2007 GMC SIERRA CLASSIC light

City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is
the amount of traffic on them. You will want
to watch out for what the other drivers are doing
and pay attention to traffic signals.Here are ways to increase your safety in city
driving:
Know the best way to get to where you are
going. Get a city map and plan your trip
into an unknown part of the city just as you
would for a cross-country trip.
Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross
most large cities. You will save time and
energy. SeeFreeway Driving on page 397.
Treat a green light as a warning signal.
A traffic light is there because the corner
is busy enough to need it. When a light turns
green, and just before you start to move,
check both ways for vehicles that have not
cleared the intersection or may be running the
red light.
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Before changing lanes, check your mirrors.
Then use your turn signal.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly
over your shoulder to make sure there is not
another vehicle in your blind spot.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make
certain you allow a reasonable following distance.
Expect to move slightly slower at night.
When you want to leave the freeway, move to the
proper lane well in advance. If you miss your
exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and
back up. Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite
sharply. The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your
speedometer, not to your sense of motion.
After driving for any distance at higher speeds,
you may tend to think you are going slower than
you actually are.Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you are ready. Try to be well rested.
If you must start when you are not fresh — such as
after a day’s work — do not plan to make too
many miles that rst part of the journey. Wear
comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily
drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it
serviced and maintained, it is ready to go. If it
needs service, have it done before starting out.
Of course, you will nd experienced and able
service experts in GM dealerships all across
North America. They will be ready and willing to
help if you need it.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
You may want to put winter emergency
supplies in your vehicle.
Also seeTires on page 543.Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom,
a supply of windshield washer uid, a rag,
some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a
ashlight, a red cloth, and reective warning
triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe
conditions, include a small bag of sand, a
piece of old carpet, or a couple of burlap bags
to help provide traction. Be sure you properly
secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where the tires
meet the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between the tires
and the road, you can have a very slippery
situation. You will have a lot less traction, or grip,
and will need to be very careful.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You cannot see
it or smell it, so you might not know it is in
your vehicle. Clear away snow from around
the base of your vehicle, especially any
that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And
check around again from time to time to
be sure snow does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must.
This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it
go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy parts
of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you
spin the wheels too fast while shifting
the transmission back and forth, you can
destroy the transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 562.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right.
That will clear the area around the front wheels.
If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift
into Four-Wheel High. If your vehicle has the
Traction Assist System (TAS), you should
turn it off by pressing the TAS on/off button.Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R)
and a forward gear, or with a manual transmission,
between FIRST (1) or SECOND (2) and
REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels as little as
possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you
shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal
when the transmission is in gear. By slowly
spinning the wheels in the forward and reverse
directions, you will cause a rocking motion
that may free your vehicle. If that does not get
your vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to be
towed out. Or, you can use the recovery hooks
if your vehicle has them. If your vehicle does need
to be towed out, seeTowing Your Vehicle on
page 423.
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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed
limit restrictions, having to do with trailering.
Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where
you live but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for this information can be state
or provincial police.
Consider using a sway control. See “Hitches”
later in this section.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the rst
500 miles (800 km) your new vehicle is driven.
Your engine, axle or other parts could be
damaged.
Then, during the rst 500 miles (800 km) that
you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph
(80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle.
This helps your engine and other parts of
your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
If you have an automatic transmission, you
can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to
shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if
necessary, a lower gear selection if the
transmission shifts too often, such as under
heavy loads and/or hilly conditions. If you have
a manual transmission and you are towing a
trailer, it’s better not to use the highest
gear. SeeTow/Haul Mode Light on page 264.
Three important considerations have to do
with weight:
The weight of the trailer
The weight of the trailer tongue
The weight on your vehicle’s tires
Tow/Haul Mode
Tow/Haul is a feature on automatic transmission
equipped vehicles that assists when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load. SeeTow/Haul Mode
on page 147for more information.
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Tow/Haul is designed to be most effective when
the vehicle and trailer combined weight is at
least 75 percent of the vehicle’s Gross Combined
Weight Rating (GCWR). See “Weight of the
Trailer” later in the section. Tow/Haul is most
useful under the following driving conditions:
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large
or heavy load through rolling terrain.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or
heavy load in stop and go traffic.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or
heavy load in busy parking lots where
improved low speed control of the vehicle is
desired.
Operating the vehicle in Tow/Haul when lightly
loaded or with no trailer at all will not cause
damage. However, there is no benet to the
selection of Tow/Haul when the vehicle is
unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may
result in unpleasant engine and transmission
driving characteristics and reduced fuel economy.
Tow/Haul is recommended only when pulling a
heavy trailer or a large or heavy load.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig.
For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside
temperature and how much your vehicle is used
to pull a trailer are all important. It can also depend
on any special equipment that you have on your
vehicle, and the amount of tongue weight the
vehicle can carry. See “Weight of the Trailer
Tongue” later in this section for more information.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming
only the driver is in the tow vehicle and it has all
the required trailering equipment. The weight
of additional optional equipment, passengers and
cargo in the tow vehicle must be subtracted
from the maximum trailer weight.
Above the 5,000 lbs (2 268 kg) trailer rating,
the handling/trailering suspension is required on
two-wheel drive 1500 series models and the
handling/trailering or off-road suspension is
required on four-wheel drive 1500 series models.
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The hitch should be located in the pickup bed so
that it’s centerline is over or slightly in front of the
rear axle. Take care that it is not so far forward that
it will contact the back of the cab in sharp turns.
This is especially important for short box pickups.
Trailer pin box extensions and sliding fth wheel
hitch assemblies can help this condition. There
should be at least six inches of clearance between
the top of the pickup box and the bottom of the
trailer shelf that extends over the box.
Make sure the hitch is attached to the tow vehicle
frame rails. Do not use the pickup box for support.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your
vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains
under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the
tongue from contacting the road if it becomes
separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety
chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer
or by the trailer manufacturer. If you are towing a
trailer up to 5,000 lbs (2 271 kg) with a
factory-installed step bumper, you may attach the
safety chains to the attaching points on the bumper.
If you are towing a trailer up to your vehicle’s trailer
rating limit you may attach the safety chains to the
attaching point on the hitch platform. If you aretowing with an aftermarket hitch follow the trailer or
hitch manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching
safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so
you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety
chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they
must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the
instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be
able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the
vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your
vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise,
both braking systems won’t work well. You
could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap
at the port on the master cylinder that sends the
uid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing
for this. If you do, it will bend and nally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
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