2012 YAMAHA YZ250F check oil

4-22
CYLINDER HEAD
CHECKING THE CYLINDER HEAD
1. Eliminate:
• Carbon deposits (from the com-
bustion chambers)
Use a rounded scraper.
Do not use a sharp instrument to
avoid damaging or scratching:
• Spark plug threads
• Valve seats
2. Inspect:
• Cylinder head
Scratches/damage→Replace.
Replace the titanium valves with the
cylinder head.
Refer to "CHECKING THE
VALVE".
3. Measure:
• Cylinder head warpage
Out of specification→Resurface.
Warpage measurement and resur-
facing steps:
a. Place a straightedge and a feeler
gauge across the cylinder head.
b. Use a feeler gauge to measure
the warpage.
c. If the warpage is out of specifica-
tion, resurface the cylinder head.
d. Place a 400–600 grit wet sandpa-
per on the surface plate, and re-
surface the head using a figure-
eight sanding pattern.
To ensure an even surface rotate the
cylinder head several times.
INSTALLING THE CYLINDER
HEAD
1. Install:
• Dowel pin "1"
• Cylinder head gasket "2"
• Timing chain guide (exhaust side)
"3"
• Cylinder head "4"
While pulling up the timing chain, in-
stall the timing chain guide (exhaust
side) and cylinder head.
2. Install:
• Washer "1"
• Cable guide "2"
• Bolts [L = 145 mm (5.71 in)] "3"
• Bolts [L = 135 mm (5.31 in)] "4"
•Nuts "5"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide
grease on the thread and contact
surface of the bolts.
• Follow the numerical order shown
in the illustration. Tighten the bolts
and nuts in two stages.
3. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Oil delivery pipe "2"
• Union bolt (M8) "3"
• Union bolt (M10) "4"
First tighten the union bolts temporar-
ily. Then retighten them with the width
"a" across flats of the oil delivery pipe
held tight with a spanner.
4. Install:
• Radiator pipe "1"
• Bolt (radiator pipe) "2" Cylinder head warpage:
Less than 0.05 mm
(0.002 in)
Bolts [L = 145 mm (5.71
in)]:
38 Nm (3.8 m•kg, 27
ft•lb)
Bolts [L = 135 mm (5.31
in)]:
38 Nm (3.8 m•kg, 27
ft•lb)
Nuts:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Union bolt (M8):
18 Nm (1.8 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
Union bolt (M10):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Bolt (radiator pipe):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

4-26
VALVES AND VALVE SPRINGS
h. Press the valve through the valve
guide and onto the valve seat to
make a clear pattern.
i. Measure the valve seat width
again. If the valve seat width is out
of specification, reface and relap
the valve seat.
CHECKING THE VALVE SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Valve spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
2. Measure:
• Compressed spring force "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
b. Installed length
3. Measure:
• Spring tilt "a"
Out of specification→Replace.CHECKING THE VALVE LIFTERS
1. Inspect:
• Valve lifter
Scratches/damage→Replace
both lifters and cylinder head.
INSTALLING THE VALVES
1. Apply:
• Molybdenum disulfide oil
Onto the valve stem and valve
stem seal.
2. Install:
• Valve "1"
• Valve spring seat "2"
• Valve stem seal "3"
• Valve spring "4"
• Valve spring retainer "5"
To cylinder head.
• Make sure that each valve is in-
stalled in its original place, also re-
ferring to the painted color as
follows.
Intake (middle) "a": Sky blue
Intake (right/left) "b": not paint
Exhaust "c": Purple
• Install the valve springs with the
larger pitch "d" facing upward.
e. Smaller pitch
3. Install:
• Valve cotter
While compressing the valve spring
with a valve spring compressor "1" in-
stall the valve cotters.
4. To secure the valve cotters onto
the valve stem, lightly tap the
valve tip with a piece of wood.
Hitting the valve tip with excessive
force could damage the valve.
5. Install:
• Adjusting pad "1"
• Valve lifter "2"
• Apply the molybdenum disulfide oil
on the valve stem end.
• Apply the engine oil on the valve lift-
ers.
• Valve lifter must turn smoothly
when rotated with a finger.
• Be careful to reinstall valve lifters
and pads in their original place.
Free length (valve
spring):
Intake:
39.76 mm (1.57 in)
: 38.76 mm
(1.53 in)
Exhaust:
37.78 mm (1.49 in)
: 36.78 mm
(1.45 in)
Compressed spring
force:
Intake:
99–114 N at 28.98 mm
(9.9–11.4 kg at 28.98
mm, 22.27–25.57 lb at
1.14 in)
Exhaust:
126–145 N at 28.30
mm (12.6–14.5 kg at
28.30 mm,
28.44–31.97 lb at 1.11
in)
Spring tilt limit:
Intake:
2.5°/1.7 mm (0.067 in)
Exhaust:
2.5°/1.6 mm (0.063 in)
Valve spring compres-
sor:
YM-4019/90890-04019

4-29
CYLINDER AND PISTON
2. Position:
• Piston ring
(in cylinder)
Insert a ring into the cylinder and
push it approximately 10 mm (0.39 in)
into the cylinder. Push the ring with
the piston crown so that the ring will
be at a right angle to the cylinder
bore.
a. 10 mm (0.39 in)
3. Measure:
• Ring end gap
Out of specification→Replace.
You cannot measure the end gap on
the expander spacer of the oil control
ring. If the oil control ring rails show
excessive gap, replace all three rings.
CHECKING THE PISTON PIN
1. Inspect:
• Piston pin
Blue discoloration/grooves→Re-
place, then inspect the lubrication
system.
2. Measure:
• Piston pin-to-piston clearance
Measurement steps:
a. Measure the outside diameter
(piston pin) "a".
If out of specification, replace the
piston pin.b. Measure the inside diameter (pis-
ton) "b".
c. Calculate the piston pin-to-piston
clearance with the following for-
mula.
d. If out of specification, replace the
piston.
INSTALLING THE PISTON RING
AND PISTON
1. Install:
•Piston ring
Onto the piston.
• Be sure to install the piston rings so
that the manufacturer's marks or
numbers are located on the upper
side of the rings.
• Lubricate the piston and piston
rings liberally with engine oil.
a. Top ring
b. 2nd ring2. Position:
•Top ring
•2nd ring
•Oil ring
Offset the piston ring end gaps as
shown.
a. Top ring end
b. 2nd ring end
c. Oil ring end (upper)
d. Oil ring
e. Oil ring end (lower)
3. Install:
• Piston "1"
• Piston pin "2"
• Piston pin clip "3"
• Apply engine oil onto the piston pin
and piston.
• Install the piston with the valve re-
cess "a" (at two points) facing to the
engine exhaust side.
• Before installing the piston pin clip,
cover the crankcase with a clean
rag to prevent the piston pin clip
from falling into the crankcase.
End gap:
Standard
Top
ring0.15–0.25 mm
(0.006–0.010 in)0.50
mm
(0.020
in)
2nd
ring0.30–0.45 mm
(0.012–0.018 in)0.80
mm
(0.031
in)
Oil
ring0.10–0.40 mm
(0.004–0.016 in)—
Outside diameter (piston
pin):
15.991–16.000 mm
(0.6296–0.6299 in)
Inside diameter (piston):
16.002–16.013 mm
(0.6300–0.6304 in)
Piston pin-to-piston clearance =
Inside diameter (piston) "b" -
Outside diameter (piston pin)
"a"
Piston pin-to-piston
clearance:
0.002–0.022 mm
(0.0001–0.0009 in)
:0.07 mm (0.003
in)

4-33
CLUTCH
REMOVING THE CLUTCH BOSS
1. Remove:
•Nut "1"
• Lock washer "2"
• Clutch boss "3"
Straighten the lock washer tab and
use the clutch holding tool "4" to hold
the clutch boss.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
CHECKING THE CLUTCH
HOUSING AND BOSS
1. Inspect:
• Clutch housing "1"
Cracks/wear/damage→Replace.
• Clutch boss "2"
Scoring/wear/damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE PRIMARY DRIVEN
GEAR
1. Check:
• Circumferential play
Free play exists→Replace.
• Gear teeth "a"
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE CLUTCH
SPRINGS
1. Measure:
• Clutch spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace
springs as a set.
CHECKING THE FRICTION
PLATES
1. Measure:
• Friction plate thickness
Out of specification→Replace
friction plate as a set.
Measure at all four points.
CHECKING THE CLUTCH PLATES
1. Measure:
• Clutch plate warpage
Out of specification→Replace
clutch plate as a set.
Use a surface plate "1" and thick-
ness gauge "2".CHECKING THE PUSH LEVER
SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Push lever shaft "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE PUSH ROD
1. Inspect:
• Push rod 1 "1"
• Bearing "2"
• Washer "3"
• Push rod 2 "4"
•Ball "5"
Wear/damage/bend→Replace.
INSTALLING THE PUSH LEVER
SHAFT
1. Install:
• Push lever shaft "1"
• Bolt (push lever shaft) "2"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
• Apply the engine oil on the push le-
ver shaft.
• Fit the seat plate "3" in the groove
"a" of the push lever shaft and tight-
en the bolt (seat plate).
Clutch holding tool:
YM-91042/90890-04086
Clutch spring free
length:
35.7 mm (1.41 in)
: 34.7 mm (1.37
in)
Friction plate thickness:
2.9–3.1 mm
(0.114–0.122 in)
: 2.8 mm (0.110
in)
Warp limit:
0.1 mm (0.004 in)
Bolt (push lever shaft):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

4-37
OIL FILTER ELEMENT AND WATER PUMP
REMOVING THE IMPELLER
SHAFT
1. Remove:
• Impeller "1"
• Washer "2"
• Impeller shaft "3"
Hold the impeller shaft on its width
across the flats "a" with spanners,
etc. and remove the impeller.
REMOVING THE OIL SEAL
It is not necessary to disassemble the
water pump, unless there is an abnor-
mality such as excessive change in
coolant level, discoloration of coolant,
or milky transmission oil.
1. Remove:
• Bearing "1"
2. Remove:
• Oil seal "1"CHECKING THE OIL DELIVERY
PIPE
1. Inspect:
• Oil delivery pipe "1"
Bend/damage→Replace.
Clogged→Blow.
CHECKING THE IMPELLER SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Impeller shaft "1"
Bend/wear/damage→Replace.
Fur deposits→Clean.
CHECKING THE IMPELLER SHAFT
GEAR
1. Inspect:
• Gear teeth "a"
Wear/damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE BEARING
1. Inspect:
•Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.CHECKING THE OIL SEAL
1. Inspect:
• Oil seal "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.
INSTALLING THE OIL SEAL
1. Install:
• Oil seal "1"
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
• Install the oil seal with its manufac-
ture's marks or numbers facing the
right crankcase cover "2".
2. Install:
• Bearing "1"
Install the bearing by pressing its out-
er race parallel.

4-41
BALANCER
REMOVING THE BALANCER
1. Straighten the lock washer tab.
2. Loosen:
• Nut (primary drive gear) "1"
• Nut (balancer shaft driven gear)
"2"
Place an aluminum plate "a" between
the teeth of the balancer shaft drive
gear "3" and driven gear "4".
3. Remove:
• Balancer shaft "1"
When removing the balancer shaft,
align the center "a" of the balancer
shaft weight along the line connecting
the centers of the crankshaft and bal-
ancer shaft.
CHECKING THE PRIMARY DRIVE
GEAR, BALANCER SHAFT DRIVE
GEAR AND BALANCER SHAFT
DRIVEN GEAR
1. Inspect:
• Primary drive gear "1"
• Balancer shaft drive gear "2"
• Balancer shaft driven gear "3"
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE BALANCER
SHAFT
1. Inspect:
• Balancer shaft
Cracks/damage→Replace.
INSTALLING THE BALANCER
1. Install:
• Balancer shaft "1"
• Apply the engine oil on the bearing.
• When installing the balancer shaft,
align the center "a" of the balancer
shaft weight along the line connect-
ing the centers of the crankshaft
and balancer shaft.
2. Install:
• Balancer shaft driven gear "1"
Install the balancer shaft driven gear
onto the balancer shaft while aligning
the punch mark "a" on the balancer
shaft driven gear with the lower spline
"b" on the balancer shaft end.
3. Install:
• Balancer shaft drive gear "1"
• Align the punched mark "a" on the
balancer shaft drive gear with the
punched mark "b" on the balancer
shaft driven gear "2".
• Align the punched mark "c" on the
balancer shaft drive gear with the
lower spline "d" on the crankshaft
end.
4. Install:
• Lock washer "1"
• Nut (balancer shaft driven gear)
"2"
• Primary drive gear "3"
• Lock washer "4"
• Nut (primary drive gear) "5"
• Install the primary drive gear with its
stepped side "a" facing the engine.
• Place an aluminum plate "b" be-
tween the teeth of the balancer
shaft drive gear "6" and driven gear
"7".
5. Bend the lock washer tab.
Nut (balancer shaft driv-
en gear):
50 Nm (5.0 m•kg, 36
ft•lb)
Nut (primary drive gear):
75 Nm (7.5 m•kg, 54
ft•lb)

4-44
OIL PUMP
CHECKING THE OIL PUMP
1. Inspect:
• Oil pump drive gear "1"
• Oil pump drive shaft "2"
• Rotor housing "3"
• Oil pump cover "4"
Cracks/wear/damage→Replace.
2. Measure:
• Tip clearance "a"
(between the inner rotor "1" and
outer rotor "2")
• Side clearance "b"
(between the outer rotor "2" and
rotor housing "3")
• Housing and rotor clearance "c"
(between the rotor housing "3"
and rotors "1" "2")
Out of specification→Replace the
oil pump assembly.3. Check:
• Unsmooth→Repeat steps #1 and
#2 or replace the defective parts.
INSTALLING THE OIL PUMP
1. Install:
• Oil pump drive shaft "1"
• Washer "2"
• Dowel pin "3"
• Inner rotor 1 "4"
• Apply the engine oil on the oil pump
drive shaft and inner rotor 1.
• Fit the dowel pin into the groove in
the inner rotor 1.
2. Install:
• Outer rotor 1 "1"
Apply the engine oil on the outer rotor
1.
3. Install:
• Oil pump cover "1"
• Screw (oil pump cover) "2"
• Dowel pin "3"
• Inner rotor 2 "4"
• Circlip "5"
• Apply the engine oil on the inner ro-
tor 2.
• Fit the dowel pin into the groove in
the inner rotor 2.
4. Install:
• Outer rotor 2 "1"
• Dowel pin "2"
• Oil pump assembly "3"
• Bolt (oil pump assembly)
[L = 25 mm (0.94 in)] "4"
• Bolt (oil pump assembly)
[L = 30 mm (1.18 in)] "5"
Apply the engine oil on the outer rotor
2.
5. Install:
• Oil pump drive gear "1"
• Washer "2"
• Circlip "3"
Apply the engine oil on the oil pump
drive gear inner circumference.
Tip clearance "a":
0.12 mm or less (0.0047
in or less)
: 0.20 mm
(0.008 in)
Side clearance "b":
0.09–0.17 mm
(0.0035–0.0067 in)
: 0.24 mm
(0.009 in)
Housing and rotor clear-
ance "c":
0.03–0.10 mm
(0.0012–0.0039 in)
: 0.17 mm
(0.0067 in)
Screw (oil pump cover):
1.7 Nm (0.17 m•kg, 1.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (oil pump assem-
bly):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (oil pump assem-
bly):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

4-60
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Separate:
• Right crankcase
• Left crankcase
Separation steps:
a. Remove the crankcase bolts "1",
hose guide "2" and clutch cable
holder "3".
Loosen each bolt 1/4 of a turn at a
time and after all the bolts are loos-
ened, remove them.
b. Remove the right crankcase "4".
• Place the crankcase with its left half
downward and split the right half
apart while lifting it horizontally by
lightly tapping the projection "a" on
it using a soft hammer.
• When splitting it, leave the crank-
shaft and transmission with the left
half.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If the
cases do not separate, check for a
remaining case bolt or fitting. Do
not force.
c. Remove the dowel pins and O-
ring.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner
race.
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE TIMING CHAIN
AND TIMING CHAIN GUIDE
1. Inspect:
• Timing chain
Cracks/stiff→Replace the timing
chain and camshaft sprocket as a
set.
2. Inspect:
• Timing chain guide
Wear/damage→Replace.CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge.
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252
Standard
Runo
ut lim-
it:0.03 mm (0.0012
in)0.05
mm
(0.002
in)
Small
end
free
play:0.4–1.0 mm
(0.016–0.039 in)2.0 mm
(0.08 in)
Side
clear-
ance:0.15–0.45 mm
(0.0059–0.0177
in)0.50
mm
(0.02 in)
Crack
width:55.95–56.00
mm
(2.203–2.205 in)—