2014 YAMAHA WR 250F check oil

5-62
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
CHECKING THE OIL STRAINER
1. Inspect:
• Oil strainer
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE OIL DELIVERY
PIPE 2
1. Inspect:
• Oil delivery pipe 2 "1"
• O-ring "2"
Damage→Replace.
• Oil orifice "a"
Clogged→Blow.
INSTALLING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Install:
• Bearing
• Bearing stopper
• Bolt (bearing stopper)
• Screw (bearing stopper) • Screw [bearing stopper (crank-
shaft)] "1"
To left and right crankcase.
• Install the bearing by pressing its
outer race parallel.
• To prevent the screw [bearing stop-
per (crankshaft)] from becoming
loose, crush the screw head periph-
ery "a" into the concave "b" using a
punch etc. In so doing, take care
not to damage the screwdriver re-
ceiving hole in the screw head.
INSTALLING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Install:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankshaft installing tool
"2", "3", "4" and "5".
• Hold the connecting rod at top dead
center with one hand while turning
the nut of the installing tool with the
other. Operate the installing tool un-
til the crankshaft bottoms against
the bearing.
• Before installing the crankshaft,
clean the contacting surface of
crankcase.
Do not use a hammer to drive in
the crankshaft.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
2. Check:
• Shifter operation
• Transmission operation
Unsmooth operation→Repair.
3. Install:
• Oil strainer "1"
• Bolt (oil strainer) "2"
4. Apply:
• Sealant
On the right crankcase "1".
Clean the contacting surface of left
and right crankcase before applying
the sealant.
Bolt (bearing stopper):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Screw (bearing stopper):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Screw [bearing stopper
(crankshaft)]:
14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10
ft•lb)
Crankshaft installing pot
"2":
YU-90058/90890-01274
Crankshaft installing bolt
"3":
YU-90060/90890-01275
Adapter (M12) "4":
YU-90063/90890-01278
Spacer (crankshaft in-
staller) "5":
YM-91044/90890-04081
Bolt (oil strainer):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Yamaha bond No. 1215:
90890-85505
(Three bond No.1215®)

5-63
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
5. Install:
• Dowel pin "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Right crankcase
To left crankcase.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.
• Fit the right crankcase onto the left
crankcase. Tap lightly on the case
with soft hammer.
• When installing the crankcase, the
connecting rod should be posi-
tioned at TDC (top dead center).
6. Tighten:
• Hose guide "1"
• Clutch cable holder "2"
• Bolt (crankcase) "3"
Tighten the crankcase tightening
bolts in stage, using a crisscross pat-
tern.
7. Install:
• Oil delivery pipe 2 "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Bolt (oil delivery pipe 2) "3"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the Orings.
8. Install:
• Timing chain "1"
• Timing chain guide (intake side)
"2"
• Bolt (timing chain guide) "3"
9. Remove:
• Sealant
Forced out on the cylinder mating
surface.
10. Apply:
• Engine oil
To the crank pin, bearing and oil
delivery hole.
11. Check:
• Crankshaft and transmission op-
eration.
Unsmooth operation→Repair. Bolt (crankcase):
12 Nm (1.2 m•kg, 8.7
ft•lb)
Bolt (oil delivery pipe 2):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (timing chain guide):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

5-65
TRANSMISSION, SHIFT CAM AND SHIFT FORK
REMOVING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Remove:
• Main axle "1"
• Drive axle "2"
• Shift cam
• Shift fork 3
• Shift fork 2
• Shift fork 1
• Remove assembly with the collar
"3" installed to the crankcase.
• Remove assembly carefully. Note
the position of each part. Pay partic-
ular attention to the location and di-
rection of shift forks.
• Remove the main axle, drive axle,
shift cam and shift fork all together
by tapping lightly on the transmis-
sion drive axle with a soft hammer.
CHECKING THE GEARS
1. Inspect:
• Matching dog "a"
• Gear teeth "b"
• Shift fork groove "c"
Wear/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• O-ring "1"
Damage→Replace.
3. Check:
• Gears movement
Unsmooth movement→Repair or
replace.CHECKING THE BEARING
1. Inspect:
•Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
CHECKING THE SHIFT FORK,
SHIFT CAM AND SEGMENT
1. Inspect:
• Shift fork "1"
Wear/damage/scratches→Re-
place.
2. Inspect:
• Shift cam "1"
• Segment "2"
Wear/damage→Replace.
3. Check:
• Shift fork movement
Unsmooth operation→Replace
shift fork.
For a malfunctioning shift fork, re-
place not only the shift fork itself but
the two gears each adjacent to the
shift fork.
INSTALLING THE TRANSMISSION
1. Install:
• 5th pinion gear (19T) "1"
• 3rd pinion gear (17T) "2"
•Collar "3"
• 4th pinion gear (21T) "4"
• 2nd pinion gear (16T) "5"
To main axle "6".
Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the inner and end surface of the
idler gear and on the inner surface of
the sliding gear, then install.
2. Install:
• 2nd wheel gear (28T) "1"
• 4th wheel gear (23T) "2"
• 3rd wheel gear (23T) "3"
• 5th wheel gear (17T) "4"
• 1st wheel gear (31T) "5"
• O-ring "6"
To drive axle "7".
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the inner and end surface of the
idler gear and on the inner surface
of the sliding gear, then install.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.

5-66
TRANSMISSION, SHIFT CAM AND SHIFT FORK
3. Install:
• Washer "1"
• Circlip "2"
• Be sure the circlip sharp-edged cor-
ner "a" is positioned opposite side
to the washer and gear "b".
• Install the circlip with its ends "c"
settled evenly on the spline crests.
4. Install:
•Collar "1"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
• When installing the collar into the
crankcase, pay careful attention to
the crankcase oil seal lip.
5. Install:
• Shift fork 1 (L) "1"
• Shift fork 2 (C) "2"
• Shift fork 3 (R) "3"
• Shift cam "4"
To main axle and drive axle.
• Apply the engine oil on the shift fork
grooves.
• Mesh the shift fork #1 (L) with the
4th wheel gear "5" and #3 (R) with
the 5th wheel gear "7" on the drive
axle.
• Mesh the shift fork #2 (C) with the
3rd pinion gear "6" on the main ax-
le.
6. Install:
• Transmission assembly "1"
To left crankcase "2".
Apply the engine oil on the bearings
and guide bars.
7. Check:
• Shifter operation
• Transmission operation
Unsmooth operation→Repair.

6-3
FRONT WHEEL AND REAR WHEEL
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
REMOVING THE REAR WHEEL
1. Remove:
• Wheel "1"
Push the wheel forward and remove
the drive chain "2".
REMOVING THE WHEEL BEARING
1. Remove:
• Bearing "1"
Remove the bearing using a general
bearing puller "2".
CHECKING THE WHEEL
1. Measure:
• Wheel runout
Out of limit → Repair/replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure → Replace.
Replace the bearings, oil seal and
wheel collar as a set.
CHECKING THE WHEEL AXLE
1. Measure:
• Wheel axle bends
Out of specification → Replace.
Use the dial gauge "1".
The bending value is shown by one
half of the dial gauge reading.
Do not attempt to straighten a bent
axle.
CHECKING THE BRAKE DISC
1. Measure:
• Brake disc deflection (only rear
brake disc)
Use the dial gauge "1".
Out of specification → Inspect
wheel runout.
If wheel runout is in good condi-
tion, replace the brake disc.
2. Measure:
• Brake disc thickness "a"
Out of limit → Replace.INSTALLING THE FRONT WHEEL
1. Install:
• Bearing (left) "1"
• Spacer "2"
• Bearing (right) "3"
• Oil seal "4"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bearing and oil seal lip when
installing.
• Use a socket that matches the out-
side diameter of the race of the
bearing.
• Left side of bearing shall be in-
stalled first.
• Install the oil seal with its manufac-
ture's marks or numbers facing out-
ward.
Do not strike the inner race of the
bearing. Contact should be made
only with the outer race.
Wheel runout limit:
Radial "1": 2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Lateral "2": 2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Wheel axle bending limit:
0.50 mm (0.02 in)
Brake disc deflection lim-
it:
Rear:
: 0.15 mm
(0.006 in)
Brake disc thickness:
Front:
3.0 mm (0.12 in)
: 2.5 mm (0.10
in)
Rear:
4.0 mm (0.16 in)
: 3.5 mm (0.14
in)

6-15
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
FILLING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Fill:
• Brake fluid
Until the fluid level reaches
"LOWER" level line "a".
• Use only the designated quality
brake fluid:
otherwise, the rubber seals may
deteriorate, causing leakage and
poor brake performance.
• Refill with the same type of brake
fluid;
mixing fluids may result in a
harmful chemical reaction and
lead to poor performance.
• Be careful that water does not
enter the master cylinder when
refilling. Water will significantly
lower the boiling point of the flu-
id and may result in vapor lock.
Brake fluid may erode painted sur-
faces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediately.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Air bleed:
• Brake system
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion in the CHAPTER 3.
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section in
the CHAPTER 3.4. Install:
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Diaphragm
• Brake master cylinder cap "1"
• Screw (bolt) {brake master cylin-
der cap} "2"
After installation, while pulling the
brake lever in or pushing down on
the brake pedal, check whether
there is any brake fluid leaking
where the union bolts are installed
respectively at the brake master
cylinder and brake caliper.
A. Front
B. Rear
5. Install: (rear brake only)
• Protector "1"
• Bolt (protector) "2" Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4
Screw (bolt) {brake mas-
ter cylinder cap}:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Bolt (protector):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

6-18
FRONT FORK
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
The front fork requires careful atten-
tion. So it is recommended that the
front fork be maintained at the deal-
ers.
To prevent an accidental explosion
of air, the following instructions
should be observed:
• The front fork with a built-in pis-
ton rod has a very sophisticated
internal construction and is par-
ticularly sensitive to foreign ma-
terial. Use enough care not to
allow any foreign material to
come in when the oil is replaced
or when the front fork is disas-
sembled and reassembled.
• Before removing the cap bolts or
front forks, be sure to extract the
air from the air chamber com-
pletely.
REMOVING THE FRONT FORK
CAP BOLT
1. Remove:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
From the outer tube.
Before removing the front fork from
the machine, loosen the front fork cap
bolt.
2. Remove:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
Hold the locknut "2" and remove the
front fork cap bolt.
REMOVING THE INNER TUBE
1. Remove:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
Using slotted-head screwdriver.
Take care not to scratch the inner
tube.
2. Remove:
• Inner tube "1"
Oil seal removal steps:
a. Push in slowly "a" the inner tube
just before it bottoms out and then
pull it back quickly "b".
b. Repeat this step until the inner
tube can be pulled out from the
outer tube.
REMOVING THE DAMPER ROD
1. Remove:
• Base valve "1"
• Damper rod "2"
Use a damper rod holder "3" to lock
the damper rod.
CHECKING THE DAMPER ROD
1. Inspect:
• Damper rod "1"
Bend/damage→Replace damper
rod.
The front fork with a built-in piston
rod has a very sophisticated inter-
nal construction and is particularly
sensitive to foreign material.
Use enough care not to allow any
foreign material to come in when
the oil is replaced or when the
front fork is disassembled and re-
assembled.
CHECKING THE BASE VALVE
1. Inspect:
• Valve assembly "1"
Wear/damage →Replace.
• O-ring "2"
Damage→ Replace.
CHECKING THE FORK SPRING
1. Measure:
• Fork spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
Damper rod holder:
YM-01494/90890-01494
Fork spring free length:
460.0 mm (18.11 in)
: 455.0 mm
(17.91 in)

6-19
FRONT FORK
CHECKING THE INNER TUBE
1. Inspect:
• Inner tube surface "a"
Score marks→Repair or replace.
Use #1,000 grit wet sandpaper.
Damaged oil lock piece→Re-
place.
• Inner tube bends
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge "1".
The bending value is shown by one
half of the dial gauge reading.
Do not attempt to straighten a bent
inner tube as this may dangerous-
ly weaken the tube.
CHECKING THE OUTER TUBE
1. Inspect:
• Outer tube "1"
Score marks/wear/damage→Re-
place.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
CAP BOLT
1. Inspect:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Air bleed screw "3"
Wear/damage→Replace.ASSEMBLING THE FRONT FORK
1. Wash the all parts in a clean sol-
vent.
2. Install:
• Damper rod "1"
To inner tube "2".
To install the damper rod into the
inner tube, hold the inner tube
aslant. If the inner tube is held ver-
tically, the damper rod may fall into
it, damaging the valve inside.
3. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Base valve "3"
To inner tube "4".
4. Tighten:
• Base valve "1"
• Use a damper rod holder "2" to lock
the damper rod "3".
• Apply the LOCTITE
® on the base
valve thread.
5. Install:
• Spring guide "1"
• Locknut "2"
To damper rod "3".
• Install the spring guide with its
smaller dia.end "a" facing down-
ward.
• With its thread "b" facing upward,
fully finger tighten the locknut onto
the damper rod.
6. Install:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
• Oil seal "3"
• Oil seal washer "4"
• Slide metal "5"
To inner tube "6".
• Apply the fork oil on the inner tube.
• When installing the oil seal, use vi-
nyl seat "a" with fork oil applied to
protect the oil seal lip.
• Install the oil seal with its manufac-
ture's marks or number facing the
axle holder side.
• Install the oil seal washer with its
projections "b" facing upward.
Inner tube bending limit:
0.2 mm (0.01 in)
Base valve:
55 Nm (5.5 m•kg, 40
ft•lb)
Damper rod holder:
YM-01494/90890-01494