2007 SAAB 9-7X trailer

After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer
and then the tongue, separately, to see if the
weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able
to get them right simply by moving some items
around in the trailer.
Trailering may be limited by the vehicle’s ability to
carry tongue weight. Tongue weight cannot cause
the vehicle to exceed the GVWR (Gross Vehicle
Weight Rating) or the RGAWR (Rear Gross
Axle Weight Rating). The effect of additional weight
may reduce your trailering capacity more than
the total of the additional weight.
Consider the following example:
A vehicle model base weight is 5,500 lbs
(2 495 kg); 2,800 lbs (1 270 kg) at the
front axle and 2,700 lbs (1 225 kg) at the rear
axle. It has a GVWR of 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg),
a RGAWR of 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) and a
GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating) of
14,000 lbs (6 350 kg).The trailer rating should be:
You can expect tongue weight to be at least
10 percent of trailer weight (850 lbs (386 kg)) and
because the weight is applied well behind the
rear axle, the effect on the rear axle will be greater
than just the weight itself, as much as 1.5 times
as much. The weight at the rear axle could
be 850 lbs (386 kg) X 1.5 = 1,275 lbs (578 kg).
Since the rear axle already weighs 2,700 lbs
(1 225 kg), adding 1,275 lbs (578 kg) brings the
total to 3,975 lbs (1 803 kg). This is very close to,
but within the limit for RGAWR as well. The
vehicle is set to trailer up to 8,500 lbs (3 856 kg).
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But let’s say your specic vehicle is equipped with
some of the latest options and you have a front
seat passenger and two rear seat passengers with
some luggage and gear in the vehicle as well.
You may add 300 lbs (136 kg) to the front
axle weight and 400 lbs (181 kg) to the rear axle
weight. Your vehicle now weighs:
Weight is still below 7,200 lbs (3 266 kg) and you
may think that you should subtract 700 additional
pounds (318 kg) from your trailering capacity
to stay within GCWR limits. Your maximum trailer
would only be 7,800 lbs (3 538 kg).You may go further and think you must limit
tongue weight to less than 1,000 lbs (454 kg) to
avoid exceeding GVWR. But, you must still
consider the effect on the rear axle. Because your
rear axle now weighs 3,100 lbs (1 406 kg), you
can only put 900 lbs (408 kg) on the rear axle
without exceeding RGAWR. The effect of tongue
weight is about 1.5 times the actual weight.
Dividing the 900 lbs (408 kg) by 1.5 leaves you
with being able to handle only 600 lbs (272 kg) of
tongue weight. Since tongue weight is usually
at least 10 percent of total loaded trailer weight,
you can expect that the largest trailer your vehicle
can properly handle is 6,000 lbs (2 721 kg).
It is important that you make sure your vehicle
does not exceed any of its ratings — GCWR,
GVWR, RGAWR, Maximum Trailer Rating
or Tongue Weight. The only way to be sure you
are not exceeding any of these ratings is to weigh
your vehicle and trailer.
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Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the
upper limit for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers
on the Certication label at the rear edge of the
driver’s door or seeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 296for more information. Then be sure you
don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer
tongue. If you use a weight distributing hitch, make
sure you don’t go over the rear axle limit before
you apply the weight distribution spring bars.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough
roads are a few reasons why you’ll need
the right hitch.
Weight Distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch
must be adjusted so the distance (A) remains
the same both before and after coupling the trailer
to the tow vehicle.
(A) Body to Ground Distance, (B) Front of Vehicle
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If you will be pulling a trailer that, when loaded,
will weigh more than 4,000 lbs (1 814 kg) be sure
to use a properly mounted weight-distributing
hitch and sway control of the proper size.
This equipment is very important for proper
vehicle loading and good handling when driving.
Always use a sway control if the trailer will
weigh more than these limits. You can ask a hitch
dealer about sway controls.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety
chains under the tongue of the trailer to help
prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it
becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions
about safety chains may be provided by the hitch
manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for
attaching safety chains and do not attach them to
the bumper. Always leave just enough slack so
you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,500 lbs (680 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes — and
they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow
the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the
vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your
vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise,
both braking systems won’t work well.
You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the
brake uid tap at the port on the master cylinder
that sends uid to the rear brakes. But don’t
use copper tubing for this. If you do, it will bend
and nally break off. Use steel brake tubing.
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Driving with a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you have a rear-most window open and
you pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your
vehicle. You cannot see or smell CO.
It can cause unconsciousness or death.
SeeEngine Exhaust on page 119.
To maximize your safety when towing
a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected
for leaks, and make necessary repairs
before starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)

If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or
another opening, drive with your front,
main heating or cooling system on
and with the fan on any speed. This
will bring fresh, outside air into your
vehicle. Do not use the climate control
setting for maximum air because it
only recirculates the air inside your
vehicle. SeeDual Automatic Climate
Control System on page 167.
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
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Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connection,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer
has electric brakes, start your vehicle and
trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake
controller by hand to be sure the brakes are
working. This lets you check your electrical
connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one
hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left,
just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will
ash whenever you signal a turn or lane change.
Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you’re about to
turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your
instrument panel will ash for turns even if the
bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may
think drivers behind you are seeing your signal
when they are not. It’s important to check
occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still
working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbefore
you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you
don’t shift down, you might have to use your
brakes so much that they would get hot and no
longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission to THIRD (3) or a lower gear,
under heavy loads or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill
grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will
boil at a lower temperature than at normal
altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately
after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
your vehicle may show signs similar to engine
overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while
parked (preferably on level ground) with the
automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a few
minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating
on page 347.
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Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your
vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes wrong, your rig could
start to move. People can be injured, and
both your vehicle and the trailer can be
damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill,
here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. When parking uphill, turn your
wheels away from the curb. When parking
downhill, turn your wheels into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release
the regular brakes until the chocks absorb
the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake, and then shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the
chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
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