3-17
CHASSIS
CLEANING THE SPARK
ARRESTER (For USA)
• Be sure the exhaust pipe and si-
lencer are cool before cleaning
the spark arrester.
• Do not start the engine when
cleaning the exhaust system.
1. Remove:
• Screw (silencer cap) "1"
2. Remove:
• Bolt (spark arrester) "1"
3. Remove:
• Tail pipe "1"
• Gasket (tail pipe) "2"
• Spark arrester "3"
Pull the spark arrester out of the
silencer.
• Gasket (spark arrester) "4"
4. Clean:
• Spark arrester
Tap the spark arrester lightly,
then use a wire brush to remove
any carbon deposits.
5. Install:
• Gasket (spark arrester)
• Spark arrester
Insert the spark arrester into the
silencer and align the bolt holes.
• Gasket (tail pipe)
• Bolt (spark arrester)6. Install:
• Silencer cap
First tighten the two screws "a" locat-
ed horizontally apart, and then tighten
the others.
CHASSIS
BLEEDING THE HYDRAULIC
BRAKE SYSTEM
Bleed the brake system if:
• The system has been disassem-
bled.
• A brake hose has been loosened
or removed.
• The brake fluid is very low.
• The brake operation is faulty.
A dangerous loss of braking per-
formance may occur if the brake
system is not properly bled.
1. Remove:
• Brake master cylinder cap
• Diaphragm
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Protector (rear brake)
2. Bleed:
•Brake fluid
Air bleeding steps:
a. Add proper brake fluid to the res-
ervoir.
b. Install the diaphragm. Be careful
not to spill any fluid or allow the
reservoir to overflow.
c. Connect the clear plastic tube "2"
tightly to the caliper bleed screw
"1".A. Front
B. Rear
d. Place the other end of the tube
into a container.
e. Slowly apply the brake lever or
pedal several times.
f. Pull the lever in or push down on
the pedal. Hold the lever or pedal
in position.
g. Loosen the bleed screw and allow
the lever or pedal to travel to-
wards its limit.
h. Tighten the bleed screw when the
lever or pedal limit has been
reached; then release the lever or
pedal.
i. Repeat steps (e) to (h) until of the
air bubbles have been removed
from the system.
If bleeding is difficult, it may be nec-
essary to let the brake fluid system
stabilize for a few hours. Repeat the
bleeding procedure when the tiny
bubbles in the system have disap-
peared.
j. Add brake fluid to the level line on
the reservoir.
Check the operation of the brake
after bleeding the brake system.
3. Install:
• Protector (rear brake)
• Reservoir float (front brake)
• Diaphragm
• Brake master cylinder cap
ADJUSTING THE FRONT BRAKE
1. Check:
• Brake lever position "a"
Bolt (spark arrester):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Silencer cap:
5 Nm (0.5 m•kg, 3.6
ft•lb)
Bleed screw:
6 Nm (0.6 m•kg, 4.3
ft•lb)
Brake lever position "a":
Standard posi-
tionExtent of ad-
justment
95 mm (3.74 in)76–97 mm
(2.99–3.82 in)
3-21
CHASSIS
When installing the drive chain, apply
the lithium soap base grease on the
chain joint and O-rings.
7. Install:
• Link plate
• Press the link plate onto the chain
joint using a drive chain riveter "5".
• Rivet the end of the chain joint us-
ing a drive chain riveter.
• After riveting the chain joint, make
sure its movement is smooth.
8. Lubricate:
• Drive chain
ADJUSTING THE DRIVE CHAIN
SLACK
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Check:
• Drive chain slack "a"
Above the seal guard installation
bolt.
Out of specification→Adjust.
Before checking and/or adjusting, ro-
tate the rear wheel through several
revolutions and check the slack sev-
eral times to find the tightest point.
Check and/or adjust the drive chain
slack with the rear wheel in this "tight
chain" position.
3. Adjust:
• Drive chain slack
Drive chain slack adjustment
steps:
a. Loosen the axle nut "1" and lock-
nuts "2".
b. Adjust the drive chain slack by
turning the adjusters "3".
c. Turn each adjuster exactly the
same amount to maintain correct
axle alignment. (There are marks
"a" on each side of the drive chain
puller alignment.)
Turn the adjuster so that the drive
chain is in line with the sprocket, as
viewed from the rear.
Too small drive chain slack will
overload the engine and other vital
parts; keep the slack within the
specified limits.
d. Tighten the axle nut while pushing
down the drive chain.e. Tighten the locknuts.
CHECKING THE FRONT FORK
1. Inspect:
• Front fork smooth action
Operate the front brake and
stroke the front fork.
Unsmooth action/oil leakage→
Repair or replace.
CLEANING THE FRONT FORK OIL
SEAL AND DUST SEAL
1. Remove:
•Protector
• Dust seal "1"
Use a thin screw driver, and be care-
ful not to damage the inner fork tube
and dust seal.
2. Clean:
• Dust seal "a"
• Oil seal "b"
• Clean the dust seal and oil seal af-
ter every run.
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the inner tube.
RELIEVING THE FRONT FORK
INTERNAL PRESSURE
If the front fork initial movement feels
stiff during a run, relieve the front fork
internal pressure.
Drive chain lubricant:
SAE 10W-30 motor oil
or suitable chain lubri-
cants
Drive chain slack:
48–58 mm (1.9–2.3 in)
To tighten→Turn the adjuster "3"
counterclockwise.
To loosen→Turn the adjuster "3"
clockwise and push wheel for-
ward.
Axle nut:
125 Nm (12.5 m•kg, 90
ft•lb)
Locknut:
19 Nm (1.9 m•kg, 13
ft•lb)
3-22
CHASSIS
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Remove the air bleed screw "1"
and release the internal pressure
from the front fork.
3. Install:
• Air bleed screw
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
REBOUND DAMPING FORCE
1. Adjust:
• Rebound damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
ADJUSTING THE FRONT FORK
COMPRESSION DAMPING FORCE
1. Remove:
• Rubber cap
2. Adjust:
• Compression damping force
By turning the adjuster "1".
• STANDARD POSITION:
This is the position which is back
by the specific number of clicks
from the fully turned-in position.
Do not force the adjuster past the
minimum or maximum extent of
adjustment. The adjuster may be
damaged.
Always adjust each front fork to
the same setting. Uneven adjust-
ment can cause poor handling and
loss of stability.
3. Install:
• Rubber capCHECKING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
1. Inspect:
• Swingarm smooth action
Abnormal noise/unsmooth action
→Grease the pivoting points or
repair the pivoting points.
Damage/oil leakage→Replace.
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER SPRING PRELOAD
1. Elevate the rear wheel by placing
the suitable stand under the en-
gine.
2. Remove:
• Rear frame
3. Loosen:
• Locknut "1"
4. Adjust:
• Spring preload
By turning the adjuster "2".
• Be sure to remove all dirt and mud
from around the locknut and adjust-
er before adjustment.
• The length of the spring (installed)
changes 1.5 mm (0.06 in) per turn
of the adjuster.
Air bleed screw:
1 Nm (0.1 m•kg, 0.7
ft•lb)
Stiffer "a" →Increase the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the re-
bound damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
8 clicks out
Stiffer "a" →Increase the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" in.)
Softer "b" →Decrease the com-
pression damping force. (Turn
the adjuster "1" out.)
Extent of adjustment:
Maximum Minimum
Fully turned in
position20 clicks out
(from maximum
position)
Standard position:
9 clicks out
Stiffer →Increase the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2" in.)
Softer→Decrease the spring pre-
load. (Turn the adjuster "2"
out.)
Spring length (installed)
"a":
Standard
lengthExtent of ad-
justment
252.5 mm (9.94
in)
* 251.5 mm
(9.90 in)238.5–258.5
mm (9.39–10.18
in)
* For EUROPE
3-24
CHASSIS
CHECKING THE TIRE PRESSURE
1. Measure:
• Tire pressure
Out of specification→Adjust.
• Check the tire while it is cold.
• Loose bead stoppers allow the tire
to slip off its position on the rim
when the tire pressure is low.
• A tilted tire valve stem indicates that
the tire slips off its position on the
rim.
• If the tire valve stem is found tilted,
the tire is considered to be slipping
off its position. Correct the tire posi-
tion.
CHECKING AND TIGHTENING THE
SPOKES
1. Inspect:
• Spokes "1"
Bend/damage→Replace.
Loose spoke→Retighten.
2. Tighten:
• Spokes
Be sure to retighten these spokes be-
fore and after break-in. After a prac-
tice or a race check spokes for
looseness.
CHECKING THE WHEELS
1. Inspect:
• Wheel runout
Elevate the wheel and turn it.
Abnormal runout→ Replace.
2. Inspect:
• Bearing free play
Exist play→Replace.
CHECKING AND ADJUSTING THE
STEERING HEAD
1. Elevate the front wheel by placing
a suitable stand under the engine.
2. Check:
• Steering stem
Grasp the bottom of the forks and
gently rock the fork assembly
back and forth.
Free play→Adjust steering head.
3. Check:
• Steering smooth action
Turn the handlebar lock to lock.
Unsmooth action→Adjust steer-
ing ring nut.
4. Adjust:
• Steering ring nut
Steering ring nut adjustment
steps:
a. Remove the headlight.
b. Remove the handlebar and upper
bracket.c. Loosen the steering ring nut "1"
using the steering nut wrench "2".
d. Tighten the steering ring nut "3"
using steering nut wrench "4".
• Apply the lithium soap base grease
on the thread of the steering stem.
• Set the torque wrench to the steer-
ing nut wrench so that they form a
right angle.
e. Loosen the steering ring nut one
turn.
f. Retighten the steering ring nut us-
ing the steering nut wrench.
Avoid over-tightening.
g. Check the steering stem by turn-
ing it lock to lock. If there is any
binding, remove the steering stem
assembly and inspect the steer-
ing bearings.
h. Install the washer "5", upper
bracket "6", washer "7", steering
stem nut "8", handlebar "9", han-
dlebar upper holder "10" and
headlight "11". Standard tire pressure:
100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm
2,
15 psi)
Spokes:
3 Nm (0.3 m•kg, 2.2
ft•lb)
Steering nut wrench:
YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering nut wrench:
YU-33975/90890-01403
Steering ring nut (initial
tightening):
38 Nm (3.8 m•kg, 27
ft•lb)
Steering ring nut (final
tightening):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
3-27
ELECTRICAL
ELECTRICAL
CHECKING THE SPARK PLUG
1. Remove:
• Spark plug
2. Inspect:
• Electrode "1"
Wear/damage→Replace.
• Insulator color "2"
Normal condition is a medium to
light tan color.
Distinctly different color→Check
the engine condition.
When the engine runs for many hours
at low speeds, the spark plug insula-
tor will become sooty, even if the en-
gine and carburetor are in good
operating condition.
3. Measure:
• Plug gap "a"
Use a wire gauge or thickness
gauge.
Out of specification→Regap.
4. Clean the plug with a spark plug
cleaner if necessary.
5. Tighten:
• Spark plug
• Before installing a spark plug, clean
the gasket surface and plug sur-
face.
• Finger-tighten "a" the spark plug
before torquing to specification "b".
CHECKING THE IGNITION TIMING
1. Remove:
• Timing mark accessing screw "1"
2. Attach:
• Timing light
• Inductive tachometer
To the ignition coil lead (orange
lead"1").
3. Adjust:
• Engine idling speed
Refer to "ADJUSTING THE EN-
GINE IDLING SPEED" section.
4. Check:
• Ignition timing
Visually check the stationary
pointer "a" is within the firing
range "b" on the rotor.
Incorrect firing range→Check ro-
tor and pickup assembly.
5. Install:
• Timing mark accessing screw
CHECKING AND CHARGING THE
BATTERY
Batteries generate explosive hy-
drogen gas and contain electrolyte
which is made of poisonous and
highly caustic sulfuric acid. There-
fore, always follow these preven-
tive measures:
• Wear protective eye gear when
handling or working near batter-
ies.• Charge batteries in a well-venti-
lated area.
• Keep batteries away from fire,
sparks or open flames (e.g.,
welding equipment, lighted ciga-
rettes).
• DO NOT SMOKE when charging
or handling batteries.
• KEEP BATTERIES AND ELEC-
TROLYTE OUT OF REACH OF
CHILDREN.
• Avoid bodily contact with elec-
trolyte as it can cause severe
burns or permanent eye injury.
FIRST AID IN CASE OF BODILY
CONTACT:
EXTERNAL
• Skin — Wash with water.
• Eyes — Flush with water for 15
minutes and get immediate med-
ical attention.
INTERNAL
• Drink large quantities of water or
milk followed with milk of magne-
sia, beaten egg or vegetable oil.
Get immediate medical attention.
Charging time, charging amperage
and charging voltage for an MF
battery are different from those of
conventional batteries. The MF
battery should be charged as ex-
plained in the charging method il-
lustrations. If the battery is
overcharged, the electrolyte level
will drop considerably. Therefore,
take special care when charging
the battery.
Since MF batteries are sealed, it is
not possible to check the charge state
of the battery by measuring the spe-
cific gravity of the electrolyte. There-
fore, the charge of the battery has to
be checked by measuring the voltage
at the battery terminals.
1. Remove:
• Seat
2. Disconnect:
• Battery leads
(from the battery terminals)
First, disconnect the negative bat-
tery lead "1", and then the positive
battery lead "2".
Spark plug gap:
0.7–0.8 mm (0.028–
0.031 in)
Spark plug:
13 Nm (1.3 m•kg, 9.4
ft•lb)
Timing light:
YM-33277-A/90890-
03141
4-1
ENGINE
TUNING
ENGINE
CARBURETOR SETTING
• The air/fuel mixture will vary de-
pending on atmospheric conditions.
Therefore, it is necessary to take
into consideration the air pressure,
ambient temperature, humidity,
etc., when adjusting the carburetor.
• Perform a test run to check for prop-
er engine performance (e.g., throt-
tle response) and spark plug(-s)
discoloration or fouling. Use these
readings to determine the best pos-
sible carburetor setting.
It is recommended to keep a record of
all carburetor settings and external
conditions (e.g., atmospheric condi-
tions, track/surface conditions, lap
times) to make future carburetor set-
ting easier.
• The carburetor is a part of the
fuel line. Therefore, be sure to in-
stall it in a wellventilated area,
away from flammable objects
and any sources of fire.
• Never look into the carburetor in-
take. Flames may shoot out from
the pipe if the engine backfires
while it is being started. Gasoline
may be discharged from the ac-
celerator pump nozzle when the
carburetor has been removed.
• The carburetor is extremely sen-
sitive to foreign matter (dirt,
sand, water, etc.). During instal-
lation, do not allow foreign mat-
ter to get into the carburetor.
• Always handle the carburetor
and its components carefully.
Even slight scratches, bends or
damage to carburetor parts may
prevent the carburetor from
functioning correctly. Carefully
perform all servicing with the ap-
propriate tools and without ap-
plying excessive force.
• When the engine is stopped or
when riding at no load, do not
open and close the throttle un-
necessarily. Otherwise, too
much fuel may be discharged,
starting may become difficult or
the engine may not run well.• After installing the carburetor,
check that the throttle operates
correctly and opens and closes
smoothly.
ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS AND
CARBURETOR SETTINGS
The air density (i.e., concentration of
oxygen in the air) determines the rich-
ness or leanness of the air/fuel mix-
ture.
• Higher temperature expands the air
with its resultant reduced density.
• Higher humidity reduces the
amount of oxygen in the air by so
much of the water vapor in the
same air.
• Lower atmospheric pressure (at a
high altitude) reduces the density of
the air.
EFFECT OF SETTING PARTS IN
RELATION TO THROTTLE VALVE
OPENING
A. Closed
B. Fully open
1. Pilot jet
2. Throttle valve cutaway
3. Jet needle
4. Main jetCONSTRUCTION OF
CARBURETOR AND SETTING
PARTS
The FLATCR carburetor has a prima-
ry main jet. This type of main jet is
perfect for racing machines since it
supplies an even flow of fuel, even at
full load. Use the main jet and the jet
needle to set the carburetor.
1. Jet needle
2. Pilot air jet
3. Needle jet
4. Main jet
5. Pilot jet
ADJUSTING THE MAIN JET
The richness of the air-fuel mixture at
full throttle can be set by changing the
main jet "1".
If the air-fuel mixture is too rich or too
lean, the engine power will drop, re-
sulting in poor acceleration.
Effects of changing the main jet
(reference)
A. Idle
B. Fully open
1. #165
2. #160
3. #162 Air
tem
p.Hu-
midi-
tyAir
pres-
sure
(alti-
tude)Mix-
tureSet-
ting
High HighLow
(high)Rich-
erLean-
er
Low LowHigh
(low)Lean-
erRich-
er
Standard main jet#162
* #160
* For EUROPE
4-4
ENGINE
EXAMPLES OF CARBURETOR SETTING DEPENDING ON SYMPTOM
* This should be taken simply for an example. It is necessary to set the carburetor while checking the operating conditions
of the engine.
Symptom Setting Checking
At full throttle
Hard breathing
Shearing noise
Whitish spark plug
↓
Lean mixtureIncrease main jet calibration no. (Gradual-
ly)Discoloration of spark plug→If tan color, it
is in good condition.
If cannot be corrected:
Clogged float valve seat
Clogged fuel hose
Clogged fuel cock
Check that the accelerator pump operates
smoothly.
At full throttle
Speed pick-up stops
Slow speed pick-up
Slow response
Sooty spark plug
↓
Rich mixtureDecrease main jet calibration no. (Gradual-
ly)Discoloration of spark plug→If tan color, it
is in good condition.
If cannot be corrected:
Clogged air filter
Fuel overflow from carburetor
Lean mixture Lower jet needle clip position. (1 groove
down)
The clip position is the jet needle groove on
which the clip is installed.
The positions are numbered from the top.
Check that the accelerator pump operates
smoothly. (except for rich mixture symp-
tom). Rich mixture Raise jet needle clip position. (1 groove up)
1/4–3/4 throttle
Hard breathing
Lack of speedLower jet needle clip position. (1 groove
down)
1/4–1/2 throttle
Slow speed pick-up
Poor accelerationRaise jet needle clip position. (1 groove up)
Closed to 1/4 throttle
Hard breathing
Speed downUse jet needle with a smaller diameter. Slow-speed-circuit passage
Clogged→Clean.
Overflow from carburetor
Closed to 1/4 throttle
Poor accelerationUse jet needle with a larger diameter.
Raise jet needle clip position. (1 groove up)
Poor response in the low to in-
termediate speedsRaise jet needle clip position.
If this has no effect, lower the jet needle clip
position.
Poor response when throttle is
opened quicklyCheck overall settings.
Use main jet with a lower calibration no.
Raise jet needle clip position. (1 groove up)
If these have no effect, use a main jet with
a higher calibration no. and lower the jet
needle clip position.Check air filter for fouling.
Check that the accelerator pump operates
smoothly.
Jet needleClip
Groove 7 Groove 6
Groove 5
Groove 4
Groove 3
Groove 2
Groove 1
Leaner
(Standard)
Richer
5-3
RADIATOR
HANDLING NOTE
Do not remove the radiator cap
when the engine and radiator are
hot. Scalding hot fluid and steam
may be blown out under pressure,
which could cause serious injury.
When the engine has cooled, open
the radiator cap by the following
procedure:
Place a thick rag, like a towel, over
the radiator cap, slowly rotate the
cap counterclockwise to the de-
tent. This procedure allows any re-
sidual pressure to escape. When
the hissing sound has stopped,
press down on the cap while turn-
ing counterclockwise and remove
it.
CHECKING THE RADIATOR
1. Inspect:
• Radiator core "1"
Obstruction→Blow out with com-
pressed air through rear of the ra-
diator.
Bent fin→Repair/replace.
INSTALLING THE RADIATOR
1. Install:
• Pipe 1 "1"
• Radiator hose 1 "2"
• Pipe 2 "3"
• Radiator hose 3 "4"
• Radiator hose 4 "5"2. Install:
• Radiator hose 2 "1"
• Left radiator "2"
3. Install:
• Catch tank hose "1"
• Right radiator "2"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
4. Install:
• Radiator guard "1"
First fit the inner hook portion "a" and
then the outer one "b" onto the radia-
tor.
5. Install:
• Catch tank "1"
• Bolt (catch tank) "2"
• Bolt (catch tank) "3"
• Catch tank hose "4"
• Catch tank breather hose "5"
Refer to "CABLE ROUTING DIA-
GRAM" section in the CHAPTER
2.
Pipe 1:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 1:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Pipe 2:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 3:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 4:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Radiator hose 2:
2 Nm (0.2 m•kg, 1.4
ft•lb)
Left radiator:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Right radiator:
10 Nm (1.0 m•kg, 7.2
ft•lb)
Bolt (catch tank):
7 Nm (0.7 m•kg, 5.1
ft•lb)
Bolt (catch tank):
16 Nm (1.6 m•kg, 11
ft•lb)