2009 CHEVROLET KODIAK steering

Braking
SeeBrake System Warning Light on page 3-31.
Braking action involves perception time and reaction
time. Deciding to push the brake pedal is perception
time. Actually doing it is reaction time.
Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a
second. But that is only an average. It might be less
with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or
more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness,
coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol,
drugs and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a
second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels
66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an
emergency, so keeping enough space between
the vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement
or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet, dry
or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the
weight of the vehicle; the weight of the load; and the
amount of brake force applied.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is
a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool
between hard stops. The brakes will wear out much
faster with a lot of heavy braking. Keeping pace with thetraffic and allowing realistic following distances
eliminates a lot of unnecessary braking. That means
better braking and longer brake life.
If the engine ever stops while the vehicle is being driven,
brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If the brakes
are pumped, the pedal could get harder to push down.
If the engine stops, there will still be some power brake
assist but it will be used when the brake is applied. Once
the power assist is used up, it can take longer to stop and
the brake pedal will be harder to push.
Hydraulic Brake Systems
If the engine stops running, or if the primary brake system
stops working, your vehicle has a reserve power assist
system to help you slow down. Just slowly and steadily
apply the brake pedal until you can safely get off the road.
The pedal will seem harder to push down. Do not pump
the pedal; the system will not work well that way.
You might find that the steering wheel seems hard to
turn when you are turning and braking at the same time.
Also, the primary brake warning light might come on
and the warning tone might sound. This is normal
because the main hydraulic brake system and power
steering both use the power steering pump. If this ever
happens, let up on the brake pedal a little. When
you let up on the brake pedal in that situation, it lets the
steering get a little more help from the pump.
4-4

Antilock Brake System (ABS)
This vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an
advanced electronic braking system that helps prevent a
braking skid.
When the engine is started and the vehicle begins to
drive away, ABS checks itself. A momentary motor
or clicking noise might be heard while this test is going
on. This is normal.
If there is a problem with
ABS, this warning light
stays on. SeeAntilock
Brake System (ABS)
Warning Light on
page 3-33.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely.
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam
on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what
happens with ABS:
A computer senses that the wheels are slowing down.
If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer
will separately work the brakes at each wheel.ABS can change the brake pressure to each wheel, as
required, faster than any driver could. This can help
the driver steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As the brakes are applied, the computer keeps
receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking
pressure accordingly.
Remember: ABS does not change the time needed to get
a foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping
distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you,
there will not be enough time to apply the brakes if that
vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough
room up ahead to stop, even with ABS.
Using ABS
Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal
down firmly and let antilock work. The brakes might be
felt to pulsate, or the sound of air exhausting might
be heard if the vehicle has air brakes, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
ABS allows the driver to steer and brake at the same
time. In many emergencies, steering can help more than
even the very best braking.
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To turn the system on or
off, press the traction
control button located on
the instrument panel.
If the TCS button was used to turn the system off, the
light in the top of the button will come on and stay
on. TCS can be turned back on at any time by pressing
the button again; the light should go off.
Adding non-dealer/non-retailer accessories can affect
the vehicle’s performance. SeeAccessories and
Modifications on page 5-3for more information.Steering
Power Steering
If power steering assist is lost because the engine stops
or the system is not functioning, the vehicle can be
steered but it will take more effort.
On vehicles with hydraulic brakes, the power steering
and main hydraulic brake system both use the
power steering pump. SeeBraking on page 4-4.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
Traction in a curve depends on the condition of the tires
and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is
banked, and vehicle speed. While in a curve, speed is
the one factor that can be controlled.
If there is a need to reduce speed, do it before entering
the curve, while the front wheels are straight.
Try to adjust the speed so you can drive through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait
to accelerate until out of the curve, and then accelerate
gently into the straightaway.
4-9

Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective
than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find
a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls
out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between
parked cars and stops right in front of you. These
problems can be avoided by braking — if you can stop
in time. But sometimes you cannot stop in time
because there is no room. That is the time for evasive
action — steering around the problem.
The vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like
these. First apply the brakes. SeeBraking on page 4-4.
It is better to remove as much speed as possible
from a collision. Then steer around the problem, to the
left or right depending on the space available.
An emergency like this requires close attention and
a quick decision. If holding the steering wheel at the
recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, it can be turned
a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either
hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as
quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the
object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always
possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving
at all times and wear safety belts properly.
4-10

Off-Road Recovery
The vehicle’s right wheels can drop off the edge of a
road onto the shoulder while driving.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the
pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the
accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way,
steer so that the vehicle straddles the edge of the
pavement. Turn the steering wheel 3 to 5 inches,
8 to 13 cm, (about one-eighth turn) until the right front
tire contacts the pavement edge. Then turn the steering
wheel to go straight down the roadway.
Passing
Passing another vehicle on a two-lane road can be
dangerous. To reduce the risk of danger while passing:
•A vehicle like yours takes a longer time to reach
passing speed, so you will need a longer stretch
of clear road ahead than you would with a
passenger car.
•Look down the road, to the sides, and to crossroads
for situations that might affect a successful pass. If
in doubt, wait.
•Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings, and
lines that could indicate a turn or an intersection.
Never cross a solid or double-solid line on your side
of the lane.
•Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to
pass. Doing so can reduce your visibility.
•Wait your turn to pass a slow vehicle.
•When you are being passed, ease to the right.
4-11

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has
asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to steer
and constantly seek an escape route or area of less
danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to the vehicle’s three
control systems. In the braking skid, the wheels are not
rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed
or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose
cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much
throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
If the vehicle has the Traction Control System (TCS),
remember: It helps avoid only the acceleration skid.
SeeTraction Control System (TCS) on page 4-8.Ifthe
vehicle does not have this system, or if the system
is off, then an acceleration skid is best handled
by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, slow
down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is
important to slow down on slippery surfaces because
stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more
limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration, or
braking, including reducing vehicle speed by shifting to
a lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until
the vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow on
the road to make a mirrored surface — and slow down
when you have any doubt.
If the vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS),
remember: It helps avoid only the braking skid. If
the vehicle does not have ABS, then in a braking skid,
where the wheels are no longer rolling, release
enough pressure on the brakes to get the wheels rolling
again. This restores steering control. Push the brake
pedal down steadily when you have to stop suddenly. As
long as the wheels are rolling, you will have steering
control.
4-12

Winter Driving
Driving on Snow or Ice
Drive carefully when there is snow or ice between the
tires and the road, creating less traction or grip. Wet ice
can occur at about 32°F (0°C) when freezing rain
begins to fall, resulting in even less traction. Avoid
driving on wet ice or in freezing rain until roads can be
treated with salt or sand.
Drive with caution, whatever the condition. Accelerate
gently so traction is not lost. Accelerating too quickly
causes the wheels to spin and makes the surface under
the tires slick, so there is even less traction.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate too
fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.
For four-wheel-drive vehicles, shift into 4HI. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-30.If the vehicle has theTraction Control System (TCS) on
page 4-8, it improves the ability to accelerate on
slippery roads, but slow down and adjust your driving to
the road conditions. When driving through deep snow,
turn off the traction control system to help maintain
vehicle motion at lower speeds.
TheAntilock Brake System (ABS) on page 4-5improves
vehicle stability during hard stops on a slippery roads,
but apply the brakes sooner than when on dry
pavement.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road
and watch for slippery spots. Icy patches can occur on
otherwise clear roads in shaded areas. The surface
of a curve or an overpass can remain icy when
the surrounding roads are clear. Avoid sudden steering
maneuvers and braking while on ice.
Turn off cruise control, if equipped, on slippery surfaces.
4-17

Repeat this until help arrives but only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. Moving about
to keep warm also helps.
If it takes some time for help to arrive, now and then
when you run the engine, push the accelerator
pedal slightly so the engine runs faster than the idle
speed. This keeps the battery charged to restart
the vehicle and to signal for help with the headlamps.
Do this as little as possible to save fuel.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free the
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-19.
If the vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to the vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If stuck too severely for the traction
system to free the vehicle, turn the traction system off
and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high speed,
they can explode, and you or others could be
injured. The vehicle can overheat, causing an
engine compartment fire or other damage. Spin the
wheels as little as possible and avoid going above
35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
Turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the area
around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive vehicles,
shift into 4HI. Turn off any traction system. Shift back and
forth between R (Reverse) and a forward gear, or with a
manual transmission, between 1 (First) or 2 (Second) and
R (Reverse), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
To prevent transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop
spinning before shifting gears. Release the accelerator
pedal while shifting, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear. Slowly spinning
the wheels in the forward and reverse directions causes a
rocking motion that could free the vehicle. If that does not
get the vehicle out after a few tries, it might need to be
towed out. If the vehicle does need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-23.
4-19