2008 YAMAHA WR 450F recommended oil

1-14
STARTING AND BREAK-IN
STARTING AND BREAK-IN
FUEL
Always use the recommended fuel as
stated below. Also, be sure to use
new gasoline the day of a race.
Use only unleaded gasoline. The
use of leaded gasoline will cause
severe damage to the engine inter-
nal parts such as valves, piston
rings, and exhaust system, etc.
If knocking or pinging occurs, use a
different brand of gasoline or higher
octane grade.
• For refueling, be sure to stop the
engine and use enough care not
to spill any fuel. Also be sure to
avoid refueling close to a fire.
• Refuel after the engine, exhaust
pipe, etc. have cooled off.
HANDLING NOTE
Never start or run the engine in a
closed area. The exhaust fumes
are poisonous; they can cause
loss of consciousness and death
in a very short time. Always oper-
ate the machine in a well-ventilated
area.
• The carburetor on this machine
has a built-in accelerator pump.
Therefore, when starting the en-
gine, do not operate the throttle
or the spark plug will foul.
• Unlike a two-stroke engine, this
engine cannot be kick started
when the throttle is open be-
cause the kickstarter may kick
back. Also, if the throttle is open
the air/fuel mixture may be too
lean for the engine to start.
• Before starting the machine, per-
form the checks in the pre-opera-
tion check list.
AIR FILTER MAINTENANCE
According to "CLEANING THE AIR
FILTER ELEMENT" section in the
CHAPTER 3, apply the foam-air-filter
oil or its equivalent to the element.
(Excess oil in the element may ad-
versely affect engine starting.)
STARTING A COLD ENGINE
This model is equipped with an igni-
tion circuit cut-off system. The engine
can be started under the following
conditions.
• When the transmission is in neutral.
• When the clutch is disengaged with
the transmission in any position.
However, it is recommended to shift
into neutral before starting the en-
gine.
1. Inspect the coolant level.
2. Turn the fuel cock to "ON".
3. Push on the main switch to "ON".
4. Shift the transmission into neutral.
5. Fully open the cold starter knob
"1".
6. Start the engine by pushing the
start switch or by kicking the kick-
starter crank.
If the engine fails to start by pushing
the start switch, release the switch,
wait a few seconds, and then try
again. Each starting attempt should
be as short as possible to preserve
the battery. Do not crank the engine
more than 10 seconds on any one at-
tempt. If the engine does not start
with the starter motor, try using the
kickstarter crank.
• If the starter motor will not turn
when pushing the start switch,
stop pushing it immediately and
kick start the engine in order to
avoid the load on the motor.
• Do not open the throttle while
kicking the kickstarter crank.
Otherwise, the kickstarter crank
may kick back.
7. Return the cold starter knob to its
original position and run the en-
gine at 3,000–5,000 r/min for 1 or
2 minutes.
Since this model is equipped with an
accelerator pump, if the engine is
raced (the throttle opened and
closed), the air/fuel mixture will be too
rich and the engine may stall. Also
unlike a two-stroke engine, this model
can idle.
Do not warm up the engine for ex-
tended periods of time.
STARTING A WARM ENGINE
Do not operate the cold starter knob
and throttle. Pull the hot starter lever
"1" and start the engine by pushing
the start switch or by kicking the kick-
starter crank forcefully with a firm
stroke. As soon as the engine starts,
Release the hot starter lever to close
the air passage.
Restarting an engine after a fall
Pull the hot starter lever and start the
engine. As soon as the engine starts,
Release the hot starter lever to close
the air passage. Recommended fuel:
Premium unleaded
gasoline only with a re-
search octane number
of 95 or higher.

3-9
ENGINE
CHECKING THE SILENCER AND
EXHAUST PIPE
1. Inspect:
• Gasket "1"
Damage→Replace.
INSTALLING THE SILENCER AND
EXHAUST PIPE
1. Install:
• Gasket
• Exhaust pipe "1"
• Nut (exhaust pipe) "2"
• Bolt (exhaust pipe) "3"
First, temporarily tighten the nut (ex-
haust pipe), then tighten the bolt (ex-
haust pipe) 13 Nm (1.3 m•kg, 9.4
ft•lb). After that, retighten the nut (ex-
haust pipe) 20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14 ft•lb)
and then the bolt (exhaust pipe) 20
Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14 ft•lb).
2. Install:
• Silencer clamp "1"
• Gasket "2"
• Silencer
• Washer "4"
• Bolt (silencer) "5"CHECKING THE COOLANT LEVEL
Do not remove the radiator cap
"1", drain bolt and hoses when the
engine and radiator are hot. Scald-
ing hot fluid and steam may be
blown out under pressure, which
could cause serious injury. When
the engine has cooled, place a
thick towel over the radiator cap,
slowly rotate the cap counter-
clockwise to the detent. This pro-
cedure allows any residual
pressure to escape. When the
hissing sound has stopped, press
down on the cap while turning
counterclockwise and remove it.
Hard water or salt water is harmful
to the engine parts. You may use
distilled water, if you can't get soft
water.
1. Place the machine on a level
place, and hold it in an upright po-
sition.
2. Remove:
• Radiator cap
3. Check:
• Coolant level "a"
Coolant level low→Add coolant.
1. Radiator
CHANGING THE COOLANT
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine is hot.
Take care so that coolant does not
splash on painted surfaces. If it
splashes, wash it away with water.
1. Place a container under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Seat
• Left side cover
3. Remove the catch tank hose from
the catch tank and drain the tank
of its coolant.
4. Remove:
• Coolant drain bolt "1"
5. Remove:
• Radiator cap
Drain the coolant completely.
6. Clean:
• Cooling system
Thoroughly flush the cooling sys-
tem with clean tap water.
7. Install:
• Copper washer
• Coolant drain bolt
8. Fill:
•Radiator
• Engine
To specified level.
• Do not mix more than one type of
ethylene glycol antifreeze con-
taining corrosion inhibitors for
aluminum engine.
• Do not use water containing im-
purities or oil.
Nut (exhaust pipe):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Bolt (exhaust pipe):
20 Nm (2.0 m•kg, 14
ft•lb)
Silencer clamp:
16 Nm (1.6 m•kg, 11
ft•lb)
Bolt (silencer):
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Coolant drain bolt:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Recommended coolant:
High quality ethylene
glycol anti-freeze con-
taining anti-corrosion
for aluminum engine
Coolant "1" and water
(soft water) "2" mixing ra-
tio:
50%/50%
Coolant capacity:
1.0 L (0.88 Imp qt, 1.06
US qt)

3-12
ENGINE
5. Inspect:
• Air filter element
Damage→Replace.
6. Apply:
• Foam-air-filter oil or equivalent oil
to the element
• Squeeze out the excess oil. Ele-
ment should be wet but not drip-
ping.
• Wipe off the oil left on the element
surface using a clean dry cloth. (Ex-
cess oil in the element may ad-
versely affect engine starting.)
7. Install:
• Air filter guide "1"
• Align the projection "a" on filter
guide with the hole "b" in air filter el-
ement.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the matching surface "c" on air
filter element.
8. Install:
• Air filter element "1"
Align the projection "a" on filter guide
with the hole "b" in air filter case.
9. Hook:
•Binder "1"
Hook the binder "1" so that it contacts
the filter guide projections "a".
CHECKING THE ENGINE OIL
LEVEL
1. Stand the machine on a level sur-
face.
• When checking the oil level make
sure that the machine is upright.
• Place the machine on a suitable
stand.
Never remove the oil tank cap just
after high speed operation. The
heated oil could spurt out. causing
danger. Wait until the oil cools
down to approximately 70°C
(158°F).
2. Idle the engine more than 3 min-
utes while keeping the machine
upright. Then stop the engine and
inspect the oil level.
3. Remove:
• Oil tank cap 1
4. Inspect:
• Oil level
Check that the engine oil is above
the level mark "a" and that the oil
does not come out when the
check bolt "1" is removed.
Below the level mark "a"→Add oil
through the filler cap hole until it is
above the level mark "a".
Oil comes out at the check bolt→
Drain the oil until it stops coming
out.
When inspecting the oil level, do not
screw the oil level gauge into the oil
tank. Insert the gauge lightly.
(For CDN)
• Do not add any chemical addi-
tives. Engine oil also lubricates
the clutch and additives could
cause clutch slippage.
• Do not allow foreign material to
enter the crankcase.
(Except for CDN)
Recommended oil:
Yamalube 4,
SAE10W30 or
SAE20W40
Yamalube 4-R,
SAE10W50
API service SG type or
higher, JASO standard
MA
Recommended oil:
SAE10W30,
SAE10W40,
SAE15W40, SAE20W40
or SAE20W50
API service SG type or
higher, JASO standard
MA

3-20
CHASSIS
3. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Refer to "CHECKING THE
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL" section.
4. Check:
• Brake pedal operation
A softy or spongy feeling→Bleed
brake system.
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion.
CHECKING THE REAR BRAKE
PAD INSULATOR
1. Remove:
• Brake pad
Refer to "CHECKING AND RE-
PLACING THE REAR BRAKE
PADS" section.
2. Inspect:
• Rear brake pad insulator "1"
Damage→Replace.
CHECKING THE BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL
1. Place the brake master cylinder
so that its top is in a horizontal po-
sition.
2. Inspect:
• Brake fluid level
Fluid at lower level→Fill up.
• Use only designated quality
brake fluid to avoid poor brake
performance.
• Refill with same type and brand
of brake fluid; mixing fluids
could result in poor brake perfor-
mance.
• Be sure that water or other con-
taminants do not enter master
cylinder when refilling.
• Clean up spilled fluid immediate-
ly to avoid erosion of painted
surfaces or plastic parts.
a. Lower level
A. Front
B. Rear
CHECKING THE SPROCKET
1. Inspect:
• Sprocket teeth "a"
Excessive wear→Replace.
Replace the drive sprocket, rear
wheel sprocket and drive chain as a
set.
CHECKING THE DRIVE CHAIN
1. Measure:
• Drive chain length (15 links) "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
• While measuring the drive chain
length, push down on the drive
chain to increase its tension.
• Measure the length between drive
chain roller "1" and "16" as shown.
• Perform this measurement at two or
three different places.
2. Remove:
• Drive chain "1"
Remove the drive chain using a drive
chain cutter "2".
3. Clean:
• Drive chain
Brush off as much dirt as possi-
ble. Then clean the drive chain
using the chain cleaner.
This machine has a drive chain
with small rubber O-rings "1" be-
tween the side plates. Steam
cleaning, high-pressure washes,
certain solvent and kerosene can
damage these O-rings.
4. Inspect:
• O-ring "1" (drive chain)
Damage→Replace the drive
chain.
•Roller "2"
• Side plate "3"
Damage/wear→Replace the
drive chain.
5. Check:
• Drive chain stiffness "a"
Clean and oil the drive chain and
hold as illustrated.
Stiff→Replace the drive chain.
6. Install:
• Chain joint "1"
• O-ring "2"
• Drive chain "3"
• Link plate "4" Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4
Drive chain length (15
links):
: 239.3 mm
(9.42 in)

3-31
ELECTRICAL
6. Install:
•Battery
• Battery band
7. Connect:
• Battery leads
(to the battery terminals)
First, connect the positive lead "1",
then the negative lead "2".
8. Check:
• Battery terminals
Dirt→Clean with a wire brush.
Loose connection→Connect
properly.
9. Lubricate:
• Battery terminal
10. Install:
• Seat
CHECKING THE FUSE
To avoid a short circuit, always set
the main switch to "OFF" when
checking or replacing a fuse.
1. Remove:
• Seat
• Fuse cover
2. Check:
• Continuity
Checking steps:
a. Remove the fuse "1".
b. Connect the pocket tester to the
fuse and check the continuity.
Set the pocket tester selector to " Ω×
1".
2. Reserve fuse
c. If the pocket tester indicates "∞",
replace the fuse.
3. Replace:
• Blown fuse
Replacement steps:
a. Set the main switch to "OFF".
b. Install a new fuse of the correct
amperage.
c. Set on the switches to verify if the
electrical circuit is operational.
d. If the fuse immediately blows
again, check the electrical circuit.
Never use a fuse with an amperage
rating other than that specified. Im-
provising or using a fuse with the
wrong amperage rating may cause
extensive damage to the electrical
system, cause the starting and ig-
nition systems to malfunction and
could possibly cause a fire.
4. Install:
• Fuse cover
•Seat
REPLACING THE HEADLIGHT
BULBS
1. Remove:
• Headlight
Refer to "REMOVING THE SEAT,
FUEL TANK AND SIDE COV-
ERS" section.2. Remove:
• Headlight bulb holder cover "1"
3. Remove:
• Headlight bulb holder "1"
Remove the headlight bulb holder by
pushing it in and turning it counter-
clockwise.
4. Remove:
• Headlight bulb
Since the headlight bulb gets ex-
tremely hot, keep flammable prod-
ucts and your hands away from the
bulb unit it has cooled down.
5. Install:
• Headlight bulb
Avoid touching the glass part of
the headlight bulb to keep it free
form oil, otherwise the transparen-
cy of the glass, the life of the bulb
and the luminous flux will be ad-
versely affected. If the headlight
bulb gets soiled, thoroughly clean
it with a cloth moistened with alco-
hol or lacquer thinner.
6. Install:
• Headlight bulb holder
7. Install:
• Headlight bulb holder cover
8. Install:
• Headlight
Refer to "REMOVING THE SEAT,
FUEL TANK AND SIDE COV-
ERS" section. Recommended lubricant:
Lithium soap base
grease
Pocket tester:
YU-3112-C/90890-
03112
Items Amperage
ratingQ'ty
Main fuse 10 A 1
Headlight:
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)

6-14
FRONT BRAKE AND REAR BRAKE
3. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Nut (brake hose holder) "2"
Align the top "a" of the brake hose
holder with the paint "b" of the brake
hose.
4. Pass the brake hose through the
front brake hose guides "1".
5. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that it
contacts the brake master cylinder
projection "a" and that its bent
portion "b" faces downward.
INSTALLING THE REAR BRAKE
HOSE
1. Install:
• Copper washer "1"
• Brake hose "2"
• Union bolt "3"
Always use new copper washers.
Install the brake hose so that its
pipe portion "a" directs as shown
and lightly touches the projection
"b" on the brake caliper.
2. Install:
• Brake hose holder "1"
• Screw (brake hose holder) "2"
After installing the brake hose
holders, make sure the brake hose
does not contact the spring (rear
shock absorber). If it does, correct
its twist.
FILLING THE BRAKE FLUID
1. Fill:
• Brake fluid
Until the fluid level reaches
"LOWER" level line "a".
• Use only the designated quality
brake fluid:
otherwise, the rubber seals may
deteriorate, causing leakage and
poor brake performance.
• Refill with the same type of brake
fluid;
mixing fluids may result in a
harmful chemical reaction and
lead to poor performance.
• Be careful that water does not
enter the master cylinder when
refilling. Water will significantly
lower the boiling point of the flu-
id and may result in vapor lock.
Brake fluid may erode painted sur-
faces or plastic parts. Always
clean up spilled fluid immediately.
A. Front
B. Rear
2. Air bleed:
• Brake system
Refer to "BLEEDING THE HY-
DRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM" sec-
tion in the CHAPTER 3. Nut (brake hose holder):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1 ft
•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Union bolt:
30 Nm (3.0 m•kg, 22
ft•lb)
Screw (brake hose hold-
er):
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Recommended brake flu-
id:
DOT #4

6-18
FRONT FORK
HANDLING NOTE
Support the machine securely so
there is no danger of it falling over.
The front fork requires careful atten-
tion. So it is recommended that the
front fork be maintained at the deal-
ers.
To prevent an accidental explosion
of air, the following instructions
should be observed:
• The front fork with a built-in pis-
ton rod has a very sophisticated
internal construction and is par-
ticularly sensitive to foreign ma-
terial. Use enough care not to
allow any foreign material to
come in when the oil is replaced
or when the front fork is disas-
sembled and reassembled.
• Before removing the cap bolts or
front forks, be sure to extract the
air from the air chamber com-
pletely.
REMOVING THE FRONT FORK
CAP BOLT
1. Remove:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
From the outer tube.
Before removing the front fork from
the machine, loosen the front fork cap
bolt.
2. Remove:
• Front fork cap bolt "1"
Hold the locknut "2" and remove the
front fork cap bolt.
REMOVING THE INNER TUBE
1. Remove:
• Dust seal "1"
• Stopper ring "2"
Using slotted-head screwdriver.
Take care not to scratch the inner
tube.
2. Remove:
• Inner tube "1"
Oil seal removal steps:
a. Push in slowly "a" the inner tube
just before it bottoms out and then
pull it back quickly "b".
b. Repeat this step until the inner
tube can be pulled out from the
outer tube.
REMOVING THE DAMPER ROD
1. Remove:
• Base valve "1"
• Damper rod "2"
Use a damper rod holder "3" to lock
the damper rod.
CHECKING THE DAMPER ROD
1. Inspect:
• Damper rod "1"
Bend/damage→Replace damper
rod.
The front fork with a built-in piston
rod has a very sophisticated inter-
nal construction and is particularly
sensitive to foreign material.
Use enough care not to allow any
foreign material to come in when
the oil is replaced or when the
front fork is disassembled and re-
assembled.
CHECKING THE BASE VALVE
1. Inspect:
• Valve assembly "1"
Wear/damage →Replace.
• O-ring "2"
Damage→ Replace.
CHECKING THE FORK SPRING
1. Measure:
• Fork spring free length "a"
Out of specification→Replace.
CHECKING THE INNER TUBE
1. Inspect:
• Inner tube surface "a"
Score marks→Repair or replace.
Use #1,000 grit wet sandpaper.
Damaged oil lock piece→Re-
place.
• Inner tube bends
Out of specification→Replace.
Use the dial gauge "1".
Damper rod holder:
YM-01494/90890-01494
Fork spring free length:
460 mm (18.1 in)
: 455 mm (17.9
in)
Inner tube bending limit:
0.2 mm (0.008 in)

6-20
FRONT FORK
8. Install:
• Outer tube "1"
To inner tube "2".
9. Install:
• Slide metal "1"
• Oil seal washer "2"
To outer tube slot.
Press the slide metal into the outer
tube with fork seal driver "3".
10. Install:
• Oil seal "1"
Press the oil seal into the outer tube
with fork seal driver "2".
11. Install:
• Stopper ring "1"
Fit the stopper ring correctly in the
groove in the outer tube.
12. Install:
• Dust seal "1"
Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
13. Check:
• Inner tube smooth movement
Tightness/binding/rough spots →
Repeat the steps 2 to 12.
14. Compress the front fork fully.
15. Fill:
• Front fork oil
Until outer tube top surface with
recommended fork oil "1".
• Be sure to use recommended
fork oil. If other oils are used,
they may have an excessively ad-
verse effect on the front fork per-
formance.
• Never allow foreign materials to
enter the front fork.
16. After filling, pump the damper rod
"1" slowly up and down more than
10 times to distribute the fork oil.17. Fill:
• Front fork oil
Until outer tube top surface with
recom-mended fork oil once
more.
18. After filling, pump the outer tube
"1" slowly up and down (about
200 mm (7.9 in) stroke) to distrib-
ute the fork oil once more.
Be careful not to excessive full stroke.
A stroke of 200 mm (7.9 in) or more
will cause air to enter. In this case, re-
peat the steps 15 to 18.
19. Wait ten minutes until the air bub-
bles have been removed from the
front fork, and the oil has dis-
pense evenly in system before
setting recommended oil level.
Fill with the fork oil up to the top end
of the outer tube, or the fork oil will not
spread over to every part of the front
forks, thus making it impossible to ob-
tain the correct level.
Be sure to fill with the fork oil up to the
top of the outer tube and bleed the
front forks.
20. Measure:
• Oil level (left and right) "a"
Out of specification→Adjust. Fork seal driver:
YM-A0948/90890-01502
Fork seal driver:
YM-A0948/90890-01502
Recommended oil:
Suspension oil "S1"
Standard oil level:
132 mm (5.20 in)
*125 mm (4.92 in)
Extent of adjustment:
95–150 mm (3.74–5.91
in)
From top of outer tube
with inner tube and
damper rod "1" fully
compressed without
spring.
* For AUS, NZ, ZA and EUROPE