2004 HUMMER H2 Owners Manual

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total gross weight of
your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) includes
the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in
it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. If you
have a lot of options, equipment, passengers or cargo in
your vehicle, it will reduce the tongue weight your vehicle
can carry, which will also reduce the trailer weight your
vehicle can tow. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add
the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be
carrying that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on
page 4-67for more information about your vehicle’s
maximum load capacity.The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up to a
maximum of 500 lbs (227 kg) with a weight carrying
hitch. The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent
to 15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B), up
to a maximum of 700 lbs (318 kg) with a weight
distributing hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongion the hitch
ball closest to the vehicle. This will help reduce the
effect of trailer tongue weight on the rear axle.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights
are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them
right simply by moving some items around in the
trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inated to the upper limit
for cold tires. You’ll nd these numbers on the
Certication label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-67. Then be
sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle,
or the GAWR, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
If you use a weight distributing hitch, make sure you
don’t go over the rear axle limit before you apply
the weight distribution spring bars.
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Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Weight-distributing Hitches and Weight
Carrying Hitches
When using a weight-distributing hitch, the hitch must
be adjusted so that the distance (A) remains the
same both before and after coupling the trailer to the
tow vehicle.
If you ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh
more than 4,000 lbs. (1 814 kg) be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when driving. You should always use a sway control
if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can
ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
(A) Body-to-Ground Distance (B) Front of Vehicle
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the uid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
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Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gearbeforeyou start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g.,
under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode”
earlier.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine off. If you do get
the overheat warning, seeEngine Overheating on
page 5-27.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
parking brake and shift into PARK (P).
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission uid (don’t overll),
engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and
brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you nd them quickly. If
you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
Heavy-Duty Trailer Wiring Package
Your vehicle is equipped with a trailer towing harness.
This harness with a seven-pin universal heavy-duty
trailer connector is attached to a bracket on the hitch
platform.
The Center High-Mounted Stoplamp (CHMSL) wire is
tied next to the trailer wiring harness for use with a
trailer.
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The trailer towing harness contains the following trailer
circuits:
Yellow: Left Stop/Turn Signal
Dark Green: Right Stop/Turn Signal
Brown: Taillamps
White: Ground
Light Green: Back-up Lamps
Light Blue: Center High-Mounted
Stoplamp (CHMSL)
Red: Battery Feed
Dark Blue: Trailer BrakeA jumper harness for an electric trailer brake controller
and a trailer battery feed fuse may be included with
this trailering package. See “Instrument Panel Jumper
Wiring Harness” later in this section.
If you need to tow a light-duty trailer with a standard
four-way, round pin connector, an adapter may be
included. See “Four-Wire Harness Adapter” later in this
section.
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Instrument Panel Jumper Wiring Harness
Notice:If your vehicle has factory or
dealer-installed HUMMER off-road lamps, the place
where an electric trailer brake connection must
be made is already in use. Do not attempt to
double-up or “piggyback” the connection, because
this could cause a failure or damage to your
vehicle, the electric trailer brake system, or both. If
you want to connect a trailer with electric brakes
to your vehicle, see your dealer to disconnect
the off-road lamps. Also, readAdd-On Electrical
Equipment on page 5-101for more information.This harness may be included with your vehicle as part
of the heavy-duty trailer wiring package.
{CAUTION:
Be sure to use only the correct trailer brake
harness, the one intended for use on your
vehicle. If you use some other trailer brake
harness, even if it seems to t, your trailer
brakes may not work at all. You could have a
crash in which you or others could be injured.
Use only the trailer brake harness intended for
your vehicle. If it is no longer available to you,
be sure to get a proper replacement from your
dealer.
This harness is for an electric brake controller and
includes a trailer battery feed fuse. It should be installed
by your dealer or a qualied service center.
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