2011 YAMAHA YZ125LC oil pressure

4-22
CLUTCH
2. Install:
• Thrust washer [D=ø34 mm (1.34
in)] "1"
• Clutch boss "2"
3. Install:
• Lock washer "1"
• Nut (clutch boss) "2"
Use the clutch holding tool "3" to hold
the clutch boss.
A. For USA and CDN
B. Except for USA and CDN
4. Bend the lock washer "1" tab.5. Install:
• Friction plate "1"
• Clutch plate "2"
• Install the clutch plates and friction
plates alternately on the clutch
boss, starting with a friction plate
and ending with a friction plate.
• Apply the transmission oil on the
friction plates and clutch plates.
6. Install:
•Bearing "1"
• Washer "2"
• Circlip "3"
To push rod 1 "4".
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the bearing and washer.
7. Install:
• Push rod 2 "1"
• Ball "2"
• Push rod 1 "3"
Apply the transmission oil on the
push rod 1, 2 and ball.
8. Install:
• Pressure plate "1"9. Install:
• Clutch spring "1"
• Bolt (clutch spring) "2"
Tighten the bolts in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
10. Install:
• Dowel pin "1"
• Gasket (clutch cover) "2"
11. Install:
• Clutch cover "1"
• Bolt (clutch cover)
Tighten the bolts in stage, using a
crisscross pattern.
12. Install:
• O-ring "1"
• Clutch cable "2"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the O-ring.
Nut (clutch boss):
80 Nm (8.0 m•kg, 58
ft•lb)
Clutch holding tool:
YM-91042/90890-04086
Bolt (clutch spring):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (clutch cover):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)

4-41
CRANKCASE AND CRANKSHAFT
REMOVING THE SEGMENT
1. Remove:
• Bolt (segment) "1"
• Segment "2"
Turn the segment counterclockwise
until it stops and loosen the bolt.
If the segment gets an impact, it
may be damaged. Take care not to
give an impact to the segment
when removing the bolt.
DISASSEMBLING THE
CRANKCASE
1. Remove:
• Crankcase (right) "1"
Use the flywheel puller "2".
• Make appropriate bolts "3" as
shown available by yourself and at-
tach the tool with them.
• Fully tighten the tool holding bolts,
but make sure the tool body is par-
allel with the case. If necessary,
one screw may be backed out
slightly to level tool body.
• As pressure is applied, alternately
tap on the engine mounting boss
and transmission shafts.
Use soft hammer to tap on the
case half. Tap only on reinforced
portions of case. Do not tap on
gasket mating surface. Work slow-
ly and carefully. Make sure the
case halves separate evenly. If one
end "hangs up", take pressure off
the push screw, realign, and start
over. If the cases do not separate,
check for a remaining case bolt or
fitting. Do not force.
REMOVING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Remove:
• Crankshaft "1"
Use the crankcase separating
tool "2".
Make appropriate bolts "3" as shown
available by yourself and attach the
tool with them.
Do not use a hammer to drive out
the crankshaft.
REMOVING THE CRANKCASE
BEARING
1. Remove:
•Bearing "1"
• Remove the bearing from the
crankcase by pressing its inner race
as shown in "A".
• If the bearing is removed together
with the crankshaft, remove the
bearing using a general bearing
puller "2" as shown in "B".
• Do not use the removed bearing.
CHECKING THE CRANKCASE
1. Inspect:
• Contacting surface "a"
Scratches→Replace.
• Engine mounting boss "b", crank-
case
Cracks/damage→Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing "1"
Rotate inner race with a finger.
Rough spot/seizure→Replace.
3. Inspect:
• Oil seal "1"
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE CRANKSHAFT
1. Measure:
• Runout limit "a"
• Small end free play limit "b"
• Connecting rod big end side
clearance "c"
• Crank width "d"
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge and a thick-
ness gauge. Flywheel puller:
YU-1362-A/90890-
01362
Crankcase separating
tool:
YU-1135-A/90890-
01135
Dial gauge and stand:
YU-3097/90890-01252

5-20
FRONT FORK
6. Tighten:
• Locknut "1"
Fully finger tighten the locknut onto
the damper assembly.
7. Loosen:
• Compression damping adjuster
"1"
• Loosen the compression damping
adjuster finger tight.
• Record the set position of the ad-
juster (the amount of turning out the
fully turned in position).
8. Install:
• Base valve "1"
To damper assembly "2".
First bring the damper rod pressure to
a maximum. Then install the base
valve while releasing the damper rod
pressure.
9. Check:
• Damper assembly
Not fully stretched → Repeat the
steps 2 to 8.
10. Tighten:
• Base valve "1"
Hold the damper assembly with the
cap bolt ring wrench "2" and use the
cap bolt wrench "3" to tighten the
base valve with specified torque.
11. After filling, pump the damper as-
sembly "1" slowly up and down
more than 10 times to distribute
the fork oil.
12. While protecting the damper as-
sembly "1" with a rag and com-
pressing fully, allow excessive oil
to overflow on the base valve
side.
Take care not to damage the damp-
er assembly.
13. Allow the overflowing oil to es-
cape at the hole "a" in the damper
assembly.14. Check:
• Damper assembly smooth move-
ment
Tightness/binding/rough spots →
Repeat the steps 2 to 13.
15. Install:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
• Oil seal "3"
• Oil seal washer "4"
• Slide metal "5"
To inner tube "6".
• Apply the fork oil on the inner tube.
• When installing the oil seal, use vi-
nyl seat "a" with fork oil applied to
protect the oil seal lip.
• Install the oil seal with its manufac-
ture's marks or number facing the
axle holder side.
16. Install:
• Piston metal "1"
Install the piston metal onto the slot
on inner tube.
Base valve:
29 Nm (2.9 m•kg, 21 ft•
lb)
Cap bolt wrench:
YM-01500/90890-01500
Cap bolt ring wrench:
YM-01501/90890-01501

5-40
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
HANDLING NOTE
• Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling
over.
• This rear shock absorber is pro-
vided with a separate type tank
filled with high-pressure nitro-
gen gas. To prevent the danger
of explosion, read and under-
stand the following information
before handling the shock ab-
sorber. The manufacturer can
not be held responsible for prop-
erty damage or personal injury
that may result from improper
handling.
• Never tamper or attempt to dis-
assemble the cylinder or the
tank.
• Never throw the rear shock ab-
sorber into an open flame or
other high heat. The rear shock
absorber may explode as a re-
sult of nitrogen gas expansion
and/ or damage to the hose.
• Be careful not to damage any
part of the gas tank. A damaged
gas tank will impair the damp-
ing performance or cause a
malfunction.
• Take care not to scratch the
contact surface of the piston
rod with the cylinder; or oil
could leak out.
• Never attempt to remove the
plug at the bottom of the nitro-
gen gas tank. It is very danger-
ous to remove the plug.
• When scrapping the rear shock
absorber, follow the instruc-
tions on disposal.
NOTES ON DISPOSAL (YAMAHA
DEALERS ONLY)
Before disposing the rear shock ab-
sorber, be sure to extract the nitrogen
gas from valve "1". Wear eye protec-
tion to prevent eye damage from es-
caping gas and/or metal chips.
To dispose of a damaged or worn-
out rear shock absorber, take the
unit to your Yamaha dealer for this
disposal procedure.
REMOVING THE BEARING
1. Remove:
• Stopper ring (upper bearing) "1"
Press in the bearing while pressing its
outer race and remove the stopper
ring.
2. Remove:
• Upper bearing "1"
Remove the bearing by pressing its
outer race.
3. Remove:
• Lower bearing "1"
Remove the bearing by pressing its
outer race.
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Damper rod "1"
Bends/damage→Replace rear
shock absorber assembly.
• Shock absorber "2"
Oil leaks→Replace rear shock
absorber assembly.
Gas leaks→Replace rear shock
absorber assembly.
• Spring "3"
Damage→Replace spring.
Fatigue→Replace spring.
Move spring up and down.
• Spring guide "4"
Wear/damage→Replace spring
guide.
• Spring seat "5"
Cracks/damage →Replace.
• Bearing "6"
Free play exists/unsmooth revolu-
tion/rust →Replace.
INSTALLING THE BEARING
1. Install:
• Upper bearing "1"
Install the bearing parallel until the
stopper ring groove appears by
pressing its outer race.
Do not apply the grease on the
bearing outer race because it will
wear the rear shock absorber sur-
face on which the bearing is press
fitted.

7-1
ENGINE
TUNING
ENGINE
CARBURETOR SETTING
• The role of fuel is to cool the engine, and in the case of a 2-stroke en-
gine, to lubricate the engine in addi-
tion to power generation.
Accordingly, if a mixture of air and
fuel is too lean, abnormal combus-
tion will occur, and engine seizure
may result. If the mixture is too rich,
spark plugs will get wet with oil, thus
making it impossible to bring the en-
gine into full play or if the worst
comes to the worst, the engine may
stall.
• The richness of the air-fuel mixture
required for the engine will vary with
atmospheric conditions of the day
and therefore, the settings of the
carburetor must be properly suited
to the atmospheric conditions (air
pressure, humidity and tempera-
ture).
• Finally, the rider himself must make a test-run and check his machine
for conditions (pick-up of engine
speed, road surface conditions)
and for the discoloration of the
spark plug(s). After taking these
into consideration, he must select
the best possible carburetor set-
tings.
It is advisable to make a note of set-
tings, atmospheric conditions, road
surface condition, lap-time, etc. so
that the memorandum can be used
as a reference useful for future.
ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS AND
CARBURETOR SETTINGS
The reason for the above tendency is
that the richness or leanness of a fuel
mixture depends on the density of the
air (i.e. the concentration of oxygen in
it).
• Higher temperature expands the air with its resultant reduced density. • Higher humidity reduces the
amount of oxygen in the air by so
much of the water vapor in the
same air.
• Lower atmospheric pressure (at a high altitude) reduces the density of
the air.
TEST RUN
After warming up the engine
equipped with the standard type car-
buretor(s) and spark plug(s), run two
or three laps of the circuit and check
the smooth operation of the engine
and discoloration of spark plug(s).
A. Normal
B. Over burned (too lean)
C. Oil fouled (too rich)
EFFECT OF SETTING PARTS IN
RELATION TO THROTTLE VALVE
OPENING A. Closed
B. Full-open
1. Pilot air screw
2. Pilot jet
3. Jet needle
4. Diameter of straight portion
5. Clip position
6. Throttle valve
7. Main jet
ADJUSTING THE MAIN JET
The richness of air-fuel mixture with
1/2–4/4 throttle can be set by chang-
ing the main jet "1".
1. Spark plug is too hot. • Select a main jet having higher calibrating No. than standard. (To
be enriched)
2. Spark plug is wet. • Select a main jet having lower cal-
ibrating No. than standard. (To be
leaned out)
ADJUSTING THE PILOT AIR
SCREW
The richness of the air-fuel mixture
with full closed to 1/4 throttle can be
set by turning the pilot air screw "1".
Turning in the pilot air screw will en-
rich the mixture at low speeds, and
turning out it will lean out the mixture.
Air
temp . Hu-
midi- ty Air
pres- sure
(alti-
tude) Mix-
ture Set-
ting
High High Low
(high) Rich-
er Lean
er
Low Low High
(low) Lean
er Rich-
er
Discoloration Condition of spark
plug
Normal Insulator is dry
and burnt brown.
Over burned (too lean) Insulator is whit-
ish.
Oil fouled (too rich) Insulator is sooty
and wet.
Standard main jet #430
Standard pilot
air screw posi- tion 2-1/4 turns out

7-6
CHASSIS
CHANGE OF THE HEAT RANGE
OF SPARK PLUGS
Judging from the discoloration of
spark plugs, if they are found improp-
er, it can be corrected by the following
two methods; changing carburetor
settings and changing the heat range
of spark plug.
• In principle, it is advisable to first
use spark plugs of standard heat
range, and judging from the discol-
oration of spark plugs, adjust carbu-
retor settings.
• If the calibration No. of the main jet
must be changed by ±30, it is advis-
able to change the heat range of
spark plugs and newly select the
proper main jet.
• When checking the discoloration of
spark plugs, be sure to stop the en-
gine immediately after a run and
check.
• Avoid racing.
• When changing the heat range of
spark plugs, never attempt to
change it more than ±1 rank.
• When using a spark plug other than
standard, check its heat range
against the standard and check that
it is a resistance type.
• Note that even if the discoloration
seems proper, it may slightly vary
with the spark plug maker and oil in
use.
CHASSIS
SELECTION OF THE SECONDARY
REDUCTION RATIO (SPROCKET) ondary gear reduction ratio>
• It is generally said that the second-
ary gear ratio should be reduced for
a longer straight portion of a speed
course and should be increased for
a course with many corners. Actual-
ly, however, as the speed depends
on the ground condition of the day
of the race, be sure to run through
the circuit to set the machine suit-
able for the entire course.
• In actuality, it is very difficult to
achieve settings suitable for the en-
tire course and some settings may
be sacrificed. Thus, the settings
should be matched to the portion of
the course that has the greatest ef-
fect on the race result. In such a
case, run through the entire course
while making notes of lap times to
find the best balance; then, deter-
mine the secondary reduction ratio.
• If a course has a long straight por-
tion where a machine can run at
maximum speed, the machine is
generally set such that it can devel-
op its maximum revolutions toward
the end of the straight line, with care
taken to avoid the engine over-rev-
ving.
Riding technique varies from rider to
rider and the performance of a ma-
chine also vary from machine to ma-
chine. Therefore, do not imitate other
rider's settings from the beginning but
choose your own setting according to
the level of your riding technique.
DRIVE AND REAR WHEEL
SPROCKETS SETTING PARTSTIRE PRESSURE
Tire pressure should be adjust to suit
the road surface condition of the cir-
cuit.
• Under a rainy, muddy, sandy, or
slippery condition, the tire pressure
should be lower for a larger area of
contact with the road surface.
• Under a stony or hard road condi-
tion, the tire pressure should be
higher to prevent a flat tire.
FRONT FORK SETTING
The front fork setting should be made
depending on the rider's feeling of an
actual run and the circuit conditions.
The front fork setting includes the fol-
lowing three factors:
1. Setting of air spring characteris-
tics
• Change the fork oil amount.
2. Setting of spring preload
• Change the spring.
3. Setting of damping force
• Change the compression damp-
ing.
• Change the rebound damping.
The spring acts on the load and
the damping force acts on the
cushion travel speed.
CHANGE IN AMOUNT AND
CHARACTERISTICS OF FORK OIL
Damping characteristic near the final
stroke can be changed by changing
the fork oil amount. Standard spark
plugBR9EVX/NGK
(resistance
type)
Secondary reduction ratio =
Number of rear wheel sprocket
teeth/Number of drive sprocket
teeth
Standard second-
ary reduction ratio48/13 (3.692)
Part name Size Part number
Drive
sprocket
"1"
(STD) 13T 9383B-13218
Rear wheel
sprocket
"2"
47T 1C3-25447-00
(STD) 48T 1C3-25448-00
49T 1C3-25449-00
50T 1C3-25450-00
51T 1C3-25451-00
52T 1C3-25452-00
Standard tire pressure:
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2,
15 psi)
Extent of adjustment:
60–80 kPa (0.6–0.8 kgf/
cm
2, 9.0–12 psi)
Extent of adjustment:
100–120 kPa (1.0–1.2
kgf/cm
2, 15–18 psi)

7-7
CHASSIS
Adjust the oil amount in 5 cm3 (0.2
Imp oz, 0.2 US oz) increments or
decrements. Too small oil amount
causes the front fork to produce a
noise at full rebound or the rider to
feel some pressure on his hands
or body. Alternatively, too large oil
amount will cause the air spring
characteristics to have a tendency
to be stiffer with the consequent
deteriorated performance and
characteristics. Therefore, adjust
the front fork within the specified
range.
A. Air spring characteristics in
relation to oil amount change
B. Load
C. Stroke
1. Max. oil amount
2. Standard oil amount
3. Min. oil amount
SETTING OF SPRING AFTER
REPLACEMENT
As the front fork setting can be easily
affected by rear suspension, take
care so that the machine front and
rear are balanced (in position, etc.)
when setting the front fork.
1. Use of soft spring
• Change the rebound damping.
Turn out one or two clicks.
• Change the compression damp-
ing.
Turn in one or two clicks.
Generally a soft spring gives a soft
riding feeling. Rebound damping
tends to become stronger and the
front fork may sink deeply over a se-
ries of gaps.
2. Use of stiff spring
• Change the rebound damping.
Turn in one or two clicks.
• Change the compression damp-
ing.
Turn out one or two clicks.
Generally a stiff spring gives a stiff
riding feeling. Rebound damping
tends to become weaker, resulting in
lack of a sense of contact with the
road surface or in a vibrating handle-
bar.
FRONT FORK SETTING PARTS
• Front fork spring "1"
The I.D. mark (slits) "a" is proved on
the end of the spring.
REAR SUSPENSION SETTING
The rear suspension setting should
be made depending on the rider's
feeling of an actual run and the circuit
conditions.
The rear suspension setting includes
the following two factors:
1. Setting of spring preload
• Change the set length of the
spring.
• Change the spring.
2. Setting of damping force
• Change the rebound damping.
• Change the compression damp-
ing.
CHOOSING SET LENGTH
1. Place a stand or block under the
engine to put the rear wheel
above the floor, and measure the
length "a" between the rear wheel
axle center and the rear fender
holding bolt.
2. Remove the stand or block from
the engine and with a rider astride
the seat, measure the sunken
length "b" between the rear wheel
axle center and the rear fender
holding bolt.
3. Loosen the locknut "1" and make
adjustment by turning the spring
adjuster "2" to achieve the stan-
dard figure from the subtraction of
the length "b" from the length "a".
• If the machine is new and after it is
broken in, the same set length of
the spring may change because of
the initial fatigue, etc. of the spring.
Therefore, be sure to make reeval-
uation.
• If the standard figure cannot be
achieved by adjusting the spring
adjuster and changing the spring Standard oil amount:
333 cm
3 (11.72 Imp oz,
11.26 US oz)
*335 cm
3 (11.79 Imp oz,
11.33 US oz)
Extent of adjustment:
300–375 cm
3 (10.6–13.2
Imp oz, 10.1–12.7 US
oz)
* For EUROPE
TY
PESPRIN
G
RATESPRING
PART NUM-
BER (-23141-)I.D.
MA
RK
(slit
s)
SO
FT0.398 1C3-A1 |
0.408 1C3-B1 ||
ST
D0.418 1C3-P0 —
STI
FF0.428 1C3-D1 ||||
0.438 1C3-E1 |||||
0.449 1C3-F1 |-|
0.459 1C3-G1 |-||
0.469 1C3-H1 |-|||
0.479 1C3-J1 |-||||
Standard figure:
90–100 mm (3.5–3.9 in)