2004 CHRYSLER VOYAGER change wheel

Kilometers 120 000 125 000 130 000 134 000 139 000 144 000
(Miles) (75,000) (78,000) (81,000) (84,000) (87,000) (90,000)
Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.XXXXX X
Inspect the brake linings. X X
Inspect the engine air cleaner
filter, replace if necessary. *XXXX
Replace theengine air
cleaner filterXX
Replace thespark plugson
3.3 liter engines.X
Replace theignition cables
on 3.3 liter engines.X
Replace thespark plugson
2.4 liter engines.X
Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension on
2.4 liter engines.XX
Inspect the generator belt on
2.4 liter engines, replace if
necessary.XX
Inspect the tie rod ends and
boot seals.X
Inspect engine accessory
drive belts on 3.3 liter
engines, replace if necessary.
³XX
Change the manual
transmission fluid.X
Check thePCV valveand
replace if necessary. Not
required if previously
changed.*X
Change the All Wheel Drive
power transfer unit fluid. (See
the note at the end of this
chart.)XX
Change the All Wheel Drive
(AWD) overrunning clutch and
rear carrier fluid. (See note at
the end of this chart)X
Replace theengine timing
belton 2.4 liter engines. *X
Replace the air conditioning
filter.XX
RSLUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE0-21
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Kilometers 149 000 154 000 158 000 160 000 163 000 168 000
(Miles) (93,000) (96,000) (99,000) (100,000) (102,000) (105,000)
Change engine oil and engine
oil filter.XXX X X
Inspect the brake linings. X
Inspect the engine air cleaner
filter, replace if necessary. *XXXXX
Replace theengine air
cleaner filter*X
Inspect and adjust the power
steering pump belt tension on
2.4 liter engines.X
Inspect the generator belt on
2.4 liter engines, replace if
necessary.X
Inspect engine accessory
drive belts on 3.3 liter
engines, replace if necessary.
³X
Change the manual
transmission fluid.X
Change the All Wheel Drive
(AWD) power transfer unit,
overrunning clutch and rear
carrier fluid. (See note at the
end of this chart)X
Flush and replace the engine
coolant at 60 months or
100,000 miles.X
Replace the air conditioning
filter.X
0 - 22 LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCERS
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

Kilometers 173 000 178 000 182 000 187 000 192 000
(Miles) (108,000) (111,000) (114,000) (117,000) (120,000)
Change engine oil and engine oil filter. X X X X X
Inspect the brake linings. X X
Inspect the engine air cleaner filter, replace
if necessary. *XXXX
Replace theengine air cleaner filter.X
Replace thespark plugson 2.4 liter
engines.X
Replace theignition cableson 2.4 liter
engines.X
Inspect and adjust the power steering pump
belt tension on 2.4 liter engines.X
Inspect the generator belt on 2.4 liter
engines, replace if necessary.X
Inspect engine accessory drive belts on 3.3
liter engines, replace if necessary. ³X
Inspect the tie rod ends and boot seals. X
Inspect thePCV valveand replace as
necessary.*X
Change the automatic transmission fluid
and filter.X
Change the All Wheel Drive (AWD) power
transfer unit fluid. (See note at the end of
this chart)X
Replace the air conditioning filter.X
* This maintenance is recommended by the manu-
facture to the owner but is not required to maintain
the emissions warranty.
³ This maintenance is not required if previously
replaced.
Inspection and service should also be performed
anytime a malfunction is observed or suspected.
Retain all receipts.
NOTE: The AWD power transfer unit fluid and the
AWD overrunning clutch/ rear carrier fluid must bechanged at the intervals shown in schedule B if the
vehicle is operated under any of the conditions
noted by a diamond at the beginning of the sched-
ule.
WARNING: You can be badly injured working on or
around a motor vehicle. Do only that service work
for which you have the knowledge and the right
equipment. If you have any doubt about your ability
to perform a service job, take your vehicle to a
competent mechanic.
RSLUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE0-23
MAINTENANCE SCHEDULES (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The condition of the front hub and bearing assem-
bly is diagnosed using the inspection and testing pro-
cedure detailed below.
The bearing contained in the Unit III front hub/
bearing assembly will produce noise and vibration
when worn or damaged. The noise will generally
change when the bearings are loaded. A road test of
the vehicle is normally required to determine the
location of a worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is some-
times noticeable at lower speeds and at other times
is more noticeable at speeds above 105 km/h (65
mph).
REMOVAL
NOTE: Replacement of the Unit III front hub/bearing
assembly can be normally done without having to
remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. In the
event that the hub/bearing is frozen in the steering
knuckle and cannot be removed by hand, it will
have to be pressed out of the steering knuckle. The
steering knuckle will require removal from the vehi-
cle to allow the hub/bearing assembly to be
pressed out of the steering knuckle. (Refer to 2 -
SUSPENSION/FRONT/KNUCKLE - REMOVAL)
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel lug nuts, and front tire and
wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the cotter pin, nut lock and spring
washer from the stub axle (Fig. 4).
(4) With aid of a helper applying the brakes to
keep the front hub from turning, remove the hub nut
(Fig. 4).
(5) Remove disc brake caliper and adapter as an
assembly from knuckle as shown (Fig. 5). Hang
assembly out of the way using a bungee cord or wire.
Do not allow caliper hang by brake hose.
(6) Remove brake rotor from hub and bearing (Fig.
5).
(7) Push in on end of driveshaft stub shaft, push-
ing its splines out of the hub splines.
Fig. 4 Hub Nut
1 - HUB NUT
2 - NUT LOCK
3 - COTTER PIN
4 - SPRING WASHER
Fig. 5 Front Brake Mounting
1 - BRAKE ROTOR
2 - HUB AND BEARING
3 - STEERING KNUCKLE
4 - ADAPTER MOUNTING BOLTS
5 - BRAKE CALIPER
6 - ADAPTER
7 - CLIP
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-5
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

NOTE: Before releasing the tension the compressor
has on the spring, using the following figure as ref-
erence (Fig. 50), make sure the upper spring seat,
coil spring and strut clevis bracket are all lined up
properly (within 5É of one another).
(12) Slowly release the tension from the coil spring
by backing off the compressor drive fully. As the ten-
sion is relieved, make sure the upper mount, pivot
bearing and upper seat are align properly. Remove
the clamp from the lower end of the coil spring and
strut. Push back the spring compressor upper and
lower hooks, then remove the strut assembly from
the spring compressor.
(13) Install strut assembly on the vehicle. (Refer to
2 - SUSPENSION/FRONT/STRUT - INSTALLA-
TION)
INSTALLATION - STRUT ASSEMBLY
CAUTION: Front strut coil springs are side-oriented.
When installing a strut assembly, make sure the
strut being installed has the correct coil spring for
that side of the vehicle. Springs on the left side of
the vehicle have a left-hand wind top-to-bottom
while springs on the right side have a right-hand
wind top-to-bottom (Fig. 49). Do not interchange the
two sides.(1) Install strut assembly into strut tower, aligning
and installing the 3 studs on the upper strut mount
into the holes in shock tower. Install the 3 upper
strut mount attaching nut/washer assemblies (Fig.
43). Then using a crow foot. tighten the 3 attaching
nuts to a torque of 28 N´m (250 in. lbs.).
CAUTION: The steering knuckle to strut assembly
attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned
during installation. Install nuts while holding bolts
stationary in the steering knuckles.
NOTE: The strut clevis-to-steering knuckle bolts are
installed differently on each side of the vehicle. Left
hand side bolts are to be installed from vehicle rear
to front. Right side bolts are to be installed from
vehicle front to rear.
(2) Align strut assembly with steering knuckle.
Position arm of steering knuckle into strut assembly
clevis bracket. Align the strut assembly clevis
bracket mounting holes with the steering knuckle
mounting holes. Install the 2 strut assembly to steer-
ing knuckle attaching bolts (Fig. 42).If strut assem-
bly is attached to steering knuckle using a cam
bolt, the cam bolt must be installed in the lower
slotted hole on strut clevis bracket.Tighten the
strut clevis-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts to a
torque of 81 N´m (60 ft. lbs.) plus an additional 1/4
(90É) turn after specified torque is met.
(3) Install the stabilizer bar link mounting stud
through the bracket on the strut assembly (Fig. 41).
CAUTION: When installing the nut on the mounting
stud of the stabilizer bar link, do not allow the stud
to rotate in it's socket. Hold the stud from rotating
by placing an open-end wrench on the flat
machined into the stud (Fig. 41).
(4) Hand thread the nut on the end of the stabi-
lizer bar link stud. Hold the stud from turning by
placing an open-end wrench on the flat machined
into the link's mounting stud, then tighten the nut
while holding the wrench in place (Fig. 41). Tighten
the nut to a torque of 88 N´m (65 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the hydraulic brake hose and speed sen-
sor cable routing brackets on the strut assembly
brackets (Fig. 40). Tighten the routing bracket
attaching bolts to a torque of 13 N´m (10 ft. lbs.).
(6) Install the wheel/tire assembly on the vehicle.
(7) Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud
nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to
half specification. Then repeat the tightening
sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N´m (100
ft. lbs.).
Fig. 50 Components Lined Up
1 - IMAGINARY VERTICAL LINE
2 - CLEVIS BRACKET
3 - END OF COIL SPRING (RIGHT SIDE ONLY)
4 - NOTCH IN UPPER SPRING SEAT
RSFRONT SUSPENSION2-25
STRUT (Continued)

On All-Wheel-Drive vehicles, the splined mating of
the driveshaft stub axle and hub allows the drive-
shaft to rotate with the hub and wheel.
Front-Wheel-Drive vehicles equipped with antilock
brakes have a wheel speed sensor and tone wheel
mounted to the rear of the hub and bearing. The tone
wheel rotates with the hub which is sensed by the
wheel speed sensor.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HUB AND
BEARING
The bearing contained in the hub and bearing
assembly will produce noise and vibration when worn
or damaged. The noise will generally change when
the bearings are loaded. A road test of the vehicle is
normally required to determine the location of a
worn or damaged bearing.
Find a smooth level road surface and bring the
vehicle up to a constant speed. When vehicle is at a
constant speed, swerve the vehicle back and forth
from the left and to the right. This will load and
unload the bearings and change the noise level.
When bearing damage is slight, the noise is some-
times noticeable at lower speeds and at other times
is more noticeable at speeds above 105 km/h (65
mph).
REMOVAL
FRONT-WHEEL-DRIVE VEHICLES
(1) Raise vehicle. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/HOISTING - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE)
(2) Remove wheel and tire. (Refer to 22 - TIRES/
WHEELS - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove brake drum or disc brake caliper and
rotor from hub and bearing. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DRUM - REMOVAL-)(Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/
ROTOR - REMOVAL)
(4) If equipped with antilock brakes, perform the
following:
(a) Remove secondary (yellow) retaining clip at
rear of wheel speed sensor head (Fig. 8).
(b) Push up on metal retaining clip (Fig. 8) until
it bottoms. This will release wheel speed sensor
head from hub and bearing.
(c) While holding metal clip up, pull back on
wheel speed sensor head removing it from hub and
bearing.
(5) Remove the 4 bolts attaching the hub and bear-
ing to the rear axle.
CAUTION: Corrosion may occur between the hub
and bearing, and the axle. If this occurs the hub
and bearing will be difficult to remove from the
axle. If the hub and bearing will not come out of the
axle by pulling on it by hand, do not pound on the
hub and bearing to remove it from the axle. Damage
will occur. Use the following procedure.
(6) If the hub and bearing cannot be removed from
the axle by hand, use Remover, Special Tool 8458
(Fig. 9) and the following procedure to press the hub
and bearing out of the axle.
(a) Remove the two outboard spring plate bolts.
(b) Thread Threaded Guide Pins into hub and
bearing mounting bolt holes.
(c) Using the spring plate bolts, install the
Screw Mount, Special Tool 8458±2, as shown (Fig.
9). Mount the Screw Mount to the spring plate
with the tool number facing the hub and bearing
and the beveled edge on the bottom facing the
Fig. 7 Hub And Bearing - FWD With ABS
Fig. 8 Sensor Connector At Hub And Bearing
1 - SECONDARY SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
2 - METAL SENSOR RETAINING CLIP
3 - HUB AND BEARING
RSREAR SUSPENSION2-31
HUB / BEARING (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Excessive Steering Free
Play1. Incorrect Steering Gear Adjustment 1. Adjust Or Replace Steering Gear
2. Worn or loose tie rod ends 2. Replace or tighten tie rod ends
3. Loose steering gear mounting bolts 3. Tighten steering gear bolts to specified
torque
4. Loose or worn steering shaft coupler 4. Replace steering shaft coupler
Excessive Steering Effort 1. Low tire pressure 1. Inflate all tires to recommended
pressure
2. Lack of lubricant in steering gear 2. Replace steering gear
3. Low power steering fluid level 3. Fill power steering fluid reservoir to
correct level
4. Loose power steering pump drive
belt4. Correctly adjust power steering pump
drive belt
5. Lack of lubricant in ball joints 5. Lubricate or replace ball joints
6. Steering gear malfunction 6. Replace steering gear
7. Lack of lubricant in steering coupler 7. Replace steering coupler
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL ALIGNMENT
PRE-WHEEL ALIGNMENT INSPECTION
Before any attempt is made to change or correct
the wheel alignment, the following inspection and
necessary corrections must be made to ensure proper
alignment.
(1) Verify that the fuel tank is full of fuel. If the
tank is not full, the reduction in weight will affect
the curb height of the vehicle and the alignment
angles.
(2) The passenger and luggage compartments of
the vehicle should be free of any load that is not fac-
tory equipment.
(3) Check the tires on the vehicle. All tires must be
the same size and in good condition with approxi-
mately the same amount of tread wear. Inflate all
the tires to the recommended air pressure.
(4) Check the front wheel and tire assemblies for
excessive radial runout.
(5) Inspect lower ball joints and all steering link-
age for looseness, binding, wear or damage. Repair as
necessary.
(6) Check suspension fasteners for proper torque
and retighten as necessary.
(7) Inspect all suspension component rubber bush-
ings for signs of wear or deterioration. Replace any
faulty bushings or components before aligning the
vehicle.
(8) Check the vehicle's curb height to verify it is
within specifications. Refer to Curb Height Measure-
ment.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SETUP
(1) Position the vehicle on an alignment rack.
(2) Install all required alignment equipment on
the vehicle per the alignment equipment manufactur-
er's instructions. On this vehicle, a four-wheel align-
ment is recommended.
NOTE: Prior to reading the vehicle's alignment
readouts, the front and rear of vehicle should be
jounced. Induce jounce (rear first, then front) by
grasping the center of the bumper and jouncing
each end of vehicle an equal number of times. The
bumper should always be released when vehicle is
at the bottom of the jounce cycle.
(3) Read the vehicle's current front and rear align-
ment settings. Compare the vehicle's current align-
ment settings to the vehicle specifications for camber,
caster and toe-in. (Refer to 2 - SUSPENSION/
WHEEL ALIGNMENT - SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) If front camber and caster are not within spec-
ifications, proceed to CAMBER AND CASTER below.
If caster and camber are within specifications, pro-
ceed to TOE which can be found following CAMBER
AND CASTER. Rear camber, caster and toe are not
adjustable. If found not to be within specifications,
reinspect for damaged suspension or body compo-
nents and replace as necessary.
CAMBER AND CASTER
Camber and caster settings on this vehicle are
determined at the time the vehicle is designed, by
the location of the vehicle's suspension components.
This is referred to as NET BUILD. The result is no
2 - 52 WHEEL ALIGNMENTRS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT (Continued)

DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - FRONT.....................1
HALF SHAFT - REAR.....................13PROPELLER SHAFT.....................21
REAR DRIVELINE MODULE................23
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
DESCRIPTION..........................1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT.....1
REMOVAL.............................2
INSTALLATION..........................4
SPECIFICATIONS - HALF SHAFT - FRONT....6CV BOOT - INNER
REMOVAL.............................6
INSTALLATION..........................6
CV BOOT - OUTER
REMOVAL.............................10
INSTALLATION.........................10
HALF SHAFT - FRONT
DESCRIPTION
All vehicles use an unequal length half shaft sys-
tem (Fig. 1).
The left half shaft uses a tuned rubber damper
weight. When replacing the left half shaft, be sure
the replacement half shaft has the same damper
weight as the original.
All half shaft assemblies use the same type of
inner and outer joints. The inner joint of both half
shaft assemblies is a tripod joint, and the outer joint
of both half shaft assemblies is a Rzeppa joint. Both
tripod joints and Rzeppa joints are true constant
velocity (CV) joint assemblies. The inner tripod joint
allows for the changes in half shaft length through
the jounce and rebound travel of the front suspen-
sion.
On vehicles equipped with ABS brakes, the outer
CV joint is equipped with a tone wheel used to deter-
mine vehicle speed for ABS brake operation.
The inner tripod joint of both half shafts is splined
into the transaxle side gears. The inner tripod joints
are retained in the side gears of the transaxle using
a snap ring located in the stub shaft of the tripod
joint. The outer CV joint has a stub shaft that is
splined into the wheel hub and retained by a steel
hub nut.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HALF SHAFT
VEHICLE INSPECTION
(1) Check for grease in the vicinity of the inboard
tripod joint and outboard CV joint; this is a sign of
inner or outer joint seal boot or seal boot clamp dam-
age.
NOISE AND/OR VIBRATION IN TURNS
A clicking noise and/or a vibration in turns could
be caused by one of the following conditions:
²Damaged outer CV or inner tripod joint seal
boot or seal boot clamps. This will result in the loss
and/or contamination of the joint grease, resulting in
inadequate lubrication of the joint.
²Noise may also be caused by another component
of the vehicle coming in contact with the half shafts.
CLUNKING NOISE DURING ACCELERATION
This noise may be a result of one of the following
conditions:
²A torn seal boot on the inner or outer joint of the
half shaft assembly.
²A loose or missing clamp on the inner or outer
joint of the half shaft assembly.
²A damaged or worn half shaft CV joint.
RSDIFFERENTIAL & DRIVELINE3-1