2006 HUMMER H3 tow

What to Use
Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and
one-half DEX-COOL®coolant which will not damage
aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do
not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling
system can be dangerous. Plain water, or
some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil
before the proper coolant mixture will. Your
vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the
proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the
wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot
but you would not get the overheat warning.
Your engine could catch re and you or others
could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean,
drinkable water and the proper coolant.
Notice:If you use an improper coolant mixture,
your engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost would not be covered by your
warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze
and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and
other parts.Notice:If you use the proper coolant, you do not
have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim
to improve the system. These can be harmful.
Checking Coolant
The coolant recovery tank
cap has this symbol on it.
It is located toward the
rear of the engine
compartment on the
passenger’s side of the
vehicle. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for more
information on location.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL
COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm,
the level could be above the FULL COLD level.
5-25

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-59.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn off the air conditioning.
3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for
three minutes while you are parked. Push down
the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as
fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you are parked. If you still have the warning,
turn off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle
until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-28

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ller neck.
Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ow out of the
ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
to secure it tightly.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
5-33

After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear ination pressures as shown on the Tire and
Loading Information label. For the location of the tire
and loading information label seeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 4-52. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened, see “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 5-102for the
proper wheel nut torque specication.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which
it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become
loose after a time. The wheel could come off and
cause an accident. When you change a wheel,
remove any rust or dirt from places where the
wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency,
you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this;
but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush
later, if needed, to get all the rust or dirt off.
SeeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-73.
Any time you rotate the vehicle’s tires the Tire Pressure
Monitor System (TPMS) will need to be reset. The TPMS
identication codes will need to be matched to tire and
wheel position. See “TPMS Sensor Identication Codes”
underTire Pressure Monitor System on page 5-61.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of
tread remaining.
Some commercial truck
tires may not have
treadwear indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
5-65

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer.
Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-72

6. Remove all the wheel
nuts and take off the
at tire.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get
all the rust or dirt off.7. Remove any rust or dirt
from the wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
8. Put the spare tire on the mounting surface.
9. Put the wheel nuts back on with the rounded end of
the nuts toward the wheel after mounting the spare.
5-80

Fabric/Carpet
Use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment
frequently to remove dust and loose dirt. A canister
vacuum with a beater bar in the nozzle may only be used
on oor carpet and carpeted oor mats. For soils, always
try to remove them rst with plain water or club soda.
Before cleaning, gently remove as much of the soil as
possible using one of the following techniques:
For liquids: gently blot the remaining soil with a paper
towel. Allow the soil to absorb into the paper towel
until no more can be removed.
For solid dry soils: remove as much as possible and
then vacuum.
To clean, use the following instructions:
1. Saturate a lint-free, clean white cloth with water or
club soda.
2. Wring the cloth to remove excess moisture.
3. Start on the outside edge of the soil and gently rub
toward the center. Continue cleaning, using a clean
area of the cloth each time it becomes soiled.
4. Continue to gently rub the soiled area until the
cleaning cloth remains clean.
5. If the soil is not completely removed, use a mild
soap solution and repeat the cleaning process
that was used with plain water.If any of the soil remains, a commercial fabric cleaner or
spot lifter may be necessary. When a commercial
upholstery cleaner or spot lifter is to be used, test a
small hidden area for colorfastness rst. If the locally
cleaned area gives any impression that a ring formation
may result, clean the entire surface.
After the cleaning process has been completed, a paper
towel can be used to blot excess moisture from the
fabric or carpet.
Leather
A soft cloth dampened with water may be used to
remove dust. If a more thorough cleaning is necessary,
a soft cloth dampened with a mild soap solution can
be used. Allow the leather to dry naturally. Do not use
heat to dry. Never use steam to clean leather.
Never use spot lifters or spot removers on leather.
Many commercial leather cleaners and coatings that are
sold to preserve and protect leather may permanently
change the appearance and feel of your leather and are
not recommended. Do not use silicone or wax-based
products, or those containing organic solvents to clean
your vehicle’s interior because they can alter the
appearance by increasing the gloss in a non-uniform
manner. Never use shoe polish on your leather.
5-87

Washing Your Vehicle
The paint nish on the vehicle provides beauty, depth of
color, gloss retention, and durability.
The best way to preserve the vehicle’s nish is to keep it
clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water.
Do not wash the vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Do not use strong soaps
or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well,
removing all soap residue completely. GM-approved
cleaning products can be obtained from your dealer.
SeeVehicle Care/Appearance Materials on page 5-93.
Do not use cleaning agents that are petroleum
based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning
agents should be ushed promptly and not allowed
to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the nish
with a soft, clean chamois or an all-cotton towel to
avoid surface scratches and water spotting.
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter
the vehicle.
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a
car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses.
Follow instructions underWashing Your Vehicle on
page 5-89.
Finish Care
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by
hand may be necessary to remove residue from the
paint nish. You can get GM-approved cleaning products
from your dealer. SeeVehicle Care/Appearance
Materials on page 5-93.
If your vehicle has a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint nish,
the clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored
basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are
non-abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat
paint nish.
Notice:Machine compounding or aggressive
polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint nish may
damage it. Use only non-abrasive waxes and
polishes that are made for a basecoat/clearcoat
paint nish on your vehicle.
5-89