2004 GMC ENVOY XL tow

A cold uid check can be made after the vehicle has
been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off,
but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine
run at idle for ve minutes if outside temperatures are
50°F (10°C) or more. If it’s colder than 50°F (10°C), you
may have to idle the engine longer. Should the uid
level be low during this cold check, youmustcheck the
uid hot before adding uid. Checking the uid hot
will give you a more accurate reading of the uid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The automatic transmission
dipstick handle with the
transmission and lock
symbol is located in the
engine compartment on
the passenger’s side of
the vehicle.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again. Check both sides of the
dipstick, and read the lower level.
3. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push
the dipstick back in all the way; then ip the
handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
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If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or
hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot
when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in neutral while
stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the road, shift to
PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) and let the engine idle.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can
drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive
normally.
If the warning continues and you have not stopped,
pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, you can push down the
accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as
fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while
you’re parked. If you still have the warning,turn off
the engine and get everyone out of the vehicleuntil it
cools down.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service
help right away.
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6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ller neck.8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ow out of the
ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure
the pressure cap is hand-tight.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the
clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air
to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions
the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel economy
and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading,
trailer towing, and/or high outside temperatures, the fan
speed increases when the clutch engages. So you may
hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should
not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making
extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning
properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling
is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
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After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear
ination pressures as shown on the Certication/Tire
label or the Tire and Loading Information label. Make
certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See
“Wheel Nut Torque” underCapacities and Specications
on page 5-109.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to,
to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing
a Flat Tire” in the Index.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when
it’s time for new
tires is to check the
treadwear indicators,
which will appear when
your tires have only
1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or
less of tread remaining.
Some commercial
truck tires may not have
treadwear indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
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If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes
out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a
few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off
the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake
to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like
a skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from
the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control
by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may
be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer.
Gently brake to a stop, well off the road if possible.{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is designed
only for changing a at tire. If it is used for
anything else, you or others could be badly
injured or killed if the vehicle slips off the jack.
Use the jack provided with your vehicle only
for changing a at tire.
If a tire goes at, the next part shows how to use your
jacking equipment to change a at tire safely.
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The tools you’ll be using include the wheel wrench (A),
wheel blocks (B), extension(s) (socket end) (C),
handle (jack end) (D), and jack (E).
The following instructions explain how to remove the
spare tire mounted underneath your vehicle.
Notice:If you remove or restow a tire from/to the
storage position under the vehicle when it is
supported by a jack, you could damage the tire
and/or your vehicle. Always remove or restow a
tire when the vehicle is on the ground.1. To remove the underbody-mounted spare, insert
the socket end of the extension on a 45° angle
downward into the hoist drive shaft hole. It is
exposed when the rear gate is open and is just
above the rear bumper. Be sure the socket end of
the extension connects to the hoist shaft.
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2. If it is not visible, proceed to Step 6.
If visible, rst try to tighten the cable by turning the
wheel wrench clockwise until you hear two clicks
or feel it skip twice. You cannot overtighten
the cable.
3. Loosen the cable by turning the wheel wrench
counterclockwise three or four turns.
4. Repeat this procedure at least two times.
If the spare tire lowers to the ground, continue with
Step 2 of “Removing the Spare Tire and Tools”
earlier in this section.
5. Turn the wrench counterclockwise until
approximately 6 inches (15 cm) of cable is exposed.
6. Attach the jack handle, extension and the wheel
wrench to the jack and place it under the vehicle
towards the front of the rear bumper. Position
the center lift point of the jack under the center
of the spare tire.
7. Turn the wrench clockwise to raise the jack until it
lifts the end tting.
8. Continue raising the jack until the spare tire stops
moving upward and is held rmly in place. The
secondary latch has released and the spare tire is
balancing on the jack.
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6. Remove all the wheel nuts and take off the at tire.
7. Remove any rust
or dirt from the
wheel bolts,
mounting surfaces
and spare wheel.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on the wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
the places where the wheel attaches to the
vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth
or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use
a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to,
to get all the rust or dirt off.
{CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you
do, the nuts might come loose. Your wheel
could fall off, causing a serious accident.
8. Place the spare on the wheel mounting surface.
9. Put the nuts on
by hand. Make sure
the rounded end
is toward the wheel.
10. Tighten each nut by hand until the wheel is held
against the hub. If a nut can’t be turned by hand,
use the wheel wrench and see your dealer as
soon as possible.
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