STARTING AND OPERATING 331
the brakes are required to control vehicle speed, apply
them lightly and avoid locking or skidding the tires.
Driving Through Water
Extreme care should be taken crossing any type of water.
Water crossings should be avoided if possible and only be
attempted when necessary, in a safe responsible manner.
You should only drive through areas which are designated
and approved. You should tread lightly and avoid damage
to the environment. You should know your vehicle's abilities
and be able to recover it if something goes wrong. You
should never stop or shut a vehicle off when crossing deep
water unless you ingested water into the engine air intake. If
the engine stalls do not attempt to restart it. Determine if it
has ingested water first. The key to any crossing is low andslow. You want to use first gear in 4L (Low Range) and
proceed very slowly with a constant slow speed (3-5 mph
[5–8 km/h] maximum) and light throttle. Keep the vehicle
moving; do not try to accelerate through the crossing. After
crossing any water higher than the bottom of the axle differ
-
entials, you should inspect all of the vehicle fluids for signs
of water ingestion.
• Before You Cross Any Type Of Water – As you approach
any type of water you need to determine if you can cross it
safely and responsibly. If necessary, get out and walk
through the water or probe it with a stick. You need to be
sure of its depth, approach angle, current and bottom
condition. Be careful of murky or muddy waters, check for
hidden obstacles. Make sure you will not be intruding on
any wildlife and you can recover the vehicle if necessary.
The key to a safe crossing is the water depth, current and
bottom conditions. On soft bottoms the vehicle will sink in,
WARNING!
If the engine stalls or you lose headway or cannot make
it to the top of a steep hill or grade, never attempt to turn
around. To do so may result in tipping and rolling the
vehicle, which may result in severe injury. Always back
carefully straight down a hill in REVERSE. Never back
down a hill in NEUTRAL using only the vehicle brakes.
Never drive diagonally across a hill, always drive
straight up or down.
CAUTION!
Water ingestion into the axles, transmission, transfer
case, engine or vehicle interior can occur if you drive too
fast or through too deep of water. Water can cause
permanent damage to engine, driveline or other vehicle
components and your brakes will be less effective once
wet and/or muddy.
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332 STARTING AND OPERATING
effectively increasing the water level on the vehicle. Be
sure to consider this when determining the depth and the
ability to safely cross.
• Crossing Puddles, Pools, Flooded Areas Or Other Standing
Water – Puddles, pools, flooded or other standing water areas
normally contain murky or muddy waters. These water types
normally contain hidden obstacles and make it difficult to
determine an accurate water depth, approach angle, and
bottom condition. Murky or muddy water holes are where
you want to hook up tow straps prior to entering. This makes
for a faster, cleaner and easier vehicle recovery. If you are able
to determine you can safely cross, than proceed using the low
and slow method.
• Crossing Ditches, Streams, Shallow Rivers Or Other
Flowing Water – Flowing water can be extremely dangerous.
Never attempt to cross a fast running stream or river even in
shallow water. Fast moving water can easily push your
vehicle downstream sweeping it out of control. Even in very
shallow water, a high current can still wash the dirt out from
around your tires putting you and your vehicle in jeopardy.
There is still a high risk of personal injury and vehicle damage with slower water currents in depths greater than the
vehicle's running ground clearance. You should never
attempt to cross flowing water which is deeper than the
vehicle's running ground clearance. Even the slowest current
can push the heaviest vehicle downstream out of control if the
water is deep enough to push on the large surface area of the
vehicle's body. Before you proceed determine the speed of the
current, the water's depth, approach angle, bottom condition
and if there are any obstacles, then cross at an angle heading
slightly upstream using the low and slow technique.
Airing Down For Off-Road Driving
Running lower tire pressure off-road can improve your ride
comfort and vehicle traction. Reducing the tire air pressure
allows the tire to bulge slightly, improving its surface area
for better flotation and ability to mold or form to the ground
contour. Different terrain, tires, and vehicles require
different tire pressure. Hard surfaces like rock and heavier
vehicles require higher pressures than softer surfaces such as
CAUTION!
Muddy waters can reduce the cooling system
effectiveness by depositing debris onto the radiator.
WARNING!
Never drive through fast moving deep water. It can push
your vehicle downstream, sweeping it out of control.
This could put you and your passengers at risk of injury
or drowning.
STARTING AND OPERATING 333
sand and lighter vehicles. You will need to experiment to
determine what is right for your situation. It is easier and
faster to let air out than it is to replace it so, start high and
lower it as required. Remember you must return the tires to
normal air pressure before driving on road or at highway
conditions. Be sure you have a way to return the tires to their
normal on road air pressure.
Vehicle Recovery
If you drive off-road, you may encounter a situation where
you will need to recover your vehicle. Vehicle recovery
should always be given consideration before attempting a
questionable obstacle. You should never go off-road driving
without the ability to recover your vehicle from a situation.
Having another vehicle with you usually works best for most
situations. The first thing to do is assess the situation. Why
are you stuck? Are you hung up on something? Would it be
easier to go forward or to go backward? Can you still movethe vehicle? Is there an anchor point to winch to? Are you
alone or do you have another vehicle to help? Is there high
risk of vehicle damage during the recovery process?
Answering these questions will help you determine the best
method of recovery. If you can still move the vehicle slightly
and the only issue is slick ground, then rock cycling your
vehicle would be the first choice. If you have ample room, an
additional vehicle and there is low risk of vehicle impinge
-
ment on the surroundings, then using a tow strap to the
vehicle tow hooks would be fast and easy. If the vehicle is
severely hung up or in a situation where great care needs to
be taken during the recovery, then nothing can do the job
better than a winch. If you are severely hung up on some -
thing you should jack the vehicle up and stack something
under the wheels to allow the vehicle to roll off the object
without causing further damage. This should be tried before
attempting any recovery method.
CAUTION!
Reduced tire pressure increases the risk of tire damage
and may cause tire unseating with total loss of air
pressure. To reduce the risk of tire unseating, while at a
reduced tire pressure, drive at slower speeds and avoid
sharp turns or abrupt maneuvers.
CAUTION!
Pulling the vehicle off an obstacle, without first clearing
the object, may result in additional underbody damage.
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334 STARTING AND OPERATING
•Rock Cycling Your Vehicle – Rock cycling your vehicle is
one of the easiest, fastest and most commonly used
methods. This simply involves shifting your vehicle from
DRIVE to REVERSE, while applying throttle after each
shift. During this process, for additional traction, try
turning your steering wheel quickly left and right no more
than a ¼ turn. If you are stuck in mud, sand, or snow try
spinning your tires during this process to clean the debris
from the tread and improve the traction. You want to
create a rocking motion with the vehicle. This helps build
vehicle momentum, which hopefully gets you out.
Remember to ease off and on the accelerator before and
after the shift. If after a few rock cycles your vehicle is not
free, stop and try another method of recovery. Continuous
rock cycling will only cause unnecessary damage to your
vehicle and the environment.
• Using The Tow Hooks With A Tow Strap – Tow straps
are a quick and easy way to recover your vehicle from
minor situations if you have a secondary vehicle which is
not stuck. The tow hooks on your vehicle are designed to take the abusive force generated during vehicle recovery.
Do not use the bumper or any other vehicle component as
an attachment point. Using tow straps requires coordina
-
tion between the two drivers. Good communication and
line of sight are required for a safe recovery. First connect
the tow strap to the correct attachment points on both vehi -
cles. There should be a least 20 to 30 feet (6 to 9 meters)
between the vehicles to allow for a safe recovery. If neces -
sary join two tow straps together using a 1 ½ inch hard
wood dowel. This will keep the straps from becoming
knotted and is safer than using a clevis pin if the strap
breaks. Next have the tow vehicle backup, leaving two to
three feet worth of slack in the strap. Then the tow vehicle,
using light throttle, should accelerate tightening the strap
providing the pulling force needed to free the vehicle. The
vehicle being recovered should assist in the recovery, at
the time of the snap, by slowly spinning the tires in the
same direction as the pulling vehicle. After the vehicle
becomes free, the driver of the previously stuck vehicle
should signal they are free and should hit their brakes
stopping both vehicles. The driver of the pulling vehicle
should let off the throttle without using the brakes, once
signaled by the other driver. This sequence is important to
avoid having the recovered vehicle hit the pulling vehicle.
CAUTION!
Damage can occur when spinning your tires at an
excessive high speed. Do not spin your tires faster than
an indicated 30 mph (48 km/h).
STARTING AND OPERATING 335
•Winching (Refer To “Winch Operation” For Additional
Information) – Winching is most commonly used in the
following situations: there is no support vehicle available,
a high controlled force is required to recover the vehicle,
there is a high risk of environmental or vehicle damage, or
where nothing else seems to work. A winch can deliver a
high pulling force with a great deal of control. It allows
you to walk the vehicle out of the situation in a slow
controlled manner. This control works well for avoiding
further vehicle damage. Once you decide it is time to use
the winch look for a good anchor point. It needs to be
strong enough to hold more than the vehicle's weight and
provide a direction of pull as straight as possible. Use
block and tackle if necessary to improve the angle of pull
or increase the winch's pulling force. If the anchor point is a tree use a strap around its base and hook the cable to the
strap. If it is another vehicle, then place that vehicle in
PARK and block the front tires. If you cannot find an
anchor point within reach try using your spare tire by
burying it. Once you have determined an anchor point
hook up the cable, ensuring there are a least five wraps of
cable left on the drum, and place a floor mat or something
else over the strung out cable. Placing something over the
strung out cable helps keep the cable on the ground if it
breaks. Next, place the vehicle in first gear and apply a
very light throttle as you power the winch in. Be careful
not to allow slack in the cable as you recover the vehicle.
Do not try to guide the cable into the drum. If it starts to
bunch up on one end, let it. You can re-spool the cable
afterwards. Never use a winch cable as a tow strap and
always stand back while winching.
WARNING!
Never use tow straps with end hooks or link two straps
with a clevis pin. These heavy metal objects could
become projectiles if a strap breaks, which could cause
severe injury. Never leave more than 2 to 3 feet (.6 to
1 meter) of slack in the strap. More slack than this greatly
increases the risk of injury and vehicle damage. Always
keep everyone at least 30 feet (9 meters) away from a
strapping or winching situation.
WARNING!
Winch cables are under high tension when in use and
can become a projectile if they fail. Never stand over or
straddle the winch cable. Never jerk or overload the
winch cable. Never stand in front of the vehicle while
winching. Failure to follow these instructions can result
in serious or fatal injury.
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336 STARTING AND OPERATING
After Driving Off-Road
Off-road operation puts more stress on your vehicle than
does most on-road driving. After going off-road, it is always
a good idea to check for damage. That way you can get any
problems taken care of right away and have your vehicle
ready when you need it.
• Completely inspect the underbody of your vehicle. Checktires, body structure, steering, suspension, and exhaust
system for damage.
• Inspect the radiator for mud and debris and clean as required.
• Check threaded fasteners for looseness, particularly on the chassis, drivetrain components, steering, and suspension.
Retighten them, if required, and torque to the values spec -
ified in the Service Manual.
• Check for accumulations of plants or brush. These things could be a fire hazard. They might hide damage to fuel
lines, brake hoses, axle pinion seals, and propeller shafts. • After extended operation in mud, sand, water, or similar
dirty conditions, have the radiator, fan, brake rotors,
wheels, brake linings, and axle yokes inspected and
cleaned as soon as possible.
• If you experience unusual vibration after driving in mud, slush or similar conditions, check the wheels for impacted
material. Impacted material can cause a wheel imbalance
and freeing the wheels of it will correct the situation.
WARNING!
Abrasive material in any part of the brakes may cause
excessive wear or unpredictable braking. You might not
have full braking power when you need it to prevent a
collision. If you have been operating your vehicle in
dirty conditions, get your brakes checked and cleaned as
necessary.
STARTING AND OPERATING 403
Guidance, the Trailer Reverse Guidance soft button will be
displayed.ParkSense Camera View
NOTE:
• Front tires will be in image when the tires are turned.
• Due to wide angle cameras in mirror, the image will appear distorted.
• Top view will show which doors are open.
• Open front doors will remove outside image. Rear View
This is the Default view of the system in REVERSE
and is always paired with the Top view of the
vehicle with optional active guide lines for the
projected path when enabled.
Rear Cross Path View
Pressing the Rear Cross Path soft key will give the
driver a wider angle view of the rear camera system.
The Top view will be disabled when this is selected.
Front View The Front view will show you what is immediately
in front of the vehicle and is always paired with the
Top view of the vehicle.
Front Cross Path View Pressing the Front Cross Path soft key will give the
driver a wider angle view of the front camera
system. The Top view will be disabled when this
is selected.
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410 STARTING AND OPERATING
Loose Fuel Filler Cap Message
If the vehicle diagnostic system determines that the
fuel filler cap is loose, improperly installed, or
damaged, a loose gascap indicator will display in the
instrument cluster telltale display area. Refer to “Instrument
Cluster Display” in “Getting To Know Your Instrument
Panel” for further information. Tighten the fuel filler cap
properly and push the RIGHT button to turn off the message.
If the problem continues, the message will appear the next
time the vehicle is started.
VEHICLE LOADING
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)
The GVWR is the total permissible weight of your vehicle
including driver, passengers, vehicle, options and cargo. The
label also specifies maximum capacities of front and rear axle
systems (GAWR). Total load must be limited so GVWR and
front and rear GAWR are not exceeded.
Payload
The payload of a vehicle is defined as the allowable load
weight a truck can carry, including the weight of the driver,
all passengers, options and cargo.
Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)
The GAWR is the maximum permissible load on the front
and rear axles. The load must be distributed in the cargo area
so that the GAWR of each axle is not exceeded.
Each axle GAWR is determined by the components in the
system with the lowest load carrying capacity (axle, springs,
tires or wheels). Heavier axles or suspension components
sometimes specified by purchasers for increased durability
does not necessarily increase the vehicle's GVWR.
Tire Size
The tire size on the Vehicle Certification Label represents the
actual tire size on your vehicle. Replacement tires must be
equal to the load capacity of this tire size.
Rim Size
This is the rim size that is appropriate for the tire size listed.
Inflation Pressure
This is the cold tire inflation pressure for your vehicle for all
loading conditions up to full GAWR.