2007 GMC ENVOY steering

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels
will not get good traction. You cannot accelerate
as quickly, turning is more difficult, and you
will need longer braking distances.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in
mud —the deeper the mud, the lower the gear.
In really deep mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle
moving so you do not get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change
in wheel traction. But it will depend upon how
loosely packed the sand is. On loosely packed
sand, such as on beaches or sand dunes, the tires
will tend to sink into the sand. This has an effect
on steering, accelerating, and braking. Drive
at a reduced speed and avoid sharp turns
or abrupt maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire
traction. On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose
control. On wet ice, for example, the traction is so
poor that you will have difficulty accelerating. And if
you do get moving, poor steering and difficult
braking can cause you to slide out of control.{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers
can be dangerous. Underwater springs,
currents under the ice, or sudden thaws
can weaken the ice. Your vehicle could
fall through the ice and you and your
passengers could drown. Drive your
vehicle on safe surfaces only.
Driving in Water
Heavy rain can mean ash ooding, and ood
waters demand extreme caution.
Find out how deep the water is before you drive
through it. If it is deep enough to cover the wheel
hubs, axles, or exhaust pipe, do not try it — you
probably will not get through. Also, water that deep
can damage the axle and other vehicle parts.
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If the water is not too deep, drive slowly through it.
At faster speeds, water splashes on the ignition
system and your vehicle can stall. Stalling can also
occur if you get the tailpipe under water. And,
as long as the tailpipe is under water, you will
never be able to start the engine. When you go
through water, remember that when the brakes get
wet, it may take you longer to stop.
{CAUTION:
Driving through rushing water can be
dangerous. Deep water can sweep your
vehicle downstream and you and your
passengers could drown. If it is only
shallow water, it can still wash away the
ground from under your tires, and you
could lose traction and roll the vehicle
over. Do not drive through rushing water.
SeeDriving in Rain and on Wet Roads on page 335
for more information on driving through water.
After Off-Road Driving
Remove any brush or debris that has collected on
the underbody, chassis, or under the hood.
These accumulations can be a re hazard.
After operation in mud or sand, have the brake
linings cleaned and checked. These substances
can cause glazing and uneven braking. Check the
body structure, steering, suspension, wheels, tires,
and exhaust system for damage. Also, check the
fuel lines and cooling system for any leakage.
Your vehicle will require more frequent service
due to off-road use. Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule for additional information.
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What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on.
But wet ice can be even more trouble because it
may offer the least traction of all. You can get
wet ice when it is about freezing, 32°F (0°C), and
freezing rain begins to fall. Try to avoid driving
on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed,
blowing, or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile
traction. If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels
will spin and polish the surface under the tires
even more.
The Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop
on a slippery road. Even though you have ABS,
you will want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake
System (ABS) on page 307.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be
ne until you hit a spot that is covered with
ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches
may appear in shaded areas where the
sun cannot reach, such as around clumps of
trees, behind buildings, or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an
overpass may remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. If you see a
patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you
are on it. Try not to brake while you are
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
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If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice, or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck,
you will need to spin the wheels, but you do not
want to spin your wheels too fast. The method
known as rocking can help you get out when you
are stuck, but you must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your vehicle’s tires spin at high
speed, they can explode, and you or others
could be injured. And, the transmission or
other parts of the vehicle can overheat.
That could cause an engine compartment
re or other damage. When you are stuck,
spin the wheels as little as possible. Do not
spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as
shown on the speedometer.Notice:Spinning the wheels can destroy
parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you
spin the wheels too fast while shifting the
transmission back and forth, you can destroy
the transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 461.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn the steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around the front wheels. If you have
a four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into Four-Wheel
High. Then shift back and forth between
REVERSE (R) and a forward gear, spinning the
wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator
pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the
accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear.
By slowly spinning the wheels in the forward and
reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion
that may free your vehicle. If that does not get your
vehicle out after a few tries, it may need to be towed
out. If your vehicle does need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 354.
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During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a
good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther
beyond the passed vehicle before you can
return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with
one hand. Then, to move the trailer to the left, just
move that hand to the left. To move the trailer
to the right, move your hand to the right. Always
back up slowly and, if possible, have someone
guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while
trailering could cause the trailer to come in
contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be
damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns
while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider
turns than normal. Do this so your trailer
won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs,
trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden
maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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Service........................................................ 380
Accessories and Modications................... 380
California Proposition 65 Warning.............. 381
Doing Your Own Service Work.................. 381
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle.......................................... 382
Fuel............................................................. 382
Gasoline Octane........................................ 382
Gasoline Specications.............................. 383
California Fuel........................................... 383
Additives................................................... 383
Fuels in Foreign Countries........................ 384
Filling the Tank......................................... 385
Filling a Portable Fuel Container............... 387
Checking Things Under the Hood.............. 388
Hood Release........................................... 388
Engine Compartment Overview.................. 390
Engine Oil................................................. 394
Engine Oil Life System.............................. 398
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter............................ 400
Automatic Transmission Fluid.................... 401
Engine Coolant.......................................... 405Radiator Pressure Cap.............................. 408
Engine Overheating................................... 408
Cooling System......................................... 411
Engine Fan Noise..................................... 416
Power Steering Fluid ................................. 417
Windshield Washer Fluid........................... 418
Brakes...................................................... 419
Battery...................................................... 422
Jump Starting............................................ 423
Rear Axle.................................................... 428
Four-Wheel Drive........................................ 428
Front Axle................................................... 429
Bulb Replacement....................................... 430
Halogen Bulbs........................................... 430
Headlamps................................................ 431
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Parking Lamps....................................... 432
Taillamps, Turn Signal, and Stoplamps...... 432
Back-Up Lamps......................................... 434
License Plate Lamp................................... 435
Replacement Bulbs................................... 435
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
377

A. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 400.
B. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 411.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 418.
D. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 417.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick (Out of
View). See “Checking the Fluid Level” under
Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 401.
F. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 394.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 408.
H. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 394.
I. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 423.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 419.
K. Battery. SeeBattery on page 422.
L. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 493.
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A. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeCooling
System on page 411.
B. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 400.
C. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. See
“Adding Washer Fluid” underWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 418.
D. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 394.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
“Checking the Fluid Level” underAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 401.
F. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine
Oil” underEngine Oil on page 394.G. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeRadiator Pressure
Cap on page 408.
H. Remote Negative (−) Terminal (Marked GND).
SeeJump Starting on page 423.
I. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. SeePower
Steering Fluid on page 417.
J. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See “Brake
Fluid” underBrakes on page 419.
K. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 493.
L. Battery. SeeBattery on page 422.
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