2008 CHEVROLET AVALANCHE wheel

If your vehicle stalls when you are crossing an incline,
be sure you, and any passengers, get out on the
uphill side, even if the door there is harder to open.
If you get out on the downhill side and the vehicle
starts to roll over, you will be right in its path.
If you have to walk down the slope, stay out of the path
the vehicle will take if it does roll over.
Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels will
not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as quickly,
turning is more difficult, and you will need longer braking
distances. If your vehicle has four-wheel drive, see
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-39for transfer case mode
selection.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep mud,
the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do not
get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as
on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into
the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating,
and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp
turns or abrupt maneuvers.
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Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that
you will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.
{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your vehicle
downstream and you and your passengers
could drown. If it is only shallow water, it can
still wash away the ground from under your
tires, and you could lose traction and roll the
vehicle over. Do not drive through rushing
water.
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood waters
demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive through
it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel hubs, axles,
or exhaust pipe, do not try — you probably will not
get through. Also, water that deep can damage the
axle and other vehicle parts.
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If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it. At
faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition system and
your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also occur if you get
the tailpipe under water. And, as long as the tailpipe is
under water, you will never be able to start the engine.
When you go through water, remember that when the
brakes get wet, it may take you longer to stop.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 4-28for
more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood. These
accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake linings
cleaned and checked. These substances can cause
glazing and uneven braking. Check the body structure,
steering, suspension, wheels, tires, and exhaust
system for damage. Also, check the fuel lines and
cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service due
to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance Schedule
for additional information.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving
because some drivers are likely to be impaired — by
alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by
fatigue.
Night driving tips include:
Drive defensively.
Do not drink and drive.
Reduce headlamp glare by adjusting the inside
rearview mirror.
Slow down and keep more space between you and
other vehicles because headlamps can only light up
so much road ahead.
Watch for animals.
When tired, pull off the road.
Do not wear sunglasses.
Avoid staring directly into approaching headlamps.
Keep the windshield and all glass on your vehicle
clean — inside and out.
Keep your eyes moving, especially during turns or
curves.
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Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again
and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable
from the cold. But do it as little as possible. Preserve the
fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get
out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises
every half hour or so until help comes.
If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
Slowly and cautiously spin the wheels to free your
vehicle when stuck in sand, mud, ice, or snow. See
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out on page 4-34.
If your vehicle has a traction system, it can often help
to free a stuck vehicle. Refer to your vehicle’s traction
system in the Index. If the stuck condition is too
severe for the traction system to free the vehicle, turn
the traction system off and use the rocking method.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. The vehicle can overheat,
causing an engine compartment re or other
damage. Spin the wheels as little as possible
and avoid going above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
seeTire Chains on page 5-78.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right to clear the
area around the front wheels. For four-wheel-drive
vehicles, shift into Four-Wheel High. For vehicles with
StabiliTrak
®, turn the traction control part of the system
off. SeeStabiliTrak®System on page 4-6. Then shift back
and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear,
spinning the wheels as little as possible. To prevent
transmission wear, wait until the wheels stop spinning
before shifting gears. Release the accelerator pedal
while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator
pedal when the transmission is in gear.
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By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion that could free
your vehicle. If that does not get your vehicle out after a
few tries, it might need to be towed out. Or, you can use
recovery hooks, if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle
does need to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 4-42.
Recovery Hooks
{CAUTION:
These hooks, when used, are under a lot of
force. Always pull the vehicle straight out.
Never pull on the hooks at a sideways angle.
The hooks could break off and you or others
could be injured from the chain or cable
snapping back.Notice:Never use recovery hooks to tow the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged and it would
not be covered by warranty.
Your vehicle has recovery hooks at the front of the
vehicle. You can use them if you are stuck off-road
and need to be pulled to some place where you
can continue driving.
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Towing
Towing Your Vehicle
To avoid vehicle damage, a platform or atbed trailer
should be used to transport this vehicle. Consult
your dealer/retailer or a professional towing service
if you need to have your disabled vehicle towed.
SeeRoadside Assistance Program on page 7-6.
If you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle
for recreational purposes (such as behind a motorhome),
see “Recreational Vehicle Towing” following.
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Recreational vehicle towing means towing your vehicle
behind another vehicle – such as behind a motorhome.
The two most common types of recreational vehicle
towing are known as “dinghy towing” (towing your vehicle
with all four wheels on the ground) and “dolly towing”
(towing your vehicle with two wheels on the ground
and two wheels up on a device known as a “dolly”).
With the proper preparation and equipment, many
vehicles can be towed in these ways. See “Dinghy
Towing” and “Dolly Towing,” following.Here are some important things to consider before you
do recreational vehicle towing:
What’s the towing capacity of the towing vehicle?
Be sure you read the tow vehicle manufacturer’s
recommendations.
How far will you tow? Some vehicles have
restrictions on how far and how long they can tow.
Do you have the proper towing equipment?
See your dealer or trailering professional for
additional advice and equipment recommendations.
Is your vehicle ready to be towed? Just as you
would prepare your vehicle for a long trip, you’ll
want to make sure your vehicle is prepared to be
towed. SeeBefore Leaving on a Long Trip on
page 4-29.
Dinghy Towing
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow your vehicle with all four wheels
on the ground, the drivetrain components could
be damaged. The repairs would not be covered by
your warranty. Do not tow your vehicle with all
four wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel drive vehicles should not be towed
with all four wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed.
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Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).
2. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.
3. Firmly set the parking brake.
4. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow
vehicle.
{CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL
can cause your vehicle to roll even if the
transmission is in PARK (P). You or someone
else could be seriously injured. Be sure to set
the parking brake before placing the transfer
case in NEUTRAL. SeeParking Brake on
page 2-44.
5. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-39for the proper
procedure to select the neutral position for your
vehicle.
6. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
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Dolly Towing
Front Towing (Front Wheels Off the
Ground)
Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Notice:If you tow a two-wheel-drive vehicle with
the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission
could be damaged. The repairs would not be
covered by your warranty. Never tow your vehicle
with the rear wheels on the ground.
Two-wheel drive vehicles should not be towed
with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive
transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication
while being towed. To dolly tow a two-wheel-drive
vehicle, you must tow the vehicle with the rear wheels
on the dolly. See “Rear Towing (Rear Wheels Off the
Ground)” later in this section for more information.
Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly.
2. Firmly set the parking brake.
3. Shift the transmission to PARK (P).
4. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.
5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the
tow dolly.
{CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL
can cause your vehicle to roll even if the
transmission is in PARK (P). You or someone
else could be seriously injured. Be sure to set
the parking brake before placing the transfer
case in NEUTRAL. SeeParking Brake on
page 2-44.
6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL (N). See
Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-39for the proper
procedure to select the neutral position for your
vehicle.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle
being towed is rmly attached to the towing
vehicle.
If the tow vehicle will not be started or driven for
six weeks or more, remove the battery cable
from the negative terminal (post) of the battery to
prevent your battery from draining while towing.
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