2005 CHRYSLER CARAVAN clock

INSTALLATION
(1) Route and position the drive belt onto all pul-
leys, except for the crankshaft (Fig. 10).
(2) Rotate belt tensioner counterclockwise until
belt can be installed onto the crankshaft pulley (Fig.
9). Slowly release belt tensioner.
(3) Verify belt is properly routed and engaged on
all pulleys (Fig. 11).
(4) Install drive belt shield (Fig. 8) and lower vehi-
cle.
BELT TENSIONER - 3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL
(1) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(2) Remove the drive belt shield.
(3) Remove the drive belt. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL)
(4) Remove the belt tensioner (Fig. 12).
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the belt tensioner and bolt (Fig. 12).
Tighten bolt to 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
(2) Install the drive belt. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - INSTALLA-
TION)
(3) Install the drive belt shield.
(4) Lower the vehicle.
Fig. 10 ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
1 - DRIVE BELT
2 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
3 - BELT TENIONER PULLEY
4 - IDLER PULLEY
5 - GENERATOR PULLEY
6 - AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR PULLEY
7 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
8 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
Fig. 11 3.3/3.8L Belt Routing
1 - GENERATOR PULLEY
2 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
3 - CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
4 - TENSIONER PULLEY
5 - WATER PUMP PULLEY
6 - P/S PUMP PULLEY
7 - IDLER PULLEY
Fig. 12 BELT TENSIONER - 3.3/3.8L
1 - BELT TENSIONER
2 - BOLT
7 - 12 ACCESSORY DRIVERS
DRIVE BELTS - 3.3/3.8L (Continued)

ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 2.4L
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system below the thermostat
level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove radiator upper hose from the coolant
outlet housing (Fig. 7).
(3) Remove coolant outlet housing bolts and hous-
ing (Fig. 8).
(4) Remove thermostat. Discard gasket and clean
both gasket sealing surfaces.
INSTALLATION
(1) Place a new gasket (dipped in clean water) on
the coolant outlet connector surface. Position thermo-
stat with air bleed at the 12 o'clock position in ther-
mostat housing (Fig. 8).
(2) Position the coolant outlet connector and gas-
ket over the thermostat, making sure thermostat is
seated in the thermostat housing.
(3) Position outlet connector to thermostat housing
and install bolts (Fig. 8). Tighten bolts to 28 N´m
(250 in. lbs.).
(4) Install the radiator upper hose to coolant outlet
housing (Fig. 7).
(5) Refill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
ENGINE COOLANT
THERMOSTAT - 3.3/3.8L
REMOVAL
(1) Drain cooling system down below the thermo-
stat level. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
(2) Remove radiator upper hose from coolant outlet
connector (Fig. 9).
Fig. 7 RADIATOR HOSES TO ENGINE - 2.4L
1 - UPPER HOSE
2 - LOWER HOSE
Fig. 8 Thermostat and Outlet Connector - 2.4L
Engine
1 - THERMOSTAT
2 - GASKET
3 - COOLANT OUTLET CONNECTOR
4 - BOLT
Fig. 9 RADIATOR HOSES TO ENGINE - 3.3/3.8L
1 - UPPER HOSE
2 - LOWER HOSE
7 - 24 ENGINERS

INSTALLATION
(1)Be sure the air seal is in position before
radiator is installed.Slide radiator down into posi-
tion. Seat the radiator with the rubber isolators into
the mounting holes provided, with a 10 lbs. force.
(2) Position air conditioning condenser onto the
radiator lower mounts and ingage upper mounting
tabs. (Fig. 15).
(3) Install the radiator upper and lower hoses (Fig.
13) or (Fig. 14).
(4) Connect the coolant reserve/recovery hose.
(5) Connect the vapor purge solenoid to the mount-
ing bracket.
(6) Install the radiator fans. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION)
(7) Install the radiator upper crossmember sup-
port. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/GRILLE
OPENING REINFORCEMENT - INSTALLATION)
(8) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(9) Connect negative cable to battery.
RADIATOR DRAINCOCK
REMOVAL
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove draincock dur-
ing a routine coolant drain.
(1) Drain the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
(2) Using a screwdriver, open the draincock by
turning it counterclockwise until it stops.
(3) Pull the draincock from the radiator tank.
INSTALLATION
(1) Align draincock stem to radiator tank opening.
(2) Push draincock into the radiator tank opening.
CAUTION: Do not overtighten. The head of the
draincock may break off.
(3) Using a screwdriver, tighten the draincock by
turning clockwise until it stops.
(4) Fill the cooling system. (Refer to 7 - COOLING
- STANDARD PROCEDURE)
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
The cooling system pressure cap is located on the
radiator. The cap construction includes; stainless
steel swivel top, rubber seals, and retainer, main
spring, and a spring loaded valve (Fig. 16).
OPERATION
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap
that releases excessive pressure; maintaining a range
of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).
The cooling system will operate at higher than
atmospheric pressure. The higher pressure raises the
coolant boiling point thus, allowing increased radia-
tor cooling capacity.
There is also a vent valve in the center of the cap.
This valve also opens when coolant is cooling and
contracting, allowing the coolant to return to cooling
system from coolant reserve system tank by vacuum
through a connecting hose.If valve is stuck shut,
or the coolant recovery hose is pinched, the
radiator hoses will be collapsed on cool down.
Clean the vent valve (Fig. 16) and inspect cool-
ant recovery hose routing, to ensure proper
sealing when boiling point is reached.
The gasket in the cap seals the filler neck, so that
vacuum can be maintained, allowing coolant to be
drawn back into the radiator from the reserve tank.
If the gasket is dirty or damaged, a vacuum
may not be achieved, resulting is loss of coolant
and eventual overheating due to low coolant
level in radiator and engine.
Fig. 16 Cooling System Pressure Cap Filler Neck
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - RADIATOR
8 - FILLER NECK
RSENGINE7-27
RADIATOR (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP TESTING
Dip the pressure cap in water. Clean any deposits
off the vent valve or its seat and apply cap to end of
the Pressure Cap Test Adaptor that is included with
the Cooling System Tester 7700 (Fig. 17). Working
the plunger, bring the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on
the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the pressure cap.
CAUTION: The Cooling System Tester Tool is very
sensitive to small air leaks that will not cause cool-
ing system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn tool
upside down and recheck pressure cap to confirm
that cap is bad.
If the pressure cap tests properly while positioned
on Cooling System Tester (Fig. 17), but will not hold
pressure or vacuum when positioned on the filler
neck. Inspect the filler neck and cap top gasket for
irregularities that may prevent the cap from sealing
properly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR CAP
TO FILLER NECK SEAL
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 18). Attach the
Radiator Pressure Tool to the filler neck nipple and
pump air into the radiator. Pressure cap upper gas-
ket should relieve at 69-124 kPa (10-18 psi) and hold
pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) minimum.WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS ªDO NOT OPEN
HOTº ON THE RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP IS A
SAFETY PRECAUTION. WHEN HOT, PRESSURE
BUILDS UP IN COOLING SYSTEM. TO PREVENT
SCALDING OR INJURY, THE RADIATOR CAP
SHOULD NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM
IS HOT OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the radiator cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
(1) Check and adjust coolant freeze point.
(2) Refill system with new coolant.
(3) Conducting service procedures.
(4) Checking for vacuum leaks.
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN RECENTLY,
WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING CAP. THEN
PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITH-
OUT PUSHING DOWN ROTATE COUNTERCLOCK-
WISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO
ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS PUSH DOWN AND REMOVE THE CAP COM-
PLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR INLET HOSE
WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK PRESSURE)
BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO THE FIRST
STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
CLEANING
Use only a mild soap to clean the pressure cap.
Fig. 17 Testing Cooling System Pressure Cap
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - PRESSURE TESTER
Fig. 18 Radiator Pressure Cap Filler Neck
1 - OVERFLOW NIPPLE
2 - MAIN SPRING
3 - GASKET RETAINER
4 - STAINLESS-STEEL SWIVEL TOP
5 - RUBBER SEALS
6 - VENT VALVE
7 - RADIATOR
8 - FILLER NECK
7 - 28 ENGINERS
RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP (Continued)

OPERATION
The radio receiver operates on ignition switched
battery current that is available only when the igni-
tion switch is in the On or Accessory/Accessory Delay
positions. The electronic digital clock function of the
radio operates on fused battery current supplied
through the IOD fuse, regardless of the ignition
switch position.
For complete circuit diagrams, refer to the appro-
priate wiring information.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
RADIO
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO ELECTRICAL, RESTRAINTS
BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL,
STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL
COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE
TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD
RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT
AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
Any diagnosis of the Audio system should
begin with the use of the DRB IIItdiagnostic
tool. For information on the use of the DRB
IIIt, refer to the appropriate Diagnostic Service
Manual.
Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
If the vehicle is equipped with remote radio
switches located on the back of the steering wheel
spokes, and the problem being diagnosed is related to
one of the symptoms listed below, be certain to check
the remote radio switches and circuits as described
in this group, prior to attempting radio diagnosis or
repair.
²Stations changing with no remote radio switch
input
²Radio memory presets not working properly
²Volume changes with no remote radio switch
input
²Remote radio switch buttons taking on other
functions
²CD player skipping tracks
²Remote radio switch inoperative.
CAUTION: The speaker output of the radio is a
ªfloating groundº system. Do not allow any speaker
lead to short to ground, as damage to the radio
may result.
(1) Check the fuse(s) in the junction block and the
Integrated Power Module (IPM). If OK, go to Step 2.
If not OK, repair the shorted circuit or component as
required and replace the faulty fuse(s).(2) Check for battery voltage at the fuse in the
(IPM). If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the open
circuit to the battery as required.
(3) Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Check for battery voltage at the fuse in the junction
block. If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open
circuit to the ignition switch as required.
(4) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Remove the radio, but do not unplug the wire har-
ness connectors. Check for continuity between the
radio chassis and a good ground. There should be
continuity. If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, repair the
open radio chassis ground circuit as required.
(5) Connect the battery negative cable. Turn the
ignition switch to the ON position. Check for battery
voltage at the fused ignition switch output circuit
cavity of the radio wire harness connector. If OK, go
to Step 6. If not OK, repair the open circuit as
required.
(6) Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Check for battery voltage at the fused B(+) circuit
cavity of the radio wire harness connector. If OK,
replace the faulty radio. If not OK, repair the open
circuit to the Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) fuse as
required.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove cup holder.
(3) Remove trim panel above cupholder by pulling
straight out.
(4) Remove center instrument panel trim panel.
(5) Remove screws holding radio to instrument
panel.
(6) Pull radio rearward to gain access to the back
of radio (Fig. 13).
Fig. 13 RADIO
1 - RADIO
2 - CD-PLAYER
8A - 14 AUDIO/VIDEORS
RADIO (Continued)

REMOTE SWITCHES
DESCRIPTION
Two rocker-type switches (if equipped) are mounted
on the back (instrument panel side) of the steering
wheel spokes (Fig. 15). The switch on the left spoke
is the seek switch and has seek up, seek down, and
preset station advance functions. The switch on the
right spoke is the volume control switch and has vol-
ume up, and volume down functions. The switch on
the right spoke also includes a ªmodeº control that
allows the driver to sequentially select AM radio, FM
radio, cassette player, CD player or CD changer (if
equipped).
OPERATION
These switches are resistor multiplexed units that
are hard-wired to the Body Control Module (BCM)
through the clockspring. The BCM sends the proper
messages on the Programmable Communications
Interface (PCI) data bus network to the radio
receiver. For diagnosis of the BCM or the PCI data
bus, the use of a DRB IIItscan tool and the proper
Diagnostic Procedures manual are recommended.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
REMOTE SWITCHES
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-
BAGS, REFER TO ELECTRICAL, RESTRAINTS
BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL,
STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL
COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE
TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD
RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT
AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
Any diagnosis of the Audio system should
begin with the use of the DRB IIItdiagnostic
tool. For information on the use of the DRB
IIIt, refer to the appropriate Diagnostic Service
Manual.
Refer to the appropriate wiring information.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the remote radio switch(es) from the
steering wheel (Fig. 16). (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
AUDIO/REMOTE SWITCHES - REMOVAL).
(3) Use an ohmmeter to check the switch resis-
tance as shown in the Remote Radio Switch Test
table.
Fig. 15 Remote Radio Switch Operational View
1 - PRESET SEEK
2 - SEEK UP
3 - VOLUME UP
4 - MODE
5 - VOLUME DOWN
6 - SEEK DOWN
Fig. 16 REMOTE RADIO SWITCHES
1 - BLACK (LEFT) SWITCH
2 - WHITE (RIGHT) SWITCH
8A - 16 AUDIO/VIDEORS

twenty amperes or more will require a shorter charg-
ing time.
²State-Of-Charge- A completely discharged bat-
tery requires more charging time than a partially
discharged battery. Electrolyte is nearly pure water
in a completely discharged battery. At first, the
charging current (amperage) will be low. As the bat-
tery charges, the specific gravity of the electrolyte
will gradually rise.
The Conventional Battery Charging Time Table
gives an indication of the time required to charge a
typical battery at room temperature based upon the
battery state-of-charge and the charger capacity.
CONVENTIONAL BATTERY CHARGING TIME TABLE
Charging
Amperage5 Amps10
Amps20 Amps
Open Circuit
VoltageHours Charging @ 21É C (70É
F)
12.25 to 12.49 6 hours 3 hours 1.5
hours
12.00 to 12.24 10 hours 5 hours 2.5
hours
10.00 to 11.99 14 hours 7 hours 3.5
hours
Below 10.00 18 hours 9 hours 4.5
hours
OPEN-CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST
A battery open-circuit voltage (no load) test will
show the approximate state-of-charge of a battery.
This test can be used if no other battery tester is
available.
Before proceeding with this test, completely charge
the battery. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY
SYSTEM/BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE) for
the proper battery charging procedures.
(1) Before measuring the open-circuit voltage, the
surface charge must be removed from the battery.
Turn on the headlamps for fifteen seconds, then
allow up to five minutes for the battery voltage to
stabilize.
(2) Disconnect and isolate both battery cables, neg-
ative cable first.
(3) Using a voltmeter connected to the battery
posts (see the instructions provided by the manufac-
turer of the voltmeter), measure the open-circuit volt-
age.
See the Open-Circuit Voltage Table. This voltage
reading will indicate the battery state-of-charge, but
will not reveal its cranking capacity. If a battery has
an open-circuit voltage reading of 12.4 volts or
greater, it may be load tested to reveal its crankingcapacity. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYS-
TEM/BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE -
USING THE MICRO 420 BATTERY TESTER) for
the proper battery load test procedures.
OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TABLE
Open Circuit Voltage Charge Percentage
11.7 volts or less 0%
12.0 volts 25%
12.2 volts 50%
12.45 volts 75%
12.65 volts or more 100%
IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a nor-
mal condition where power is being drained from the
battery with the ignition switch in the Off position. A
normal vehicle electrical system will draw from fif-
teen to twenty-five milliamperes (0.015 to 0.025
ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position,
and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper
working order. Up to twenty-five milliamperes are
needed to enable the memory functions for the Pow-
ertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electron-
ically tuned radio, and other modules which may
vary with the vehicle equipment.
A vehicle that has not been operated for approxi-
mately twenty-one days, may discharge the battery
to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be
used for twenty-one days or more (stored), remove
the IOD fuse from the Integrated Power Module
(IPM). This will reduce battery discharging.
Excessive IOD can be caused by:
²Electrical items left on.
²Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
²Faulty or shorted electronic modules and compo-
nents.
²An internally shorted generator.
²Intermittent shorts in the wiring.
If the IOD is over twenty-five milliamperes, the
problem must be found and corrected before replac-
ing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be
charged and returned to service after the excessive
IOD condition has been corrected.
(1) Verify that all electrical accessories are off.
Turn off all lamps, remove the ignition key, and close
all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illumi-
nated entry system or an electronically tuned radio,
allow the electronic timer function of these systems
to automatically shut off (time out). This may take
up to twenty minutes.
(2) Disconnect the battery negative cable.
RSBATTERY SYSTEM8F-13
BATTERY (Continued)

(8) Raise vehicle and support.
(9) Install the lower mounting bolt and tighten.
(10) Install the lower oil dip stick tube bolt and
tighten (Fig. 9).
(11) Install accessory drive belt, refer to the Cool-
ing System section for proper procedures.
(12) Install the right front lower splash shield.
(13) Lower vehicle.
(14) Install wiring harness to the oil dip stick tube
(15) Connect battery negative cable.
(16) Verify generator output rate.
GENERATOR DECOUPLER
PULLEY
DESCRIPTION
The Generator Decoupler is a one way clutch (Fig.
11). It is attached to the generator and replaces the
standard pulley. It is a non-serviceable item and is to
be replaced as an assembly. It is a dry operation (no
grease or lubricants). The operation of it is not tem-
perature sensitive and has a low sensitivity to elec-
trical load.
OPERATION
The generator decoupler is a one way clutch and
should be replaced as an assembly. It is designed to
help reduce belt tension fluctuation, reduce fatigue
loads, improve belt life, reduce hubloads on compo-
nents, and reduce noise.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - GENERATOR DECOUPLER PULLEY
CONDITION VERIFICATION PROCEDURE POSSIBLE
CAUSESCORRECTION
Does not drive generator
(Generator not Charging)1. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Clutch
failureReplace
Decoupler
2.Verify generator pulley is rotating.
3. View generator internal fins thru generator housing.
4. Fins either do not rotate or rotate very erratic.
5. Rotate decoupler pulley in clockwise direction then
quickly rotate in counterclockwise direction to see if
clutch engages.
Noise from generator at
engine shut down.1. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Defective
decoupler
pulley
bearing.Replace
decoupler
pulley.
2. Shutdown engine and listen to generator.
3. Noise heard just as engine stops. Sounds like a
click.
4. Remove accessory drive belt.
5. Verify rotation in counterclock wise direction is
rough.
Fig. 11 GENERATOR DECOUPLER 3.3/3.8L
8F - 28 CHARGINGRS
GENERATOR (Continued)