2008 CHEVROLET KODIAK warning light

Air Pressure Gage
If your vehicle has air
brakes, the air pressure
gage is located above the
switchbank in the center
of the instrument panel.
This gage shows the air pressure for both your front
and rear brake systems.
If the needle on the gage indicates that the air pressure
is below 60 to 75 psi (415 to 517 kPa), the low air
warning light will come on. An alarm will also sound if
this happens.
The bottom yellow pointer shows the pressure available
for the front secondary system, while the top white
pointer shows pressure for the rear primary system.
There should be no more than 4 psi (28 kPa) difference
showing between the systems.
Don’t drive until both pointers are showing at least
120 psi (827 kPa), so you’ll have enough air if you need
to apply your brakes.
Hourmeter Gage
To access the engine hourmeter gage, press the trip
odometer button three times.
The instrument panel cluster displays the accumulated
engine run time hours using the reconfigurable
odometer display. The engine run time hours displays
only when the ignition is in the LOCK/OFF or
ACC/ACCESSORY position and the trip reset button is
pressed for about four seconds. The value of the
accumulated hours does not change when the battery
is disconnected.
The hourmeter resets to 0.0 when 10,000 hours are
accumulated. The instrument panel cluster begins
to reaccumulate the engine run time hours from
0.0 hours.
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Braking
SeeBrake System Warning Light on page 3-32.
Braking action involves perception time and reaction
time. First, you have to decide to push on the brake
pedal. That is perception time. Then you have to bring
up your foot and do it. That is reaction time.
Average reaction time is about three-fourths of a
second. But that is only an average. It might be less
with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or
more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness,
coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol,
drugs and frustration. But even in three-fourths of a
second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels
66 feet (20 m). That could be a lot of distance in an
emergency, so keeping enough space between
your vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly
with the surface of the road, whether it is pavement
or gravel; the condition of the road, whether it is wet,
dry or icy; tire tread; the condition of the brakes; the
weight of the vehicle; the weight of the load; and
the amount of brake force applied.
Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive
in spurts — heavy acceleration followed by heavy
braking — rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is
a mistake. The brakes might not have time to cool
between hard stops. The brakes will wear out muchfaster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace
with the traffic and allow realistic following distances,
you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking.
That means better braking and longer brake life.
If your vehicle’s engine ever stops while you are driving,
brake normally but do not pump the brakes. If you do, the
pedal could get harder to push down. If the engine stops,
you will still have some power brake assist. But you will
use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up,
it can take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be
harder to push.
Hydraulic Brake Systems
If the engine stops running, or if the primary brake system
stops working, your vehicle has a reserve power assist
system to help you slow down. Just slowly and steadily
apply the brake pedal until you can safely get off the road.
The pedal will seem harder to push down. Do not pump
the pedal; the system will not work well that way.
You might find that the steering wheel seems hard to turn
when you are turning and braking at the same time. Also,
the primary brake warning light might come on and the
warning tone might sound. This is normal because the
main hydraulic brake system and power steering both use
the power steering pump. If this ever happens, let up on
the brake pedal a little. When you let up on the brake
pedal in that situation, it lets the steering get a little more
help from the pump.
4-4

Antilock Brake System (ABS)
Your vehicle has the Antilock Brake System (ABS), an
advanced electronic braking system that will help
prevent a braking skid.
When you start the engine and begin to drive away,
ABS will check itself. You might hear a momentary
motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This
is normal.
If there is a problem with
ABS, this warning light will
stay on. SeeAnti-lock
Brake System (ABS)
Warning Light on
page 3-34.
Let us say the road is wet and you are driving safely.
Suddenly, an animal jumps out in front of you. You slam
on the brakes and continue braking. Here is what
happens with ABS:
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If
one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer
will separately work the brakes at each wheel.ABS can change the brake pressure faster than any
driver could. The computer is programmed to make the
most of available tire and road conditions. This can
help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
As you brake, the computer keeps receiving updates
on wheel speed and controls braking pressure
accordingly.
Remember: ABS does not change the time you need
to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always
decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to
the vehicle in front of you, you will not have time to
apply the brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or
stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop,
even though you have ABS.
Using ABS
Do not pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal
down firmly and let antilock work for you. You might feel
the brakes pulsate, or you might hear air exhausting
if your vehicle has air brakes, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
With ABS, you can steer and brake at the same time.
In many emergencies, steering can help you more than
even the very best braking.
4-5

Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can reduce vehicle traction
and affect your ability to stop and accelerate. Always
drive slower in these types of driving conditions
and avoid driving through large puddles and
deep-standing or flowing water.
{CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause crashes. They might not
work as well in a quick stop and could cause
pulling to one side. You could lose control of
the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water
or a car/vehicle wash, lightly apply the brake
pedal until the brakes work normally.
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. Driving through owing water could
cause your vehicle to be carried away. If this
happens, you and other vehicle occupants
could drown. Do not ignore police warnings
and be very cautious about trying to drive
through owing water.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. Water can build up under
your vehicle’s tires so they actually ride on the
water. This can happen if the road is wet enough and
you are going fast enough. When your vehicle is
hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
There is no hard and fast rule about hydroplaning. The
best advice is to slow down when the road is wet.
Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, other wet weather driving tips
include:
•Allow extra following distance.
•Pass with caution.
•Keep windshield wiping equipment in good shape.
•Keep the windshield washer fluid reservoir filled.
•Have good tires with proper tread depth. SeeTires
on page 5-82.
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•Stay in your own lane. Do not swing wide or cut
across the center of the road. Drive at speeds
that let you stay in your own lane.
•Top of hills: Be alert — something could be in your
lane (stalled car, accident).
•Pay attention to special road signs (falling rocks
area, winding roads, long grades, passing or
no-passing zones) and take appropriate action.
Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
•Be sure the vehicle is in good shape for winter.
•You might want to put winter emergency supplies in
your vehicle.
Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a
supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter
outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red
cloth, and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be
driving under severe conditions, include a small bag
of sand, a piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure
these items in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 5-82.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires meet the
road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You have a lot less traction, or grip, and need to be
very careful.
What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it can offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall. Try
to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.
If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI.
SeeFour-Wheel Drive on page 2-32.
4-16

Water In Fuel Light
Problem Recommended Action
Light comes on
intermittently.Drain water from the fuel
filter.
Light stays on at
temperatures above
freezing.Drain the fuel filter
immediately. If no water
can be drained and the
light stays on, see your
dealer/retailer for
assistance.
Light stays on at
temperatures below
freezing.Drain the fuel filter
immediately. If no water
can be drained, water
may be frozen in the
water drain system, or in
the fuel lines. Move the
vehicle to a warm location
to thaw out, and then
drain the filter system.
Light stays on
immediately after
refueling, and a large
amount of water was
possibly pumped into the
fuel tank.Fuel tank purging is
required. See your
dealer/retailer for
assistance.Notice:If you drive when this warning indicator is
on, you can damage your fuel injection system
and your engine. If the indicator comes on right after
you refuel, it means water was pumped into your
fuel tank. Turn off your engine immediately.
Then, have the water drained at once.
To drain water, do the following:
1. Stop and park the vehicle in a safe place. Turn off
the engine and apply the parking brake.
2. Remove the fuel cap.
3. Place a fuel-resistant container under the fuel filter.
The filter drain valve is located on the bottom of the
fuel filter.
If your vehicle has the 6.6L engine, the fuel filter is
located in the engine compartment on the driver’s
side of the vehicle. If your vehicle has either the
7.2L or 7.8L engine, the fuel filters are located in the
engine compartment on the driver’s side of the
vehicle, and on the driver’s side frame rail in front of
the fuel tank.
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5. Reinstall and tighten the filter container and
reconnect the water sensor wire to the filter.
6. Use the fuel filter priming procedure earlier in this
section to prime the fuel filter.
7. Tighten the air bleed valve by turning it clockwise
until hand-tight.
8. Start your engine and let it idle for five minutes.
Check your fuel filter and air bleed valve for
leaks.
How to Reset Fuel Filter Change
Light - DURAMAX®6.6L (LMM) Engine
The engine controller calculates when to change
the fuel filter based on vehicle and fuel use. Anytime
your fuel filter is changed, reset the fuel filter light so the
engine controller can calculate when the next fuel filter
change is required. If a situation occurs where you
change your fuel filter prior to a change fuel filter light
being turned on, reset the fuel filter change light.To reset the Fuel Filter Change light:
1. Turn the ignition key to RUN with the engine off
2. Fully press the accelerator and brake pedals at the
same time for 10 seconds. If the Fuel Filter Change
light flashes for 5 seconds, the system is resetting.
3. Turn the key to OFF
If the Fuel Filter Change light comes back on when you
start your vehicle, the light has not been reset. Repeat
the procedure. SeeChange Fuel Filter Warning Light on
page 3-44for more information.Fuels in Foreign Countries
If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel might be hard
to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel
not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly
repairs caused by use of improper fuel would not be
covered by your warranty.
To check the fuel availability, ask an auto club, or
contact a major oil company that does business in the
country where you will be driving.
5-19

What to Do with Used Oil
Used engine oil contains certain elements that can be
unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer.
Do not let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean
your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good
hand cleaner. Wash or properly dispose of clothing or
rags containing used engine oil. See the manufacturer’s
warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.
Used oil can be a threat to the environment. If you
change your own oil, be sure to drain all the oil from the
filter before disposal. Never dispose of oil by putting it
in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into
streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by
taking it to a place that collects used oil. If you have a
problem properly disposing of used oil, ask your
dealer/retailer, a service station, or a local recycling
center for help.
Engine Oil Life System
(DURAMAX
®/Isuzu Diesel Engines)
When to Change Engine Oil
If your vehicle has the Engine Oil Life System, it has a
computer system that lets you know when to change
the engine oil and filter. This is based on injection timing,
engine load and engine temperature, and not on
mileage. Based on driving conditions, the mileage atwhich an oil change will be indicated can vary
considerably. For the oil life system to work properly, you
must reset the system every time the oil is changed.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been
diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is
necessary. A change engine oil light will come on. See
Change Engine Oil Light on page 3-38. Change the
oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles
(1 000 km) or 30 hours of engine operation, whichever
occurs first. It is possible that, if you are driving under
the best conditions, the oil life system might not indicate
that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However,
the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a
year and at this time the system must be reset. Your
dealer/retailer has trained service people who will
perform this work using genuine parts and reset the
system. It is also important to check the oil regularly and
keep it at the proper level.
If the system is ever reset accidentally, you must
change the oil at 15,000 miles (24 000 km), or 150 hours
of engine operation, whichever occurs first, since your
last oil change. Remember to reset the oil life system
whenever the oil is changed.
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