2008 YAMAHA YZ450F checking oil

CONTENTS
CHAPTER 1
GENERAL INFOR-
MATION
DESCRIPTION ................. 1-1
MACHINE
IDENTIFICATION ............ 1-2
INCLUDED PARTS .......... 1-2
IMPORTANT
INFORMATION................. 1-2
CHECKING OF CONNEC-
TION ................................. 1-3
SPECIAL TOOLS ............. 1-4
CONTROL FUNCTIONS .. 1-8
STARTING AND
BREAK-IN ........................ 1-8
TORQUE-CHECK
POINTS........................... 1-11
CLEANING AND
STORAGE ...................... 1-12
CHAPTER 2
SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL SPECIFICA-
TIONS ............................... 2-1
MAINTENANCE SPECIFICA-
TIONS ............................... 2-3
TIGHTENING
TORQUES ...................... 2-10
LUBRICATION
DIAGRAMS .................... 2-16
CABLE ROUTING
DIAGRAM ....................... 2-18
CHAPTER 3
REGULAR INSPEC-
TION AND AD-
JUSTMENTS
MAINTENANCE
INTERVALS...................... 3-1PRE-OPERATION
INSPECTION AND MAINTE-
NANCE ............................. 3-4
ENGINE ............................ 3-5
CHASSIS ........................ 3-13
ELECTRICAL ................. 3-22
CHAPTER 4
ENGINE
SEAT, FUEL TANK AND
SIDE COVERS.................. 4-1
EXHAUST PIPE AND
SILENCER ........................ 4-3
RADIATOR ....................... 4-5
CARBURETOR................. 4-7
CAMSHAFTS.................. 4-14
CYLINDER HEAD........... 4-19
VALVES AND VALVE
SPRINGS ........................ 4-22
CYLINDER AND
PISTON ........................... 4-26
CLUTCH ......................... 4-29
OIL FILTER ELEMENT
AND WATER PUMP ....... 4-33
BALANCER .................... 4-37
OIL PUMP ....................... 4-39
KICK SHAFT AND SHIFT
SHAFT ............................ 4-42
CDI MAGNETO............... 4-47
ENGINE REMOVAL ....... 4-49
CRANKCASE AND CRANK-
SHAFT ............................ 4-53
TRANSMISSION, SHIFT
CAM AND SHIFT FORK. 4-59
CHAPTER 5
CHASSIS
FRONT WHEEL AND REAR
WHEEL ............................. 5-1
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR
BRAKE ............................. 5-6
FRONT FORK................. 5-16
HANDLEBAR ................. 5-24STEERING ......................5-28
SWINGARM ....................5-32
REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER ....................5-37
CHAPTER 6
ELECTRICAL
ELECTRICAL COMPO-
NENTS AND WIRING DIA-
GRAM ...............................6-1
IGNITION SYSTEM...........6-2
THROTTLE POSITION SEN-
SOR SYSTEM ...................6-5
CHAPTER 7
TUNING
ENGINE.............................7-1
CHASSIS ..........................7-6

1-3
CHECKING OF CONNECTION
and help assure that all parts are
correctly reinstalled.
5. Keep away from fire.
ALL REPLACEMENT PARTS
1. We recommend to use Yamaha
genuine parts for all replace-
ments. Use oil and/or grease rec-
ommended by Yamaha for
assembly and adjustment.
GASKETS, OIL SEALS AND O-
RINGS
1. All gaskets, oil seals, and O-rings
should be replaced when an en-
gine is overhauled. All gasket sur-
faces, oil seal lips, and O-rings
must be cleaned.
2. Properly oil all mating parts and
bearings during reassembly. Ap-
ply grease to the oil seal lips.
LOCK WASHERS/PLATES AND
COTTER PINS
1. All lock washers/plates "1" and
cotter pins must be replaced
when they are removed. Lock
tab(s) should be bent along the
bolt or nut flat(s) after the bolt or
nut has been properly tightened.
BEARINGS AND OIL SEALS
1. Install the bearing(s) "1" and oil
seal(s) "2" with their manufactur-
er's marks or numbers facing out-
ward. (In other words, the
stamped letters must be on the
side exposed to view.) When in-
stalling oil seal(s), apply a light
coating of lightweight lithium base
grease to the seal lip(s). Oil the
bearings liberally when installing.
Do not use compressed air to spin
the bearings dry. This causes dam-
age to the bearing surfaces.
CIRCLIPS
1. All circlips should be inspected
carefully before reassembly. Al-
ways replace piston pin clips after
one use. Replace distorted cir-
clips. When installing a circlip "1",
make sure that the sharp-edged
corner "2" is positioned opposite
to the thrust "3" it receives. See
the sectional view.
CHECKING OF
CONNECTION
Dealing with stains, rust, moisture,
etc. on the connector.
1. Disconnect:
• Connector
2. Dry each terminal with an air
blower.
3. Connect and disconnect the con-
nector two or three times.
4. Pull the lead to check that it will
not come off.
5. If the terminal comes off, bend up
the pin "1" and reinsert the termi-
nal into the connector.6. Connect:
• Connector
The two connectors "click" together.
7. Check for continuity with a tester.
• If there in no continuity, clean the
terminals.
• Be sure to perform the steps 1 to 7
listed above when checking the
wire harness.
• For a field remedy, use a contact re-
vitalizer available on the market.
• Use the tester on the connector as
shown.

1-5
SPECIAL TOOLS
Steering nut wrench
YU-33975, 90890-01403 This tool is used when tighten the
steering ring nut to specification.
Cap bolt wrench
YM-01500, 90890-01500This tool is used to loosen or tighten
the base valve.
Cap bolt ring wrench
YM-01501, 90890-01501This tool is used to loosen or tighten
the damper assembly.
Fork seal driver
YM-A0948, 90890-01502 This tool is used when install the fork
oil seal.
Pocket tester
YU-3112-C, 90890-03112 Use this tool to inspect the coil resis-
tance, output voltage and amper-
age.
Timing light
YM-33277-A, 90890-03141 This tool is necessary for checking
ignition timing.
Valve spring compressor
YM-4019, 90890-04019 This tool is needed to remove and
install the valve assemblies. Tool name/Part number How to use Illustration

3-5
ENGINE
ENGINE
CHECKING THE COOLANT LEVEL
Do not remove the radiator cap
"1", drain bolt and hoses when the
engine and radiator are hot. Scald-
ing hot fluid and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which
could cause serious injury. When
the engine has cooled, place a
thick towel over the radiator cap,
slowly rotate the cap counter-
clockwise to the detent. This pro-
cedure allows any residual
pressure to escape. When the
hissing sound has stopped, press
down on the cap while turning
counterclockwise and remove it.
Hard water or salt water is harmful
to the engine parts. You may use
distilled water, if you can't get soft
water.
1. Place the machine on a level
place, and hold it in an upright po-
sition.
2. Remove:
• Radiator cap
3. Check:
• Coolant level "a"
Coolant level low
→Add coolant.
1. Radiator
CHANGING THE COOLANT
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine is hot.
Take care so that coolant does not
splash on painted surfaces. If it
splashes, wash it away with water.
1. Place a container under the en-gine.
2. Remove:
• Engine guard "1"
• Coolant drain bolt "2"
3. Remove:
• Radiator cap
Drain the coolant completely.
4. Clean:
• Cooling system
Thoroughly flush the cooling sys-
tem with clean tap water.
5. Install:
• Copper washer
• Coolant drain bolt
• Engine guard
• Bolt (engine guard)
6. Fill:
• Radiator
•Engine
To specified level.
• Do not mix more than one type of
ethylene glycol antifreeze con-
taining corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engine.
• Do not use water containing im-
purities or oil.
Handling notes of coolant:
The coolant is harmful so it should be
handled with special care.
• When coolant splashes to your
eye.
Thoroughly wash your eye with
water and see your doctor.
• When coolant splashes to your
clothes.
Quickly wash it away with water
and then with soap.
• When coolant is swallowed.
Quickly make him vomit and take
him to a doctor.
7. Install:
• Radiator cap
Start the engine and warm it up
for a several minutes.
8. Check:
• Coolant level
Coolant level low
→Add coolant.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
1. Inspect:
• Seal (radiator cap) "1"
• Valve and valve seat "2"
Crack/damage
→Replace.
Exist fur deposits "3"
→Clean or
replace.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR CAP
OPENING PRESSURE
1. Attach:
• Radiator cap tester "1" and adapt-
er "2"
Coolant drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (engine guard):
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Recommended coolant:
High quality ethylene
glycol anti-freeze con-
taining anti-corrosion
for aluminum engine
Coolant "1" and water
(soft water) "2" mixing ra-
tio:
50%/50%
Coolant capacity:
0.99 L (0.87 Imp qt, 1.05
US qt)
Radiator cap tester:
YU-24460-01/90890-
01325
Radiator cap tester
adapter:
YU-33984/90890-01352

3-8
ENGINE
CHECKING THE ENGINE OIL
LEVEL
1. Stand the machine on a level sur-
face.
• When checking the oil level make
sure that the machine is upright.
• Place the machine on a suitable
stand.
Never remove the oil tank cap just
after high speed operation. The
heated oil could spurt out. causing
danger. Wait until the oil cools
down to approximately 70°C
(158°F).
2. Idle the engine more than 3 min-
utes while keeping the machine
upright. Then stop the engine and
inspect the oil level.
3. Remove:
• Oil tank cap 1
4. Inspect:
• Oil level
Check that the engine oil is above
the level mark "a" and that the oil
does not come out when the
check bolt "1" is removed.
Below the level mark "a"
→Add oil
through the filler cap hole until it is
above the level mark "a".
Oil comes out at the check bolt
→
Drain the oil until it stops coming
out.
When inspecting the oil level, do not
screw the oil level gauge into the oil
tank. Insert the gauge lightly.
(For USA and CDN)
• Do not add any chemical addi-
tives. Engine oil also lubricates
the clutch and additives could
cause clutch slippage.
• Do not allow foreign material to
enter the crankcase.
(Except for USA and CDN)
• Do not add any chemical addi-
tives or use oils with a grade of
CD "a" or higher.
• Do not use oils labeled "ENERGY
CONSERVING II" "b" or higher.
Engine oil also lubricates the
clutch and additives could cause
clutch slippage.• Do not allow foreign material to
enter the crankcase.
5. Start the engine and let it warm up
for several minutes.
When the oil tank is empty, never
start the engine.
6. Idle the engine more than 10 sec-
onds while keeping the machine
upright. Then stop the engine and
add the oil to the maximum level.
7. Install:
• Oil tank cap
CHANGING THE ENGINE OIL
1. Start the engine and let it warm up
for several minutes.
2. Stop the engine and place an oil
pan under the drain bolt.
3. Remove:
• Oil tank plug "1"
• Oil filler cap "2"
• Drain bolt (with gasket) "3"
• Oil filter drain bolt (O-ring) "4"
• Drain bolt (with gasket) "5"
Drain the crankcase and oil tank
of its oil.
4. If the oil filter is to be replaced dur-
ing this oil change, remove the fol-
lowing parts and reinstall them.
Recommended oil:
Yamalube 4,
SAE10W30 or
SAE20W40
Yamalube 4-R,
SAE10W50
API service SG type or
higher, JASO standard
MA
Recommended oil:
SAE10W30,
SAE10W40,
SAE15W40, SAE20W40
or SAE20W50
API service SG type or
higher, JASO standard
MA

3-9
ENGINE
Replacement steps:
a. Remove the oil filter element cov-
er "1" and oil filter element "2".
b. Check the O-rings "3", if cracked
or damaged, replace them with a
new one.
c. Install the oil filter element and oil
filter element cover.
5. Install:
• Gaskets
• Oil filter drain bolt
• Drain bolt (right crankcase)
• Drain bolt (left crankcase)
6. Fill:
• Engine oil7. Install:
• Oil filler cap
8. Inspect:
• Engine (for oil leaks)
• Oil level
Refer to "ENGINE OIL LEVEL IN-
SPECTION".
CHECKING THE OIL PRESSURE
1. Check:
• Oil pressure
Checking steps:
a. Slightly loosen the oil pressure
check bolt "1".
b. Start the engine and keep it idling
until oil starts to seep from the oil
pressure check bolt. If no oil
comes out after one minute, turn
the engine off so it will not seize.
c. Check oil passages and oil pump
for damage or leakage.
d. Start the engine after solving the
problem(s) and recheck the oil
pressure.
e. Tighten the oil pressure check
bolt.
ADJUSTING THE PILOT SCREW
1. Adjust:
• Pilot screw "1"
Adjustment steps:
To optimize the fuel flow at a smaller
throttle opening, each machine's pilot
screw has been individually set at the
factory. Before adjusting the pilot
screw, turn it in fully and count the
number of turns. Record this number
as the factory-set number of turns
out.
a. Turn in the pilot screw until it is
lightly seated.
b. Turn out the pilot screw by the
factory-set number of turns.
ADJUSTING THE ENGINE IDLING
SPEED
1. Start the engine and thoroughly
warm it up.
2. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Adjustment steps:
a. Adjust the pilot screw.
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE PI-
LOT SCREW" section.
b. Turn the throttle stop screw "1"
until the specified engine idling
speed.
Using a digital engine tachometer for
idle speed adjustment, detect the en-
gine idling speed by bringing the
sensing element "c" of the engine ta-
chometer close to the ignition coil "2".
Oil filter element cover:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Oil filter drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Drain bolt (right crank-
case):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Drain bolt (left crank-
case):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Oil quantity:
Periodic oil change:
0.95 L (0.84 Imp qt,
1.00 US qt)
With oil filter replace-
ment:
1.0 L (0.88 Imp qt, 1.06
US qt)
Total amount:
1.2 L (1.06 Imp qt, 1.27
US qt)
Oil pressure check bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Pilot screw (example):
1-1/2 turns out
Digital tachometer:
YU-39951-B/90890-
06760
To increase idle speed
→Turn the
throttle stop screw "1" in "a".
To decrease idle speed
→Turn
the throttle stop screw "1" out
"b".
Engine idling speed:
1,900–2,100 r/min

3-16
CHASSIS
CHECKING THE DRIVE CHAIN
1. Measure:
• Drive chain length (15 links) "a"
Out of specification
→Replace.
• While measuring the drive chain
length, push down on the drive
chain to increase its tension.
• Measure the length between drive
chain roller "1" and "16" as shown.
• Perform this measurement at two or
three different places.
2. Remove:
• Master link clip
•Joint "1"
• Drive chain "2"
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Place it in kerosene, and brush off
as much dirt as possible. Then re-
move the drive chain from the ker-
osene and dry the drive chain.
4. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and hold as illustrated.
Stiff
→Replace the drive chain.
5. Install:
• Drive chain "1"
•Joint "2"
• Master link clip "3"
Be sure to install the master link
clip to the direction as shown.
a. Turning direction
6. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification
→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".
c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.)
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
Too small drive chain slack will
overload the engine and other vital
parts; keep the slack within the
specified limits.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.
e. Tighten the locknuts.
Drive chain length (15
links):
: 242.9 mm
(9.563 in)
Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-30 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen
→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)

3-17
CHASSIS
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage
→
Repair or replace.
CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:• Air bleed screw
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
CHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage
→Replace.
Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Stiffer "a"
→Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b"
→Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
12 clicks out
* 11 clicks out
* For EUROPE
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b"
→Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
12 clicks out
* 7 clicks out
* For EUROPE