If Your Vehicle is Stuck in
Sand, Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the
wheels to free the vehicle when
stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow.
SeeRocking Your Vehicle to Get It
Out on page 4-16.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it
can often help to free a stuck vehicle.
Refer to the vehicle’s traction system
in the Index. If stuck too severely for
the traction system to free the
vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at
high speed, they can explode, and
you or others could be injured. The
vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little
as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the
speedometer.For information about using tire
chains on the vehicle, seeTire
Chains on page 5-55.
Rocking Your Vehicle to
Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right
to clear the area around the front
wheels. Turn off any traction or
stability system. Shift back and forth
between R (Reverse) and a forward
gear, spinning the wheels as little as
possible. To prevent transmission
wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears.
Release the accelerator pedal while
shifting, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the
transmission is in gear. Slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward
and reverse directions causes a
rocking motion that could free the
vehicle. If that does not get the
vehicle out after a few tries, it might
need to be towed out. If the vehicle
does need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-21.
Loading the Vehicle
It is very important to know how
much weight your vehicle can
carry. This weight is called the
vehicle capacity weight and
includes the weight of all
occupants, cargo, and all
nonfactory-installed options.
Two labels on your vehicle show
how much weight it may properly
carry, the Tire and Loading
Information label and the
Certi cation/Tire label.
4-16 Driving Your Vehicle
Passing
More passing distance is needed
when towing a trailer. Because the
rig is longer, it is necessary to go
much farther beyond the passed
vehicle before returning to the lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel
with one hand. Then, to move the
trailer to the left, move that hand to
the left. To move the trailer to the
right, move your hand to the right.
Always back up slowly and, if
possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns
while trailering could cause the
trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. The vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very
sharp turns while trailering.When turning with a trailer, make
wider turns than normal. Do this so
the trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other
objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a
Trailer
The arrows on the instrument panel
ash whenever signaling a turn or
lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps also ash, telling
other drivers the vehicle is turning,
changing lanes or stopping.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on
the instrument panel ash for turns
even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. For this reason you may
think other drivers are seeing the
signal when they are not. It is
important to check occasionally to be
sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Because of the added load of the
trailer, the vehicle’s engine may
overheat on hot days, when going up
a long or steep grade with a trailer. If
the engine coolant temperature gage
indicates overheating, turn off the air
conditioning to reduce engine load,
pull off the road and stop in a safe
spot. Let the engine run while
parked, preferably on level ground,
with the transmission in P (Park) for
a few minutes before turning the
engine off.
Reduce speed and shift to a lower
gearbeforestarting down a long or
steep downgrade. If the transmission
is not shifted down, the brakes
might have to be used so much that
they would get hot and no longer
work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down
and reduce the vehicle speed
to around 55 mph (88 km/h) to
reduce the possibility of the engine
and the transmission overheating.
Driving Your Vehicle 4-31
Basic Trailer Wiring
The trailer wiring harness, with a
seven-pin connector, is located at
the rear of the vehicle and is tied to
the vehicle’s frame. The harness
connector can be plugged into a
seven-pin universal heavy-duty
trailer connector available through
your dealer/retailer.
The seven-wire harness contains
the following trailer circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn
Signal
Brown: Taillamps
Black: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Red/Black: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake*
*The fuse for this circuit is installed
in the underhood electrical center,
but the wires are not connected.They should be connected by your
dealer/retailer or a quali ed
service center.
If the back-up lamp circuit is not
functional, contact your
dealer/retailer.
If a remote (non-vehicle) battery is
being charged, press the Tow/Haul
mode switch located on the center
console near the climate controls.
This will boost the vehicle system
voltage and properly charge the
battery. If the trailer is too light
for Tow/Haul mode, turn on the
headlamps (Non-HID only) as a
second way to boost the vehicle
system and charge the battery.
Electric Trailer Brake Control
Wiring Provisions
These wiring provisions for an
electric trailer brake controller
are included with the vehicle as
part of the trailer wiring package.The instrument panel contains blunt
cut wires behind the steering column
for the electric trailer brake controller.
The harness contains the following
wires:
Red/Black: Power Supply
White: Brake Switch Signal
Gray: Illumination
Dark Blue: Trailer Brake Signal
Black: Ground
The electric trailer brake controller
should be installed by your dealer/
retailer or a quali ed service center.
Engine Cooling When Trailer
Towing
The cooling system may temporarily
overheat during severe operating
conditions. SeeEngine Overheating
on page 5-22.
4-34 Driving Your Vehicle