2009 PONTIAC G6 ECU

Pulling A Trailer
Here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
the rig will be legal, not only where you live but
also where you will be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Do not tow a trailer at all during the rst 1,000 miles
(1600 km) the new vehicle is driven. The engine,
transmission or other parts could be damaged.
The repairs would not be covered by the vehicle’s
warranty.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that a trailer
is towed, do not drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and do
not make starts at full throttle. This helps the engine
and other parts of the vehicle wear in at the heavier
loads.
Obey speed limit restrictions when towing a trailer.
Do not drive faster than the maximum posted speed
for trailers, or no more than 55 mph (90 km/h), to
save wear on the vehicle’s parts.
Do not tow a trailer when the outside temperature is
above 100°F (38°C).Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the total weight on the vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It should never weigh more than 1,000 lbs (454 kg).
But even that can be too heavy.
It depends on how the rig is used. For example, speed,
altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how
much the vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all
important. It can depend on any special equipment on
the vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle
can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in
this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
Ask your dealer/retailer for trailering information or
advice, or write us at our Customer Assistance Offices.
SeeCustomer Assistance Offices on page 7-6for
more information.
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Before starting, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connectors, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustments. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start the vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the
brakes are working. This checks the electrical connection
at the same time.
During the trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes
are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving the vehicle without a trailer. This
can help to avoid situations that require heavy braking
and sudden turns.
Passing
More passing distance is needed when towing a trailer.
Because the rig is longer, it is necessary to go much
farther beyond the passed vehicle before returning to
the lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. The vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so the trailer will not strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel ash whenever
signaling a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps also ash, telling other drivers the vehicle is
turning, changing lanes or stopping.
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Leaving After Parking on a Hill
1. Apply and hold the brake pedal while you:
start the engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
The vehicle needs service more often when pulling a
trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-4for more
information. Things that are especially important in traileroperation are automatic transmission uid, engine oil,
belts, cooling system and brake system. It is a good
idea to inspect these before and during the trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
The cooling system may temporarily overheat during
severe operating conditions. SeeEngine Overheating on
page 5-37.
Changing a Tire When Trailer Towing
If the vehicle gets a at tire while towing a trailer,
be sure to secure the trailer and disconnect it from the
vehicle before changing the tire.
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4. With the coolant surge tank pressure cap off, start
the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper
radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine
cooling fans.
By this time, the coolant level inside the coolant
surge tank might be lower. If the level is lower than
the FULL COLD mark, add more of the proper
mixture to the coolant surge tank until the level
reaches the FULL COLD mark.
5. Replace the pressure cap. Be sure the pressure
cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
Notice:If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,
coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur.
Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.
If coolant is needed, add the proper DEX-COOL
®
coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.
Pressure Cap
Notice:If the pressure cap is not tightly installed,
coolant loss and possible engine damage may occur.
Be sure the cap is properly and tightly secured.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-14for
more information on location.
Engine Overheating
The vehicle has an indicator to warn of engine
overheating.
There is an engine coolant temperature gage on the
instrument panel cluster. SeeEngine Coolant
Temperature Gage on page 3-37.
You may decide not to lift the hood when this warning
appears, but instead get service help right away.
SeeRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-7.
If you do decide to lift the hood, make sure the vehicle
is parked on a level surface.
Then check to see if the engine cooling fans are
running. If the engine is overheating, both fans should
be running. If they are not, do not continue to run
the engine and have the vehicle serviced.
Notice:Engine damage from running the engine
without coolant is not covered by the warranty.
Notice:If the engine catches re while driving with
no coolant, the vehicle can be badly damaged. The
costly repairs would not be covered by the vehicle
warranty. SeeOverheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode on page 5-39for information on
driving to a safe place in an emergency.
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6. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+)
terminal of the dead battery.
7. Do not let the other end touch metal. Connect it to
the positive (+) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote positive (+) terminal if the vehicle has one.8. Now connect the black negative (−) cable to the
negative (−) terminal of the good battery. Use a
remote negative (−) terminal if the vehicle has one.
Do not let the other end touch anything until the
next step. The other end of the negative (−) cable
does not go to the dead battery. It goes to a
heavy, unpainted metal engine part or to a remote
negative (−) terminal on the vehicle with the dead
battery.
9. Connect the other end of the negative (−) cable at
least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery,
but not near engine parts that move. The electrical
connection is just as good there, and the chance
of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
If the security light ashes, wait until the light
stops ashing.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run
the engine for a while.
11. Try to start the vehicle that had the dead battery.
If it will not start after a few tries, it probably needs
service.
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Headlamps, Front Turn Signal,
Sidemarker, and Parking Lamps
A. Front Sidemarker
B. Front Turn Signal/
Parking LampC. Low-Beam
Headlamp
D. High-Beam
HeadlampTo replace one of these bulbs:
1. Remove the two screws that secure the headlamp
assembly.
2. Remove the fasteners of the front facia by lifting
under them.
3. Pull the front facia back and then pull the headlamp
assembly out of the vehicle.
Assistance may be needed with this step to avoid
possible damage to the vehicle.
4. Pull the headlamp assembly away from the fender
to release the ball stud from the retainer in the
fender bracket.
5. Remove the bulb access cover by turning it
counterclockwise.
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6. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull out
the bulb assembly.
7. Disconnect the bulb socket from the wiring harness
for headlamps.
For the front turn signal/parking or sidemarker
bulbs, unclip the bulb from the socket.
8. Install a new bulb.
9. Turn the bulb access cover clockwise to reinstall it.
10. Push the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle
making sure to align the ball stud into its retainer.
11. Push the front fascia back into its original
location.
12. Reinstall the plastic push pins on the top of the
tire bar.
13. Reinstall the two screws that secure the
headlamp assembly.
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL) (Sedan)
To replace a center high-mounted stoplamp
(CHMSL) bulb:
1. Open the trunk. SeeTrunk on page 2-12.
2. Locate the center high-mounted stoplamp
(CHMSL) on the inside of the trunk lid.
3. Disconnect the wiring harness.4. Remove the cover by pressing the tabs at either
end with a tool.
5. Remove the bulb by turning it counterclockwise.
6. Turn the bulb clockwise to install it.
7. Reinstall the cover and reconnect the wiring
harness.
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp
(CHMSL) (Retractable Hardtop
and Coupe)
If your vehicle has this component and it needs
replacement, it is recommended that it be replaced
as a unit by your dealer/retailer.
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5. Raise the jack to
the height shown
and lock the wrench
onto the jack.
An outline of the jack
showing the proper height
is printed on the insulation
in the bottom of the spare
tire well.
6. Place the jack over the bolt (A) on the oor, making
sure it contacts the bolt. Thread the jack retainer
nut until it contacts the jack.
7. With the valve stem up, place the tire on the
compartment oor with the rear of the tire under the
trim panel. The tire may not lay completely at.
8. Line up the bolt with the wheel center.
9. With the yellow cap in place to prevent the wheel
from being scratched, screw the bolt extension
onto the bolt through the wheel center hole.
10. Remove the yellow cap from the bolt extension.
11. Secure the tire and wheel with the larger wing nut.
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