2004 CADILLAC CTS V change wheel

Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It is important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on
the news happen on curves. Here is why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to
the same laws of physics when driving on curves.
The traction of the tires against the road surface makes
it possible for the vehicle to change its path when
you turn the front wheels. If there is no traction, inertia
will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If
you have ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you
will understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the
condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at
which the curve is banked, and your speed. While
you are in a curve, speed is the one factor you
can control.Suppose you are steering through a sharp curve.
Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control
systems — steering and acceleration — have to do
their work where the tires meet the road. Adding
the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those
places. You can lose control. SeeTraction Control
System (TCS) (CTS) on page 4-8orTraction Control
System (TCS) (CTS-V) on page 4-9.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on
the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you
want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should
adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds
are based on good weather and road conditions. Under
less favorable conditions you will want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach
a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front
wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the
curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to
accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then
accelerate gently into the straightaway.
4-13

Loss of Control
Let us review what driving experts say about what
happens when the three control systems — brakes,
steering, and acceleration — do not have enough friction
where the tires meet the road to do what the driver
has asked.
In any emergency, do not give up. Keep trying to
steer and constantly seek an escape route or area
of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not overdriving
those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
are not rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too
much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip
and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration
skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels
to spin.
A cornering skid is best handled by easing your foot off
the accelerator pedal.Remember: Any traction control system helps avoid only
the acceleration skid. If your traction control system is
off, then an acceleration skid is also best handled
by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel, or other material is on the road. For safety, you
will want to slow down and adjust your driving to
these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration,
or braking, including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear. Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues — such as enough water, ice, or packed snow
on the road to make a mirrored surface — and
slow down when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti-lock brake system (ABS) helps
avoid only the braking skid.
4-17

Dolly Towing
Your vehicle can be towed using a dolly. To tow your
vehicle using a dolly, follow these steps:
1. Put the rear wheels on the dolly.
2. Put the vehicle in PARK (P) for an automatic
transmission or in NEUTRAL for a manual
transmission.3. Set the parking brake and then remove the key.
4. Clamp the steering wheel in a straight-ahead
position with a clamping device designed for towing.
5. Release the parking brake.
Loading Your Vehicle
It is very important to know how much weight your
vehicle can carry. This weight is called the vehicle
capacity weight and includes the weight of all occupants,
cargo and all nonfactory-installed options. Two labels
on your vehicle show how much weight it may properly
carry, the Tire and Loading Information label and the
Certication label.
{CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can
break, and it can change the way your vehicle
handles. These could cause you to lose
control and crash. Also, overloading can
shorten the life of your vehicle.
4-34

Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
When you tow a trailer, your vehicle may need a
different turn signal asher and/or extra wiring. Check
with your dealer. The arrows on your instrument
panel will ash whenever you signal a turn or lane
change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also
ash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn,
change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument
panel will ash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
you are seeing your signal when they are not.
It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the
trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving on Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes so much
that they would get hot and no longer work well.
On a long uphill grade, shift down and reduce
your speed to around 45 mph (70 km/h) to
reduce the possibility of the engine and the
transmission overheating.
Parking on Hills
{CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) for an automatic transmission or into gear
for a manual transmission.
When parking uphill, turn your wheels away from
the curb. When parking downhill, turn your wheels
into the curb.
2. Have someone place chocks behind the
trailer wheels.
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Run-Flat Tires (CTS-V)
If your vehicle has run-at tires, there is no spare tire
and no tire changing equipment. Run-at tires perform
so well without any air that a Tire Pressure Monitor
(TPM) is used to alert you if a tire has lost pressure.
SeeTire Pressure Monitor System (CTS-V) on
page 5-70.
{CAUTION:
When the low tire warning light is displayed on
the instrument panel cluster, your vehicle’s
handling capabilities will be reduced during
severe maneuvers. If you drive too fast, you
could lose control of your vehicle. You or
others could be injured. Don’t drive over
55 mph (90 km/h) when the low tire warning
light is displayed. Drive cautiously and check
your tire pressures as soon as you can.If a tire goes at, you won’t need to stop on the side of
the road to change the tire. You can just keep on
driving. The tire can operate effectively with no air
pressure for up to 65 miles (105 km) at speeds up to
55 mph (90 km/h). The shorter the distance you
drive and the slower the speed, the greater the chance
that the tire will not have to be replaced. When a tire
is lled with air, it provides a cushion between the road
and the wheel. Because you won’t have this cushion
when driving on a deated run-at tire, try to avoid
potholes that could damage your wheel and require
replacement of it.
Some road hazards can damage a tire beyond repair.
This damage could occur even before you’ve driven
on the tire in a deated condition. When a tire has been
damaged, or if you’ve driven any distance on a
run-at tire, check with an authorized run-at tire service
center to determine whether the tire can be repaired
or should be replaced. To maintain your vehicle’s run-at
feature, all replacement tires must be self-supporting
tires. As soon as possible, contact the nearest
authorized GM or run-at servicing facility for inspection
and repair or replacement. To locate the nearest GM
or run-at servicing facility, call Roadside Service.
SeeRoadside Service on page 7-6for details.
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The Tire and Loading Information label (tire information
placard) is attached, to either, the center pillar near the
driver’s door latch post or on the rear edge of the driver’s
side rear passenger door. The label shows the size of
your vehicle’s original tires and the correct ination
pressure for your vehicle’s tires when they are cold.
SeeInation - Tire Pressure on page 5-67andLoading
Your Vehicle on page 4-34for additional information.
Your vehicle’s TPM system can alert you about a low tire
pressure condition but it does not replace normal tire
maintenance. SeeTire Inspection and Rotation on
page 5-72andTires on page 5-58.
Each TPM sensor has a unique identication code that
is matched to one of the four tire positions on your
vehicle. Any time you rotate your vehicle’s tires
or replace one or more TPM sensors, the identication
codes will need to be matched to the new tire and
wheel position. The TPM matching process is performed
in a specic sequence and time limit. See your dealer
for service.Notice:Do not use a tire sealant if your vehicle
is equipped with Tire Pressure Monitors.
The liquid sealant can damage the tire pressure
monitor sensors.
The TPM system operates on a radio frequency subject
to Federal Communications Commission (FCC) Rules
and with Industry and Science Canada.
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules
and with RSS-210 of Industry and Science Canada.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) This device may not cause harmful interference, and
(2) this device must accept any interference received
including interference that may cause undesired
operation of the device.
Changes or modications to this system by other than
an authorized service facility could void authorization to
use this equipment.
5-71

Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened.
See “Wheel Nut Torque” underCapacities and
Specications on page 5-111.
{CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to
which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts
become loose after a time. The wheel could
come off and cause an accident. When you
change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from
places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle.
In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a
paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a
scraper or wire brush later, if you need to,
to get all the rust or dirt off. SeeChanging a
Flat Tire on page 5-81.
When It Is Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s
time for new tires is to
check the treadwear
indicators, which will
appear when your tires
have only 1/16 inch
(1.6 mm) or less of
tread remaining.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements
are true:
You can see the indicators at three or more places
around the tire.
You can see cord or fabric showing through the
tire’s rubber.
The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged
deep enough to show cord or fabric.
The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that
can’t be repaired well because of the size or
location of the damage.
5-73

If a Tire Goes Flat
It is unusual for a tire to “blowout” while you’re driving,
especially if you maintain your tires properly. See
Tires on page 5-58. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much
more likely to leak out slowly. But if you should ever
have a “blowout”, here are a few tips about what
to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the at tire will create a drag that
pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the
accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel rmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to
a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a
skid and may require the same correction you’d use
in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the
accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by
steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be
very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently
brake to a stop — well off the road if possible.If a tire goes at, and your vehicle has a spare tire,
seeChanging a Flat Tire on page 5-81. This information
shows you how to use your vehicle’s tire changing
equipment and how to change a at tire safely.
{CAUTION:
Lifting a vehicle and getting under it to do
maintenance or repairs is dangerous without
the appropriate safety equipment and training.
The jack provided with your vehicle is
designed only for changing a at tire. If it is
used for anything else, you or others could be
badly injured or killed if the vehicle slips off
the jack. Use the jack provided with your
vehicle only for changing a at tire.
5-79