fluid level and
top off as needed.
NOTE: The engine cooling system can also be affected by an engine’s me-
chanical condition. A failed head gasket or a porous casting in the engine
block or cylinder head could cause a loss of coolant and result in engine
overheating.
Some cooling systems rely on electrically driven cooling fans to cool the radiator and
use electrical temperature sensors and relays to operate the cooling fan. When diagnos-
ing these systems, check for blown fuses, damaged wires and verify that the electrical
connections are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If necessary, clean
the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of cleaning igents not specifically designed for electrical contacts could leave a film or damage the insulation of
the wiring.
1. Exhaust rattles at idle speed
a. Check the engine and transmission mounts and replace mounts showing signs of
damage or wear.
b. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
d. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
2. Exhaust system vibrates when driving
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust system clearance, routing and alignment. If the exhaust is making
contact with the vehicle in any manner, check for bent or damaged components and
replace, then loosen and reposition the exhaust system.
c. Check for internal damage to mufflers and catalytic converters. The broken pieces from
the defective component may travel in the direction of the exhaust flow and collect
and/or create a blockage in a component other than the one which failed, causing en-
gine running and stalling problems. Another symptom of a restricted exhaust is low
engine manifold vacuum. Remove the exhaust system and carefully remove any loose
or broken pieces, then replace any failed or damaged parts as necessary.
3. Exhaust system hangs too low
a. Check the exhaust hangers, brackets and mounts. Replace broken, missing or dam-
aged mounts.
b. Check the exhaust routing and alignment. Check and replace bent or damaged com-
ponents. If the exhaust is not routed properly, loosen and reposition the exhaust sys-
tern.
4. Exhaust sounds loud
a. Check the system for looseness and leaks. Check the exhaust pipes, clamps, flange
bolts and manifold fasteners for tightness. Check and replace any failed gaskets.
b. Check and replace exhaust silencers that have a loss of efficiency due to internally
broken baffles or worn packing material.
c. Check for missing mufflers and silencers that have been replaced with straight pipes
or with non-original equipment silencers.
NOTE: Exhaust system rattles, vibration and proper alignment should not
be overlooked. Excessive vibration caused by collapsed engine mounts,
damaged or missing exhaust hangers and misalignment may cause surface
cracks and broken welds, creating exhaust leaks or internal damage to ex-
haust components such as the catalytic converter, creating a restriction to
exhaust flow and loss of power.
1. Transmission shit& erratically
a. Check and if not within the recommended range, add or remove transmission fluid to
obtain the correct fluid level. Always use the recommended fluid type when adding
transmission fluid.
b. Check the fluid level condition. If the fluid has become contaminated, fatigued from
excessive heat or exhibits a burning odor, change the transmission fluid and filter us-
ing the recommended type and amount of fluid. A fluid which exhibits a burning odor
indicates that the transmission has been slipping internally and may require future re-
pairs.
c. Check for an improperly installed transmission filter, or missing filter gasket, and re-
pair as necessary.
d. Check for loose or leaking gaskets, pressure lines and fittings, and repair or replace as
necessary.
e. Check for loose or disconnected shift and throttle linkages or vacuum hoses, and re-
pair as necessary. ,
2. Transmission will not engage
a. Check the shift linkage for looseness, wear and proper adjustment, and repair as nec-
essary. b. Check for a loss of transmission fluid and top off as needed with the recommended
fluid.
c. If the transmission does not engage with the shift linkage correctly installed and the
proper fluid level, internal damage has likely occurred, requiring transmission removal
and disassembly.
3. Transmission will not downshift during heavy acceleration
a. On computer controlled transmissions, check for failed sensors or control units and
repair or replace defective components.
b. On vehicles with kickdown linkages or vacuum servos, check for proper linkage ad-
justment or leaking vacuum hoses or servo units.
NOTE: Mlany automatic transmissions use an electronic control module,
electrical sensors and solenoids to control transmission shifting. When
troubleshooting a vehicle with this type of system, be sure the electrical
connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If nec-
essary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The
use of cleaning agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts
could leave a film or damage the insulation of the wiring.

II-14 TROUBLESHOOTING
b. Check for low voltage at the bulb socket positive terminal or a poor ground. If voltage
is low, or the ground marginal, trace the wiring to, and check for loose, damaged or
corroded wires and electrical terminals; repair as necessary.
c. Check the light switch operation and replace if necessary.
1. Interior light inoperative
a. Verify the interior light switch location and position(s), and set the switch in the cor-
rect position.
b. Check for battery voltage and ground at the interior light bulb socket. If battery voltage
and ground are present, replace the bulb. If voltage is not present, check the interior
light fuse for battery voltage. If the fuse is missing, replace the fuse. If the fuse has
blown, or if battery voltage is present, refer to the wiring diagram to troubleshoot the
cause for an open or shorted circuit. If ground is not present, check the door switch
contacts and clean or repair as necessary.
2. Interior light works intermittent/y
a. Check the bulb for a damaged filament, and replace if damaged.
b. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion, and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.
c. Check for loose, damaged or corroded wires and electrical terminals; repair as neces-
sary.
d. Check the door and light switch operation, and replace if necessary.
3. Interior light very dim
a. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion, and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.
b. Check for low voltage at the bulb socket positive terminal or a poor ground. If voltage
is low, or the ground marginal, trace the wiring to, and check for loose, damaged or
corroded wires and electrical terminals; repair as necessary.
c. Check the door and light switch operation, and replace if necessary.
1. One brake light inoperative
a. PressPress the brake pedal and check for battery voltage and ground at the brake light
bulb socket. If present, replace the bulb. If either battery voltage or ground is not pre-
sent, refer to the wiring diagram to troubleshoot.
2. Both brake lights inoperative
a. Press the brake pedal and check for battery voltage and grou’nd at the brake light bulb
socket. If present, replace both bulbs. If battery voltage is not present, check the brake
light switch adjustment and adjust as necessary. If the brake light switch is properly
adjusted, and battery voltage or the ground is not present at the bulb sockets, or at the
bulb electrical connector with the brake pedal pressed, refer to the wiring diagram to
troubleshoot the cause of an open circuit.
3. One or both brake lights very dim
a. Press the brake pedal and measure the voltage at the brake light bulb socket. If the
measured voltage is close to the battery voltage, check for a poor ground caused by a
loose, damaged, or corroded wire, terminal, bulb or bulb socket. If the ground is
bolted to a painted surface, it may be necessary to remove the electrical connector and
clean the mounting surface, so the connector mounts on bare metal. If battery voltage
is low, check for a poor connection caused by either a faulty brake light switch, a
loose, damaged, or corroded wire, terminal or electrical connector. Refer to the wiring
diagram to troubleshoot the cause of a voltage drop.
1. Warning light(s) stay on when the engine is started
Ignition, Battery or Alternator Warning light a. Check the alternator output and voltage regulator operation, and replace as necessary.
b. Check the warning light wiring for a shorted wire.
Check Engine Light a. Check the engine for routine maintenance and tune-up status. Note the engine tune-up
specifications and verify the spark plug, air filter and engine oil condition; replace
and/or adjust items as necessary.
b. Check the fuel tank for low fuel level, causing an intermittent lean fuel mixtur
e. Top off fuel tank and reset check engine light.
c. Check for a failed or disconnected engine fuel or ignition component, sensor or con-
trol unit and repair or replace as necessary.
d. Check the intake manifold and vacuum hoses for air leaks and repair as
necessary.
e. Check the engine’s mechanical condition for excessive oil consumption.
Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Light a. Check the wheel sensors and sensor rings for debris, and clean as necessary.
b. Check the brake master cylinder for fluid leakage or seal failure and replace as neces-
sary.
c, Check the ABS control unit, pump and proportioning valves for proper operation; re-
place as necessary.
d. Check the sensor wiring at the wheel sensors and the ABS control unit for a loose or
shorted wire, and repair as necessary.
brake Warning Light a. Check the brake fluid level and check for possible leakage from the hydraulic lines and
seals. Top off brake fluid and repair leakage as necessary.
b. Check the brake linings for wear and replace as necessary.
c. Check for a loose or shot-ted brake warning light sensor or wire, and replace or repair
as necessary.
Oil Pressure Warning Light a. Stop the engine immediately. Check the engine oil level and oil filter condition, and
top off or change the oil as necessary.
b. Check the oil pressure sensor wire for being shorted to ground. Disconnect the wire
from the oil pressure sensor and with the ignition in the ON position, but not running,
the oil pressure light should not be working. If the light works with the wire discon-
nected, check the sensor wire for being shorted to ground. Check the wire routing to
make sure the wire is not pinched and check for insulation damage. Repair or replace
the wire as necessary and recheck before starting the engine.
c. Remove the oil pan and check for a clogged oil pick-up tube screen.
d. Check the oil pressure sensor operation by substituting a known good sensor.
e. Check the oil filter for internal restrictions or leaks, and replace as necessary.
WARNING: If the engine is operated with oil pressure below the manufac-
turer’s specification, severe (and costly) engine damage could occur. Low
oil pressure can be caused by excessive internal wear or damage to the en-
gine bearings, oil pressure relief valve, oil pump or oil pump drive mecha-
nism.
Before starting the engine, check for possible causes of rapid oil loss, such as leaking
oil lines or a loose, damaged, restricted, or leaking oil filter or oil pressure sensor. If the
engine oil level and condition are acceptable, measure the engine’s oil pressure using a
pressure gauge, or determine the cause for the oil pressure warning light to function
when the engine is running, before operating the engine for an extended period of time.
Another symptom of operating an engine with low oil pressure is the presence of severe
knocking and tapping noises.
Parking Brake Warning Light a. Check the brake release mechanism and verify the parking brake has been fully re-
leased.
b. CheckCheck the parking brake light switch for looseness or misalignment.
c. CheckCheck for a damaged switch or a loose or shorted brake light switch wire, and
replace or repair as necessary.
2. Warning light(s) flickers on and off when driving
Ignition, Battery or Alternator Warning Light a. Check the alternator output and voltage regulator operation. An intermittent condition
may indicate worn brushes, an internal short, or a defective voltage regulator. Replace
the alternator or failed component.
b. Check the warning light wiring for a shorted, pinched or damaged wire and repair as
necessary.
Check Engine Light a. Check the engine for required maintenance and tune-up status. Verify engine tune-up
specifications, as well as spark plug, air filter and engine oil condition; replace and/or
adjust items as necessary.
b. Check the fuel tank for low fuel level causing an intermittent lean fuel mixture. Top off
fuel tank and reset check engine light.
c. Check for an intermittent failure or partially disconnected engine fuel and ignition
component, sensor or control unit; repair or replace as necessary.
d. Check the intake manifold and vacuum hoses for air leaks, and repair as necessary.
e. Check the warning light wiring for a shorted, pinched or damaged wire and repair as
necessary.
Anti-Lock Braking System (ABS) Light a. Check the wheel sensors and sensor rings for debris, and clean as necessary.
b. Check the brake master cylinder for fluid leakage or seal failure and replace as neces-
sary.
c. Check the ABS control unit, pump and proportioning valves for proper operation, and
replace as necessary.

TROUBLESHOOTING 1145
d. Check the sensor wiring at the wheel sensors and the ABS control unit for a loose or
shorted wire and repair as necessary.
Brake Warninu Liaht a. Check the brakefluid~evel and check for possible leakage from the hydraulic lines and
seals. Top off brake fluid and repair leakage as necessary.
b. Check the brake linings for wear and replace as necessary.
c. Check for a loose or shorted brake warning light sensor or wire, and replace or repair
as necessary.
Oil Pressure Warning Light a. Stop the engine immediately. Check the engine oil level and check for a sudden and
rapid oil loss, such as a leaking oil line or oil pressure sensor, and repair or replace as
necessary.
b. Check the oil pressure sensor operation by substituting a known good sensor.
c. Check the oil pressure sensor wire for being shorted to ground. Disconnect the wire
from the oil pressure sensor and with the ignition in the ON position, but not running,
the oil pressure light should not be working. If the light works with the wire discon-
nected, check the sensor wire for being shorted to ground. Check the wire routing to
make sure the wire is not pinched and check for insulation damage. Repair or replace
the wire as necessary and recheck before starting the engine.
d. Remove the oil pan and check for a clogged oil pick-up tube screen.
Parking Brake Warning Light a. Check the brake release mechanism and verify the parking brake has been fully re-
leased.
b. Check the parking brake light switch for looseness or misalignment.
c. Check for a damaged switch or a loose or shorted brake light switch wire, and replace
or repair as necessary.
3. Warning li#ht(s) inoperative with iflnition on,
and engine not started
a. Check for a defective bulb by installing a known good bulb.
b. Check for a defective wire using the appropriate wiring diagram(s).
c. Check for a defective sending unit by removing and then grounding the wire at the
sending unit. If the light comes on with the ignition on when grounding the wire, re-
place the sending unit.
1. Turn siflnais or hazard iiflhts come on, but do not flash
a. Check for a defective flasher unit and replace as necessary.
2. Turn signals or hazard iiflhts do not function on either side
a. Check the fuse and replace, if defective.
b. Check the flasher unit by substituting a known good flasher unit.
c. Check the turn signal electrical system for a defective component, open circuit, short
circuit or poor ground.
3. Turn siflnais or hazard lights only work on one side
a. Check for failed bulbs and replace as necessary.
b. Check for poor grounds in both housings and repair as necessary.
4. One siflnai light does not work
a. Check for a failed bulb and replace as necessary.
b. Check for corrosion in the bulb socket, and clean and repair as necessary.
c. Check for a poor ground at the bulb socket, and clean and repair as necessary.
5. Turn signals flash too slowly
a. Check signal bulb(s) wattage and replace with lower wattage bulb(s). 6. Turn signals flash too fast
a, Check signal bulb(s) wattage and replace with higher wattage bulb(s).
b. Check for installation of the correct flasher unit and replace if incorrect.
7. Four-way hazard flasher indicator iiflhi inoperative
a. Verify that the exterior lights are functioning and, if so, replace indicator bulb.
b. Check the operation of the warning flasher switch and replace if defective.
0. Turn signal indicator ii#ht(s) do not work in either direction
a. Verify that the exterior lights are functioning and, if so, replace indicator bulb(s).
b. Check for a defective flasher unit by substituting a known good unit.
9. One turn signal indicator liflht does not work
a. Check for a defective bulb and replace as necessary.
b. Check for a defective flasher unit by substituting a known good unit.
1. Horn does not operate
a. Check for a defective fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Check for battery voltage and ground at horn electrical connections when pressing the
horn switch. If voltage is present, replace the horn assembly. If voltage or ground is
not present, refer to Chassis Electrical coverage for additional troubleshooting tech-
niques and circuit information.
2. Horn has an unusual tone
a. On single horn systems, replace the horn.
b. On dual horn systems, check the operation of the second horn. Dual horn systems
have a high and low pitched horn. Unplug one horn at a time and recheck operation.
Replace the horn which does not function.
c. Check for debris or condensation build-up in horn and verify the horn positioning. If
the horn has a single opening, adjust the opening downward to allow for adequate
drainage and to prevent debris build-up.
1. Windshield wipers do not operate
a. Check fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Check switch operation and repair or replace as necessary.
c. Check for corroded, loose, disconnected or broken wires and clean or repair as neces-
sary.
d. Check the ground circuit for the wiper switch or motor and repair as necessary.
2. Windshield wiper motor makes a humming noise, gets hot or blows
fuses
a. Wiper motor damaged internally; replace the wiper motor.
b. Wiper linkage bent, damaged or seized. Repair or replace wiper linkage as necessary.
3. Windshield wiper motor operates, but one or both wipers fail to move
a. Windshield wiper motor linkage loose or disconnected. Repair or replace linkage as
necessary.
b. Windshield wiper arms loose on wiper pivots. Secure wiper arm to pivot or replace
both the wiper arm and pivot assembly.
4. Windshield wipers will not park
a. Check the wiper switch operation and verify that the switch properly interrupts the
power supplied to the wiper motor.
b. If the wiper switch is functioning properly, the wiper motor parking circuit has failed.
Replace the wiper motor assembly. Operate the wiper motor at least one time before
installing the arms and blades to ensure correct positioning, then recheck using the
highest wiper speed on a wet windshield to make sure the arms and blades do not
contact the windshield trim.
1. Speedometer does not work to minimize sharp bends or kinks.
If the sheathing has been
damaged, replace the ca-
a. Check and verify that the speedometer cable is properly seated into the speedometer ble assembly.
assembly and the speedometer drive gear. b. Check the speedometer cable for adequate lubrication. Remove the cable, inspect for
b. Check the speedometer cable for breakage or rounded-off cable ends where the cable damage, clean, lubricate and reinstall. If the cable has been damaged, replace the ca-
seats into the speedometer drive gear and into the speedometer assembly. If damaged, ble.
broken or the cable ends are rounded off, replace the cable.
c. Check speedometer drive gear condition and replace as necessary. 3. Speedometer works intermittently
d. Install a known good speedometer to test for proper operation. If the substituted a. Check the cable and verify that the cable is fully installed and the fasteners are secure.
speedometer functions properly, replace the speedometer assembly. b. Check the cable ends for wear and rounding, and replace as necessary.

II-16 TROUBLESHOOTING
c. Gauge sending unit defective. Replace gauge sending unit.
d. Gauge or sending unit improperly installed. Verify installation and wiring, and repair
1. Speedometer does not work
a. Check the speed sensor pickup and replace as necessary.
b. Check the wiring between the speed sensor and the speedometer for corroded termi-
nals, loose connections or broken wires and clean or repair as necessary.
c. Install a known good speedometer to test for proper operation. If the substituted
speedometer functions properly, replace the speedometer assembly.
2. Speedometer works intermittently
a. Check the wiring between the speed sensor and the speedometer for corroded termi-
nals, loose connections or broken wires and clean or repair as necessary.
b. Check the speed sensor pickup and replace as necessary. as necessary.
2. Gauge operates enatica//y
a. Checkfor ioose, shorted, damaged or corroded electrical connections or wiring and
repair as necessary.
b. Check gauge sending units and replace as necessary.
3. Gauge operates fully pegged
a. Sending unit-to-gauge wire shorted to ground.
b. Sending unit defective; replace sending unit.
c. Gauge or sending unit not properly grounded.
d. Gauge or sending unit improperly installed. Verify installation and wiring, and repair
as necessary.
I. Gauge does not register
a. Check for a missing or blown fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Check for an open circuit in the gauge wiring. Repair wiring as necessary.
I. No air coming from air conditioner vents
a. Check the air conditioner fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Air conditioner system discharged. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak
tested by an MVAC certified technician, utilizing approved recovery/recycling equip-
ment. Repair as necessary.
c. Air conditioner low pressure switch defective. Replace switch.
d. Air conditioner fan resistor pack defective. Replace resistor pack.
e. Loose connection, broken wiring or defective air conditioner relay in air conditioning*
electrical circuit. Repair wiring or replace relay as necessary.
2. Air conditioner blows warm air
a. Air conditioner system is discharged. Have the system evacuated, charged and leak
tested by an MVAC certified technician, utilizing approved recovery/recycling equip-
ment. Repair as necessary.
b. Air conditioner compressor clutch not engaging. Check compressor clutch wiring,
electrical connections and compressor clutch, and repair or replace as necessary.
3. Water collects on the interior floor when the air conditioner is used
a. Air conditioner evaporator drain hose is blocked. Clear the drain hose where it exits
the passenger compartment.
b. Air conditioner evaporator drain hose is disconnected. Secure the drain hose to the
evaporator drainage tray under the dashboard.
4. Air conditioner has a moldy odor when used
a. The air conditioner evaporator drain hose is blocked or partially restricted, allowing
condensation to build up around the evaporator and drainage tray. Clear the drain
hose where it exits the passenger compartment.
,
1. Blower motor does not operate
a. Check blower motor fuse and replace as necessary.
b. Check blower motor wiring for loose, damaged or corroded contacts and repair as
necessary.
c. Check blower motor switch and resistor pack for open circuits, and repair or replace
as necessary.
d. Check blower motor for internal damage and repair or replace as necessary.
2. Heater blows cool air
a. Check the engine coolant level. If the coolant level is low, top off and bleed the air
from the cooling system as necessary and check for coolant leaks.
b. Check engine coolant operating temperature. If coolant temperature is below specifica-
tion, check for a damaged or stuck thermostat.
c. Check the heater control valve operation. Check the heater control valve cable or vac-
uum hose for proper installation. Move the heater temperature control from hot to cold
several times and verify the operation of the heater control valve. With the engine at
normal operating temperature and the heater temperature control in the full hot posi-
tion, carefully feel the heater hose going into and exiting the control valve. If one
heater hose is hot and the other is much cooler, replace the control valve.
3. Heater steams the windshield when used
a. Check for a loose cooling system hose clamp or leaking coolant hose near the engine
firewall or under the dash area, and repair as necessary.
b. Check for the existence of a sweet odor and fluid dripping from the heater floor vents,
indicating a failed or damaged heater core. Pressure test the cooling system with the
heater set to the fully warm position and check for fluid leakage from the floor vents. If
leakage is verified, remove and replace the heater core assembly.
NOTE: On some vehicles, the dashboard must be disassembled and re-
moved to access the heater core.

11-18 GLOSSARY
COMBINATION MANIFOLD: An assembly which includes both the intake
and exhaust manifolds in one casting.
COMBINATION VALVE: A device used in some fuel systems that routes fuel
vapors to a charcoal storage canister instead of venting them into the atmos-
phere. The valve relieves fuel tank pressure
and allows fresh air into the tank
as the fuel level drops to prevent a vapor lock situation.
COMPRESSION RATIO: The ratio of the volume between the piston and
cylinder head when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke (bottom dead cen-
ter) and when the piston is at the top of its stroke (top dead center).
CONDENSER: 1. An electrical device which acts to store an electrical charge,
preventing voltage surges. 2. A radiator-like device in the air conditioning sys-
tem in which refrigerant gas condenses into a liquid, giving off heat.
CONDUCTOR: Any material through which an electrical current can be trans-
mitted easily.
CONTINUITY: Continuous or complete circuit. Can be checked with an ohm-
meter.
COUNTERSHAFT: An intermediate shaft which is rotated by a mainshaft and
transmits, in turn, that rotation to a working part.
CRANKCASE: The lower part of an engine in which the crankshaft and re-
lated parts operate.
CRANKSHAFT: Engine component (connected to pistons by connecting rods)
which converts the reciprocating (up and down) motion of pistons to rotary
motion used to turn the driveshaft.
CYLINDER: In an engine, the round hole in the engine block in which the
piston(s) ride.
CYLINDER BLOCK: The main structural member of an engine in which is
found the cylinders, crankshaft and other principle parts.
DEAD CENTER: The extreme top or bottom of the piston stroke.
DETONATION: An unwanted explosion of the air/fuel mixture in the com-
bustion chamber caused by excess heat and compression, advanced timing,
or an overly lean mixture. Also referred to as “ping”.
DIAPHRAGM: A thin, flexible wall separating two cavities, such as in a vac-
uum advance unit.
c
DIESELING: The engine continues to run after the car is shut off; caused by
fuel continuing to be burned in the combustion chamber.
DIFFERENTIAL: A geared assembly which allows the transmission of mo-
tion between drive axles, giving one axle the ability to rotate faster than the
other, as in cornering.
DIODE: An electrical device that will allow current to flow in one direction
only.
DISC BRAKE: A hydraulic braking assembly consisting of a brake disc, or
rotor, mounted on an axleshaft, anda caliper assembly containing, usually two GEAR RATIO: A ratio expressing the number of turns a smaller gear will
make to turn a larger gear through one revolution. The ratio is found by di-
brake pads which are activated by hydraulic pressure. The pads are forced viding the number of teeth on the smaller gear into the number of teeth on the
against the sides of the disc, creating friction which slows the vehicle. larger gear. DISTRIBUTOR: A mechanically driven device on an engine which is re-
sponsible for electrically firing the spark plug at a pre-determined point of the
piston stroke.
DOWEL PIN: A pin, inserted in mating holes in two different parts allowing
those parts to maintain a fixed relationship. .
DRUM BRAKE: A braking system which consists of two brake shoes and one
or two wheel cylinders, mounted on a fixed backing plate, and a brake drum,
mounted on an axle, which revolves around the assembly.
ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU): A diqital computer that controls en-
gine (and sometimes transmission‘, brake or other vehicle system) functions
based on data received from various sensors. Examples used by some man-
ufacturers include Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM), Engine Control
Module (ECM), Powertrain Control Module (PCM) or Vehicle Control Mod-
ule (VCM).
ELECTRONIC IGNITION: A system in which the timing and‘firing of the
spark plugs is controlled by an electronic control unit, usually called a mod-
ule. These systems have no points or condenser,
END-PLAY: The clearance/gap between two components that allows for ex-
pansion of the parts as they warm up, to prevent binding and to allow space
for lubrication.
ENGINE: The primary motor or power apparatus of a vehicle, which converts
liquid or gas fuel into mechanical energy.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD: A set of cast passages or pipes which conduct ex-
haust gases from the engine.
FEELER GAUGE: A blade, usually metal, of precisely predetermined thick-
ness, used to measure the clearance between two parts.
FIRING ORDER: The order in which combustion occurs in the cylinders
of an engine. Also the order in which spark is distributed to the plugs by the
distributor.
FLOODING: The presence of too much fuel in the intake manifold and com-
bustion chamber which prevents the air/fuel mixture from firing, thereby caus-
ing a no-start situation.
FLYWHEEL: A heavy disc of metal attached to the rear of the crankshaft. It
smoothes the firing impulses of the engine and keeps the crankshaft turning
during periods when no firing takes place. The starter also engages the fly-
wheel to start the engine.
FOOT POUND (ft. Ibs. or sometimes, ft. lb.): The amount of energy or
work needed to raise an item weighing one pound, a distance of one foot.
FUSE: A protective device in a circuit which prevents circuit overload by break-
ing the circuit when a specific amperage is present. The device is constructed
around a strip or wire of a lower amperage rating than the circuit it is designed
to protect. When an amperage higher than that stamped on the fuse is present
in the circuit, the strip or wire melts, opening the circuit.

MASTER INDEX 11-23
GENERALINFORMAITON 3-65
INSPECTION 3-65
REFINISHING 3-67
ENGINE FAN 3-19
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-19
ENGINE MECHANICAL 3-1
ENGINE OVERHAUL TIPS 3-58
CLEANING 3-58
OVERHAUL TIPS 3-58
REPAIRING DAMAGEDTHREADS 3-59
TOOLS 3-58
ENGINE PREPARATION 3-59
ASSEMBLY 3-64
DISASSEMBLY 3-60
INSPECTION 3-
REFINISHING & REPAIRING 3-63
ENGINE RECONDITIONING 3-57
ENGINE START-UP AND BREAK-IN
3-69
BREAKING IT IN 3-69
KEEP IT MAINTAINED 3-69
STARTING THE ENGINE 3-69
ENGINE 'l-33
OIL& FILTER CHANGE 1-34
OILLEVELCHECK 1-33
ENGINE 3-1
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 3-l
ENGlNECONTROLUNIT/POWERTRAINCONTROLMODULE(ECU/PCM)
4-7
OPERATION 4-7
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-7
ENGINECOOLANTTEMPERATURESENSOR
4-10
OPERATION 4-10
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-10
TESTING 4-10
ENGINECOOLANTTEMPERATURESENDING
UNIT 2-11
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-11
TESTING 2-11
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER l-10
ENTERTAINMENT SYSTEMS 6-14
EVAPORATIVECANISTER I-16
SERVICING 1-16
' EVAPORATIVEEMISSIONCONTROLS 4-2
COMPONENTTESTING 4-3
OPERATION 4-2
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-4
EXHAUST MANIFOLD 3-14
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-14
EXHAUST SYSTEM 3-55
EXHAUSTGASRECIRCULATION SYSTEM
4-5
COMPONENTTESTING 4-5
OPERATION 4-5
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-6
EXTERIOR 1 O-2
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 1-6
. FENDERS 10-4
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-4
FIRING ORDERS 2-7
FLASHERS 6-28
REPLACEMENT 6-28
FLOOR CONSOLE IO-6
REMOVAL& INSTALLATION IO-6 1
FLUID PAN 7-10
FLUID DISPOSAL 1-33
FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 1-33
FLYWHEEVDRIVEPLATE 3-55
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-55
FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL 3-48
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-48
FRONT SUSPENSION 8-4 FRONTWHEELDRIVEMODELS 1-44
FUELANDENGINEOILRECOMMENDATIONS 1-33
ENGINEOIL l-33
FUEL 1-33
OPERATION IN FOREIGN COUNTRIES
1-33
FUEL LINE FITTINGS 5-2
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 5-2
FUEL RAIL AND INJECTORS(S)
5-4
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 5-4
TESTING 5-8
FUELSYSTEM SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 5-3
FUELFILTER 1-15
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-15
FUEL LINES AND FITTINGS 5-2
FUELPRESSUREREGULATOR 5-9
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 5-9
FUEL TANK 5-10
FUSES 6-27
REPLACEMENT 6-27
FUSIBLE LINKS 6-27 #
RESETTING AND/OR REPLACEMENT 6-28
GAUGES 6-18
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 6-18
GENERAL INFORMATION 5-3
GENERAL INFORMATION 6-7
DISARMING 6-7
REARMING 6-7
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 6-7
GENERAL INFORMATION 9-24
PRECAUTIONS 9-24
GENERALINFORMATION 2-10
GENERALINFORMATION 2-2
CYLINDER DROPTEST 2-2
SECONDARYSPARKTEST 2-2
GENERALINFORMATION 2-5
GENERALINFORMATION 2-8
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 2-9'
TESTING 2-8
GENERALINFORMATION 4-26
CHECKENGlNE/MALFUNCTlONlNDlCATOR LIGHT 4-26
SERVICE PRECAUTIONS 4-26
GENERALINFORMATION 4-27
G-SENSOR 9-29
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 9-29
HALFSHAFTS 7-13
HALFSHAFTS 7-3
CV-JOINTS OVERHAUL 7-5
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 7-3
HATCH/TAILGATE/TRUNKLID LOCKCYLINDER lo-10
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-IO
HATCH IO-3
ALIGNMENT IO-3
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-3
HEADLIGHT SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL 81 INSTALLATION 6-19
HEADLIGHTS 6-19
AIMING THE HEADLIGHTS 6-20
REMOVAL& INSTALLATION 6-19
HEATER CORE 6-9
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-9
HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING 6-7
HOOD IO-2
ALIGNMENT IO-3
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-2
HOSES I-20
INSPECTION I-20
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION I-21
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2
HUB & BEARINGS 8-25