Page 389 of 580

{WARNING:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
.Clear away snow from around the base of
your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe.
.Check again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
.Open a window about 5 cm (two inches) on
the side of the vehicle that is away from the
wind to bring in fresh air.
.Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
.Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that circulates the air inside the vehicle and
set the fan speed to the highest setting.
See Climate Control System in the Index.(Continued)
WARNING: (Continued)
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 3‑44.
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking the exhaust.
Run the engine for short periods only as needed to
keep warm, but be careful.
To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine
off and close the window most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to
keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator pedal
slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle speed.
This keeps the battery charged to restart the vehicle
and to signal for help with the headlamps. Do this as
little as possible to save fuel.
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Page 390 of 580

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 6‑30.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle's traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{WARNING:
If the vehicle's tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be injured.
The vehicle can overheat, causing an engine
compartment fire or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
55 km/h (35 mph) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
see Tire Chains on page 7‑77.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. Turn off any traction or stability
system. Shift back and forth between R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes
a rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does
not get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to
be towed out. Recovery hooks can be used, if the
vehicle has them. If the vehicle does need to be towed
out, see Towing Your Vehicle on page 6‑39.
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Page 391 of 580
Recovery Hooks
{WARNING:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of force.
Always pull the vehicle straight out. Never pull on
the hooks at a sideways angle. The hooks could
break off and you or others could be injured from
the chain or cable snapping back.
Notice:Never use recovery hooks to tow the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it
would not be covered by warranty.
For vehicles with recovery hooks at the front of the
vehicle, you can use them if you are stuck off-road and
need to be pulled to some place where you can
continue driving.
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Page 392 of 580

Loading the Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight the
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all
occupants, cargo, and all nonfactory-installed
options. Two labels on the vehicle show how
much weight it was designed to carry, the
Tire and Loading Information label and the
Certification/Tire label.
{WARNING:
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts
on the vehicle can break, and it can change
the way the vehicle handles. These could
cause you to lose control and crash.
Also, overloading can shorten the life
of the vehicle.
Tire and Loading Information Label
Label Example
A vehicle specific Tire and Loading Information
label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar).
With the driver's door open, you will find the label
attached below the door lock post (striker).
The tire and loading information label shows the
number of occupant seating positions (A), and
the maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in
kilograms and pounds.
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Page 396 of 580

Certification/Tire Label
A vehicle specific Certification/Tire label is
attached to the rear edge of the driver's door.
The label shows the size of the vehicle's original
tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain
the gross weight capacity of the vehicle. This is
called Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).
The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all
occupants, fuel, and cargo.The Certification/Tire label also tells you the
maximum weights for the front and rear axles,
called Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). To find
out the actual loads on the front and rear axles,
you need to go to a weigh station and weigh the
vehicle. Your dealer/retailer can help you with this.
Be sure to spread out the load equally on both
sides of the center line.
Never exceed the GVWR for the vehicle, or the
GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
And, if you do have a heavy load, it should be
spread out.
{WARNING:
In the case of a sudden stop or collision,
things carried in the bed of your truck could
shift forward and come into the passenger
area, injuring you and others. If you put
things in the bed of your truck, you should
make sure they are properly secured.
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Page 397 of 580

{WARNING:
Do not load the vehicle any heavier than
the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR),
or either the maximum front or rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating (GAWR). If you do, parts
on the vehicle can break, and it can change
the way the vehicle handles. These could
cause you to lose control and crash.
Also, overloading can shorten the life of
the vehicle.
The vehicle warranty does not cover parts or
components that fail because of overloading.
The label will help you decide how much cargo
and installed equipment the truck can carry.
Using heavier suspension components to get
added durability might not change your weight
ratings. Ask your dealer/retailer to help you load
the vehicle the right way. If you put things inside the vehicle
—like
suitcases, tools, packages, or anything
else —they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you
have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash,
they will keep going.
{WARNING:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike
and injure people in a sudden stop or turn,
or in a crash.
.Put things in the cargo area of your
vehicle. Try to spread the weight evenly.
.Never stack heavier things, like
suitcases, inside the vehicle so that some
of them are above the tops of the seats.
.Do not leave an unsecured child restraint
in your vehicle.
.When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
.Do not leave a seat folded down unless
you need to.
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Page 402 of 580

Towing a Trailer
Do not tow a trailer during break‐in. SeeNew Vehicle
Break-Inon page 3‑30for more information.
{WARNING:
The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if
the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is
not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is
too heavy, the brakes may not work well —or
even at all. The driver and passengers could be
seriously injured. The vehicle may also be
damaged; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only
if all the steps in this section have been followed.
Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information
about towing a trailer with the vehicle. Notice:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the
vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by
the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly,
follow the advice in this section and see your
dealer/retailer for important information about
towing a trailer with the vehicle.
To identify the trailering capacity of the vehicle, read the
information in “Weight of the Trailer” that appears later
in this section.
Trailering is different than just driving the vehicle by
itself. Trailering means changes in handling,
acceleration, braking, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has to be used properly.
The following information has many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
pulling a trailer.
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Page 410 of 580

Driving with a Trailer
{WARNING:
When towing a trailer, exhaust gases may collect
at the rear of the vehicle and enter if the liftgate,
trunk/hatch, or rear-most window is open.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
To maximize safety when towing a trailer:
.Have the exhaust system inspected for leaks
and make necessary repairs before starting
a trip.
.Never drive with the liftgate, trunk/hatch,
or rear-most window open.
.Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
.Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that brings in only outside air and set the fan
speed to the highest setting. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide, see
Engine Exhaust on page 3‑44. Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. The combination you are driving is longer
and not as responsive as the vehicle itself. Get
acquainted with the handling and braking of the rig
before setting out for the open road.
Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors,
lamps, tires and mirrors. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start the combination moving and then apply
the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes work.
During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure and the lamps and any trailer brakes
still work.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer.
This can help to avoid heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer.
The combination will not accelerate as quickly and is
longer so it is necessary to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before returning to the lane.
6-50