2008 GMC CANYON start

Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your
vehicle downstream and you and your
passengers could drown. If it is only shallow
water, it can still wash away the ground from
under your tires, and you could lose traction
and roll the vehicle over. Do not drive through
rushing water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles,
or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you probably will not get
through. Also, water that deep can damage the axle and
other vehicle parts.If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and
your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you
get the tailpipe under water. And, as long as the tailpipe
is under water, you will never be able to start the
engine. When you go through water, remember that
when the brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-24
for more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due
to off-road use. Refer to the maintenance schedule for
additional information.
4-23

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see it
or smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base
of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking
the exhaust pipe. And check around again from
time to time to be sure snow does not collect
there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that is away from the wind. This will help
keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster
than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly. This
uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the
battery charged. You will need a well-charged battery to
restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with
the headlamps. Let the heater run for a while.
4-29

Then, shut the engine off and close the window
almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the
engine again and repeat this only when you feel
really uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little
as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can.
To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle
and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour
or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-30.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe
for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-78.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. For four-wheel drive
vehicles, shift into 4HI. For vehicles with traction control,
turn the system off. SeeTraction Control System (TCS)
on page 4-5. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, or with a manual
transmission, between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and
REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as possible.
4-30

4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28for more
information.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the tow vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK.
If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for
six weeks or more, remove the battery cable
from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to
prevent your battery from draining while towing.
After towing see “Shifting Out of NEUTRAL” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28.
Dolly Towing
Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the
Ground)
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle
with the rear wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with
the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed. To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive
vehicle, you must tow the vehicle with the rear wheels
on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the
Ground)” later in this section for more information.
4-40

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to dolly tow your vehicle
from the front:
1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly.
2. Firmly set the parking brake. SeeParking Brake on
page 2-32for more information.
3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a
manual transmission in FIRST (1).
4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to attach
and secure the vehicle being towed to the dolly and
then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28for more
information.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the tow vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK.
If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for
six weeks or more, remove the battery cable
from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to
prevent your battery from draining while towing.
After towing see “Shifting Out of NEUTRAL” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28.
4-41

Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the Ground)
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from
the rear:
1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly.
2. Firmly set the parking brake. SeeParking Brake on
page 2-32for more information.3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a
manual transmission in FIRST (1).
4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to
attach and secure the vehicle being towed to
the dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow
vehicle. Make sure the wheels are straight before
towing.
For manual transmission vehicles, make sure the
wheels are straight before proceeding to the
next steps. On automatic transmission vehicles, use
an adequate clamping device to ensure that the
front wheels are locked into the straight position.
5. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the tow vehicle.
6. Turn the ignition to LOCK.
If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for
six weeks or more, remove the battery cable
from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to
prevent your battery from draining while towing.
4-42

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle from
the rear:
1. Drive the vehicle onto the dolly.
2. Firmly set the parking brake. SeeParking Brake on
page 2-32for more information.
3. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a
manual transmission in FIRST (1).
4. Follow the dolly manufacturer’s instructions to
attach and secure the vehicle being towed to the
dolly and then the loaded dolly to the tow vehicle.
For manual transmission vehicles, make sure the
wheels are straight before proceeding to the nextsteps. On automatic transmission vehicles, use an
adequate clamping device to ensure that the front
wheels are locked into the straight position.
{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer
case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to
roll even if the transmission is in PARK (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is
in gear, for a manual transmission. You or
others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is rmly set before you shift the transfer
case to NEUTRAL.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL. See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28for more
information.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the tow vehicle.
7. Turn the ignition to LOCK.
If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for
six weeks or more, remove the battery cable
from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to
prevent your battery from draining while towing.
After towing, see “Shifting Out of NEUTRAL” under
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-28.
4-43

If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. You can ask a hitch
dealer/retailer about sway controls.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3)
or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the
transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy
loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual
transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s
better not to use the highest gear.Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For
example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull
a trailer are all important. It can also depend on any
special equipment that you have on your vehicle,
and the amount of tongue weight the vehicle can carry.
See “Weight of the Trailer Tongue” later in this
section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming only the
driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all the required
trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional
equipment, passengers and cargo in the tow vehicle
must be subtracted from the maximum trailer weight.
4-45