2005 CHEVROLET COLORADO steering

What is the worst time for this? Wet ice. Very cold snow
or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice
can be even more trouble because it may offer the least
traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is about
freezing, 32°F (0°C), and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews
can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing,
or loose snow — drive with caution.Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin
and polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti-lock brake system (ABS) improves your
vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road. Even though you have ABS, you will want
to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry
pavement. SeeAnti-Lock Brake System (ABS) on
page 4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any
slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne
until you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun cannot reach, such
as around clumps of trees, behind buildings,
or under bridges. Sometimes the surface of a
curve or an overpass may remain icy when the
surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of
ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not
to brake while you are actually on the ice, and
avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
4-37

If Your Vehicle is Stuck in Sand,
Mud, Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need to spin the wheels, but you do not want to
spin your wheels too fast. The method known as rocking
can help you get out when you are stuck, but you
must use caution.
{CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they
can explode, and you or others could be
injured. And, the vehicle can overheat. That
could cause an engine compartment re or
other damage. When you are stuck, spin the
wheels as little as possible. Do not spin the
wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on
the speedometer.Notice:Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transmission
back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your
vehicle, seeTire Chains on page 5-66.
Rocking Your Vehicle to Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will
clear the area around your front wheels. If you have a
four-wheel-drive vehicle, shift into 4HI. If you have
traction control, turn the traction control system off. See
Traction Control System (TCS) on page 4-8. Then shift
back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward
gear, or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1)
or SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R), spinning the wheels
as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while
you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when
the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your
wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will
cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle. If that
does not get you out after a few tries, you may need to be
towed out. Or, you can use your recovery hooks if your
vehicle has them. If you do need to be towed out, see
Towing Your Vehicle on page 4-48.
4-40

Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal asher.
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
4-65

Service............................................................5-3
Doing Your Own Service Work.........................5-4
Adding Equipment to the Outside
of Your Vehicle...........................................5-5
Fuel................................................................5-5
Gasoline Octane............................................5-5
Gasoline Specications....................................5-5
California Fuel...............................................5-6
Additives.......................................................5-6
Fuels in Foreign Countries...............................5-7
Filling the Tank..............................................5-8
Filling a Portable Fuel Container.....................5-10
Checking Things Under the Hood....................5-10
Hood Release..............................................5-11
Engine Compartment Overview.......................5-12
Engine Oil...................................................5-13
Engine Oil Life System..................................5-16
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter................................5-18
Automatic Transmission Fluid.........................5-19
Manual Transmission Fluid.............................5-22
Hydraulic Clutch...........................................5-24
Engine Coolant.............................................5-25
Radiator Pressure Cap..................................5-27
Engine Overheating.......................................5-28
Cooling System............................................5-29
Engine Fan Noise.........................................5-34Power Steering Fluid.....................................5-34
Windshield Washer Fluid................................5-35
Brakes........................................................5-36
Battery........................................................5-39
Jump Starting...............................................5-40
Rear Axle.......................................................5-44
Four-Wheel Drive............................................5-44
Front Axle......................................................5-45
Bulb Replacement..........................................5-46
Halogen Bulbs..............................................5-46
Headlamps..................................................5-46
Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and Daytime
Running Lamps.........................................5-48
Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL).........5-48
Taillamps, Turn Signal, Stoplamps and
Back-up Lamps.........................................5-49
Replacement Bulbs.......................................5-50
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement..............5-50
Tires..............................................................5-52
Tire Sidewall Labelling...................................5-53
Tire Terminology and Denitions.....................5-56
Ination - Tire Pressure.................................5-58
Tire Inspection and Rotation...........................5-60
When It Is Time for New Tires.......................5-61
Section 5 Service and Appearance Care
5-1

A. Windshield Washer Fluid. See “Adding Washer
Fluid” underWindshield Washer Fluid on page 5-35.
B. Coolant Recovery Tank. SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-25.
C. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (low in engine
compartment). SeePower Steering Fluid on
page 5-34.
D. Transmission Fluid Dipstick. SeeAutomatic
Transmission Fluid on page 5-19.
E. Engine Oil Dipstick. See “Checking Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
F. Brake Fluid Reservoir. See “Brake Fluid” under
Brakes on page 5-36.
G. Battery. SeeBattery on page 5-39.
H. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir (If Equipped).
SeeHydraulic Clutch on page 5-24.
I. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-18.
J. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See “When to Add Engine Oil”
underEngine Oil on page 5-13.
K. Radiator Pressure Cap. SeeCooling System
on page 5-29.L. Remote Negative (−) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-40.
M. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-40.
N. Engine Compartment Fuse Block. SeeEngine
Compartment Fuse Block on page 5-99.
Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
1. Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes
to drain back into the oil pan. If you do not do this,
the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
2. Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel
or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it
again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-13

Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This
is normal and should not be mistaken as the
transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely
the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will
slow down when additional cooling is not required and
the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering uid
reservoir is located near
the front of the engine
compartment, behind the
radiator. SeeEngine
Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for reservoir
location.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering uid
unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or
you hear an unusual noise. A uid loss in this system
could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected
and repaired.
How to Check Power Steering Fluid
1. Turn the key off and let the engine compartment
cool down.
2. Wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean.
5-34

(D) Construction Code:A letter code is used to
indicate the type of ply construction in the tire. The
letter R means radial ply construction; the letter D means
diagonal or bias ply construction; and the letter B means
belted-bias ply construction.
(E) Rim Diameter:Diameter of the wheel in inches.
(F) Service Description:These characters represent
the load range and speed rating of the tire. The load
index represents the load carry capacity a tire is certied
to carry. The load index can range from 1 to 279. The
speed rating is the maximum speed a tire is certied
to carry a load. Speed ratings range from A to Z.
Tire Terminology and Denitions
Air Pressure:The amount of air inside the tire pressing
outward on each square inch of the tire. Air pressure
is expressed in pounds per square inch (psi) or
kilopascal (kPa).
Accessory Weight:This means the combined weight
of optional accessories. Some examples of optional
accessories are, automatic transmission, power steering,
power brakes, power windows, power seats, and air
conditioning.
Aspect Ratio:The relationship of a tire’s height to
its width.Belt:A rubber coated layer of cords that is located
between the plies and the tread. Cords may be made
from steel or other reinforcing materials.
Bead:The tire bead contains steel wires wrapped by
steel cords that hold the tire onto the rim.
Bias Ply Tire:A pneumatic tire in which the plies are
laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the
centerline of the tread.
Cold Ination Pressure:The amount of air pressure
in a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi)
or kilopascals (kPa) before a tire has built up heat from
driving. SeeInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-58.
Curb Weight:This means the weight of a motor vehicle
with standard and optional equipment including the
maximum capacity of fuel, oil and coolant, but without
passengers and cargo.
DOT Markings:A code molded into the sidewall of a
tire signifying that the tire is in compliance with the
U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT) motor vehicle
safety standards. The DOT code includes the Tire
Identication Number (TIN), an alphanumeric designator
which can also identify the tire manufacturer, production
plant, brand and date of production.
GVWR:Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, seeLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-42.
5-56

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to blowout while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it is much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a blowout, here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you would;
use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer.
Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
5-67