2007 BUICK LUCERNE ESP

Driving Through Deep Standing Water
Notice:If you drive too quickly through deep
puddles or standing water, water can come in
through your engine’s air intake and badly
damage your engine. Never drive through water
that is slightly lower than the underbody of your
vehicle. If you cannot avoid deep puddles or
standing water, drive through them very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
{CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong
forces. If you try to drive through owing
water, as you might at a low water
crossing, your vehicle can be carried away.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
As little as six inches of owing water
can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this
happens, you and other vehicle occupants
could drown. Do not ignore police warning
signs, and otherwise be very cautious
about trying to drive through owing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
Besides slowing down, allow some extra
following distance. And be especially careful
when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself
more clear room ahead, and be prepared to
have your view restricted by road spray.
Have good tires with proper tread depth.
SeeTires on page 385.
295

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be
careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under
your vehicle. This can cause deadly CO
(carbon monoxide) gas to get inside.
CO could overcome you and kill you.
You cannot see it or smell it, so you might
not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away
snow from around the base of your
vehicle, especially any that is blocking
your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
does not collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of
the vehicle that is away from the wind.
This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This
saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go
a little faster than just idle. That is, push the
accelerator slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat
that you get and it keeps the battery charged.
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Trailer Wiring Harness
All of the electrical circuits required for your trailer
lighting system can be accessed at the driver’s
side rear lamp connector. This connector is located
under the carpet on the rear corner of the trunk
compartment.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of
experience. Before setting out for the open road,
you will want to get to know your rig. Acquaint
yourself with the feel of handling and braking with
the added weight of the trailer. And always
keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is
now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer
has electric brakes, start your vehicle and
trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake
controller by hand to be sure the brakes are
working. This lets you check your electrical
connection at the same time.During your trip, check occasionally to be sure
that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any
trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead
as you would when driving your vehicle without
a trailer. This can help you avoid situations
that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You will need more passing distance up ahead
when you are towing a trailer. And, because
the vehicle is a good deal longer, you will need to
go much farther beyond the passed vehicle
before you can return to your lane.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal
down while you:
Start your engine.
Shift into a gear.
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of
the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store
the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when
you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance
Schedule for more on this. Things that are
especially important in trailer operation are
automatic transaxle uid (don’t overll), engine oil,
drive belt, cooling system and brake system.
Each of these is covered in this manual, and the
Index will help you nd them quickly. If you’re
trailering, it’s a good idea to review this information
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and
bolts are tight.
Engine Cooling When Trailer Towing
Your cooling system may temporarily overheat
during severe operating conditions. SeeEngine
Overheating on page 351.
322

How to Check Automatic Transaxle
Fluid (3.8L Engine)
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you
may choose to have this done at the dealership
service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the
instructions here, or you could get a false reading
on the dipstick.
Notice:Too much or too little uid can
damage the transaxle. Too much can mean that
some of the uid could come out and fall on hot
engine or exhaust system parts, starting a re.
Too little uid could cause the transaxle to
overheat. Be sure to get an accurate reading if
you check the transaxle uid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the
transaxle uid level if you have been driving:
When outside temperatures are above
90°F (32°C).
At high speed for quite a while.
In heavy traffic — especially in hot weather.
While pulling a trailer.To get the right reading, the uid should be at
normal operating temperature, which is
180°F to 200°F (82°C to 93°C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about
15 miles (24 km) when outside temperatures are
above 50°F (10°C). If it is colder than 50°F (10°C),
you may have to drive longer.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
1. Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the
engine running.
2. With the parking brake applied, place the shift
lever in PARK (P).
3. With your foot on the brake pedal, move the
shift lever through each gear range, pausing
for about three seconds in each range.
Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
4. Let the engine run at idle for three to
ve minutes.
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Cold Tire Pressure:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch
(psi) or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up
heat from driving. SeeInation - Tire Pressure
on page 392.
Curb Weight:This means the weight of a motor
vehicle with standard and optional equipment
including the maximum capacity of fuel, oil, and
coolant, but without passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall
of a tire signifying that the tire is in compliance
with the U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT)
motor vehicle safety standards. The DOT code
includes the Tire Identication Number (TIN),
an alphanumeric designator which can also identify
the tire manufacturer, production plant, brand,
and date of production.
GVWR:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating. See
Loading Your Vehicle on page 307.
GAWR FRT:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the
front axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 307.
GAWR RR:Gross Axle Weight Rating for the
rear axle. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 307.Intended Outboard Sidewall:The side of an
asymmetrical tire, that must always face outward
when mounted on a vehicle.
Kilopascal (kPa):The metric unit for air pressure.
Light Truck (LT-Metric) Tire:A tire used on
light duty trucks and some multipurpose passenger
vehicles.
Load Index:An assigned number ranging
from 1 to 279 that corresponds to the load
carrying capacity of a tire.
Maximum Ination Pressure:The maximum air
pressure to which a cold tire may be inated. The
maximum air pressure is molded onto the sidewall.
Maximum Load Rating:The load rating for a tire
at the maximum permissible ination pressure
for that tire.
Maximum Loaded Vehicle Weight:The sum of
curb weight, accessory weight, vehicle capacity
weight, and production options weight.
Normal Occupant Weight:The number of
occupants a vehicle is designed to seat multiplied
by 150 lbs (68 kg). SeeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 307.
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Accordingly, when the low tire pressure telltale
illuminates, you should stop and check your tires
as soon as possible, and inate them to the
proper pressure. Driving on a signicantly
under-inated tire causes the tire to overheat and
can lead to tire failure. Under-ination also
reduces fuel efficiency and tire tread life, and may
affect the vehicle’s handling and stopping ability.
Please note that the TPMS is not a substitute
for proper tire maintenance, and it is the driver’s
responsibility to maintain correct tire pressure,
even if under-ination has not reached the level to
trigger illumination of the TPMS low tire pressure
telltale.
Your vehicle has also been equipped with a TPMS
malfunction indicator to indicate when the
system is not operating properly. The TPMS
malfunction indicator is combined with the low tire
pressure telltale. When the system detects a
malfunction, the telltale will ash for approximately
one minute and then remain continuously
illuminated. This sequence will continue upon
subsequent vehicle start-ups as long as the
malfunction exists.When the malfunction indicator is illuminated, the
system may not be able to detect or signal low
tire pressure as intended. TPMS malfunctions may
occur for a variety of reasons, including the
installation of replacement or alternate tires or
wheels on the vehicle that prevent the TPMS from
functioning properly. Always check the TPMS
malfunction telltale after replacing one or more
tires or wheels on your vehicle to ensure that the
replacement or alternate tires and wheels allow
the TPMS to continue to function properly.
A tire and Loading Information label, attached to
your vehicle, shows the size of your vehicle’s
original equipment tires and the correct ination
pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they
are cold. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 307,
for an example of the tire information label and
its location on your vehicle. Also seeInation - Tire
Pressure on page 392.
395

While the tires available on General Motors
passenger cars and light trucks may vary with
respect to these grades, they must also conform to
federal safety requirements and additional General
Motors Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) standards.
Treadwear
The treadwear grade is a comparative rating
based on the wear rate of the tire when tested
under controlled conditions on a specied
government test course. For example, a tire
graded 150 would wear one and a half (1.5) times
as well on the government course as a tire
graded 100. The relative performance of tires
depends upon the actual conditions of their use,
however, and may depart signicantly from
the norm due to variations in driving habits, service
practices, and differences in road characteristics
and climate.
Traction – AA, A, B, C
The traction grades, from highest to lowest, are AA,
A, B, and C. Those grades represent the tire’s
ability to stop on wet pavement as measured under
controlled conditions on specied government test
surfaces of asphalt and concrete. A tire marked C
may have poor traction performance.Warning:The traction grade assigned to this tire
is based on straight-ahead braking traction
tests, and does not include acceleration, cornering,
hydroplaning, or peak traction characteristics.
Temperature – A, B, C
The temperature grades are A (the highest), B,
and C, representing the tire’s resistance to
the generation of heat and its ability to dissipate
heat when tested under controlled conditions on a
specied indoor laboratory test wheel. Sustained
high temperature can cause the material of the tire
to degenerate and reduce tire life, and excessive
temperature can lead to sudden tire failure.
The grade C corresponds to a level of performance
which all passenger car tires must meet under
the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard
No. 109. Grades B and A represent higher levels
of performance on the laboratory test wheel
than the minimum required by law.
Warning:The temperature grade for this tire is
established for a tire that is properly inated
and not overloaded. Excessive speed,
under-ination, or excessive loading, either
separately or in combination, can cause heat
buildup and possible tire failure.
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