2004 CHEVROLET AVALANCHE brakes

Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from
driving in at or rolling terrain.
If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you are
planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make
your trips safer and more enjoyable. SeeOff-Road
Driving with Your Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicle on
page 4-20for information about driving off-road.
Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all uid
levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system
and transmission. These parts can work hard
on mountain roads.
Know how to go down hills. The most important
thing to know is this: let your engine do some of
the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go
down a steep or long hill.
{CAUTION:
If you do not shift down, your brakes could get
so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down
to let your engine assist your brakes on a
steep downhill slope.
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{CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the
ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have
to do all the work of slowing down. They could
get so hot that they would not work well. You
would then have poor braking or even none
going down a hill. You could crash. Always have
your engine running and your vehicle in gear
when you go downhill.
Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to
a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine
and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
Stayin your own lane when driving on two-lane roads
in hills or mountains. Do not swing wide or cut across
the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you
stay in your own lane.
As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could
be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an
accident.
You may see highway signs on mountains that warn
of special problems. Examples are long grades,
passing or no-passing zones, a falling rocks area or
winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate
action.
Winter Driving
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What is the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it is
about freezing (32°F; 0°C) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition — smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow — drive with caution.
If you have traction assist, keep the system on. It will
improve your ability to accelerate when driving on
a slippery road. But you can turn the traction system off
if your vehicle ever gets stuck in sand, mud, ice or
snow. SeeIf You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
on page 4-49. Even though your vehicle has a traction
system, you will want to slow down and adjust your
driving to the road conditions. SeeTraction Assist
System (TAS) on page 4-9.
If you do not have a traction system, accelerate gently.
Try not to break the fragile traction. If you accelerate
too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface
under the tires even more.Your anti-lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability
when you make a hard stop on a slippery road.
Even though you have an anti-lock braking system, you
will want to begin stopping sooner than you would on
dry pavement. SeeBraking on page 4-6.
Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ne until
you hit a spot that is covered with ice. On an
otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can not reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads are
clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake
before you are on it. Try not to brake while you are
actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering
maneuvers.
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Q:What if I want to add heavier equipment to my
vehicle?
A:You can add heavier equipment on the front of the
vehicle if you compensate for it by carrying fewer
passengers, less cargo, or by positioning cargo
towards the rear. This has the effect of reducing the
load on the front. However, the front GAWR, rear
GAWR and the GVWR must never be exceeded.
{CAUTION:
On some vehicles equipped with certain front
mounted equipment, such as a snow plow, it
may be possible to load the front axle to the
front GAWR but not have enough weight on
the rear axle to have proper braking
performance. If your brakes can not work
properly, you could have a crash. To help your
brakes work properly when a snow plow is
installed, always follow the snow plow
manufacturer or installer’s recommendation for
rear ballast to ensure a proper front and rear
weight distribution ratio, even though the
actual front weight may be less than the front
GAWR, and the total vehicle weight is less
than the GVWR. Maintaining a proper front and
rear weight distribution ratio is necessary to
provide proper braking performance.
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Q:What is total vehicle reserve capacity?
A:This is the difference between your GVWR and the
weight of your truck with full fuel and passengers. It
is the amount of weight you can add to your
vehicle before reaching your GVWR. Keep in mind
that reserve capacity numbers are intended as
a guide when selecting the amount of equipment or
cargo your truck can carry. If you are unsure of
your truck’s front, rear or total weight, go to a weigh
station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can
also help you with this.
The total vehicle reserve capacity for your vehicle
can be found in the lower right corner of the
Certication/Tire label as shown previously.
See your dealer for additional advice and information
about using a snow plow on your vehicle. Also,
seeLoading Your Vehicle on page 4-55.
Truck-Camper Loading Information
Your vehicle was neither designed nor intended to carry
a slide-in type camper.
Notice:Adding a slide-in camper or similar
equipment to your vehicle can damage it, and the
repairs would not be covered by your warranty.
Do not install a slide-in camper or similar equipment
on your vehicle.
Trailer Recommendations
You must subtract your hitch loads from the Cargo
Weight Rating (CWR). CWR is the maximum weight of
the load your vehicle can carry. It doesn’t include
the weight of the people inside. But you can gure about
150 lbs. (68 kg) for each seat. The total cargo load
must not be more than your vehicle’s CWR.
Weigh your vehicle with the trailer attached, so that you
won’t go over the GVWR or GAWR. If you are using
a weight-distributing hitch, weigh the vehicle without the
spring bars in place.
You’ll get the best performance if you spread out the
weight of your load the right way, and if you choose the
correct hitch and trailer brakes.
For more information, seeTowing a Trailer on page 4-68.
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Towing a Trailer
{CAUTION:
If you do not use the correct equipment and
drive properly, you can lose control when you
pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too
heavy, the brakes may not work well — or even
at all. You and your passengers could be
seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have
followed all the steps in this section. Ask your
dealer for advice and information about towing
a trailer with your vehicle.
Notice:Pulling a trailer improperly can damage
your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered
by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow
the advice in this part, and see your dealer for
important information about towing a trailer with
your vehicle.To identify the vehicle trailering capacity of your vehicle,
you should read the information in “Weight of the
Trailer” that appears later in this section.
If yours was built with trailering options, as many are,
it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, accelleration, braking, durability
and fuel economy. Successful, safe trailering takes
correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers. So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
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If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will weigh
more than 5,000 lbs. (2 270 kg) be sure to use a
properly mounted weight-distributing hitch and sway
control of the proper size. This equipment is very
important for proper vehicle loading and good handling
when driving. You should always use a sway control
if your trailer will weigh more than these limits. You can
ask a hitch dealer about sway controls.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Always leave just enough slack so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 lbs. (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its own brakes – and they must be
adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s
hydraulic brake system only if:
The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
The trailer’s brake system will use less than 0.02
cubic inch (0.3 cc) of uid from your vehicle’s
master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems
won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
Your vehicle is not equipped with Stabilitrak®.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at
the port on the master cylinder that sends the uid
to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and nally break off. Use steel
brake tubing.
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Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check all trailer hitch parts and
attachments, safety chains, electrical connector, lamps,
tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric
brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then
apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure
the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice:Making very sharp turns while trailering
could cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than
normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders,
curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or
sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
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