2009 SATURN VUE HYBRID tires

{CAUTION
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or
with the ignition off is dangerous.
The brakes will have to do all the
work of slowing down and they
could get so hot that they would
not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash.
Always have the engine running
and the vehicle in gear when going
downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not
swing wide or cut across the
center of the road. Drive at
speeds that let you stay in your
own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something
could be in your lane (stalled car,
accident).
Pay attention to special road
signs (falling rocks area, winding
roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take
appropriate action.
Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow
or ice between the tires and the
road, creating less traction or grip.
Wet ice can occur at about 32°F
(0°C) when freezing rain begins to
fall, resulting in even less traction.
Avoid driving on wet ice or in
freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the
condition. Accelerate gently
so traction is not lost. Accelerating
too quickly causes the wheels
to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even
less traction.Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive
wheels will spin and polish the
surface under the tires even more.
TheAntilock Brake System (ABS)
on page 4-6improves vehicle
stability during hard stops on
slippery roads, but apply the brakes
sooner than when on dry pavement.
Allow greater following distance
on any slippery road and watch for
slippery spots. Icy patches can
occur on otherwise clear roads in
shaded areas. The surface of
a curve or an overpass can remain
icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped,
on slippery surfaces.
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Repeat this until help arrives but only
when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. Moving about to keep
warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to
arrive, now and then when you run
the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine runs
faster than the idle speed. This
keeps the battery charged to restart
the vehicle and to signal for help with
the headlamps. Do this as little as
possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in
Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the
wheels to free the vehicle when
stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow.
SeeRocking Your Vehicle to
Get It Out on page 4-17.If the vehicle has a traction system, it
can often help to free a stuck vehicle.
Refer to the vehicle’s traction system
in the Index. If stuck too severely for
the traction system to free the
vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at
high speed, they can explode, and
you or others could be injured. The
vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little
as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
For information about using tire
chains on the vehicle, seeTire
Chains on page 5-57.
Rocking Your Vehicle to
Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and
right to clear the area around
the front wheels. Turn off any
traction system. Shift back and forth
between R (Reverse) and a
forward gear, spinning the wheels
as little as possible. To prevent
transmission wear, wait until
the wheels stop spinning before
shifting gears. Release the
accelerator pedal while shifting, and
press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in
gear. Slowly spinning the wheels in
the forward and reverse directions
causes a rocking motion that
could free the vehicle. If that does
not get the vehicle out after a
few tries, it might need to be towed
out. If the vehicle does need to
be towed out, seeTowing Your
Vehicle on page 4-22.
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The Tire and Loading Information
label also shows the size of the
original equipment tires (C) and
the recommended cold tire
ination pressures (D). For more
information on tires and ination
seeTires on page 5-38and
Inflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-43.
There is also important loading
information on the vehicle
Certication/Tire label. It tells
you the Gross Vehicle Weight
Rating (GVWR) and the
Gross Axle Weight Rating
(GAWR) for the front and rear
axle. See “Certication/Tire
Label” later in this section.Steps for Determining Correct
Load Limit
1.
Locate the statement “The
combined weight of occupants
and cargo should never
exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs” on
your vehicle’s placard.
2.Determine the combined
weight of the driver and
passengers that will be riding
in your vehicle.
3.Subtract the combined weight
of the driver and passengers
from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4.The resulting gure equals
the available amount of
cargo and luggage load
capacity. For example, if
the “XXX” amount equals
1400 lbs and there will be
ve 150 lb passengers in
your vehicle, the amount
of available cargo and
luggage load capacity
is 650 lbs (1400−750
(5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
5.Determine the combined
weight of luggage and
cargo being loaded on the
vehicle. That weight may not
safely exceed the available
cargo and luggage load
capacity calculated in Step 4.
6.If your vehicle will be towing a
trailer, the load from your
trailer will be transferred to
your vehicle. Consult
this manual to determine how
this reduces the available
cargo and luggage load
capacity for your vehicle.
SeeTowing a Trailer on
page 4-26for important
information on towing a trailer,
towing safety rules, and
trailering tips.
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3. Shift the transmission to
N (Neutral).
4. Turn fog lamps and all
accessories off.
5. To prevent the battery from
draining while the vehicle is being
towed, remove the 2 amp IGN
SW fuse from the instrument
panel fuse block and store it in a
safe location. SeeInstrument
Panel Fuse Block on page 5-76
Notice:If the vehicle is towed
without performing each of
the steps listed under “Dinghy
Towing,” the automatic
transmission could be damaged.
Be sure to follow all steps of
the dinghy towing procedure prior
to and after towing the vehicle.Notice:If the vehicle has a
four-speed automatic
transmission, it can be dinghy
towed from the front for unlimited
miles at 65 mph (105 km/h). The
vehicle could be damaged If
65 mph (105 km/h) is exceeded
while towing the vehicle. The
repairs would not be covered by
the vehicle warranty. Never
exceed 65 mph (105 km/h) while
towing the vehicle.
Once the destination has been
reached:
1. Set the parking brake.
2. Shift the transmission to
P (Park).
3. Reinstall the 2 amp IGN SW fuse
to the instrument panel fuse
block.
4. Turn the ignition key to
LOCK/OFF and remove the key
from the ignition.Notice:Too much or too
little uid can damage the
transmission. Be sure that the
transmission uid is at the proper
level before towing with all four
wheels on the ground.
Notice:Do not tow a vehicle
with the front drive wheels on the
ground if one of the front tires
is a compact spare tire. Towing
with two different tire sizes on the
front of the vehicle can cause
severe damage to the
transmission.
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Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION
The driver can lose control when
pulling a trailer if the correct
equipment is not used or the
vehicle is not driven properly. For
example, if the trailer is too heavy,
the brakes may not work well — or
even at all. The driver and
passengers could be seriously
injured. The vehicle may also be
damaged; the resulting repairs
would not be covered by the
vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only
if all the steps in this section have
been followed. Ask your dealer/
retailer for advice and information
about towing a trailer with the
vehicle.Notice:Pulling a trailer
improperly can damage the
vehicle and result in costly
repairs not covered by the
vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer
correctly, follow the advice in
this section and see your
dealer/retailer for important
information about towing a trailer
with the vehicle.
The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is
equipped with the proper trailer
towing equipment.
To identify the trailering capacity of
the vehicle, read the information
in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section.
Trailering is different than just
driving the vehicle by itself.
Trailering means changes in
handling, acceleration, braking,
durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has to be
used properly.The following information has many
time-tested, important trailering
tips and safety rules. Many of these
are important for your safety and
that of your passengers. So please
read this section carefully before
pulling a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as
the engine, transmission, rear
axle, wheel assemblies and tires are
forced to work harder against the
drag of the added weight. The
engine is required to operate
at relatively higher speeds and
under greater loads, generating
extra heat. The trailer also
adds considerably to wind
resistance, increasing the pulling
requirements.
The vehicle has Trailer Sway
Control (TSC). See “Trailer Sway
Control (TSC)” inStabiliTrak
®
System on page 4-7for more
information.
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Pulling A Trailer
Here are some important points:
There are many different
laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with
trailering. Make sure the rig will
be legal, not only where you
live but also where you will be
driving. A good source for
this information can be state or
provincial police.
Do not tow a trailer at all during
the rst 500 miles (800 km) the
new vehicle is driven. The
engine, axle or other parts could
be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles
(800 km) that a trailer is towed,
do not drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and do not make starts
at full throttle. This helps the
engine and other parts of
the vehicle wear in at the heavier
loads.
Vehicles can tow in D (Drive).
Shift the transmission to a
lower gear if the transmission
shifts too often under heavy loads
and/or hilly conditions.
Obey speed limit restrictions
when towing a trailer. Do not
drive faster than the maximum
posted speed for trailers, or
no more than 55 mph (90 km/h),
to save wear on the vehicle’s
parts.
Do not tow a trailer when the
outside temperature is above
100°F (38°C).
Three important considerations have
to do with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The total weight on the vehicle’s
tires
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than
1,500 lbs (680 kg). But even
that can be too heavy.
It depends on how the rig is used.
For example, speed, altitude,
road grades, outside temperature
and how much the vehicle is used to
pull a trailer are all important. It
can depend on any special
equipment on the vehicle, and the
amount of tongue weight the vehicle
can carry. See “Weight of the
Trailer Tongue” later in this section
for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated
assuming only the driver is in the
tow vehicle and it has all the
required trailering equipment. The
weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in
the tow vehicle must be subtracted
from the maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for trailering
information or advice.
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The weight at the rear axle could be
850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs
(578 kg). Since the rear axle already
weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg), adding
1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to
3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very
close to, but within the limit for
RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to
trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
If the vehicle has many options and
there is a front seat passenger
and two rear seat passengers with
some luggage and gear in the
vehicle as well, 300 lbs (136 kg)
could be added to the front
axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to
the rear axle weight. The vehicle
now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs
(3 266 kg) and you might think 700
additional pounds (318 kg) should
be subtracted from the trailering
capacity to stay within GCWR limits.The maximum trailer would only be
7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go
further and think the tongue weight
should be limited to less than
1,000 lbs (454 kg) to avoid
exceeding GVWR. But the effect on
the rear axle must still be considered.
Because the rear axle now weighs
3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), 900 lbs
(408 kg) can be put on the rear axle
without exceeding RGAWR. The
effect of tongue weight is about
1.5 times the actual weight. Dividing
the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves
only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight that can be handled. Since
tongue weight is usually at least
10 percent of total loaded trailer
weight, expect that the largest trailer
the vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that the vehicle
does not exceed any of its
ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue
Weight. The only way to be sure it is
not exceeding any of these ratings is
to weigh the vehicle and trailer.Total Weight on the Vehicle’s
Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are
inated to the upper limit for cold
tires. These numbers can be found
on the Certication label or see
Loading the Vehicle on page 4-18
for more information. Make sure not
to go over the GVW limit for the
vehicle, or the GAWR, including the
weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct
hitch equipment. Crosswinds,
large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why
the right hitch is needed.
The rear bumper on the vehicle is
not intended for hitches. Do not
attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use
only a frame-mounted hitch that
does not attach to the bumper.
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CAUTION (Continued)
Adjust the Climate Control
system to a setting that
brings in only outside air and
set the fan speed to the
highest setting. See Climate
Control System in the Index.
For more information about
carbon monoxide, seeEngine
Exhaust on page 2-26.
Towing a trailer requires a certain
amount of experience. Get to know
the rig before setting out for the open
road. Get acquainted with the feel of
handling and braking with the added
weight of the trailer. And always keep
in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now longer and not as
responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
Before starting, check all trailer
hitch parts and attachments, safety
chains, electrical connectors,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustments.If the trailer has electric brakes,
start the vehicle and trailer moving
and then apply the trailer brake
controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This checks
the electrical connection at the
same time.
During the trip, check occasionally
to be sure that the load is secure,
and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind
the vehicle ahead as you would
when driving the vehicle without
a trailer. This can help to avoid
situations that require heavy
braking and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed
when towing a trailer. Because
the rig is longer, it is necessary
to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before returning
to the lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering
wheel with one hand. Then, to move
the trailer to the left, move that
hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to
the right. Always back up slowly
and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns
while trailering could cause
the trailer to come in contact with
the vehicle. The vehicle could
be damaged. Avoid making very
sharp turns while trailering.
When turning with a trailer, make
wider turns than normal. Do this
so the trailer will not strike soft
shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees
or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
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