2006 CHEVROLET AVALANCHE change wheel

Approaching a Hill
When you approach a hill, you need to decide if it is
one of those hills that is just too steep to climb, descend,
or cross. Steepness can be hard to judge. On a very
small hill, for example, there may be a smooth, constant
incline with only a small change in elevation where
you can easily see all the way to the top. On a large hill,
the incline may get steeper as you near the top, but
you may not see this because the crest of the hill
is hidden by bushes, grass, or shrubs.
Here are some other things to consider as you approach
a hill.
Is there a constant incline, or does the hill get
sharply steeper in places?
Is there good traction on the hillside, or will the
surface cause tire slipping?
Is there a straight path up or down the hill so you
will not have to make turning maneuvers?
Are there obstructions on the hill that can block your
path, such as boulders, trees, logs, or ruts?
What is beyond the hill? Is there a cliff, an
embankment, a drop-off, a fence? Get out and walk
the hill if you do not know. It is the smart way to
nd out.
Is the hill simply too rough? Steep hills often have
ruts, gullies, troughs, and exposed rocks because
they are more susceptible to the effects of erosion.
Driving Uphill
Once you decide you can safely drive up the hill, you
need to take some special steps.
Use a low gear and get a rm grip on the steering
wheel.
Get a smooth start up the hill and try to maintain
your speed. Do not use more power than you
need, because you do not want your wheels to start
spinning or sliding.
Try to drive straight up the hill if at all possible. If
the path twists and turns, you might want to nd
another route.
{CAUTION:
Turning or driving across steep hills can be
dangerous. You could lose traction, slide
sideways, and possibly roll over. You could be
seriously injured or killed. When driving up
hills, always try to go straight up.
4-22

Driving in Mud, Sand, Snow, or Ice
When you drive in mud, snow, or sand, the wheels will
not get good traction. You cannot accelerate as
quickly, turning is more difficult, and you will need longer
braking distances. If your vehicle has four-wheel
drive, seeFour-Wheel Drive on page 2-35for transfer
case mode selection.
It is best to use a low gear when you are in mud — the
deeper the mud, the lower the gear. In really deep
mud, the idea is to keep your vehicle moving so you do
not get stuck.
When you drive on sand, you will sense a change in
wheel traction. But it will depend upon how loosely
packed the sand is. On loosely packed sand, such as
on beaches or sand dunes, the tires will tend to sink into
the sand. This has an effect on steering, accelerating,
and braking. Drive at a reduced speed and avoid sharp
turns or abrupt maneuvers.
Hard packed snow and ice offer the worst tire traction.
On these surfaces, it is very easy to lose control.
On wet ice, for example, the traction is so poor that you
will have difficulty accelerating. And if you do get
moving, poor steering and difficult braking can cause
you to slide out of control.{CAUTION:
Driving on frozen lakes, ponds, or rivers can
be dangerous. Underwater springs, currents
under the ice, or sudden thaws can weaken the
ice. Your vehicle could fall through the ice and
you and your passengers could drown. Drive
your vehicle on safe surfaces only.
4-29

Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
4-70

How to Check Lubricant
To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a
level surface.
The proper level for the 1500 Series is from 5/8 inch
to 1 5/8 inch (15 mm to 40 mm) below the bottom of
the ller plug hole, located on the rear axle. The
proper level for the 2500 Series is from 0 to 1/2 inch
(0 to 13 mm) below the bottom of the ller plug
hole. Add only enough uid to reach the proper level.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what
kind of lubricant to use. SeeRecommended Fluids
and Lubricants on page 6-12.
Four-Wheel Drive
Transfer Case
It is not necessary to regularly check transfer case uid
unless you suspect there is a leak or you hear an
unusual noise. A uid loss could indicate a problem.
Have it inspected and repaired.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how
often to change the lubricant. SeeScheduled
Maintenance on page 6-4.
1500 Series shown, 2500 Series similar
5-52

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened.
See “Wheel Nut Torque” underCapacities and
Specications on page 5-122.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if needed, to get all
the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a Flat Tire on
page 5-84.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it is
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of tread
remaining. Some
commercial truck tires may
not have treadwear
indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge, or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut, or other damage that
cannot be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
5-77

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you are driving,
especially if you maintain your vehicle’s tires properly.
If air goes out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out
slowly. But if you should ever have a blowout, here
are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that pulls
the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would
use in a skid. In any rear blowout remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use the
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
Changing a Flat Tire
If a tire goes at, avoid further tire and wheel damage
by driving slowly to a level place. Turn on your
hazard warning ashers. SeeHazard Warning Flashers
on page 3-6for more information.
5-84

{CAUTION:
Changing a tire can be dangerous. The vehicle
can slip off the jack and roll over or fall on you
or other people. You and they could be badly
injured or even killed. Find a level place to
change your tire. To help prevent the vehicle
from moving:
1. Set the parking brake rmly.
2. Put the shift lever in PARK (P).
3. If you have a four-wheel-drive vehicle,
be sure the transfer case is in a drive
gear — not in NEUTRAL.
4. Turn off the engine and do not restart
while the vehicle is raised.
5. Do not allow passengers to remain in the
vehicle.
6. Put the wheel blocks at the front and rear
of the tire farthest away from the one
being changed. That would be the tire
on the other side, at the opposite end of
the vehicle.When your vehicle has a at tire, use the following
example as a guide to assist you in the placement of
wheel blocks.
The following information will tell you how to use the
jack and change a tire.
5-85

The tools for changing a at tire are located in the
passenger’s side top-box storage unit.
To remove the tools, do the following:
1. Open the top door on the passenger’s side top-box
storage unit. Use the ignition/door key to unlock it if
it is locked. SeeTop-Box Storage on page 2-82
for more information.
2. Remove the black pouch from the storage box.
You now have all of the tools you will need to
lower the spare tire and change a at.
You will use the jack handle extensions and the wheel
wrench to remove the underbody-mounted spare tire.A. Spare Tire (Valve Stem
Pointed Down)
B. Hoist Assembly
C. Hoist Cable
D. Tire Retainer
E. Hoist Shaft
F. Hoist End of Extension ToolG. Hoist Shaft
Access Hole
H. Wheel Wrench
I. Jack Handle
Extensions
J. Spare Tire Lock
(If Equipped)
Follow these instructions to lower the spare tire:
1. Your vehicle may be equipped with a spare tire
lock (J). Open the spare tire lock cover on the
bumper and use the ignition key to remove the lock. Top-Box Storage Unit (Passenger’s Side)
5-87