2013 YAMAHA YZ450F ECU

2-23
CABLE ROUTING DIAGRAM
1. Tension pipe
2. Coolant temperature sensor
coupler
3. Front engine bracket
4. Fuel pump coupler
5. Fuel pump
6. Intake air temperature sensor
coupler
7. Radiator hose 2
8. Radiator breather hose
9. Radiator hose 1
10. Radiator hose 4
11. Radiator pipe 2
12. Radiator hose 3
13. Cylinder head breather hose
14. Frame
15. ECU (electronic control unit)
16. ECU bracket
17. Main harness
18. AC magneto lead
19. Throttle position sensor lead
20. Condenser lead
21. Coolant temperature sensor
lead
22. Ignition coil lead
23. CondenserA. Fasten the wire harness at the
positioning tape to the ECU
bracket with a plastic locking tie.
Face the buckle of the plastic
locking tie downward, and then
cut off the excess end of the tie.
B. Install the cover onto the wire
harness coupler.
C. Route the condenser lead, throt-
tle position sensor lead, coolant
temperature sensor lead, igni-
tion coil lead, and AC magneto
lead under radiator hose 2.
D. Connect the vacuum hose to the
atmospheric pressure sensor,
and then fasten the hose with
the clamp. Make sure to face the
moving part of the sensor rear-
ward.
E. After connecting the condenser
coupler, install the coupler cover
onto the coupler.
F. After connecting the throttle po-
sition sensor coupler, install the
coupler cover onto the coupler.
G. Fasten the AC magneto lead,
condenser lead, throttle position
sensor lead, coolant tempera-
ture sensor lead, and ignition
coil lead to the frame with the
plastic band, making sure to po-
sition the band between the igni-
tion coil bracket and the tension
pipe. Face the buckle of the
plastic band to the right with the
end pointing rearward.
H. Point the end of the vacuum
hose rearward.
I. Fit the bracket into the hole in
the rubber portion of the con-
denser.
J. Fasten the radiator breather
hose to the frame with the plas-
tic band, making sure to position
the band above the front engine
bracket. Face the buckle of the
plastic band outward with the
end pointing rearward.
K. After connecting the coolant
temperature sensor coupler, in-
stall the coupler cover onto the
coupler.L. Route the radiator breather hose
between the down tubes.
M. Fasten the fuel hose and fuel
pump lead with the plastic band,
making sure to position the band
between the bend in the fuel
hose protector and the end of
the protector. Point the end of
the plastic band upward.
N. Insert the projection on the joint
coupler into the hole in the
bracket, and then install the cou-
pler cover onto the coupler.
O. Route the atmospheric pressure
sensor lead, intake air pressure
sensor lead, intake air tempera-
ture sensor lead, fuel injector
lead, and fuel pump lead above
radiator hose 2. Position the
joint coupler above radiator
hose 2.
P. Route the radiator breather hose
to the inside of radiator hose 1
and the front engine bracket.
Q. Hose installation position (1.3–
3.3 mm, 0.05–0.13 in)
R. Clip installation position (0–2.0
mm, 0–0.08 in)
S. Install the washer so that it con-
tacts the bolt head.
T. Install the collar so that the
flange on the collar contacts the
ECU bracket.
U. 6 mm (0.24 in) or less

3-5
PRE-OPERATION INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
PRE-OPERATION INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
Before riding for break-in operation, practice or a race, make sure the machine is in good operating condition.
Before using this machine, check the following points.
GENERAL INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE
Item Routine Page
CoolantCheck that coolant is filled up to the radiator cap. Check the cool-
ing system for leakage.P.3-6 – 7
FuelCheck that a fresh gasoline is filled in the fuel tank. Check the fuel
line for leakage.P.1-17
Engine oilCheck that the oil level is correct. Check the crankcase and oil line
for leakage.P.3-9 – 10
Gear shifter and clutchCheck that gears can be shifted correctly in order and that the
clutch operates smoothly.P.3-7
Throttle grip/HousingCheck that the throttle grip operation and free play are correctly
adjusted. Lubricate the throttle grip and housing, if necessary.P.3-8
Brakes Check the play of front brake and effect of front and rear brake. P.3-14 – 17
Drive chainCheck drive chain slack and alignment. Check that the drive chain
is lubricated properly.P.3-17 –18
WheelsCheck for excessive wear and tire pressure. Check for loose
spokes and have no excessive play.P.3-21
SteeringCheck that the handlebar can be turned smoothly and have no ex-
cessive play.P.3-21 – 22
Front forks and rear shock
absorberCheck that they operate smoothly and there is no oil leakage.
P.3-18 – 20
Cables (wires)Check that the clutch and throttle cables move smoothly. Check
that they are not caught when the handlebars are turned or when
the front forks travel up and down.—
Exhaust pipe Check that the exhaust pipe is tightly mounted and has no cracks. P.4-3 – 4
Rear wheel sprocket Check that the rear wheel sprocket tightening bolt is not loose. P.3-17
Lubrication Check for smooth operation. Lubricate if necessary. P.3-23
Bolts and nuts Check the chassis and engine for loose bolts and nuts. P.1-19
Lead connectorsCheck that the AC magneto, ECU and ignition coil are connected
tightly.P.1-10 – 11
SettingsIs the machine set suitably for the condition of the racing course
and weather or by taking into account the results of test runs be-
fore racing? Are inspection and maintenance completely done?P.8-1 – 5

3-21
CHASSIS
CHECKING THE TIRE PRESSURE
1. Measure:• Tire pressureOut of specification →Adjust.
• Check the tire while it is cold.
• Loose bead stoppers allow the tire
to slip off its position on the rim
when the tire pressure is low.
• A tilted tire valve stem indicates that
the tire slips off its position on the
rim.
• If the tire valve st em is found tilted,
the tire is considered to be slipping
off its position. Correct the tire posi-
tion.
CHECKING AND TIGHTENING THE
SPOKES
The following procedure applies to all
of the spokes.
1. Check: • SpokesBend/damage →Replace.
Loose spoke →Retighten.
Tap the spokes with a screw-
driver.
A tight spoke will emit a clear, ringing
tone; a loose spoke will sound flat.
2. Tighten: • Spokes(with a spoke nipple wrench "1")
Be sure to retighten these spokes be-
fore and after break-in.
CHECKING THE WHEELS
1. Inspect:
• Wheel runoutElevate the wheel and turn it.
Abnormal runout → Replace.
2. Inspect: • Bearing free playExist play →Replace.
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE
STEERING HEAD
1. Place a stand under the engine to raise the front wheel off the
ground. WARNING! Securely
support the vehicle so that
there is no danger of it falling
over.
2. Check: • Steering stem
Grasp the bottom of the forks and
gently rock the fork assembly
back and forth.
Free play →Adjust steering head. 3. Check:
• Steering smooth actionTurn the handlebar lock to lock.
Unsmooth action →Adjust steer-
ing ring nut.
4. Adjust: • Steering ring nut
Steering ring nut adjustment
steps:
a. Remove the number plate.
b. Remove the handlebar and upper bracket.
c. Loosen the steering ring nut "1"
using the steering nut wrench "2".
d. Tighten the steering ring nut "3" using steering nut wrench "4".
• Apply the lithium soap base grease on the thread of the steering stem.
• Set the torque wrench to the steer- ing nut wrench so that they form a
right angle.
Standard tire pressure:
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2,
15 psi)
Spoke nipple wrench: YM-01521/90890-01521
Spokes: 3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Steering nut wrench:YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering nut wrench: YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering ring nut (initial
tightening): 38 Nm (3.8 m•kg, 27
ft•lb)

3-25
ELECTRICAL
TROUBLESHOOTING
The following guide for troubleshooting does not cover all the possible causes of problems. If the following problems occur,
perform the specified checks or maintenance jobs. If a problem occurs that is not listed in this manual or if the problem
cannot be corrected by the procedures provided in this manual, contact your Yamaha dealer.
Engine starting problems, engine idling speed problems, and medium and high-speed performance problems
• Engine does not start even though the kickstarter is pushed.
• Engine starts, but soon stops.
Engine idling speed problems
• Engine idling speed fluctuates.
• Engine idling speed is high.
• Engine idling speed is low.
Medium and high-speed performance problems
• Engine speed does not increase.
• Engine knocks.
• Engine speed increases suddenly.
• Loss of engine power.
INSPECTION STEPS
If the aforementioned problems have occurred, perform the following inspection steps in the order given.
Check that the fuel tank is filled with fresh gaso-
line.No good→
Fill the fuel tank.
OK↓
Check that the fuel tank breather hose is not
clogged. (Refer to "INCLUDED PARTS" section
in the CHAPTER 1.)No good→
Repair or replace.
OK↓
Adjusting the engine idling speed(Refer to "AD-
JUSTING THE ENGINE IDLLING SPEED" sec-
tion in the CHAPTER 3.)No good→
Adjust.
OK↓
Check that the fuel hose is connected properly
and is not kinked or pinched.No good→
Repair.
OK↓
Check the spark plug for dirt, the spark plug gap,
and the spark plug cap. (Refer to "CHECKING
THE SPARK PLUG" section in the CHAPTER 3.)No good→
Clean or adjust.
OK↓
Check that the air filter element is installed cor-
rectly and is not clogged. (Refer to "CLEANING
THE AIR FILTER" section in the CHAPTER 3.)No good→
Clean or repair.
OK↓
Checking the sensors, injector and ignition coil
connection.No good→
Repair or replace.
OK↓
Installed condition of ECU (Refer to "CHECKING
THE ECU" section in the CHAPTER 7.)No good→
Repair.
OK↓
Check the assembled condition of the throttle
body, and check the throttle valve and its sur-
rounding parts for dirt.No good→
Repair or clean.
OK↓
Consult a Yamaha dealer.

4-20
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
f. Apply Mechanic's blueing dye
(Dykem) to the valve face.
g. Install the valve into the cylinder
head.
h. Press the valve through the valve
guide and onto the valve seat to
make a clear pattern.
i. Measure the valve seat width
again. If the valve seat width is out
of specification, reface and relap
the valve seat.
CHECKING THE VALVE SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Valve spring free length "a"
Out of specification → Replace.
2. Measure:
• Compressed spring force "a"
Out of specification → Replace.
b. Installed length3. Measure:
• Spring tilt "a"
Out of specification → Replace.
CHECKING THE VALVE LIFTERS
1. Inspect:
• Valve lifter
Scratches/damage→Replace
both lifters and cylinder head.
INSTALLING THE VALVES
1. Apply:
• Molybdenum disulfide oil
Onto the valve stem and valve
stem seal.
2. Install:
• Valves "1"
• Valve spring seats "2"
• Valve stem seals "3"
• Valve springs "4"
• Valve spring retainers "5"
• Install the valve "a" with the identifi-
cation 33DI on the intake side and
the valve "b" with the identification
33DE on the exhaust side.
• Install the valve springs with the
larger pitch "c" facing upward.
d. Smaller pitch
3. Install:
• Valve cotters
Install the valve cotters by compress-
ing the valve spring with the valve
spring compressor "1" and the valve
spring compressor attachment "2".
4. To secure the valve cotters onto
the valve stem, lightly tap the
valve tip with a piece of wood.
Hitting the valve tip with excessive
force could damage the valve.
5. Install:
• Adjusting pad "1"
• Valve lifter "2"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the valve stem end.
• Apply the engine oil on the valve lift-
ers.
• Valve lifter must turn smoothly
when rotated with a finger.
• Be careful to reinstall valve lifters
and pads in their original place.
Free length (valve
spring):
Intake:
40.76 mm (1.60 in)
: 39.76 mm
(1.57 in)
Exhaust:
37.01 mm (1.46 in)
: 36.01 mm
(1.42 in)
Compressed spring
force:
Intake:
178–204 N at 34.78
mm (18.2–20.8 kg at
34.78 mm, 40.01–
45.86 lb at 1.37 in)
Exhaust:
124–142 N at 30.83
mm (12.6–14.5 kg at
30.83 mm, 27.88–
31.92 lb at 1.21 in)
Spring tilt limit:
Intake:
2.5°/1.8 mm (0.071 in)
Exhaust:
2.5°/1.6 mm (0.063 in)
Valve spring compres-
sor:
YM-04019/90890-04019
Valve spring compressor
attachment:
YM-04108/90890-04108

4-48
ENGINE REMOVAL
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
REMOVING THE DRIVE
SPROCKET
1. Remove:
• Nut (drive sprocket) "1"
• Lock washer "2"
• Straighten the lock washer tab.
• Loosen the nut while applying the
rear brake.
2. Remove:
• Drive sprocket "1"
• Drive chain "2"
Remove the drive sprocket together
with the drive chain.
REMOVING THE ENGINE
1. Remove:
• Pivot shaft "1"
If the pivot shaft is pulled all the way
out, the swingarm will come loose. If
possible, insert a shaft of similar di-
ameter into the other side of the
swingarm to support it.
2. Remove:
• Engine "1"
From right side.
• Make sure that the couplers, hoses
and cables are disconnected.
• Turn the engine 90° to the right as
shown, and then, while lifting the
crankcase in the direction of the ar-
row shown, remove the engine from
the right side of the vehicle.
INSTALLING THE ENGINE
1. Install:
• Engine "1"
Install the engine from right side.
• Pivot shaft "2"
• Engine mounting bolt (lower) "3"
• Lower engine bracket "4"
• Bolt (lower engine bracket) "5"
• Patch "6"
• Engine mounting bolt (front) "7"
• Upper engine bracket "8"
• Bolt (upper engine bracket) "9"
• Engine mounting bolt (upper) "10"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide
grease on the pivot shaft.
• Install the patch with the claw "a"
facing outside the chassis.
INSTALLING THE BRAKE PEDAL
1. Install:
• Spring "1"
• Brake pedal "2"
• O-ring "3"
• Bolt (brake pedal) "4"
• Clip "5"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bolt, O-rings and brake pedal
bracket.
INSTALLING THE DRIVE
SPROCKET
1. Install:
• Drive sprocket "1"
• Drive chain "2"
Install the drive sprocket together
with the drive chain.
Pivot shaft:
85 Nm (8.5 m•kg, 61
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(lower):
53Nm (5.3 m•kg, 38
ft•lb)
Bolt (lower engine brack-
et):
34 Nm (3.4 m•kg, 24
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(front):
53 Nm (5.3 m•kg, 38
ft•lb)
Bolt (upper engine brack-
et):
45 Nm (4.5 m•kg, 32
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(upper):
45 Nm (4.5 m•kg, 32
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake pedal):
26 Nm (2.6 m•kg, 19
ft•lb)

5-3
FRONT WHEEL AND REAR WHEEL
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
REMOVING THE REAR WHEEL
1. Remove:
• Wheel "1"
Push the wheel forward and remove
the drive chain "2".
REMOVING THE WHEEL BEARING
1. Remove:
• Bearing "1"
Remove the bearing using a general
bearing puller "2".
CHECKING THE WHEEL
1. Measure:
• Wheel runout
Out of limit → Repair/replace.2. Inspect:
•Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure → Replace.
Replace the bearings, oil seal and
wheel collar as a set.
CHECKING THE WHEEL AXLE
1. Measure:
• Wheel axle bends
Out of specification → Replace.
Use the dial gauge "1".
The bending value is shown by one
half of the dial gauge reading.
Do not attempt to straighten a bent
axle.
CHECKING THE BRAKE DISC
1. Measure:
• Brake disc deflection (only rear
brake disc)
Use the dial gauge "1".
Out of specification → Inspect
wheel runout.
If wheel runout is in good condi-
tion, replace the brake disc.2. Measure:
• Brake disc thickness "a"
Out of limit → Replace.
INSTALLING THE FRONT WHEEL
1. Install:
• Bearing (left) "1"
• Spacer "2"
• Bearing (right) "3"
• Oil seal "4"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bearing and oil seal lip when
installing.
• Use a socket that matches the out-
side diameter of the race of the
bearing.
• Left side of bearing shall be in-
stalled first.
• Install the oil seal with its manufac-
ture's marks or numbers facing out-
ward.
Do not strike the inner race of the
bearing. Contact should be made
only with the outer race.
Wheel runout limit:
Radial "1": 2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Lateral "2": 2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Wheel axle bending limit:
0.5 mm (0.020 in)
Brake disc deflection lim-
it:
Rear:
: 0.15 mm
(0.006 in)
Brake disc thickness:
Front:
3.0 mm (0.12 in)
: 2.5 mm (0.10
in)
Rear:
4.0 mm (0.16 in)
: 3.5 mm (0.14
in)

5-10
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
DRAINING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap "1"
• Protector (rear brake)
Do not remove the diaphragm.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Connect the transparent hose "2"
to the bleed screw "1" and place a
suitable container under its end.
A. Front
B. Rear
3. Loosen the bleed screw and drain
the brake fluid while pulling the le-
ver in or pushing down on the
pedal.
• Do not reuse the drained brake
fluid.
• Brake fluid may erode painted
surfaces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediate-
ly.
REMOVING THE BRAKE CALIPER
PISTON
1. Remove:
• Brake caliper piston
Use compressed air and proceed
carefully.
• Cover piston with rag and use ex-
treme caution when expelling
piston from cylinder.
• Never attempt to pry out piston.
Caliper piston removal steps:
a. Insert a piece of rag into the brake
caliper to lock one brake caliper.
b. Carefully force the piston out of
the brake caliper cylinder with
compressed air.
A. Front
B. Rear
REMOVING THE BRAKE CALIPER
PISTON SEAL KIT
1. Remove:
• Brake caliper piston dust seal "1"
• Brake caliper piston seal "2"
Remove the brake caliper piston
seals and brake caliper piston dust
seals by pushing them with a finger.
Never attempt to pry out brake cal-
iper piston seals and brake caliper
piston dust seals.
Replace the brake caliper piston
seals and brake caliper piston dust
seals whenever a caliper is disas-
sembled.
A. Front
B. Rear
CHECKING THE BRAKE MASTER
CYLINDER
1. Inspect:
• Brake master cylinder inner sur-
face "a"
Wear/scratches → Replace mas-
ter cylinder assembly.
Stains→Clean.
Use only new brake fluid.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Inspect:
• Diaphragm "1"
Crack/damage→Replace.
A. Front
B. Rear