2007 GMC YUKON XL tow

Electric Brake Control Wiring
Provisions
These wiring provisions are included with your
vehicle as part of the trailer wiring package. These
provisions are for an electric brake controller. The
instrument panel contains blunt cut wires near the
data link connector for the trailer brake controller.
The harness contains the following wires:
Dark Blue: Brake Signal to Trailer Connector
Red/Black: Battery
Light Blue/White: Brake Switch
White: Ground
It should be installed by your dealer or a qualied
service center.
Power Winches
If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle,
only use it when your vehicle is stationary or
anchored.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR) for your vehicle. CWR is
the maximum weight of the load your vehicle can
carry. It doesn’t include the weight of the people
inside. But you can gure about 150 lbs. (68 kg) for
each seat. The total cargo load must not be
more than your vehicle’s CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so
that you won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you
are using a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the
vehicle without the spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out
the weight of your load the right way, and if
you choose the correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, seeTowing a Trailer
on page 405.
422

Engine Oil
If the CHECK OIL LEVEL message appears on
the instrument cluster, it means you need to check
your engine oil level right away.
For more information, see CHECK OIL LEVEL
underDIC Warnings and Messages on page 254.
You should check your engine oil level regularly;
this is an added reminder.
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every
time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate
reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must
be on level ground.The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 436
for the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several
minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you
do not do this, the oil dipstick might not
show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper
towel or cloth, then push it back in all the
way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down,
and check the level.
438

Then, without shutting off the engine, follow
these steps:
The transmission
dipstick handle with this
graphic is located at
the rear of the engine
compartment, on
the passenger’s side of
the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 436
for more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the
dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or
paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds
and then pull it back out again.3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the
lower level. The uid level must be in the
COLD area, below the cross-hatched area, for
a cold check or in the HOT or cross-hatched
area for a hot check. Be sure to keep the
dipstick pointed down to get an accurate
reading.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range,
push the dipstick back in all the way; then
ip the handle down to lock the dipstick
in place.
447

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
The ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP ENGINE or
the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE ENGINE
message, along with a low coolant condition, can
indicate a serious problem.
If you get an engine overheat warning, but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too
serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too
hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. SeeTowing a Trailer on
page 405.If you get the ENGINE OVERHEATED STOP
ENGINE or the ENGINE OVERHEATED IDLE
ENGINE message with no sign of steam, try this
for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it is on,
turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest
fan speed and open the windows as
necessary.
3. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in
NEUTRAL (N) while stopped. If it is safe to
do so, pull off the road, shift to PARK (P)
or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you
can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for
about 10 minutes. If the warning does not come
back on, you can drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park
your vehicle immediately.
453

If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is
equipped with an engine-driven cooling fan,
push down the accelerator until the engine speed
is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for
at least ve minutes while you are parked.
If there is still no sign of steam and your vehicle is
equipped with an electric cooling fan, idle the
engine for ve minutes while you are parked.
If you still have the warning, turn off the engine
and get everyone out of the vehicle until it
cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine
Protection Operating Mode” later in this section.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get
service help right away.Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
If an overheated engine condition exists and the
REDUCED ENGINE POWER message is
displayed, an overheat protection mode which
alternates ring groups of cylinders helps prevent
engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a
loss in power and engine performance. This
operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to
a safe place in an emergency. Driving extended
miles (km) and/or towing a trailer in the overheat
protection mode should be avoided.
Notice:After driving in the overheated engine
protection operating mode, to avoid engine
damage, allow the engine to cool before
attempting any repair. The engine oil will be
severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant
loss, change the oil and reset the oil life
system. SeeEngine Oil on page 438.
454

5. Then replace the pressure cap. Be sure the
pressure cap is hand-tight and fully seated.
6. Verify coolant level after engine is shutoff and
the coolant is cold. If necessary, repeat
coolant ll procedure steps 1 through 6.
Engine Fan Noise
If your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan,
when the clutch is engaged, the fan spins
faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In
most everyday driving conditions, the fan is
spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged.
This improves fuel economy and reduces fan
noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing,
and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed
increases as the clutch more fully engages, so you
may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is
merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling is
not required and the clutch disengages.You may also hear this fan noise when you start
the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch
partially disengages.
If your vehicle has electric cooling fans, you may
hear the fans spinning at low speed during
most everyday driving. The fans may turn off if no
cooling is required. Under heavy vehicle loading,
trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, or
if you are operating your air conditioning system,
the fans may change to high speed and you
may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal
and indicates that the cooling system is
functioning properly. The fans will change to low
speed when additional cooling is no longer
required.
460

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front
and rear ination pressures as shown on the
tire and loading information label. SeeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 390andInation - Tire
Pressure on page 490, for more information.
Vehicles that have the Tire Pressure Monitor
System (TPMS) will need to have the TPMS
sensors reset after a tire rotation. See “TPMS
Sensor Identication Codes” underTire Pressure
Monitor System on page 492.
Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly
tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 548.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel
could come off and cause an accident.
When you change a wheel, remove any
rust or dirt from places where the wheel
attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency,
you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do
this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire
brush later, if needed, to get all the rust or
dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 508.
498

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are
driving, especially if you maintain your vehicle’s
tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it is
much more likely to leak out slowly. But if you
should ever have a blowout, here are a few tips
about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag
that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your
foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the
steering wheel rmly. Steer to maintain lane
position, and then gently brake to a stop well out
of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much
like a skid and may require the same correction
you would use in a skid. In any rear blowout
remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get
the vehicle under control by steering the way
you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy
and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake
to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous
without the appropriate safety equipment
and training. The jack provided with your
vehicle is designed only for changing a
at tire. If it is used for anything else, you
or others could be badly injured or killed
if the vehicle slips off the jack. Use the
jack provided with your vehicle only for
changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use
the jacking equipment to change a at tire
safely.
507