2004 GMC CANYON tow

{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/lter
off can cause you or others to be burned.
The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps
to stop ame if the engine backres. If it is
not there and the engine backres, you could
be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/lter off.
Notice:If the air cleaner/lter is off, a backre
can cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt can
easily get into your engine, which will damage
it. Always have the air cleaner/lter in place when
you are driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the uid and lter every 50,000 miles
(83 000 km) if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or
more of these conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher.
In hilly or mountainous terrain.
When doing frequent trailer towing.
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service.
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the uid and lter every
100,000 miles (166 000 km).
SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
5-19

Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine
running.
With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever
in PARK (P).
With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift
lever through each gear range, pausing for about
three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift
lever in PARK (P).
Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
handle has this symbol
on it.
The transmission dipstick is located toward the rear of
the engine compartment on the passenger’s side of
the vehicle. SeeEngine Compartment Overview
on page 5-12for more information on location.1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The uid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
5-21

Checking Coolant
The coolant recovery tank is located toward the rear of
the engine compartment on the passenger’s side.
SeeEngine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
more information on location.
The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your
engine is cold, the coolant level should be at FULL
COLD, or a little higher. When your engine is warm,
the level should be above the FULL COLD level.
Adding Coolant
If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX-COOL®
coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.
{CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the
engine and radiator are hot can allow steam
and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you
badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will
almost never have to add coolant at the
radiator. Never turn the radiator pressure
cap — even a little — when the engine and
radiator are hot.
5-27

{CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn
you badly, even if you just open the hood.
Stay away from the engine if you see or hear
steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get
everyone away from the vehicle until it cools
down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or
coolant before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is
overheated, the liquids in it can catch re.
You or others could be badly burned. Stop
your engine if it overheats, and get out of the
vehicle until the engine is cool.
Notice:If your engine catches re because you
keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can
be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be
covered by your warranty.
If No Steam Is Coming From Your
Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear
no steam, the problem may not be too serious.
Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
Climb a long hill on a hot day.
Stop after high-speed driving.
Idle for long periods in traffic.
Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” under
Towing a Trailer on page 4-60.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam,
try this for a minute or so:
1. In heavy traffic, let the engine idle in NEUTRAL
while stopped. If it is safe to do so, pull off the
road, shift to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL and let the
engine idle.
2. Turn off the air conditioning.
3. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan
speed and open the window as necessary.
5-29

6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the
upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the
engine cooling fan.
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator
ller neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add
more of the proper DEX-COOL
®coolant mixture
through the ller neck until the level reaches
the base of the ller neck.
Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during
this procedure if coolant begins to ow out of
the ller neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure to
secure it tightly.
Engine Fan Noise
This vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When
the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide
more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving
conditions, the clutch is not engaged. This improves fuel
economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle
loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures,
the fan speed increases when the clutch engages.
So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is
normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission
slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling
system functioning properly. The fan will slow down
when additional cooling is not required and the clutch
disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the
engine. It will go away as the fan clutch disengages.
5-35

3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and pull it
straight out of the headlamp housing.
4. Unplug the electrical connector from the old bulb.
5. Plug in the electrical connector to the new bulb.
Use care not to touch the new bulb with your
bare hand or anything damp or oily.
6. Place the connector with the new bulb into the
headlamp housing and turn it clockwise until
it is tight.
Sealed Beam Headlamps
To replace the headlamp capsule, do the following:
1. Remove the four retainer screws and the retainer.
2. Pull the headlamp capsule toward you and
unplug the electrical connector.
3. Plug the electrical connector into the new headlamp
capsule.
4. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to reinstall the headlamp.
5-51

Front Turn Signal, Sidemarker and
Daytime Running Lamps
1. Remove the turn signal/parking lamp/daytime
running lamp (DRL) assembly by pressing on the
release clip on the outboard side of the housing and
pulling the outboard end of the lamp toward you.
2. Pull the inboard side of the lamp out from the small
post in the grille.3. Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise and remove
it from the lamp housing.
4. Remove the old bulb from the bulb socket.
5. Insert the new bulb into the bulb socket.
6. Insert the bulb socket into the lamp housing and
turn it clockwise until it is tight.
7. Place the inboard end of the turn signal/parking
lamp/DRL housing over the small post in the grille.
8. Align the release clip of the lamp assembly with the
square opening in the grille, and push the outboard
side of the lamp assembly in, until the release
clip snaps into place.
5-52

When rotating your tires, always use one of the correct
rotation patterns shown here.
If your vehicle has a compact spare tire or a spare tire
that does not match your vehicle’s road tires and
wheels, in size and type, do not include the spare in the
tire rotation.After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and
rear ination pressures as shown on the Tire and
Loading Information label. For the location of the tire
and loading information label seeLoading Your Vehicle
on page 4-52. Make certain that all wheel nuts are
properly tightened, see “Wheel Nut Torque” under
Capacities and Specications on page 5-108for the
proper wheel nut torque specication.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to,
to get all the rust or dirt off. See “Changing a
Flat Tire” in the Index.
5-66