2005 GMC CANYON tow

A. Windshield Washer Fluid. See “Adding Washer
Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid on page 5-36.
B. Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-25.
C. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (low in engine
compartment). SeePower Steering Fluid on
page 5-35.
D. Transmission Fluid Dipstick. SeeAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-19andManual
Transmission Fluid on page 5-22.
E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
F. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-37.
G. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-40.
H. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).
SeeHydraulic Clutch on page 5-24.
I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
J. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
K. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System on
page 5-30.L. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-41.
M. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-41.
N. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-100.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-13

{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/lter
off can cause you or others to be burned.
The air cleaner not only cleans the air; it helps
to stop ame if the engine backres. If it is
not there and the engine backres, you could
be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/lter off.
Notice:If the air cleaner/lter is off, a backre can
cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt can
easily get into your engine, which will damage it.
Always have the air cleaner/lter in place when you
are driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the uid and lter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the uid and lter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
5-19

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
handle has this symbol
on it.The transmission dipstick is located toward the rear of
the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of
the vehicle. SeeEngine Compartment Overview
on page 5-12for more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The uid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-21

What to Use
Use a mixture of one-half clean, drinkable water and
one-half DEX-COOL®coolant which will not damage
aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you do
not need to add anything else.
{CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling
system can be dangerous. Plain water, or
some other liquid such as alcohol, can boil
before the proper coolant mixture will. Your
vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the
proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the
wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot
but you would not get the overheat warning.
Your engine could catch re and you or others
could be burned. Use a 50/50 mixture of clean,
drinkable water and the proper coolant.Notice:If you use an improper coolant mixture,
your engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost would not be covered by your
warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze
and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and
other parts.
Notice:If you use the proper coolant, you do not
have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim
to improve the system. These can be harmful.Checking Coolant
The coolant recovery tank
is located toward the rear
of the engine compartment
on the passenger’s side
of the vehicle. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview
on page 5-12for more
information on location.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL
COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm,
the level could be above the FULL COLD level.
5-26

If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-56.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn off the air conditioning.
3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the windows as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning does not come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your
vehicle right away.
If there is still no sign of steam, idle the engine for
three minutes while you are parked. Push down
the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as
fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes
while you are parked. If you still have the warning,turn
off the engine and get everyone out of the vehicle
until it cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
5-29

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ller neck.
Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ow out of
the ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure to
secure it tightly.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan.
When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to
provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday
driving conditions, the clutch is not engaged.
This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise.
Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high
outside temperatures, the fan speed increases when
the clutch engages. So you may hear an increase in fan
noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as
the transmission slipping or making extra shifts.
It is merely the cooling system functioning properly.
The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not
required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
5-34

To replace the bulbs, do the following:
1. Open and support the hood. SeeHood Release
on page 5-11.
2. Access the bulb/sockets from the engine
compartment.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it
straight out of the headlamp housing.
4. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb.
5. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb.
Use care not to touch the new bulb with your
bare hand, anything damp or oily.
6. Place the connector with the new bulb into the
headlamp housing and turn it clockwise until it
is tight.Sealed Beam Headlamps
To replace the headlamp capsule, do the following:
1. Remove the four retainer screws and the retainer.
2. Pull the headlamp capsule toward you and
unplug the electrical connector from it.
3. Remove the old headlamp capsule.
4. Plug the electrical connector into the new headlamp
capsule.
5. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to reinstall the headlamp.
5-48

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Daytime Running Lamps
1. Remove the turn signal/parking lamp/daytime
running lamp (DRL) assembly by pressing on the
release clip on the outboard side of the housing and
pulling the outboard end of the lamp toward you.
2. Pull the inboard side of the lamp out from the small
post in the grille.
3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove
it from the lamp housing.4. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket.
5. Insert the new bulb into the bulb socket.
6. Insert the bulb socket into the lamp housing and
turn it clockwise until it is tight.
7. Place the inboard end of the turn signal/parking
lamp/DRL housing over the small post in the grille.
8. Align the release clip of the lamp assembly with the
square opening in the grille.
9. Push the outboard side of the lamp assembly in,
until the release clip snaps into place.
5-49