MPI -On-vehicle Service13A-130
14. If any of fuel pressure measured in steps 10 to 13 is out of
specification, troubleshoot and repair according to the
table below.
SymptomProbable causeRemedy
DFuel pressure too low
DFuelpressuredropsafterracing
Clogged fuel filterReplace fuel filter
DFuelpressuredrops after racing
DNo fuel pressure in fuel return
hose
Fuel leaking to return side due to poor
fuel regulator valve seating or settled
springReplace fuel pressure regulator
Low fuel pump delivery pressureReplace fuel pump
Fuel pressure too highBinding valve in fuel pressure
regulatorReplace fuel pressure regulator
Clogged fuel return hose or pipeClean or replace hose or pipe
Same fuel pressure when vacuum
hose is connected and when
disconnected
Damaged vacuum hose or clogged
nippleReplace vacuum hose or clean nipple
disconnectedFuel pressure control system
malfunctionCheck the fuel pressure control
system
15. Stop the engine and check change of fuel pressure gauge
reading. Normal if the reading does not drop within 2
minutes. If it does, observe the rate of drop and
troubleshoot and repair according to the table below.
SymptomProbable causeRemedy
Fuel pressure drops gradually after
engineisstopped
Leaky injectorReplace injector
engineisstopped
Leaky fuel regulator valve seatReplace fuel pressure regulator
Fuel pressure drops sharply
immediately after engine is stoppedCheck valve in fuel pump is held openReplace fuel pump
16. Release residual pressure from the fuel pipe line.
(Refer to P.13A-125.)
17. Remove the fuel pressure gauge and special tool from
the delivery pipe.
Caution
Cover the hose connection with rags to prevent splash
of fuel that could be caused by some residual pressure
in the fuel pipe line.
18. Replace the O-ring at the end of the fuel high pressure
hose with a new one. Furthermore, apply engine oil to
the new O-ring before replacement.
19. Fit the fuel high pressure hose over the delivery pipe
and tighten the bolt to specified torque.
Tightening torque: 5.0±1.0 N·m
20. Check for any fuel leaks by following the procedure in
step 7.
21. Disconnect the MUT-II.
STEERING -On-vehicle Service37A-9
POWER STEERING FLUID LEVEL CHECK
1. Park the vehicle on a flat, level surface, start the engine,
and then turn the steering wheel several times to raise
the temperature of the fluid to approximately 50 - 60_C.
2. With the engine running, turn the wheel all the way to
the left and right several times.
3. Check the fluid in the oil reservoir for foaming or milkiness.
Check the difference of the fluid level when the engine
is stopped, and while it is running. If the change of the
fluid level is 5 mm or more, air bleeding should be done.
POWER STEERING FLUID REPLACEMENT
1. Raise the front wheels on a jack, and then support them
with rigid racks.
2. Disconnect the return hose connection.
3. Connect a vinyl hose to the return hose, and drain the
oil into a container.
4. Disconnect the ignition coil connectors. (Refer to
GROUP16 - Ignition System.)
5. While operating the starting motor intermittently, turn the
steering wheel all the way to the left and right several
times to drain all of the fluid.
6. Connect the return hoses securely, and then secure it
with the clip.
7. Fill the oil reservoir with specified fluid up to the lower
position of the filter, and then bleed air.
Specified fluid:
Automatic transmission fluid DEXRONII
Caution
Do not use ATF-SPIIM and ATF-SPIII.
POWER STEERING SYSTEM BLEEDING
1. Jack up the vehicle and support the front wheels with
rigid racks.
2. Disconnect the ignition coil connectors. (Refer to
GROUP16 - Ignition System.)
3. Cranking the engine with the starter several times
intermittently (during 15 to 20 seconds), turn the steering
wheel left and right fully five or six times.
Caution
(1) During the bleeding, refill the fluid so that the
level never falls below the lower position of the
filter.
(2) Be sure to bleed air only while cranking. If the
bleeding is done with the engine running, the air
will be broken up and absorbed into the fluid.
4. Connect the ignition coil connectors and idle the engine.
5. Turn the steering wheel left and right fully until no bubbles
comes out in the oil reservoir.
6. See that the fluid is not milky and that the fluid level
is up to the specified position on the level gauge.
7. See that the fluid level changes little when the steering
wheel is turned left and right.
8. Check difference in fluid levels between the engine
stopped and running.
Fluid level change: Within 5 mm
While engine
runningWhile engine
stopped
Return hose
Vinyl hose
HEATER, AIR CONDITIONER AND VENTILATION–On-vehicle Service55-21
REFRIGERANT LEAK REPAIR
LOST CHARGE
If the system has lost all charge due to a leak:
1. Evacuate the system. (See procedure.)
2. Charge the system with approximately one
pound of refrigerant.
3. Check for leaks.
4. Discharge the system.
5. Repair leaks.
6. Replace receiver drier.
Caution
Replacement filter-drier units must be
sealed while in storage. The drier used in
these units will saturate water quickly upon
exposure to the atmosphere. When
installing a drier, have all tools and supplies
ready for quick reassembly to avoid keeping
the system open any longer than necessary.
7. Evacuate and charge system.
LOW CHARGE
If the system has not lost all of its refrigerant charge;
locate and repair all leaks. If it is necessary to
increase the system pressure to find the leak
(because of an especially low charge) add
refrigerant. If it is possible to repair the leak without
discharging the refrigerant system, use the
procedure for correcting low refrigerant level.HANDLING TUBING AND FITTINGS
Kinks in the refrigerant tubing or sharp bends in
the refrigerant hose lines will greatly reduce the
capacity of the entire system. High pressures are
produced in the system when it is operating.
Extreme care must be exercised to make sure that
all connections are pressure tight. Dirt and moisture
can enter the system when it is opened for repair
or replacement of lines or components. The
following precautions must be observed. The
system must be completely discharged before
opening any fitting of connection in the refrigeration
system. Open fittings with caution even after the
system has been discharged. If any pressure is
noticed as a fitting is loosened, allow trapped
pressure to bleed off very slowly.
Never attempt to rebend formed lines to fit. Use
the correct line for the installation you are servicing.
A good rule for the flexible hose lines is keep the
radius of all bends at least 10 times the diameter
of the hose.
Sharper bends will reduce the flow of refrigerant.
The flexible hose lines should be routed so that
they are at least 80 mm from the exhaust manifold.
It is good practice to inspect all flexible hose lines
at least once a year to make sure they are in good
condition and properly routed.
Unified plumbing connections with O-rings, these
O-rings are not reusable.
COMPRESSOR NOISE
You must first know the conditions when the noise
occurs. These conditions are: weather, vehicle
speed, in gear or neutral, engine temperature or
any other special conditions.
Noises that develop during A/C operation can often
be misleading. For example: what sounds like a
failed front bearing or connecting rod, may be
caused by loose bolts, nuts, mounting brackets,
or a loose clutch assembly. Verify accessory drive
belt tension (power steering or alternator).
Improper accessory drive belt tension can cause
a misleading noise when the compressor is
engaged and little or no noise when the compressor
is disengaged.
Drive belts are speed-sensitive. That is, at different
engine speeds, and depending upon belt tension,
belts can develop unusual noises that are often
mistaken for mechanical problems within the
compressor.ADJUSTMENT
1. Select a quiet area for testing. Duplicate
conditions as much as possible. Switch
compressor on and off several times to clearly
identify compressor noise. To duplicate high
ambient conditions (high head pressure),
restrict air flow through condenser. Install
manifold gauge set to make sure discharge
pressure doesn’t exceed 2,070 kPa.
2. Tighten all compressor mounting bolts, clutch
mounting bolt, and compressor drive belt.
Check to assure clutch coil is tight (no rotation
or wobble).
3. Check refrigerant hoses for rubbing or
interference that can cause unusual noises.
4. Check refrigerant charge. (See “Charging
System”.)
5. Recheck compressor noise as in Step 1.
6. If noise still exists, loosen compressor mounting
bolts and retorque. Repeat Step 1.
7. If noise continues, replace compressor and
repeat Step 1.