2009 PONTIAC G6 engine

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or through mountains is different
than driving on at or rolling terrain. Tips for driving
in these conditions include:
Keep the vehicle serviced and in good shape.
Check all uid levels and brakes, tires, cooling
system, and transmission.
Going down steep or long hills, shift to a
lower gear.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, the brakes could get so
hot that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Shift down to let the engine
assist the brakes on a steep downhill slope.
{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in N (Neutral) or with the ignition
off is dangerous. The brakes will have to do all the
work of slowing down and they could get so hot
that they would not work well. You would then
have poor braking or even none going down a hill.
You could crash. Always have the engine running
and the vehicle in gear when going downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
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Blizzard Conditions
Being stuck in snow can be in a serious situation. Stay
with the vehicle unless there is help nearby. If possible,
use theRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-7.
To get help and keep everyone in the vehicle safe:
Turn on theHazard Warning Flashers on page 3-6.
Tie a red cloth to an outside mirror.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap engine exhaust under the vehicle.
This may cause exhaust gases to get inside.
Engine exhaust contains carbon monoxide (CO)
which cannot be seen or smelled. It can cause
unconsciousness and even death.
If the vehicle is stuck in the snow:
Clear away snow from around the base of
your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe.
Check again from time to time to be sure
snow does not collect there.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)

Open a window about two inches (5 cm) on
the side of the vehicle that is away from the
wind to bring in fresh air.
Fully open the air outlets on or under the
instrument panel.
Adjust the Climate Control system to a setting
that circulates the air inside the vehicle and
set the fan speed to the highest setting.
See Climate Control System in the Index.
For more information about carbon monoxide,
seeEngine Exhaust on page 2-35.
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas
to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might not
know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from
around the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking the exhaust.
Run the engine for short periods only as needed to
keep warm, but be careful.
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To save fuel, run the engine for only short periods as
needed to warm the vehicle and then shut the engine
off and close the window most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about to keep warm
also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle
speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart
the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps.
Do this as little as possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow.
SeeRocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-20.If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on the vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-84.
4-19

Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
To avoid damage, the disabled vehicle should be towed
with all four wheels off the ground. Consult your dealer/
retailer or a professional towing service if the disabled
vehicle must be towed. SeeRoadside Assistance
Program on page 7-7.
To tow the vehicle behind another vehicle for
recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing the vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as dinghy towing and dolly towing.
Dinghy towing is towing the vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground. Dolly towing is towing the vehicle with
two wheels on the ground and two wheels up on a device
known as a dolly.Here are some important things to consider before
recreational vehicle towing:
What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure to read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will the vehicle be towed? Some vehicles
have restrictions on how far and how long they
can tow.
Does the vehicle have the proper towing
equipment? See your dealer/retailer or trailering
professional for additional advice and equipment
recommendations.
Is the vehicle ready to be towed? Just as preparing
the vehicle for a long trip, make sure the vehicle is
prepared to be towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a
Long Trip on page 4-15.
Dinghy Towing From the Front
If the vehicle has the 3.9L V6 engine with the four-speed
automatic transmission, the vehicle cannot be dinghy
towed.
If the vehicle does not have the 3.9L V6 engine with a
four-speed automatic transmission, it can be dinghy
towed.
4-26

Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
The driver can lose control when pulling a trailer if
the correct equipment is not used or the vehicle is
not driven properly. For example, if the trailer is
too heavy, the brakes may not work well — or
even at all. The driver and passengers could be
seriously injured. The vehicle may also be
damaged; the resulting repairs would not be
covered by the vehicle warranty. Pull a trailer only
if all the steps in this section have been followed.
Ask your dealer/retailer for advice and information
about towing a trailer with the vehicle.
Notice:Pulling a trailer improperly can damage the
vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered
by the vehicle warranty. To pull a trailer correctly,
follow the advice in this section and see your
dealer/retailer for important information about
towing a trailer with the vehicle.The vehicle can tow a trailer if it is equipped with the
proper trailer towing equipment. To identify the trailering
capacity of the vehicle, read the information in “Weight of
the Trailer” that appears later in this section. Trailering is
different than just driving the vehicle by itself. Trailering
means changes in handling, acceleration, braking,
durability and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering
takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
The following information has many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for the safety of the driver and the
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
pulling a trailer.
Load-pulling components such as the engine,
transmission, axles, wheel assemblies and tires are
forced to work harder against the drag of the added
weight. The engine is required to operate at relatively
higher speeds and under greater loads, generating extra
heat. The trailer also adds considerably to wind
resistance, increasing the pulling requirements.
4-30

Pulling A Trailer
Here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
the rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you will be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 1,000 miles
(1600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine,
transmission or other parts could be damaged.
The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle’s
warranty.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer
is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do
not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine
and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier
loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed
for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to
save wear on the vehicle’s parts.
Do not tow a trailer when the outside temperature is
above 100°F (38°C).Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on the vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed,
altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how
much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all
important. It can depend on any special equipment on
the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle
can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in
this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for trailering information or
advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices.
SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on page 7-6for
more information.
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Total Weight on the Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure the vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. These numbers can be found on the
Certication/Tire label. SeeLoading the Vehicle on
page 4-20. Make sure not to go over the GVW limit for
the vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It is important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why the right hitch is needed. Here
are some rules to follow:
The rear bumper on the vehicle is not intended
for hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a frame-mounted
hitch that does not attach to the bumper.
Will any holes be made in the body of the vehicle
when the trailer hitch is installed? If there are, then
be sure to seal the holes later when the hitch is
removed. If the holes are not sealed, dirt, water, and
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from the exhaust can
get into the vehicle. SeeEngine Exhaust on
page 2-35in the Index for more information.
Safety Chains
Always attach chains between the vehicle and the trailer.
Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to
help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it
becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about
safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer’s
recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not
attach them to the bumper. Always leave just enough
slack so the rig can turn. Never allow safety chains to
drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Because the vehicle has antilock brakes, do not try to
tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system. If you
do, both brake systems will not work well, or at all.
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you will
be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Get to know the rig before setting out for the open road.
Get acquainted with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind
that the vehicle you are driving is now longer and not as
responsive as the vehicle is by itself.
4-33

When towing a trailer, the arrows on the instrument panel
ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned
out. For this reason you may think other drivers are
seeing the signal when they are not. It is important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving on Grades
Notice:Do not tow on steep continuous grades
exceeding 6 miles (9.6 km). Extended, higher
than normal engine and transmission temperatures
may result and damage the vehicle. Frequent
stops are very important to allow the engine and
transmission to cool.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforestarting
down a long or steep downgrade. If the transmission is
not shifted down, the brakes might have to be used so
much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce the
vehicle’s speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to reduce
the possibility of the engine and the transmission
overheating. If the engine does overheat, seeEngine
Overheating on page 5-37.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
Parking the vehicle on a hill with the trailer attached
can be dangerous. If something goes wrong, the rig
could start to move. People can be injured, and
both the vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
When possible, always park the rig on a at
surface.
If parking the rig on a hill:
1. Press the brake pedal, but do not shift into P (Park)
yet. Turn the wheels into the curb if facing downhill
or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
brake pedal until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the brake pedal. Then apply the parking
brake and shift the transmission into P (Park).
5. Release the brake pedal.
4-35