2008 CHEVROLET TRAIL BLAZER tires

{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. The brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down and they
could get so hot that they would not work well.
You would then have poor braking or even
none going down a hill. You could crash.
Always have the engine running and your
vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
SeeOff-Road Driving (Except SS) on page 4-14for
information about driving off-road.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply
of windshield washer uid, a rag, some winter outer
clothing, a small shovel, a ashlight, a red cloth, and
reective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving
under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a
piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags to help
provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items
in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-58.
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Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction. If
you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and
polish the surface under the tires even more.
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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all
the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and
repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from
the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel
as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out
of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help to
free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too severe
for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn the
traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-82.
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Tire and Loading Information Label
A vehicle specic Tire and Loading Information
label is attached to the center pillar (B-pillar). With
the driver’s door open, you will nd the label
attached below the door lock post (striker). The
Tire and Loading Information label shows the
number of occupant seating positions (A), and the
maximum vehicle capacity weight (B) in kilograms
and pounds.
The Tire and Loading Information label also shows
the size of the original equipment tires (C) and
the recommended cold tire ination pressures (D).For more information on tires and ination seeTires
on page 5-58andInflation - Tire Pressure on
page 5-65.
There is also important loading information on the
vehicle Certication/Tire label. It tells you the
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and
the Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR) for the
front and rear axle. See “Certication/Tire Label”
later in this section.
Steps for Determining Correct Load Limit
1.Locate the statement “The combined weight of
occupants and cargo should never exceed
XXX kg or XXX lbs” on your vehicle’s placard.
2.Determine the combined weight of the driver
and passengers that will be riding in your
vehicle.
3.Subtract the combined weight of the driver
and passengers from XXX kg or XXX lbs.
4.The resulting gure equals the available
amount of cargo and luggage load capacity.
For example, if the “XXX” amount equals
1,400 lbs and there will be ve 150 lb
passengers in your vehicle, the amount of
available cargo and luggage load capacity is
650 lbs (1,400−750 (5 x 150) = 650 lbs).
Label Example
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Refer to your vehicle’s Tire and Loading Information
label for specic information about your vehicle’s
capacity weight and seating positions. The
combined weight of the driver, passengers, and
cargo should never exceed your vehicle’s capacity
weight.
Your vehicle may have an electronically controlled
air suspension system that automatically keeps
your vehicle level as you load and unload your
vehicle. SeeElectronically Controlled Air
Suspension System on page 4-47for additional
information.Certication/Tire Label
A vehicle specic Certication/Tire label is found on
the rear edge of the driver’s door. The label shows
the size of your vehicle’s original tires and the
ination pressures needed to obtain the gross
weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). The GVWR
includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants,
fuel, cargo, and trailer tongue weight, if pulling a
trailer.
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To identify the trailering capacity of your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section.
Trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by
itself. Trailering means changes in acceleration, braking,
handling, durability and fuel economy. Successful,
safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be
used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches” later
in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a
lower gear selection if the transmission shifts
too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly
conditions).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
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Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg),
adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the total to 3,975 lbs
(1 803 kg). This is very close to, but within the limit for
RGAWR as well. The vehicle is set to trailer up to
8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
But let’s say your specic vehicle is equipped with
some of the latest options and you have a front seat
passenger and two rear seat passengers with some
luggage and gear in the vehicle as well. You may add
300 lbs (136 kg) to the front axle weight and 400 lbs
(181 kg) to the rear axle weight. Your vehicle now
weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you may
think that you should subtract 700 additional pounds
(318 kg) from your trailering capacity to stay within
GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer would only be
7,800 lbs (3 538 kg). You may go further and think you
must limit tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to
avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still consider the
effect on the rear axle. Because your rear axle nowweighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you can only put 900 lbs
(408 kg) on the rear axle without exceeding RGAWR. The
effect of tongue weight is about 1.5 times the actual
weight. Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of tongue
weight. Since tongue weight is usually at least 10 percent
of total loaded trailer weight, you can expect that the
largest trailer your vehicle can properly handle is
6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle does not
exceed any of its ratings — GCWR, GVWR, RGAWR,
Maximum Trailer Rating or Tongue Weight. The
only way to be sure you are not exceeding any of these
ratings is to weigh your vehicle and trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s door.
SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-35for more
information. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW
limit for your vehicle, or the GAWR, including the weight
of the trailer tongue. If you use a weight distributing
hitch, make sure you don’t go over the rear axle
limit before you apply the weight distribution spring bars.
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And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connection, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the
trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers you’re
about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are
burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are
seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to
check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
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