2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LATCH

CAUTION: The left and right fuel rails are replaced
as an assembly. Do not attempt to separate rail
halves at connector tube (Fig. 22). Due to design of
tube, it does not use any clamps. Never attempt to
install a clamping device of any kind to tube. When
removing fuel rail assembly for any reason, be care-
ful not to bend or kink tube.
(1) Remove fuel tank filler tube cap.
(2) Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Proce-
dure.
(3) Remove negative battery cable at battery.
(4) Remove air duct at throttle body air box.
(5) Remove air box at throttle body.
(6) Remove wiring at rear of generator.
(7) Disconnect fuel line latch clip and fuel line at
fuel rail. A special tool will be necessary for fuel line
disconnection. Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings.
(8) Remove vacuum lines at throttle body.(9) Disconnect electrical connectors at all 8 fuel
injectors. To remove connector refer to (Fig. 23). Push
red colored slider away from injector (1). While push-
ing slider, depress tab (2) and remove connector (3)
from injector. The factory fuel injection wiring har-
ness is numerically tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2, etc.) for
injector position identification. If harness is not
tagged, note wiring location before removal.
(10) Disconnect electrical connectors at throttle
body.
(11) Disconnect electrical connectors at MAP and
IAT sensors.
Fig. 21 Fuel Injector Rail/Fuel DamperÐ4.0L Engine
1 - INJ. #1
2 - INJ. #2
3 - INJ. #3
4 - INJ. #4
5 - INJ. #5
6 - INJ. #6
7 - FUEL INJECTOR RAIL
8 - FUEL DAMPER
9 - PRESSURE TEST PORT CAP
10 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
11 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
Fig. 22 FUEL INJECTOR RAIL - 4.7L V-8 EN
1 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
2 - INJ.#7
3 - INJ.#5
4 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
5 - INJ.#3
6 - FUEL INJECTOR RAIL
7 - INJ.#1
8 - CONNECTOR TUBE
9 - INJ.#2
10 - INJ.#4
11 - INJ.#6
12 - INJ.#8
13 - PRESSURE TEST PORT CAP
14 - 16 FUEL DELIVERYWJ
FUEL RAIL (Continued)

(12) Remove first three ignition coils on each bank
(cylinders #1, 3, 5, 2, 4 and 6). Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.
(13) Remove 4 fuel rail mounting bolts (Fig. 22).
(14) Gently rock and pullleftside of fuel rail until
fuel injectors just start to clear machined holes in
cylinder head. Gently rock and pullrightside of rail
until injectors just start to clear cylinder head holes.
Repeat this procedure (left/right) until all injectors
have cleared cylinder head holes.
(15) Remove fuel rail (with injectors attached)
from engine.
(16) If fuel injectors are to be removed, refer to
Fuel Injector Removal/Installation.
REMOVAL - 4.0L
The fuel damper is not serviced separately.
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER CON-
STANT FUEL PRESSURE EVEN WITH ENGINE OFF.
THIS PRESSURE MUST BE RELEASED BEFORE
SERVICING FUEL RAIL.
(1) Remove fuel tank filler tube cap.
(2) Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Proce-
dure.
(3) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.(4) Remove air tube at top of throttle body. Note:
Some engine/vehicles may require removal of air
cleaner ducts at throttle body.
(5) Disconnect electrical connectors at all 6 fuel
injectors. To remove connector refer to (Fig. 25). Push
red colored slider away from injector (1). While push-
ing slider, depress tab (2) and remove connector (3)
from injector. The factory fuel injection wiring har-
ness is numerically tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2, etc.) for
injector position identification. If harness is not
tagged, note wiring location before removal.
(6) Remove oxygen sensor wiring clip nuts at fuel
rail mounting studs (certain emissions packages
only).
(7) Disconnect fuel supply line latch clip and fuel
line at fuel rail. Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings.
(8) Disconnect throttle cable at throttle body. Refer
to Throttle Cable Removal/Installation.
Fig. 23 Remove/Install Injector ConnectorÐ4.7L V-8
Engine
Fig. 24 Fuel Rail MountingÐ4.0L Engine
1 - INJ. #1
2 - INJ. #2
3 - INJ. #3
4 - INJ. #4
5 - INJ. #5
6 - INJ. #6
7 - FUEL INJECTOR RAIL
8 - FUEL DAMPER
9 - PRESSURE TEST PORT CAP
10 - MOUNTING BOLTS (4)
11 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 17
FUEL RAIL (Continued)

(9) Disconnect speed control cable at throttle body
(if equipped). Refer to Speed Control Cable.
(10) Disconnect automatic transmission cable at
throttle body (if equipped).
(11) Remove cable routing bracket at intake mani-
fold.
(12) Clean dirt/debris from each fuel injector at
intake manifold.
(13) Remove fuel rail mounting nuts/bolts (Fig.
24).
(14) Remove fuel rail by gently rocking until all
fuel injectors have cleared machined holes at intake
manifold.
(15) If fuel injectors are to be removed, refer to
Fuel Injector Removal/Installation.
INSTALLATION
INSTALLATION - 4.7L
(1) If fuel injectors are to be installed, refer to Fuel
Injector Removal/Installation.
(2) Apply a small amount of engine oil to each fuel
injector o-ring. This will help in fuel rail installation.
(3) Position fuel rail/fuel injector assembly to
machined injector openings in cylinder head.
(4) Guide each injector into cylinder head. Be care-
ful not to tear injector o-rings.(5) Pushrightside of fuel rail down until fuel
injectors have bottomed on cylinder head shoulder.
Pushleftfuel rail down until injectors have bot-
tomed on cylinder head shoulder.
(6) Install 4 fuel rail mounting bolts and tighten to
27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install ignition coils. Refer to Ignition Coil
Removal/Installation.
(8) Connect electrical connectors to throttle body.
(9) Connect electrical connectors to MAP and IAT
sensors.
(10) Connect electrical connectors at all fuel injec-
tors. To install connector, refer to (Fig. 23). Push con-
nector onto injector (1) and then push and lock red
colored slider (2). Verify connector is locked to injec-
tor by lightly tugging on connector.
(11) Connect vacuum lines to throttle body.
(12) Connect fuel line latch clip and fuel line to
fuel rail. Refer to Quick-Connect Fittings.
(13) Connect wiring to rear of generator.
(14) Install air box to throttle body.
(15) Install air duct to air box.
(16) Connect battery cable to battery.
(17) Start engine and check for leaks.
INSTALLATION - 4.0L
(1) If fuel injectors are to be installed, refer to Fuel
Injector Removal/Installation.
(2) Clean each injector bore at intake manifold.
(3) Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to
each injector o-ring. This will aid in installation.
(4) Position tips of all fuel injectors into the corre-
sponding injector bore in intake manifold. Seat injec-
tors into manifold.
(5) Install and tighten fuel rail mounting bolts to
11  3 N´m (100  25 in. lbs.) torque.
(6) Connect electrical connectors at all fuel injec-
tors. To install connector, refer to (Fig. 25). Push con-
nector onto injector (1) and then push and lock red
colored slider (2). Verify connector is locked to injec-
tor by lightly tugging on connector.
(7) Connect fuel line and fuel line latch clip to fuel
rail. Refer Quick-Connect Fittings.
(8) Install protective cap to pressure test port fit-
ting (if equipped).
(9) Install cable routing bracket to intake mani-
fold.
(10) Connect throttle cable at throttle body.
(11) Connect speed control cable at throttle body (if
equipped).
(12) Connect automatic transmission cable at
throttle body (if equipped).
(13) Install oxygen sensor wiring clip nuts to fuel
rail mounting studs (certain emissions packages
only).
Fig. 25 Remove/Install Injector ConnectorÐ4.0L
Engine
14 - 18 FUEL DELIVERYWJ
FUEL RAIL (Continued)

INLET FILTER
REMOVAL
The fuel pump inlet filter (strainer) is located on
the bottom of fuel pump module (Fig. 42). The fuel
pump module is located on top of fuel tank.
The fuel pump inlet filter (strainer) is located on
the bottom of fuel pump module (Fig. 42). The fuel
pump module is located on top of fuel tank.
(1) Remove fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Removal/
Installation.
(2) Remove fuel pump module. Refer to Fuel Pump
Module Removal/Installation.
(3) Remove filter by prying from bottom of module
with 2 screwdrivers. Filter is snapped to module.
(4) Clean bottom of pump module.
INSTALLATION
The fuel pump inlet filter (strainer) is located on
the bottom of fuel pump module (Fig. 42). The fuel
pump module is located on top of fuel tank.
(1) Snap new filter to bottom of module.
(2) Install fuel pump module. Refer to Fuel Pump
Module Removal/Installation.
(3) Install fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Removal/
Installation.
QUICK CONNECT FITTING
DESCRIPTION
Different types of quick-connect fittings are used to
attach various fuel system components, lines and tubes.
These are: a single-tab type, a two-tab type or a plastic
retainer ring type. Some are equipped with safety latch
clips. Some may require the use of a special tool for dis-
connection and removal. Refer to Quick-Connect Fit-
tings Removal/Installation for more information.
CAUTION: The interior components (o-rings, clips)
of quick-connect fittings are not serviced sepa-
rately, but new plastic spacers are available for
some types. If service parts are not available, do
not attempt to repair the damaged fitting or fuel line
(tube). If repair is necessary, replace the complete
fuel line (tube) assembly.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - QUICK-CONNECT
FITTINGS
Also refer to Fuel Tubes/Lines/Hoses and Clamps.
Different types of quick-connect fittings are used to
attach various fuel system components, lines and
tubes. These are: a single-tab type, a two-tab type or
a plastic retainer ring type. Safety latch clips are
used on certain components/lines. Certain fittings
may require use of a special tool for disconnection.
DISCONNECTING
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM IS UNDER A CON-
STANT PRESSURE (EVEN WITH ENGINE OFF).
BEFORE SERVICING ANY FUEL SYSTEM HOSE,
FITTING OR LINE, FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE MUST
BE RELEASED. REFER TO FUEL SYSTEM PRES-
SURE RELEASE PROCEDURE.
CAUTION: The interior components (o-rings, spac-
ers) of some types of quick-connect fitting are not
serviced separately. If service parts are not avail-
able, do not attempt to repair a damaged fitting or
fuel line. If repair is necessary, replace complete
fuel line assembly.
(1) Perform fuel pressure release procedure. Refer
to Fuel Pressure Release Procedure.
(2) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(3) Clean fitting of any foreign material before dis-
assembly.
(4)2±Button Type Fitting:This type of fitting is
equipped with a push-button located on each side of
quick-connect fitting (Fig. 43). Press on both buttons
simultaneously for removal. Special tools are not
required for disconnection.
Fig. 42 Fuel Pump Inlet Filter
1 - FUEL PUMP MODULE
2 - FUEL PUMP INLET FILTER
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 27

depressed, pull fitting from component.The plas-
tic retainer ring must be pressed squarely
into fitting body. If this retainer is cocked
during removal, it may be difficult to discon-
nect fitting. Use an open-end wrench on
shoulder of plastic retainer ring to aid in dis-
connection.
(b) After disconnection, plastic retainer ring will
remain with quick-connect fitting connector body.
(c) Inspect fitting connector body, plastic retainer
ring and fuel system component for damage.
Replace as necessary.(9)Latch Clips:Depending on vehicle model and
engine, 2 different types of safety latch clips are used
(Fig. 50) or (Fig. 51). Type-1 is tethered to fuel line
and type-2 is not. A special tool will be necessary to
disconnect fuel line after latch clip is removed. The
latch clip may be used on certain fuel line/fuel rail
connection, or to join fuel lines together.
Fig. 46 DISCONNECTING SINGLE-TAB TYPE
FITTING
1 - PULL TAB
2 - SCREWDRIVER
3 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
Fig. 47 REMOVING PULL TAB
1 - FUEL TUBE OR FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENT
2 - PULL TAB
3 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
4 - FUEL TUBE STOP
Fig. 48 TYPICAL 2±TAB TYPE FITTING
1 - TAB(S)
2 - QUICK-CONNECT FITTING
Fig. 49 PLASTIC RETAINER RING TYPE FITTING
1 - FUEL TUBE
2 - QUICK CONNECT FITTING
3 - PUSH
4 - PLASTIC RETAINER
5 - PUSH
6 - PUSH
7 - PUSH
8 - PUSH
WJFUEL DELIVERY 14 - 29
QUICK CONNECT FITTING (Continued)

(a) Type 1: Pry up on latch clip with a screw-
driver (Fig. 50).
(b) Type 2: Separate and unlatch 2 small arms
on end of clip (Fig. 51) and swing away from fuel
line.
(c) Slide latch clip toward fuel rail while lifting
with screwdriver.
(d) Insert special fuel line removal tool (Snap-On
number FIH 9055-1 or equivalent) into fuel line(Fig. 52). Use tool to release locking fingers in end
of line.
(e) With special tool still inserted, pull fuel line
from fuel rail.
(f) After disconnection, locking fingers will
remain within quick-connect fitting at end of fuel
line.
(10) Disconnect quick-connect fitting from fuel sys-
tem component being serviced.
CONNECTING
(1) Inspect quick-connect fitting body and fuel sys-
tem component for damage. Replace as necessary.
(2) Prior to connecting quick-connect fitting to
component being serviced, check condition of fitting
and component. Clean parts with a lint-free cloth.
Lubricate with clean engine oil.
(3) Insert quick-connect fitting into fuel tube or
fuel system component until built-on stop on fuel
tube or component rests against back of fitting.
(4) Continue pushing until a click is felt.
(5) Single-tab type fitting: Push new tab down
until it locks into place in quick-connect fitting.
(6) Verify a locked condition by firmly pulling on
fuel tube and fitting (15-30 lbs.).
(7) Latch Clip Equipped: Install latch clip (snaps
into position).If latch clip will not fit, this indi-
cates fuel line is not properly installed to fuel
rail (or other fuel line). Recheck fuel line con-
nection.
(8) Connect negative cable to battery.
(9) Start engine and check for leaks.
Fig. 50 LATCH CLIP-TYPE 1
1 - TETHER STRAP
2 - FUEL LINE
3 - SCREWDRIVER
4 - LATCH CLIP
5 - FUEL RAIL
Fig. 51 LATCH CLIP-TYPE 2
1 - LATCH CLIP
Fig. 52 FUEL LINE DISCONNECTION USING
SPECIAL TOOL
1 - SPECIAL FUEL LINE TOOL
2 - FUEL LINE
3 - FUEL RAIL
14 - 30 FUEL DELIVERYWJ
QUICK CONNECT FITTING (Continued)

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS........................1
WIND NOISE..........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................2
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DRILLING AND
WELDING............................3
SPECIFICATIONS
BODY LUBRICANTS....................3
SPECIFICATIONS - TORQUE.............4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................4DECKLID/HATCH/LIFTGATE/TAILGATE........5
DOOR - FRONT.........................11
DOORS - REAR.........................19
EXTERIOR.............................25
HOOD.................................33
INSTRUMENT PANEL SYSTEM.............36
INTERIOR..............................69
PAINT.................................81
SEATS................................83
STATIONARY GLASS.....................93
SUNROOF.............................96
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................105
BODY STRUCTURE.....................112
BODY
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-
cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
WJBODY 23 - 1

leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will notalways seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessive
wear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
23 - 2 BODYWJ
BODY (Continued)