2004 CHRYSLER VOYAGER light

bottom while springs on the right side have a right-
hand wind top-to-bottom. This helps provide better
vehicle stability during jounce and rebound maneu-
vers of the front suspension. Left and right springs
must not be interchanged. Coil springs are rated sep-
arately for each corner or side of the vehicle depend-
ing on optional equipment and type of vehicle
service. If the coil springs require replacement, be
sure that the springs are replaced with springs meet-
ing the correct load rating and spring rate for the
vehicle and its specific options.
OPERATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
The strut assembly cushions the ride of the vehicle,
controlling vibration, along with jounce and rebound
of the suspension.
The coil spring controls ride quality and maintains
proper ride height.
The spring isolators isolate the coil spring at the
top and bottom from coming into metal-to-metal con-
tact with the upper seat and strut.
The jounce bumper limits suspension travel and
metal-to-metal contact under full jounce condition.The strut dampens jounce and rebound motions of
the coil spring and suspension.
During steering maneuvers, the strut assembly
(through a pivot bearing in the upper strut mount)
and steering knuckle (through the lower ball joint)
turn as an assembly.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - STRUT ASSEMBLY
(1) Inspect for damaged or broken coil springs
(Fig. 38).
(2) Inspect for torn or damaged strut assembly
dust boots (Fig. 38).
(3) Inspect the coil spring isolator on the lower
spring seat for any signs of damage or deterioration.
(4) Lift dust boot (Fig. 39) and inspect strut
assembly for evidence of fluid running from the
upper end of fluid reservoir. (Actual leakage will be a
stream of fluid running down the side and dripping
off lower end of unit). A slight amount of seepage
between the strut rod and strut shaft seal is not
unusual and does not affect performance of the strut
assembly (Fig. 39). Also inspect jounce bumpers for
signs of damage or deterioration.
Fig. 38 STRUT ASSEMBLY
1 - NUT 6 - COIL SPRING
2 - UPPER MOUNT 7 - DUST SHIELD
3 - PIVOT BEARING 8 - JOUNCE BUMPER
4 - UPPER SPRING SEAT 9 - LOWER SPRING ISOLATOR
5 - UPPER SPRING ISOLATOR 10 - STRUT (DAMPER)
2 - 20 FRONT SUSPENSIONRS
STRUT (Continued)

(9) Tighten nut (Fig. 5), removing bushing from
spring eye.
(10) Remove the tool from spring, then remove
bushing from tool.
INSTALLATION - LEAF SPRING FRONT
BUSHING
(1) Install by hand NEW bushing in left side of
leaf spring eye.
(2) Place Remover/Installer, Special Tool 8459 on
leaf spring and bushing as shown (Fig. 6) and tighten
Set Screw securing Installer Plate (8459±3) to tool
threaded shaft.
(3) Tighten nut (Fig. 6), installing bushing in
spring eye. Tighten nut until there is approximately
a 1 mm gap between the bushing flange and the
spring eye.Do not bottom the flange against the
spring eye.
(4) Remove Remover/Installer from the bushing
and leaf spring.
(5) Bend the retainer tabs on bushing outward
against spring eye.
(6) Position spring mounting bracket over spring
eye and install pivot bolt through center of bushing
from theoutboardside.NOTE: The pivot bolt must be installed from the
outboard side to allow proper bracket to body
mounting.
(7) Install the nut on the pivot bolt and lightly
tighten. Do not fully tighten bolt at this time.
(8) Raise the under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack, guiding the forward mounting bracket into
place against the body. It may help to use a drift
punch placed through the hole centered between the
mounting bolt holes in the bracket and the pilot hole
in the body of the vehicle as a guide. When the four
mounting bolt holes line up with their threads in the
body, Install the mounting bolts (Fig. 3). Tighten the
four mounting bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(9) Raise or lower the jack until shock absorber
lower eye aligns with threads in axle housing. Install
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Do not fully
tighten bolt at this time.
(10) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
(11) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(12) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
HUB / BEARING
DESCRIPTION
The rear wheel bearing and rear wheel hub of this
vehicle are a one-piece sealed unit, or hub and bear-
ing unit type assembly (Unit III). The hub and bear-
ing is mounted to the center of the rear axle using 4
mounting bolts. It has five wheel mounting studs on
the hub flange.
All-Wheel-Drive vehicles have a hub and bearing
unit with a splined hole in the center of the hub for
rear driveshaft stub axle acceptance.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles with antilock brakes
have an internally mounted wheel speed sensor and
tone wheel. This hub and bearing can be identified
by the rounded cap and molded in connector on the
rear of the assembly (Fig. 7). The sensor and tone
wheel cannot be serviced separately from the hub
and bearing.
OPERATION
The hub and bearing has internal bearings that
allow the hub to rotate with the tire and wheel
assembly (and driveshaft on All-Wheel-Drive vehi-
cles). The five wheel mounting studs mount the tire
and wheel assembly, and disc brake rotor or brake
drum to the vehicle.
Fig. 6 TOOL 8459 MOUNTED FOR BUSHING
INSTALLATION
1 - NUT
2 - WASHER
3 - BEARING
4 - LEAF SPRING EYE
5 - BUSHING
6 - INSTALLER PLATE (8459-3)
7 - PIN
8 - BODY (8459-1)
2 - 30 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
BUSHINGS (Continued)

On All-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the splined mating of
the driveshaft stub axle and hub allows the drive-
shaft to rotate with the hub and wheel.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles equipped with antilock
brakes have a wheel speed sensor and tone wheel
mounted to the rear of the hub and bearing. The tone
wheel rotates with the hub which is sensed by the
wheel speed sensor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The bearing contained in the hub and bearing
assembly will produce noise and vibration when worn
or damaged. The noise will generally change when
the bearings are loaded. A road test of the vehicle is
normally required to determine the location of a
worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is some-
times noticeable at lower speeds and at other times
is more noticeable at speeds above 105 km/h (65
mph).
REMOVAL
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel and tire. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove brake drum or disc brake caliper and
rotor from hub and bearing. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DRUM - REMOVAL-)(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTOR - REMOVAL)
(4) If equipped with antilock brakes, perform the
following:
(a) Remove secondary (yellow) retaining clip at
rear of wheel speed sensor head (Fig. 8).
(b) Push up on metal retaining clip (Fig. 8) until
it bottoms. This will release wheel speed sensor
head from hub and bearing.
(c) While holding metal clip up, pull back on
wheel speed sensor head removing it from hub and
bearing.
(5) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the hub and bear-
ing to the rear axle.
CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub
and bearing, and the axle. If this occurs the hub
and bearing will be difficult to remove from the
axle. If the hub and bearing will not come out of the
axle by pulling on it by hand, do not pound on the
hub and bearing to remove it from the axle. Damage
will occur. Use the following procedure.
(6) If the hub and bearing cannot be removed from
the axle by hand, use Remover, Special Tool 8458
(Fig. 9) and the following procedure to press the hub
and bearing out of the axle.
(a) Remove the two outboard spring plate bolts.
(b) Thread Threaded Guide Pins into hub and
bearing mounting bolt holes.
(c) Using the spring plate bolts, install the
Screw Mount, Special Tool 8458±2, as shown (Fig.
9). Mount the Screw Mount to the spring plate
with the tool number facing the hub and bearing
and the beveled edge on the bottom facing the
Fig. 7 Hub And Bearing - FWD With ABS
Fig. 8 Sensor Connector At Hub And Bearing
1 - SECONDARY SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
2 - METAL SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
3 - HUB AND BEARING
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-31
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub/
bearing and the axle. If this occurs the hub/bearing
will be difficult to remove from the axle. If the hub/
bearing will not come out of the axle by pulling on
it by hand, do not pound on the hub/bearing to
remove it from the axle. Pounding on the hub/bear-
ing to remove it from the axle will damage the hub/
bearing. This damage will result in noise or failure
of the hub/bearing. To remove a hub/bearing which
is corroded to the axle, lightly tap the disc brake
caliper adapter using a soft faced hammer. This will
remove both the disc brake caliper adapter and
hub/bearing from the axle. The hub/bearing will
then need to be removed from the caliper adapter.
(16) Remove the hub/bearing from the axle. (Fig.
12).
(17) If the disc brake caliper adapter and hub/
bearing were removed as an assembly from the axle
and the hub/bearing cannot be removed from the
adapter by hand, use the following procedure to
remove it from the adapter. With a helper supporting
the caliper adapter in his hands, position Remover,
Special Tool 8214-1 on the cast housing of hub/bear-
ing (Fig. 11).Do not position special tool on
inner race of hub/bearing.Lightly strike Remover,
Special Tool 8214-1 with a hammer to remove the
hub/bearing from the caliper adapter.INSTALLATION
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Install the 4 hub and bearing to axle mounting
bolts into the holes in the flange of the rear axle.
(2) Install the rear brake support plate on the 4
mounting bolts installed in the flange of the rear
axle.
(3) Align the rear hub and bearing with the 4
mounting bolts and start mounting bolts into hub
and bearing. Tighten the 4 bolts in a crisscross pat-
tern until the hub and bearing and brake support
plate is fully and squarely seated onto flange of rear
axle. Tighten the 4 mounting bolts to a torque of 129
N´m (95 ft. lbs.)
NOTE: If equipped with antilock brakes, make sure
wheel speed sensor stays clean and dry as it is
installed into the hub and bearing cap.
(4) If the vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes,
perform the following:
(a) If metal sensor retaining clip is not in the
neutral installed position on hub and bearing cap,
install from the bottom, if necessary, and push clip
upward until it snaps into position.
(b) Install wheel speed sensor head into rear of
hub and bearing aligning index tab with the notch
in the top of the mounting hole. Push the sensor in
until it snaps into place on the metal retaining
clip.
(c) Install secondary (yellow) retaining clip over
wheel speed sensor head and engage the tabs on
each side (Fig. 8).
(5) Install brake drum or disc brake rotor and
brake caliper. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/
MECHANICAL/DRUM - INSTALLATION)(Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTOR -
INSTALLATION)
(6) Install wheel and tire (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS - INSTALLATION). Tighten the wheel
nuts in the proper sequence to a torque of 135 N´m
(100 ft. lbs.).
(7) Adjust the rear brakes as necessary. (Refer to 5
- BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/BRAKE
PADS/SHOES - ADJUSTMENTS)
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Road test vehicle to ensure proper operation of
brakes.
Fig. 11 Hub/Bearing Removal From Caliper Adapter
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 8214-1
2 - PARK BRAKE CABLE
3 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER
4 - HUB/BEARING
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-33
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

be necessary to place a wooden block between the
spring and vehicle to hold forward end of the spring
in place.
(6) Remove leaf spring forward pivot bolt, then
remove mounting bracket.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position spring mounting bracket over spring
eye and install pivot bolt through center of bushing
from theoutboardside.
NOTE: The pivot bolt must be installed from the
outboard side to allow proper bracket to body
mounting.
(2) Install the nut on the pivot bolt and lightly
tighten. Do not fully tighten bolt at this time.
(3) Raise the under-hoist utility jack or transmis-
sion jack, guiding the forward mounting bracket into
place against the body. It may help to use a drift
punch placed through the hole centered between the
mounting bolt holes in the bracket and the pilot hole
in the body of the vehicle as a guide. When the four
mounting bolt holes line up with their threads in the
body, Install the mounting bolts (Fig. 37). Tighten the
four mounting bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(4) Raise or lower the jack until shock absorber
lower eye aligns with threads in axle housing. Install
shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Do not fully
tighten bolt at this time.
(5) Lower the vehicle and remove hoist arms and
block of wood from under vehicle.
(6) Tighten the spring front pivot bolt to 156 N´m
(115 ft. lbs.) torque.
(7) Tighten the lower shock absorber mounting
bolt to 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.) torque.
SPRING MOUNTS - REAR
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the attaching nuts and bolts from the
leaf spring rear shackle (Fig. 38) and (Fig. 39).
(2) Install a jackstand under the side of the axle
having the leaf spring mount removed. Using the
jackstand, support the weight of the axle and leaf
spring.(3) Remove the lower mounting bolt from the
shock absorber.
(4) Remove the bolts attaching the leaf spring rear
mount to the body of the vehicle (Fig. 40).
(5) Lower the jackstand and the rear of the leaf
spring. Remove the shackle from the leaf spring
bushing.
Fig. 38 Leaf Spring Shackle Nuts (FWD)
1 - SHACKLE PLATE
Fig. 39 All-Wheel-Drive Rear Suspension
1 - SHACKLE
2 - REAR MOUNT (HANGER)
3 - LEAF SPRING (MULTI-LEAF)
4 - AWD REAR AXLE
2 - 44 REAR SUSPENSIONRS
SPRING MOUNTS - FRONT (Continued)

(12) Pull steering knuckle assembly down and
away from the outer C/V joint of the half shaft
assembly while pulling the joint out of the hub bear-
ing.
(13) Support the outer end of the half shaft assem-
bly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and
transaxle case (Fig. 7). Pry against inner tripod joint,
until tripod joint retaining snap-ring is disengaged
from transaxle side gear.
(14) Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting
shaft of half shaft assembly. Remove inner tripod
joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of
transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal (Fig. 8).
When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or
snap-ring drag across sealing lip of the trans-
axle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing
surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal
sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean trans-
mission lubricant.
(2) Holding half shaft assembly by tripod joint and
interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into trans-
axle side gear as far as possible by hand (Fig. 8).
(3) Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting
shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear
of transaxle, until snap-ring is engaged with trans-
axle side gear.Test that snap-ring is fully
engaged with side gear by attempting to
remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If
snap-ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod
joint will not be removable by hand.(4) Clean all debris and moisture out of steering
knuckle, in the area were outer CV joint will be
installed into steering knuckle.
(5) Ensure that front of outer CV joint which fits
against the face of the hub and bearing is free of
debris and moisture before installing outer CV joint
into hub and bearing assembly (Fig. 9).
(6) Slide half shaft back into front hub and bear-
ing assembly.
Fig. 7 Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From
Transaxle
1 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
2 - TRANSAXLE CASE
3-PRYBAR
Fig. 8 Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
1 - INNER TRIPOD JOINT
2 - TRANSAXLE
3 - SPLINE
4 - OIL SEAL
5 - SNAP-RING
6 - INTERCONNECTING SHAFT
Fig. 9 Outer CV Joint Inspection
1 - OUTER C/V JOINT
2 - THIS AREA OF OUTER C/V JOINT MUST BE FREE OF ALL
DEBRIS AND MOISTURE, BEFORE INSTALLATION INTO
STEERING KNUCKLE.
3 - 4 HALF SHAFT - FRONTRS
HALF SHAFT - FRONT (Continued)

(4) Remove hub nut and washer.
CAUTION: The half shaft outer CV joint, when
installed, acts as a bolt and secures the hub/bear-
ing assembly. If the vehicle is to be supported or
moved on its wheels, install and torque a bolt
through the hub. This will ensure that the hub/bear-
ing assembly cannot loosen.
(5) Remove inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig. 2).
(6) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and pull downward to clear
rear differential output flange. Then pull half shaft
assembly outward to remove (Fig. 3).INSTALLATION
(1) Install the outer CV joint stub shaft through
the hub bearing (Fig. 4).
(2) The half shaft is spring loaded. Compress inner
half shaft joint slightly and push upward until the
inner CV joint flange engages the rear differential
output flange.
(3) Install the inner half shaft retaining bolts (Fig.
5). Torque the bolts to 61 N´m (45 ft.lbs.).
(4) Install the half shaft washer and hub nut.
Torque the hub nut to 244 N´m (180 ft.lbs.).
Fig. 2 Inner Half Shaft Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
Fig. 3 Half Shaft Removal
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
Fig. 4 Half Shaft Installation
1 - BRAKE BACKING PLATE
2 - HALF SHAFT
Fig. 5 Inner Half Shaft Bolts
1 - SHAFT
2 - FLANGE
3 - 14 HALF SHAFT - REARRS
HALF SHAFT - REAR (Continued)

²Engine
²Transmission
²Exhaust
²Propeller shaft (vibration)
²Vehicle body (drumming)
Driveline module noises are normally divided into
two categories: gear noise or bearing noise. A thor-
ough and careful inspection should be completed to
determine the actual source of the noise before
replacing the driveline module.
The rubber mounting bushings help to dampen-out
driveline module noise when properly installed.
Inspect to confirm that no metal contact exists
between the driveline module case and the body. The
complete isolation of noise to one area requires
expertise and experience. Identifying certain types of
vehicle noise baffles even the most capable techni-
cians. Often such practices as:
²Increase tire inflation pressure to eliminate tire
noise.
²Listen for noise at varying speeds with different
driveline load conditions
²Swerving the vehicle from left to right to detect
wheel bearing noise.
All driveline module assemblies produce noise to a
certain extent. Slight carrier noise that is noticeable
only at certain speeds or isolated situations should be
considered normal. Carrier noise tends to peak at a
variety of vehicle speeds. Noise isNOT ALWAYSan
indication of a problem within the carrier.
TIRE NOISE
Tire noise is often mistaken for driveline module
noise. Tires that are unbalanced, worn unevenly or
are worn in a saw-tooth manner are usually noisy.
They often produce a noise that appears to originate
in the driveline module.
Tire noise changes with different road surfaces, but
driveline module noise does not. Inflate all four tires
with approximately 20 psi (138 kPa) more than the
recommended inflation pressure (for test purposes
only). This will alter noise caused by tires, but will
not affect noise caused by the differential. Rear axle
noise usually ceases when coasting at speeds less
than 30 mph (48 km/h); however, tire noise contin-
ues, but at a lower frequency, as the speed is
reduced.
After test has been completed lower tire pressure
back to recommended pressure.
GEAR NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND RING GEAR)
Abnormal gear noise is rare and is usually caused
by scoring on the ring gear and drive pinion. Scoring
is the result of insufficient or incorrect lubricant in
the carrier housing.Abnormal gear noise can be easily recognized. It
produces a cycling tone that will be very pronounced
within a given speed range. The noise can occur dur-
ing one or more of the following drive conditions:
²Drive
²Road load
²Float
²Coast
Abnormal gear noise usually tends to peak within
a narrow vehicle speed range or ranges. It is usually
more pronounced between 30 to 40 mph (48 to 64
km/h) and 50 to 60 mph (80 to 96 km/h). When objec-
tionable gear noise occurs, note the driving condi-
tions and the speed range.
BEARING NOISE (DRIVE PINION AND
DIFFERENTIAL)
Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is
constant in pitch and varies with the speed of vehi-
cle. Being aware of this will enable a technician to
separate bearing noise from gear noise.
Drive pinion bearing noise that results from defec-
tive or damaged bearings can usually be identified by
its constant, rough sound. Drive pinion front bearing
is usually more pronounced during a coast condition.
Drive pinion rear bearing noise is more pronounced
during a drive condition. The drive pinion bearings
are rotating at a higher rate of speed than either the
differential side bearings or the axle shaft bearing.
Differential side bearing noise will usually produce
a constant, rough sound. The sound is much lower in
frequency than the noise caused by drive pinion bear-
ings.
Bearing noise can best be detected by road testing
the vehicle on a smooth road (black top). However, it
is easy to mistake tire noise for bearing noise. If a
doubt exists, the tire treads should be examined for
irregularities that often causes a noise that resem-
bles bearing noise.
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION NOISE
Sometimes noise that appears to be in the driv-
eline module assembly is actually caused by the
engine or the transmission. To identify the true
source of the noise, note the approximate vehicle
speed and/or RPM when the noise is most noticeable.
Stop the vehicle next to a flat brick or cement wall
(this will help reflect the sound). Place the transaxle
inNEUTRAL. Accelerate the engine slowly up
through the engine speed that matches the vehicle
speed noted when the noise occurred. If the same
noise is produced, it usually indicates that the noise
is being caused by the engine or transaxle.
RSREAR DRIVELINE MODULE3-25
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE (Continued)