2009 HUMMER H3 battery

2. Press the rear axle locking
button with the vehicle moving
less than 16 mph (26 km/h).
The light in the button stops ashing
and remains illuminated when the
rear axle is locked.
Notice:If you try to lock the axle
while the vehicle is stuck and
the tires are spinning, the
vehicle’s drivetrain could be
damaged. The repairs would not
be covered by the vehicle
warranty. Always lock the axle
before attempting situations
and/or navigating terrain which
could possibly cause the vehicle
to become stuck.
The locking rear axle will be
disengaged when the wheel speed
is greater than 40 mph (64 km/h),
if the vehicle’s battery is low and/or
the transfer case is shifted out of
4LO Lock mode.Notice:If the vehicle’s axle is
locked while driving on pavement,
the drivetrain could be damaged.
Repairs would not be covered
by the vehicle warranty. Do
not use the locking axle on
pavement. If four-wheel drive is
needed when traveling on
pavement, use only 4HI.
Locking Front Axle
For vehicles with this feature, the
locking front axle, used with
the locking rear axle, can give the
vehicle additional traction when
traveling in off-road situations such
as mud, snow, sand, steep hills
and uneven terrain.
The button used to turn the locking
front axle on or off is located on
the instrument panel.Before the front axle can be locked,
the rear axle must be locked.
To lock the front and rear axles:
1. Place the transfer case in
the 4LO Lock mode. This is the
only mode which allows the
front and rear axles to lock. See
Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive
on page 2-24for more
information regarding the transfer
case and 4LO Lock mode.
2. Press the rear axle locking
button with the vehicle moving
less than 16 mph (26 km/h).
3. Wait for the light in the button
to stop ashing and remain
illuminated to show that the rear
axle is locked.
4. Press the front axle locking
button with the vehicle stopped
or moving less than 16 mph
(26 km/h).
Driving Your Vehicle 4-9

5. Wait for the light in the button
to stop ashing and remain
illuminated to show that the front
axle is locked.
Notice:If you try to lock the axle
while the vehicle is stuck and
the tires are spinning, the
vehicle’s drivetrain could be
damaged. The repairs would not
be covered by the vehicle
warranty. Always lock the axle
before attempting situations
and/or navigating terrain which
could possibly cause the vehicle
to become stuck.
Locking axles will be disengaged
when the wheel speed is greater
than 40 mph (64 km/h), if the
vehicle’s battery is low and/or the
transfer case is shifted out of
4LO Lock mode.Notice:If the vehicle’s axle is
locked while driving on pavement,
the drivetrain could be damaged.
Repairs would not be covered
by the vehicle warranty. Do
not use the locking axle on
pavement. If four-wheel drive is
needed when traveling on
pavement, use only 4HI.
Steering
Power Steering
If power steering assist is lost
because the engine stops or the
system is not functioning, the vehicle
can be steered but it will take
more effort.
Steering Tips
It is important to take curves at a
reasonable speed.
Traction in a curve depends on the
condition of the tires and the
road surface, the angle at which the
curve is banked, and vehicle
speed. While in a curve, speed is
the one factor that can be controlled.
If there is a need to reduce speed,
do it before entering the curve,
while the front wheels are straight.
Try to adjust the speed so you
can drive through the curve.
Maintain a reasonable, steady
speed. Wait to accelerate until out
of the curve, and then accelerate
gently into the straightaway.
4-10 Driving Your Vehicle

Run the engine for short periods
only as needed to keep warm,
but be careful.
To save fuel, run the engine for
only short periods as needed to
warm the vehicle and then shut the
engine off and close the window
most of the way to save heat.
Repeat this until help arrives
but only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. Moving
about to keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to
arrive, now and then when you run
the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine
runs faster than the idle speed. This
keeps the battery charged to
restart the vehicle and to signal for
help with the headlamps. Do
this as little as possible to save fuel.If Your Vehicle is
Stuck in Sand, Mud,
Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the
wheels to free the vehicle when
stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow.
SeeRocking Your Vehicle to Get It
Out on page 4-34.
If the vehicle has a traction system,
it can often help to free a stuck
vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s
traction system in the Index. If stuck
too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the
rocking method.
{CAUTION
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin
at high speed, they can explode,
and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment
re or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and
avoid going above 35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.
For information about using tire
chains on the vehicle, seeTire
Chains on page 5-65.
Driving Your Vehicle 4-33

Use the following procedure to tow
the vehicle:
1. Put the transmission in P (Park)
for an automatic transmission or
in 1 (First) for a manual
transmission.
2. Turn the engine off, but leave the
ignition in ACC/ACCESSORY.
3. Firmly set the parking brake.
4. Securely attach the vehicle being
towed to the tow vehicle.
{CAUTION
Shifting a full-time
four-wheel-drive vehicle’s
transfer case into N (Neutral)
can cause the vehicle to roll
even if the automatic transmission
is in P (Park) or the manual
transmission is in any gear. You
or others could be injured. Make
sure the parking brake is rmly
set before the transfer case is
shifted to N (Neutral).5. Shift the transfer case to
N (Neutral). SeeFull-Time
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-24
for the proper procedure to
select the N (Neutral) position for
the vehicle.
6. Release the parking brake only
after the vehicle being towed is
rmly attached to the tow vehicle.
7. Make sure the ignition is in
ACC/ACCESSORY.
When towing the vehicle for
extended periods of time, start the
vehicle as often as possible to
prevent battery drain. This should
only be done when the tow
vehicle is parked.
After towing, see “Shifting Out of
NEUTRAL” underFull-Time
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-24.
Dolly Towing
Notice:Dolly towing the vehicle
will damage drivetrain
components. Do not dolly tow the
vehicle.
The vehicle cannot be dolly towed.
If the vehicle must be towed
behind another vehicle, use the
dinghy towing procedure explained
previously.
Driving Your Vehicle 4-41

The trailer towing harness contains
the following seven trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn
Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake
If charging a remote (non-vehicle)
battery, turn on the headlamps
to boost the vehicle system voltage
to properly charge the battery.Four-Wire Harness Adapter
If towing a light-duty trailer with a
standard four-way, at pin
connector, an adapter is available
from your dealer/retailer.
Hold the adapter with the tab
pointing up.Connect the adapter to the
seven-pin universal heavy-duty
trailer connector attached to
the bracket on the hitch platform.
The ip cap on the vehicle’s harness
locks onto the tab and helps hold
the adapter in place. Plug the
four-way pin connector onto the
adapter.
4-52 Driving Your Vehicle

Service and
Appearance Care
Service
Service...............................5-3
Accessories and
Modications.....................5-3
California Proposition
65 Warning.......................5-4
California Perchlorate
Materials Requirements.....5-4
Doing Your Own
Service Work....................5-4
Adding Equipment to the
Outside of the Vehicle........5-5
Fuel
Fuel....................................5-5
Gasoline Octane.................5-5
Gasoline Specications.......5-5
California Fuel....................5-5
Additives.............................5-6
Fuels in Foreign
Countries..........................5-7
Filling the Tank...................5-7
Filling a Portable Fuel
Container..........................5-8
Checking Things Under
the Hood
Checking Things Under
the Hood..........................5-9
Hood Release.....................5-9
Engine Compartment
Overview.........................5-10
Engine Oil.........................5-13
Engine Oil Life System.....5-15
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. . .5-17
Automatic Transmission
Fluid................................5-18
Manual Transmission
Fluid................................5-20
Hydraulic Clutch................5-21
Cooling System.................5-22
Engine Coolant.................5-23
Engine Overheating...........5-27
Engine Fan Noise.............5-28
Power Steering Fluid.........5-29
Windshield Washer Fluid. . .5-30
Brakes..............................5-30
Battery..............................5-33
Jump Starting...................5-34
Rear Axle
Rear Axle.........................5-38
Four-Wheel Drive
Four-Wheel Drive..............5-38
Front Axle
Front Axle.........................5-39
Headlamp Aiming
Headlamp Aiming..............5-39
Bulb Replacement
Bulb Replacement.............5-41
Halogen Bulbs..................5-41
Headlamps........................5-41
Taillamps, Turn Signal,
Stoplamps and Back-up
Lamps (H3)
.....................5-42
Taillamps, Turn Signal,
Stoplamps and Back-up
Lamps (H3T)
...................5-42
License Plate Lamp..........5-43
Replacement Bulbs...........5-43
Service and Appearance Care 5-1

A. Windshield Washer Fluid
Reservoir. See “Adding Washer
Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-30.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank.
SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-23.
C.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on
page 5-17.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir.
SeePower Steering Fluid on
page 5-29.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid
Dipstick (If Equipped). See
“Checking the Fluid Level”
underAutomatic Transmission
Fluid on page 5-18.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When
to Add Engine Oil” under
Engine Oil on page 5-13.G. Radiator Pressure Cap.
SeeCooling System on
page 5-22.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal
(GND). SeeJump Starting on
page 5-34.
I. Engine Oil Dipstick. See
“Checking Engine Oil” under
Engine Oil on page 5-13.
J. Positive (+) Battery Terminal.
SeeJump Starting on
page 5-34.
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir.
See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-30.
L.Engine Compartment Fuse Block
on page 5-92.
M.Battery on page 5-33.
N. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir
(If Equipped). SeeHydraulic
Clutch on page 5-21.
Service and Appearance Care 5-11

A.Engine Air Cleaner/Filter on
page 5-17.
B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator
(If Equipped). SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-17.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid
Reservoir. See “Adding Washer
Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-30.
D. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank.
SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-23.
E. Automatic Transmission
Fluid Dipstick (If Equipped).
See “Checking the Fluid Level”
underAutomatic Transmission
Fluid on page 5-18.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See
“Checking Engine Oil” under
Engine Oil on page 5-13.G. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When
to Add Engine Oil” underEngine
Oil on page 5-13.
H. Brake Fluid Reservoir.
See “Brake Fluid” underBrakes
on page 5-30.
I.Battery on page 5-33.
J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir.
SeePower Steering Fluid on
page 5-29.
K.Engine Compartment Fuse Block
on page 5-92.
L. Radiator Pressure Cap.
SeeCooling System on
page 5-22.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check the
engine oil every time you get fuel.
In order to get an accurate reading,
the oil must be warm and the
vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle
is a yellow loop. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on
page 5-10for the location of the
engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the
oil several minutes to drain back
into the oil pan. If you do not
do this, the oil dipstick might not
show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it
with a paper towel or cloth,
then push it back in all the way.
Remove it again, keeping the
tip down, and check the level.
Service and Appearance Care 5-13