CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Front End Clunk Or Snap
On Turns1. Loose lug nuts 1. Verify wheel lug nut torque
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
3. Worn or loose tie rod 3. Tighten or replace tie rod end
4. Worn or loose ball joint 4. Tighten or replace ball joint
5. Worn/loose control arm bushing 5. Replace control arm bushing
6. Loose stabilizer bar. 6. Tighten stabilizer bar to specified
torque
7. Loose strut mount to body
attachment7. Tighten strut attachment to specified
torque
8. Loose crossmember bolts 8. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
Front End Whine With
Vehicle Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Defective wheel bearing 1. Replace wheel bearing
2. Incorrect wheel alignment 2. Check and reset wheel alignment
3. Worn tires 3. Replace tires
4. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings4. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Growl Or
Grinding With Vehicle
Going Straight At A
Constant Speed1. Engine mount grounding 1. Reposition engine as required
2. Worn or broken C/V joint 2. Replace C/V joint
Front End Whine When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings1. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
Front End Clunk When
Accelerating Or
Decelerating1. Worn or broken engine mount 1. Replace engine mount
2. Worn or defective transaxle gears or
bearings2. Replace transaxle gears or bearings
3. Loose lug nuts 3. Verify wheel lug nut torque
4. Worn or broken C/V joint 4. Replace C/V joint
5. Worn or loose ball joint 5. Tighten or replace ball joint
6. Worn or loose control arm bushing 6. Replace control arm bushing
7. Loose crossmember bolts 7. Tighten crossmember bolts to
specified torque
8. Worn tie rod end 8. Replace tie rod end
Road Wander 1. Incorrect tire pressure 1. Inflate tires to recommended pressure
2. Incorrect front or rear wheel toe 2. Check and reset wheel toe
3. Worn wheel bearings 3. Replace wheel bearing
4. Worn control arm bushings 4. Replace control arm bushing
5. Excessive friction in steering gear 5. Replace steering gear
6. Excessive friction in steering shaft
coupling6. Replace steering coupler
7. Excessive friction in strut upper
bearing7. Replace strut bearing
RSWHEEL ALIGNMENT2-51
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PEDAL PULSATES/
SURGES DURING
BRAKING1. Rear brake drum out of round or
disc brake rotor has excessive
thickness variation.1. Isolate condition as rear or front.
Reface or replace brake drums or
rotors as necessary.
PEDAL IS SPONGY 1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes.
2. Power brake booster runout
(vacuum assist).2. Check booster vacuum hose and
engine tune for adequate vacuum
supply. Refer to power brake booster
diagnosis and testing.
PREMATURE REAR
WHEEL LOCKUP1. Contaminated brake shoe linings. 1. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
2. Inoperative proportioning valve
(non-ABS vehicles).2. Refer to proportioning valve
diagnosis and testing. Replace valve as
necessary.
3. Improper power brake booster
assist.3. Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
STOP/BRAKE LAMPS
S TAY O N1. Brake lamp switch out of
adjustment.1. Replace brake lamp switch.
2. Brake pedal binding. 2. Inspect and replace as necessary.
3. Obstruction in pedal linkage. 3. Remove obstruction.
4. Power Brake Booster not allowing
pedal to return completely.4. Replace power brake booster.
VEHICLE PULLS TO
RIGHT OR LEFT ON
BRAKING1. Frozen brake caliper piston. 1. Replace frozen piston or caliper.
Bleed brakes.
2. Contaminated brake shoe lining. 2. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
3. Pinched brake lines. 3. Replace pinched line.
4. Leaking piston seal. 4. Replace piston seal or brake caliper.
5. Suspension problem. 5. Refer to the Suspension group.
PARKING BRAKE -
EXCESSIVE HANDLE
TRAVEL1. Rear drum brakes or rear disc
brake parking brake shoes out of
adjustment.1. Adjust rear drum brake shoes, or
rear parking brake shoes on vehicles
with rear disc brakes.
RSBRAKES - BASE5-7
BRAKES - BASE (Continued)
As disc brake shoe linings wear, master cylinder
reservoir brake fluid level will drop. Adjust as neces-
sary. Fluid level should always be checked after
replacing shoes.
OPERATION - DISC BRAKES (REAR)
The rear disc brakes operate similarly to front disc
brakes, however, there are some features that require
different service procedures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - DRUM BRAKE
AUTOMATIC ADJUSTER
The rear drum brakes on this vehicle automatically
adjust when required during the normal operation of
the vehicle every time the brakes are applied. Use
the following procedure to test the operation of the
automatic adjuster.
Place the vehicle on a hoist with a helper in the
driver's seat to apply the brakes. Remove the access
plug from the adjustment hole in each brake support
plate to provide visual access of the brake adjuster
star wheel.
To eliminate the condition where maximum adjust-
ment of the rear brake shoes does not allow the auto-
matic adjuster to operate when tested, back the star
wheel off approximately 30 notches. It will be neces-
sary to hold the adjuster lever away from the star
wheel to permit this adjustment.
Have the helper apply the brakes. Upon applica-
tion of the brake pedal, the adjuster lever should
move down, turning the adjuster star wheel. Thus, a
definite rotation of the adjuster star wheel can be
observed if the automatic adjuster is working prop-
erly. If one or more adjusters do not function prop-
erly, the respective drum must be removed for
adjuster servicing.
BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
The brake tubes are steel with a corrosion-resis-
tant nylon coating applied to the external surfaces.
The flex hoses are made of reinforced rubber with fit-
tings at each end.
The primary and secondary brake tubes leading
from the master cylinder to the ABS ICU Hydraulic
Control Unit (HCU) or the non-ABS junction block
have a special flexible section. This flexible section is
required due to cradle movement while the vehicle is
in motion (The ICU and non-ABS junction block are
mounted to the cradle).If replacement of these
lines is necessary, only the original factory
brake line containing the flexible section must
be used.
OPERATION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
The purpose of the chassis brake tubes and flex
hoses is to transfer the pressurized brake fluid devel-
oped by the master cylinder to the wheel brakes of
the vehicle. The flex hoses are made of rubber to
allow for the movement of the vehicle's suspension.
INSPECTION - BRAKE TUBES AND HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle. Inspection of brake hoses
should be performed whenever the brake system is
serviced and every 7,500 miles or 12 months, which-
ever comes first (every engine oil change). Inspect
hydraulic brake hoses for surface cracking, scuffing,
or worn spots. If the fabric casing of the rubber hose
becomes exposed due to cracks or abrasions in the
rubber hose cover, the hose should be replaced imme-
diately. Eventual deterioration of the hose can take
place with possible burst failure. Faulty installation
can cause twisting, resulting in wheel, tire, or chassis
interference.
The brake tubing should be inspected periodically
for evidence of physical damage or contact with mov-
ing or hot components.
The flexible brake tube sections used on this vehi-
cle in the primary and secondary tubes from the
master cylinder to the ABS hydraulic control unit
connections must also be inspected. This flexible tub-
ing must be inspected for kinks, fraying and contact
with other components or with the body of the vehi-
cle.
Fig. 10 Caliper Piston Seal Function For Automatic
Adjustment
1 - PISTON
2 - CYLINDER BORE
3 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE OFF
4 - CALIPER HOUSING
5 - DUST BOOT
6 - PISTON SEAL BRAKE PRESSURE ON
5 - 14 BRAKES - BASERS
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL (Continued)
FLUID
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE FLUID
CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts.
Swollen rubber parts indicate the presence of
petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If fluid sepa-
rates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush system. Replace master cylinder, propor-
tioning valve, caliper seals, wheel cylinder seals,
Antilock Brake hydraulic unit and all hydraulic fluid
hoses.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BRAKE FLUID
LEVEL CHECKING
Check master cylinder reservoir fluid level a mini-
mum of twice annually.
Fluid reservoirs are marked with the words FULL
and ADD to indicate proper brake fluid fill level of
the master cylinder.
If necessary, add brake fluid to bring the level to
the bottom of the FULL mark on the side of the mas-
ter cylinder fluid reservoir.
Use only Mopartbrake fluid or equivalent from a
sealed container. Brake fluid must conform to DOT 3
specifications (DOT 4 or DOT 4+ are acceptable).
DO NOTuse brake fluid with a lower boiling
point, as brake failure could result during prolonged
hard braking.
Use only brake fluid that was stored in a tightly-
sealed container.
DO NOTuse petroleum-based fluid because seal
damage will result. Petroleum based fluids would be
items such as engine oil, transmission fluid, power
steering fluid etc.
SPECIFICATIONS
BRAKE FLUID
The brake fluid used in this vehicle must conform
to DOT 3 specifications (DOT 4 and DOT 4+ are
acceptable) and SAE J1703 standards. No other type
of brake fluid is recommended or approved for usage
in the vehicle brake system. Use only MopartBrake
Fluid or equivalent from a tightly sealed container.CAUTION: Never use reclaimed brake fluid or fluid
from an container which has been left open. An
open container of brake fluid will absorb moisture
from the air and contaminate the fluid.
CAUTION: Never use any type of a petroleum-based
fluid in the brake hydraulic system. Use of such
type fluids will result in seal damage of the vehicle
brake hydraulic system causing a failure of the
vehicle brake system. Petroleum based fluids would
be items such as engine oil, transmission fluid,
power steering fluid, etc.
JUNCTION BLOCK
DESCRIPTION - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
A junction block is used on vehicles that are not
equipped with antilock brakes (ABS). The junction
block mounts in the same location as the integrated
control unit (ICU) does on vehicles equipped with
ABS. This allows for use of the same brake tube con-
figuration on all vehicles. The junction block is
located on the driver's side of the front suspension
cradle/crossmember below the master cylinder (Fig.
44).
It has six threaded ports to which the brake tubes
connect. Two are for the primary and secondary
brake tubes coming from the master cylinder. The
remaining four are for the chassis brake tubes going
to each brake assembly.
OPERATION - NON-ABS JUNCTION BLOCK
The junction block distributes the brake fluid com-
ing from the master cylinder primary and secondary
ports to the four chassis brake tubes leading to the
brakes at each wheel. Since the junction block
mounts in the same location as the ABS integrated
control unit (ICU), it allows for the common use of
brake tubes going to the brakes whether the vehicle
is equipped with or without ABS.
NOTE: Although the brake tubes coming from the
master cylinder to the junction block or ABS ICU
may appear to be the same, they are not. They are
unique to each brake system application.
RSBRAKES - BASE5-33
(7) Connect the brake pedal link to the torque
shaft. Install a NEW retaining clip at the torque
shaft end of the brake pedal-to-torque shaft link.
(8) Install the HVAC housing. (Refer to 24 - HEAT-
ING & AIR CONDITIONING/DISTRIBUTION/HVAC
HOUSING - INSTALLATION)
(9) Install the instrument panel. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY - INSTALLATION)
CAUTION: Do not reuse the original brake lamp
switch. The switch can only be adjusted once. That
is during initial installation of the switch. If the
switch is not adjusted properly or has been
removed for some service, a new switch must be
installed and adjusted.
(10) Remove and replace the brake lamp switch
with a NEW switch. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - REMOVAL), (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
LAMPS/LIGHTING - EXTERIOR/BRAKE LAMP
SWITCH - INSTALLATION)
(11) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
the brakes.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
DESCRIPTION
The power brake booster mounts on the engine
compartment side of the dash panel. It is connected
to the brake pedal by the input (push) rod (Fig. 64).
The master cylinder is bolted to the front of the
booster. A vacuum line connects the power brake
booster to the intake manifold.
All Left-Hand-Drive (LHD) vehicles use a 270 mm
single diaphragm vacuum power brake booster. All
Right-Hand-Drive (RHD) vehicles use a 225/200 mm
tandem diaphragm vacuum power brake booster.
Vehicles equipped with Disc/Disc brakes use a dif-
ferent power brake booster than vehicles equipped
with Disc/Drum brakes. Differences between the two
are internal. Service is the same for all boosters.
The power brake booster can be identified by the
tag attached to the body of the booster (Fig. 65). This
tag contains the production part number, the date it
was built, and who the manufacturer of the power
brake booster is.
NOTE: The power brake booster assembly is not a
repairable component and must be replaced as a
complete assembly if found to be faulty in any way.
The check valve located on the power brake
booster face is not repairable, but it can be
replaced separately from the power brake booster.The different engine combinations used in this
vehicle require different vacuum hose routings to the
power brake booster. All vacuum hoses must be
routed from the engine to the power brake booster
without kinks or excessively tight bends.
Fig. 64 Power Brake Booster (Typical)
1 - VACUUM CHECK VALVE
2 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY
3 - INPUT ROD
4 - POWER BOOSTER ASSEMBLY TO DASH PANEL MOUNTING
STUDS (4)
5 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUDS (2)
6 - OUTPUT ROD
Fig. 65 MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOSTER
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
RSBRAKES - BASE5-45
PEDAL TORQUE SHAFT - RHD (Continued)
OPERATION
The power brake booster reduces the amount of
force required by the driver to obtain the necessary
hydraulic pressure to stop a vehicle.
The power brake booster is vacuum operated. The
vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the
engine through a vacuum hose and the power brake
booster check valve (Fig. 64).
As the brake pedal is depressed, the power brake
booster's input rod moves forward (Fig. 64). This
opens and closes valves in the power booster allowing
atmospheric pressure to enter on one side of a dia-
phragm. Engine vacuum is always present on the
other side. This difference in pressure forces the out-
put rod of the power brake booster out against the
primary piston of the master cylinder. As the pistons
in the master cylinder move forward this creates the
hydraulic pressure in the brake system.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If the
pedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
If the vacuum supply is 12 inches Hg (40.5 kPa) or
more, the power brake booster is defective and must
be replaced. If the vacuum supply is below 12 inches
Hg, continue on with this BASIC TEST.
(6) Shut off the engine.
(7) Connect the vacuum gauge to the vacuum ref-
erence port on the engine intake manifold.
(8) Start the engine and observe the vacuum
gauge.
If the vacuum is still low, check the engine tune
and repair as necessary. If the vacuum is above 12
inches Hg, the hose or check valve to the booster has
a restriction or leak.
Once an adequate vacuum supply is obtained,
repeat the BASIC TEST.
VACUUM LEAK TEST
(1) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the vacuum
check valve, then place a vacuum gauge in line
between the vacuum hose and the valve.
(2) Start the engine.
(3) Allow the engine to warm up to normal operat-
ing temperature and engine idle.
(4) Using vacuum line pliers, close off the vacuum
supply hose near the booster, but before the vacuum
gauge, then observe the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 1.0 inch Hg (3.3 kPa)
in one minute, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 1.0
inch Hg in one minute time span. If the loss is more
than 1.0 inch Hg, replace the power brake booster. If
it is not, continue on with this test.
(5) Remove the pliers from the hose temporarily.
(6) Apply light effort (approximately 15 lbs. of
force) to the brake pedal and hold the pedal steady.
Do not move the pedal once the pressure is applied
or the test results may vary.
(7) Have an assistant reattach the vacuum line
pliers to the vacuum supply hose.
(8) Allow 5 seconds for stabilization, then observe
the vacuum gauge.
If the vacuum drop exceeds 3.0 inches Hg (10 kPa)
in 15 seconds, repeat the above steps to confirm the
reading. The vacuum loss should be less than 3.0
inches Hg in 15 seconds time span. If the loss is
more than 3.0 inches Hg, replace the power brake
booster. If it is not, the booster is not defective.
(9) Remove the pliers and vacuum gauge.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - LHD
CAUTION: Reserve vacuum in power brake booster
must be pumped down (removed) before removing
master cylinder from booster. This is necessary to
prevent booster from sucking in any contamination
as master cylinder is removed. This can be done
simply by pumping the brake pedal, with the vehi-
cle's engine not running, until a firm feeling brake
pedal is achieved.
(1) With engine not running, pump the brake
pedal until a firm pedal is achieved (4-5 strokes).
(2) Remove negative battery cable terminal from
battery.
(3) Remove positive battery cable terminal from
battery.
(4) Remove battery thermal guard shield.
(5) Remove battery clamp, nut and battery from
the battery tray.
5 - 46 BRAKES - BASERS
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
(6) Remove screw securing engine coolant filler
tube to battery tray.
(7) If the vehicle is equipped with speed control,
disconnect the vacuum hose at the vacuum tank built
into the battery tray.
(8) Remove the two nuts and one bolt securing bat-
tery tray in place. Remove battery tray.
(9) If vehicle is equipped with speed control:
(a) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
the speed control servo.
(b) Remove the two servo mounting nuts.
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(10) Remove the wiper module (unit). (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER MOD-
ULE - REMOVAL)
(11) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 66).
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(12) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.(13) Disconnect primary and secondary brake
tubes from ABS integrated control unit or non-ABS
junction block (Fig. 67). Install sealing plugs in the
now open brake tube ports and install caps on ends
of tubes.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake
tubes from the master cylinder when removing the
master cylinder from the vacuum booster.
(14) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 67).
(15) Slide master cylinder straight out of power
brake booster. Remove master cylinder with primary
and secondary tubes from vehicle.
CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever the
master cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
(16) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve
located on vacuum booster.DO NOT REMOVE
CHECK VALVE FROM POWER BRAKE
BOOSTER.
Fig. 66 Master Cylinder And Booster
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BOOSTER IDENTIFICATION LABEL
3 - FLUID LEVEL SWITCH CONNECTOR
4 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
5 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
6 - MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 67 Master Cylinder Mounting
1 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING NUTS
2 - MASTER CYLINDER
3 - SECONDARY TUBE NUT AT ICU
4 - PRIMARY TUBE NUT AT ICU
RSBRAKES - BASE5-47
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)
(c) Lay speed control servo off to the side, out of
the way.
(9) If the vehicle is equipped with the 2.5L diesel
engine, remove the coolant recovery pressure con-
tainer and bracket. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/
COOLANT RECOVERY PRESS CONTAINER -
REMOVAL)
(10) Disconnect wiring harness connector from
brake fluid level switch in master cylinder fluid res-
ervoir (Fig. 71).
CAUTION: Before removing the master cylinder
from the power brake vacuum booster, the master
cylinder and vacuum booster must be thoroughly
cleaned. This must be done to prevent dirt particles
from falling into the power brake vacuum booster.
(11) Clean area where master cylinder assembly
attaches to power brake booster. Use only a solvent
such as MopartBrake Parts Cleaner or equivalent.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the brake
tubes from the master cylinder when removing the
master cylinder from the booster.
(12) Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to
power brake booster (Fig. 72).
(13) Slide master cylinder straight out of power
brake booster. Lay master cylinder with primary and
secondary tubes to the side, out of the way.
CAUTION: A seal on the rear of the master cylinder
is used to create the seal for holding vacuum in the
power brake vacuum booster. The vacuum seal on
the master cylinder MUST be replaced whenever themaster cylinder is removed from the power brake
vacuum booster.
(14) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve
located on booster.DO NOT REMOVE CHECK
VALVE FROM POWER BRAKE BOOSTER.
(15) Under the instrument panel, remove booster
input rod trim cover.
(16) Locate the booster input rod to brake pedal
torque shaft connection under the instrument panel.
Position a small screwdriver between the center tang
on the retaining clip (Fig. 73).
Fig. 71 RHD Master Cylinder And Power Brake
Booster
1 - POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
2 - BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
3 - FLUID RESERVOIR
4 - MASTER CYLINDER
Fig. 72 RHD Master Cylinder Mounting
1 - PRIMARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
2 - SECONDARY BRAKE TUBE NUT
3 - MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING NUTS
Fig. 73 Booster Input Rod Pin Retaining Clip
(Typical)
1 - BRAKE PEDAL
2 - INPUT ROD
3 - SCREWDRIVER
4 - RETAINING CLIP
5 - BRAKE PEDAL PIN
RSBRAKES - BASE5-49
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)