2004 CHEVROLET SSR tow

Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight
to measure because it affects the total gross weight
of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)
includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you
may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in
the vehicle. If you have a lot of options, equipment,
passengers or cargo in your vehicle, it will reduce the
tongue weight your vehicle can carry, which will
also reduce the trailer weight your vehicle can tow. And
if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load
to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying
that weight, too. SeeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-32
for more information about your vehicle’s maximum
load capacity.
The trailer tongue weight (A) should be 10 percent to
15 percent of the total loaded trailer weight, up to
a maximum of 250 lbs (113 kg) with the equipped hitch.
Do not exceed the maximum allowable tongue weight
for your vehicle. Only use the equipped hitch that comes
with your vehicle.
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and
then the tongue, separately to see if the weights
are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them
right simply by moving some items around in the
trailer.
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Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes—and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer’s brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, then make the brake
uid tap at the port on the master cylinder that
sends uid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper
tubing for this. If you do, it will bend and nally break off.
Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch, parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
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Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle has to have extra
wiring and a heavy-duty turn signal asher (included
in the optional trailering package).
The arrows on your instrument panel will ash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also ash, telling other drivers
you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
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Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
Under normal conditions, use DRIVE (D) to tow a trailer.
You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3)
or, if necessary, a lower gear if the transmission shifts
too often under heavy loads or hilly conditions.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your
engine off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the transmission in PARK (P) for a few minutes
before turning the engine off. If you do get the overheat
warning, seeEngine Overheating on page 5-26.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet. Then turn your wheels into the
curb if facing downhill or into traffic if facing uphill.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
Start your engine.
Shift into a gear.
Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. SeeScheduled Maintenance on
page 6-4for more information. Things that are especially
important in trailer operation are automatic transmission
uid (don’t overll), engine oil, axle lubricant, belt,
cooling system and brake system. Each of these is
covered in this manual. If you’re trailering, it’s a
good idea to review these sections before you start
your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
Trailer Wiring Harness
The trailer wiring is a four-wire harness assembly. The
wires are blunted and taped to the wiring harness.
The harness and wiring are stored under the vehicle on
the driver’s side. The harness has no connector and
should be wired by a qualied electrical technician. The
technician can use the following color code chart
when connecting the wiring harness to your trailer.
Black: Ground wire.
Yellow: Left turn lamps.
Dark Green: Right turn lamps.
Brown: Parking lamps.
Securely attach the harness to the trailer, then tape or
strap it to your vehicle’s frame rail. Be sure you
leave it loose enough so the wiring doesn’t bend or
break, but not so loose that it drags on the ground. Store
the harness in its original place. Wrap the harness
together and tie it neatly so it won’t be damaged.
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A. Remote Positive Terminal. SeeJump Starting on
page 5-37for more information.
B. Coolant Surge Tank. SeeEngine Coolant on
page 5-23for more information.
C. Engine Oil Dipstick. SeeEngine Oil on page 5-13for
more information.
D. Engine Oil Fill Cap. SeeEngine Oil on page 5-13for
more information.
E. Automatic Transmission Fluid Dipstick. See
Automatic Transmission Fluid on page 5-20for more
information.
F. Engine Cover. SeeEngine Cover on page 5-18for
more information.
G. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. SeeEngine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-19for more information.
H. Remote Negative Terminal. SeeJump Starting
on page 5-37for more information.
I. Power Steering Reservoir. SeePower Steering Fluid
on page 5-31for more information.
J. Brake Master Cylinder. SeeBrakes on page 5-33for
more information.
K. Underhood Fuse Block Cover. SeeFuses and
Circuit Breakers on page 5-84for more information.
L. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. SeeWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-31for more information.Engine Oil
Checking Engine Oil
It is a good idea to check your engine oil every time you
get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil
must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick handle is a yellow loop. See
Engine Compartment Overview on page 5-12for
the location of the engine oil dipstick.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to
drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil
dipstick might not show the actual level.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or
cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again,
keeping the tip down, and check the level.
5-13

To inspect or replace the lter, do the following:
1. Remove the two bolts on the engine air cleaner/lter
and lift off the cover.
2. Twist out the old engine air cleaner/lter and
replace it, if necessary.
3. Reinstall the cover.
{CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/lter
off can cause you or others to be burned.
The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it helps
to stop ame if the engine backres. If it is not
there and the engine backres, you could
be burned. Do not drive with it off, and be
careful working on the engine with the air
cleaner/ lter off.
Notice:If the air cleaner/lter is off, a backre can
cause a damaging engine re. And, dirt can
easily get into your engine, which will damage it.
Always have the air cleaner/lter in place when you
are driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change the
Automatic Transmission Fluid
A good time to check your automatic transmission uid
level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the uid and lter at the rst oil change
after 25,000 miles (41 500 km) if the vehicle is mainly
driven under one or more of these conditions:
In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F (32°C) or higher
In hilly or mountainous terrain
When doing frequent trailer towing
Uses such as found in taxi, police or delivery
service
If you do not use your vehicle under any of these
conditions, change the uid and lter at the rst oil
change after 50,000 miles (83 000 km).
SeeScheduled Maintenance on page 6-4.
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Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps:
The transmission dipstick
handle may have this
symbol on it or say
TRANS/LOCK.
The transmission dipstick is located on the passenger’s
side of the vehicle in the rear of the engine
compartment. SeeEngine Compartment Overview on
page 5-12for more information on location.
1. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick
and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and
then pull it back out again.3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower
level. The uid level must be in the COLD area,
below the cross-hatched area, for a cold check or in
the HOT area or cross-hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the uid level is in the acceptable range, push the
dipstick back in all the way; then ip the handle
down to lock the dipstick in place.
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