2011 YAMAHA YZ125LC lock

4-35
ENGINE REMOVAL
ENGINE REMOVAL
REMOVING THE ENGINE
Order Part name Q'ty Remarks
Hold the machine by placing the suitable stand
under the engine.Refer to "HANDLING NOTE".
Seat and fuel tank Refer to "SEAT, FUEL TANK AND SIDE
COVERS" section.
Carburetor Refer to "CARBURETOR AND REED
VALVE" section.
Exhaust pipe and silencer Refer to "EXHAUST PIPE AND SILENCER"
section.
Clutch cable Disconnect at the engine side.
Radiator Refer to "RADIATOR" section.
Spark plug cap
Disconnect the CDI magneto lead.
1 Drive chain sprocket cover 1
2 Nut (drive sprocket) 1 Refer to removal section.
3 Lock washer 1 Refer to removal section.
4 Drive sprocket 1 Refer to removal section.
5Clip 1
6 Bolt (brake pedal) 1
26 Nm (2.6 m kg, 19 ft lb)
64 Nm (6.4 m kg, 46 ft lb)
64 Nm (6.4 m kg, 46 ft lb)
85 Nm (8.5 m kg, 61 ft lb)
75 Nm (7.5 m kg, 54 ft lb)
5 Nm (0.5 m kg, 3.6 ft lb)
34 Nm (3.4 m kg, 24 ft lb)

4-37
ENGINE REMOVAL
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
REMOVING THE DRIVE
SPROCKET
1. Remove:
• Nut (drive sprocket) "1"
• Lock washer "2"
• Straighten the lock washer tab.
• Loosen the nut while applying the
rear brake.
2. Remove:
• Drive sprocket "1"
• Drive chain "2"
Remove the drive sprocket together
with the drive chain.
REMOVING THE ENGINE
1. Remove:
• Pivot shaft "1"
If the pivot shaft is pulled all the way
out, the swingarm will come loose. If
possible, insert a shaft of similar di-
ameter into the other side of the swin-
garm to support it.
2. Remove:
• Engine "1"
From right side.
Make sure that the couplers, hoses
and cables are disconnected.
INSTALLING THE ENGINE
1. Install:
• Engine "1"
Install the engine from right side.
• Pivot shaft "2"
• Engine mounting bolt (lower) "3"
• Engine mounting bolt (front) "4"
• Engine bracket "5"
• Bolt (engine bracket) "6"
• Engine mounting bolt (upper) "7"
Apply the molybdenum disulfide
grease on the pivot shaft.
INSTALLING THE BRAKE PEDAL
1. Install:
• Spring "1"
• Brake pedal "2"
• O-ring "3"
• Bolt (brake pedal) "4"
• Clip "5"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bolt, O-rings and brake pedal
bracket.
INSTALLING THE DRIVE
SPROCKET
1. Install:
• Drive sprocket "1"
• Drive chain "2"
Install the drive sprocket together
with the drive chain.
2. Install:
• Lock washer "1"
• Nut (drive sprocket) "2"
Tighten the nut while applying the
rear brake.
3. Bend the lock washer tab to lock
the nut.
Pivot shaft:
85 Nm (8.5 m•kg, 61
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(lower):
64Nm (6.4 m•kg, 46
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(front):
64 Nm (6.4 m•kg, 46
ft•lb)
Bolt (engine bracket):
34 Nm (3.4 m•kg, 24
ft•lb)
Engine mounting bolt
(upper):
34 Nm (3.4 m•kg, 24
ft•lb)
Bolt (brake pedal):
26 Nm (2.6 m•kg, 19
ft•lb)
Nut (drive sprocket):
75 Nm (7.5 m•kg, 54
ft•lb)

4-41
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
REMOVING THE SEGMENT
1. Remove:
• Bolt (segment) "1"
• Segment "2"
Turn the segment counterclockwise
until it stops and loosen the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when removing the bolt.
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Remove:
• Crankcase (right) "1"
Use the flywheel puller "2".
• Make appropriate bolts "3" as
shown available by yourself and at-
tach the tool with them.
• Fully tighten the tool holding bolts,
but make sure the tool body is par-
allel with the case. If necessary,
one screw may be backed out
slightly to level tool body.
• As pressure is applied, alternately
tap on the engine mounting boss
and transmission shafts.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If one
end "hangs up", take pressure off
the push screw, realign, and start
over. If the cases do not separate,
check for a remaining case bolt or
fitting. Do not force.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Make appropriate bolts "3" as shown
available by yourself and attach the
tool with them.
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner race
as shown in "A".
• If the bearing is removed together
with the crankshaft, remove the
bearing using a general bearing
puller "2" as shown in "B".
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal "1"
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge. Flywheel puller:
YU-1362-A/90890-
01362
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252

4-43
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
• Apply molybdenum disulfide grease
to the surface "a" where the crank-
shaft and bearing come in contact.
• Use two plain washers (Yamaha
genuine: 90201-243K3) "5" or the
ones of a size as shown one on the
other. (Except for USA and CDN)
• Install so that the plain washers do
not deviate from the crankshaft cen-
ter. (Except for USA and CDN)
• When installing the crankcase, the
connecting rod should be posi-
tioned at TDC (top dead center).
• Install while checking that the dowel
pin is in place.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
6. Install:
• Clamp "1"
• Bolt (crankcase) "2"
Tighten the crankcase tightening
bolts in stage, using a crisscross pat-
tern.
7. Install:
• Holder "1"
• Bolt (holder) "2"
8. Install:
• Segment "1"
• Bolt (segment) "2"
• When installing the segment onto
the shift cam "3", align the punch
mark "a" with the dowel pin "b".
• Turn the segment clockwise until it
stops and tighten the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when tightening the bolt.
9. Remove:
• Sealant
Forced out on the cylinder mating
surface.
10. Apply:
• Engine oil
To the crank pin, bearing, oil de-
livery hole and connecting rod big
end washer.11. Check:
• Crankshaft and transmission op-
eration.
Unsmooth operation→Repair.
If the crankshaft will not turn smooth-
ly, make an adjustment by gently tap-
ping its right end with a soft hammer.
Bolt (crankcase):
14 Nm (1.4 m•kg, 10
ft•lb)
(1.771.97 in)
(0.98
1.50 in)
(0.16
0.20 in)
Bolt (holder):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (segment):
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)

5-5
FRONT WHEEL AND REAR WHEEL
4. Install:
•Collar "1"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the oil seal lip.
5. Install:
• Wheel
Install the brake disc "1" between the
brake pads "2" correctly.
6. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
Push the wheel "2" forward and install
the drive chain.
7. Install:
• Left drive chain puller "1"
• Wheel axle "2"
• Install the left drive chain puller, and
insert the wheel axle from left side.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the wheel axle.
8. Install:
• Right drive chain puller "1"
• Washer "2"
• Nut (wheel axle) "3"
Temporarily tighten the nut (wheel
axle) at this point.
9. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE
DRIVE CHAIN SLACK" section in
the CHAPTER 3.
10. Tighten:
• Nut (wheel axle) "1"
• Locknut "2"
Drive chain slack:
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
Nut (wheel axle):
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)

5-10
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
DRAINING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap "1"
• Protector (rear brake)
Do not remove the diaphragm.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Connect the transparent hose "2"
to the bleed screw "1" and place a
suitable container under its end.
A. Front
B. Rear
3. Loosen the bleed screw and drain
the brake fluid while pulling the le-
ver in or pushing down on the
pedal.
• Do not reuse the drained brake
fluid.
• Brake fluid may erode painted
surfaces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediate-
ly.
REMOVING THE BRAKE CALIPER
PISTON
1. Remove:
• Brake caliper piston
Use compressed air and proceed
carefully.
• Cover piston with rag and use ex-
treme caution when expelling
piston from cylinder.
• Never attempt to pry out piston.
Caliper piston removal steps:
a. Insert a piece of rag into the brake
caliper to lock one brake caliper.
b. Carefully force the piston out of
the brake caliper cylinder with
compressed air.
A. Front
B. Rear
REMOVING THE BRAKE CALIPER
PISTON SEAL KIT
1. Remove:
• Brake caliper piston dust seal "1"
• Brake caliper piston seal "2"
Remove the brake caliper piston
seals and brake caliper piston dust
seals by pushing them with a finger.
Never attempt to pry out brake cal-
iper piston seals and brake caliper
piston dust seals.
Replace the brake caliper piston
seals and brake caliper piston dust
seals whenever a caliper is disas-
sembled.
A. Front
B. Rear
CHECKING THE BRAKE MASTER
CYLINDER
1. Inspect:
• Brake master cylinder inner sur-
face "a"
Wear/scratches → Replace mas-
ter cylinder assembly.
Stains→Clean.
Use only new brake fluid.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Inspect:
• Diaphragm "1"
Crack/damage→Replace.
A. Front
B. Rear
3. Inspect: (front brake only)
• Reservoir float "1"
Damage→Replace.
4. Inspect:
• Brake master cylinder piston "1"
• Brake master cylinder cup "2"
Wear/damage/score marks→Re-
place brake master cylinder kit.

5-14
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
4. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake master cylinder.
INSTALLING THE REAR BRAKE
HOSE
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake caliper.
2. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Screw (brake hose holder) "2"
After installing the brake hose
holders, make sure the brake hose
does not contact the spring (rear
shock absorber). If it does, correct
its twist.
FILLING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Fill:
•Brake fluid
Until the fluid level reaches
"LOWER" level line "a".
• Use only the designated quality
brake fluid:
otherwise, the rubber seals may
deteriorate, causing leakage and
poor brake performance.
• Refill with the same type of brake
fluid;
mixing fluids may result in a
harmful chemical reaction and
lead to poor performance.
• Be careful that water does not
enter the master cylinder when
refilling. Water will significantly
lower the boiling point of the flu-
id and may result in vapor lock.
Brake fluid may erode painted sur-
faces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediately.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Air bleed:
• Brake system
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion in the CHAPTER 3.
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section in
the CHAPTER 3. Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Screw (brake hose hold-
er):
3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4

5-18
FRONT FORK
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
The front fork requires careful atten-
tion. So it is recommended that the
front fork be maintained at the deal-
ers.
To prevent an accidental explosion
of air, the following instructions
should be observed:
• The front fork with a built-in pis-
ton rod has a very sophisticated
internal construction and is par-
ticularly sensitive to foreign ma-
terial. Use enough care not to
allow any foreign material to
come in when the oil is replaced
or when the front fork is disas-
sembled and reassembled.
• Before removing the base valves
or front forks, be sure to extract
the air from the air chamber com-
pletely.
REMOVING THE DAMPER
ASSEMBLY
1. Loosen:
• Damper assembly "1"
Before removing the front fork from
the machine, loosen the damper as-
sembly with the cap bolt ring wrench
"2".
REMOVING THE ADJUSTER
1. Drain the outer tube of its front
fork oil at its top.
2. Loosen:
•Adjuster "1"3. Remove:
•Adjuster "1"
• While compressing the inner tube
"2", set the cap bolt ring wrench "4"
between the inner tube and locknut
"3".
• Hold the locknut and remove the
adjuster.
Do not remove the locknut as the
damper rod may go into the damp-
er assembly and not be taken out.
REMOVING THE INNER TUBE
1. Remove:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
Using slotted-head screwdriver.
Take care not to scratch the inner
tube.
2. Remove:
• Inner tube "1"
Oil seal removal steps:
a. Push in slowly "a" the inner tube
just before it bottoms out and then
pull it back quickly "b".
b. Repeat this step until the inner
tube can be pulled out from the
outer tube.
REMOVING THE BASE VALVE
1. Remove:
• Base valve "1"
From damper assembly "2".
Hold the damper assembly with the
cap bolt ring wrench "3" and use the
cap bolt wrench "4" to remove the
base valve.
CHECKING THE DAMPER
ASSEMBLY
1. Inspect:
• Damper assembly "1"
Bend/damage → Replace.
• O-ring "2"
Wear/damage → Replace.
The front fork with a built-in piston
rod has a very sophisticated inter-
nal construction and is particularly
sensitive to foreign material.
Use enough care not to allow any
foreign material to come in when
the oil is replaced or when the
front fork is disassembled and re-
assembled.Cap bolt ring wrench:
YM-01501/90890-01501
Cap bolt ring wrench:
YM-01501/90890-01501
Cap bolt wrench:
YM-01500/90890-01500
Cap bolt ring wrench:
YM-01501/90890-01501