2003 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE Timing chain replace

TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND
SPROCKETS
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Remove the fan and shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the crankshaft vibration damper (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION
DAMPER - REMOVAL).
(5) Remove the timing case cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(6) Rotate crankshaft until the ª0º timing mark is
closest to and on the center line with camshaft
sprocket timing mark (Fig. 88).
(7) Remove the oil slinger from the crankshaft.
(8) Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer
(Fig. 89).
(9) Remove the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft
sprocket and timing chain as an assembly.
(10) Installation of the timing chain with the tim-
ing marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets
properly aligned ensures correct valve timing. A worn
or stretched timing chain will adversely affect valvetiming. If the timing chain deflects more than 12.7
mm (1/2 inch) replace it.
INSTALLATION
Assemble the timing chain, crankshaft sprocket
and camshaft sprocket with the timing marks
aligned (Fig. 88).
(1) Apply MopartSilicone Rubber Adhesive Seal-
ant to the keyway in the crankshaft and insert the
key. With the key in the keyway on the crankshaft,
install the assembly on the crankshaft and camshaft.
(2)
Install the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer
(Fig. 89). Tighten the bolt to 68 N´m (50 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) To verify correct installation of the timing
chain, rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions. The cam-
shaft and crankshaft sprocket timing mark should
align (Fig. 88).
(4) Install the crankshaft oil slinger.
(5) Replace the oil seal in the timing case cover
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANK-
SHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT - REMOVAL).
(6) Install the timing case cover and gasket (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT /
CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(7) With the key installed in the crankshaft key-
way, install the vibration damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the serpentine drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(9) Install the fan, hub assembly and shroud
(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN -
INSTALLATION).
(10) Connect negative cable to battery.
Fig. 88 CrankshaftÐCamshaft Alignment
1 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET
2 - TIMING MARKS
3 - CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET
Fig. 89 Camshaft Sprocket and Thrust Plate
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - CAMSHAFT SPROCKET W/INTEGRAL KEY
3 - BOLT AND WASHER
4 - THRUST PLATE
9 - 60 ENGINE - 4.0LWJ

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTIONS
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply. 1. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES -
SPECIFICATIONS).
2. Low oil pressure. 2. Check oil pump, if Ok, check rod
and main bearings for excessive wear.
3. Thin or diluted oil. 3. Change oil and filter.
4. Excessive bearing clearance. 4. Replace as necessary.
5. Excessive end play. 5. Check thrust washers for wear.
6. Crankshaft journal out-of round. 6. Service or replace crankshaft.
7. Loose flywheel or torque
converter.7. Tighten to correct torque
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - LUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR -
REMOVAL).
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN -
REMOVAL).
5. Timing chain cover seal, damaged
or misaligned.5. Replace seal (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/
CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - FRONT -
REMOVAL).
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 67
ENGINE - 4.7L (Continued)

AIR CLEANER HOUSING
REMOVAL - 4.7L
(1) Disconnect air cleaner cover-to-air duct clamp
(Fig. 8).
(2) Disconnect air duct at housing.
(3)Each of the 3 air cleaner housing mount-
ing bolts is attached with 2 nuts (an upper nut
and lower nut). DO NOT REMOVE BOLTS. To
prevent stripping bolts, only remove lower
nuts. The lower housing nuts are located under
left front inner fender (Fig. 8).
(a) To gain access to lower nuts, raise vehicle.
(b) Remove clips retaining rubber inner fender
shield.
(c) Pry back shield enough to gain access to
lower nuts.
(d) Remove 3 nuts.(e) Remove air cleaner assembly from vehicle.
(4) If resonator is to be removed, disconnect
breather tube at resonator, disconnect air duct clamp
at resonator (Fig. 8)and remove 2 resonator mount-
ing bolts (at sides of resonator). Remove resonator
from throttle body by loosening clamp at throttle
body.
INSTALLATION - 4.7L
(1) Position air cleaner assembly to body and
install 3 nuts. Tighten nuts to 10 N´m (93 in. lbs.)
torque.To prevent excessive vibration transmit-
ted through housing, the nuts must be properly
torqued. Do not overtighten nuts.
(2) If resonator was removed: Install resonator and
bolts. Tighten bolts to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.) torque.
Tighten clamp at throttle body to 4 N´m (35 in. lbs.)
torque.
(3) Position fender liner and install clips.
(4) Connect air duct at housing (Fig. 8).
(5) Tighten air duct clamp.
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy.
The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder
with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The
cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing
chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylin-
der heads.
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and
are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are
not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream-
ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn
beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
Fig. 8 Air Cleaner Assembly - 4.7L
1 - AIR DUCT
2 - CLAMPS
3 - AIR CLEANER COVER
4 - CLIPS
5 - HOUSING
6 - HOUSING BOLTS (3)
7 - LOWER HOUSING NUTS (3)
8 - RESONATOR BOLTS
9 - RESONATOR
9 - 84 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
AIR CLEANER ELEMENT (Continued)

(5) Using special tool 8516 press downward on the
valve spring, install rocker arm (Fig. 28).
(6) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
VALVE SPRINGS
DESCRIPTION
The valve springs are made from high strength
chrome silicon steel. The springs are common for
intake and exhaust applications. The valve spring
seat is integral with the valve stem seal, which is a
positive type seal to control lubrication.
VALVE STEM SEALS
DESCRIPTION
The valve stem seals are made of rubber and incor-
porate an integral steel valve spring seat. The inte-
gral garter spring maintains consistent lubrication
control to the valve stems.
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - CYLINDER HEAD
The cylinder heads are made of an aluminum alloy.
The cylinder head features two valves per cylinder
with pressed in powdered metal valve guides. The
cylinder heads also provide enclosures for the timing
chain drain, necessitating unique left and right cylin-
der heads.
DESCRIPTION - VALVE GUIDES
The valve guides are made of powered metal and
are pressed into the cylinder head. The guides are
not replaceable or serviceable, and valve guide ream-
ing is not recommended. If the guides are worn
beyond acceptable limits, replace the cylinder heads.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER HEAD
GASKET
A cylinder head gasket leak can be located between
adjacent cylinders or between a cylinder and the
adjacent water jacket.
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between adjacent cylinders are:
²Loss of engine power
²Engine misfiring
²Poor fuel economy
Possible indications of the cylinder head gasket
leaking between a cylinder and an adjacent water
jacket are:
²Engine overheating
²Loss of coolant
²Excessive steam (white smoke) emitting from
exhaust
²Coolant foaming
CYLINDER-TO-CYLINDER LEAKAGE TEST
To determine if an engine cylinder head gasket is
leaking between adjacent cylinders, follow the proce-
dures in Cylinder Compression Pressure Test (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). An
engine cylinder head gasket leaking between adja-
cent cylinders will result in approximately a 50±70%
reduction in compression pressure.
CYLINDER-TO-WATER JACKET LEAKAGE TEST
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE
ENGINE IS OPERATING WITH COOLANT PRES-
SURE CAP REMOVED.
Fig. 28 Rocker ArmÐRemoval
1 - CAMSHAFT
2 - SPECIAL TOOL 8516
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 97
ROCKER ARM / ADJUSTER ASSEMBLY (Continued)

VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HYDRAULIC LASH
ADJUSTER
A tappet-like noise may be produced from several
items. Check the following items.
(1) Engine oil level too high or too low. This may
cause aerated oil to enter the adjusters and cause
them to be spongy.
(2) Insufficient running time after rebuilding cylin-
der head. Low speed running up to 1 hour may be
required.
(3) Turn engine off and let set for a few minutes
before restarting. Repeat this several times after
engine has reached normal operating temperature.
(4) Low oil pressure.
(5) The oil restrictor in cylinder head gasket or the
oil passage to the cylinder head is plugged with
debris.
(6) Air ingested into oil due to broken or cracked
oil pump pick up.
(7) Worn valve guides.
(8) Rocker arm ears contacting valve spring
retainer.
(9) Rocker arm loose, adjuster stuck or at maxi-
mum extension and still leaves lash in the system.
(10) Oil leak or excessive cam bore wear in cylin-
der head.
(11) Faulty lash adjuster.a. Check lash adjusters for sponginess while
installed in cylinder head and cam on camshaft at
base circle. Depress part of rocker arm over adjuster.
Normal adjusters should feel very firm. Spongy
adjusters can be bottomed out easily.
b. Remove suspected lash adjusters, and replace.
c. Before installation, make sure adjusters are at
least partially full of oil. This can be verified by little
or no plunger travel when lash adjuster is depressed.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negitive cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(8) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(9) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(10) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper tim-
ing mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark (Fig.
9).
(11) Verify the V8 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position (Fig. 11). Rotate the
crankshaft one turn if necessary.
(12) Remove the crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(14) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8515 (Fig. 10).
NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(15) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V8 mark on the camshaft drive gear
(Fig. 11).
(16) Remove the right side secondary chain ten-
sioner (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIM-
ING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(17) Remove the cylinder head access plug (Fig.
29).
(18) Remove the right side secondary chain guide
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
9 - 98 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

Bearing
MarkSIZE USED WITH
JOURNAL SIZE
.025 US.025 mm 50.983-50.967 mm
(.001 in.) (2.0073-2.0066 in.)
Std.STANDARD 50.992-51.008 mm
(2.0076-2.0082 in.)
.250 US.250 mm 50.758-50.742 mm
(.010 in.) (1.9984-1.9978 in.)
(9) Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify
your bearing selection prior to final assembly.
(10) Once you have selected the proper insert,
install the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod
bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90É turn.
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the con-
necting rod and crankshaft journal flange (Fig. 52).
Refer to Engine Specifications for the proper clear-
ance. Replace the connecting rod if the side clearance
is not within specification.
CRANKSHAFT
DESCRIPTION
The 4.7L crankshaft is constructed of nodular cast
iron. The crankshaft for the 4.7L H.O. is constructed
offorged steel.The crankshaft is a cross shaped
four throw design with eight counterweights for bal-
ancing purposes. The crankshaft is supported by five
select fit main bearings with the number three serv-
ing as the thrust washer location. The main journalsof the crankshaft are cross drilled to improve rod
bearing lubrication. The number eight counterweight
has provisions for crankshaft position sensor target
wheel mounting. The select fit main bearing mark-
ings are located on the rear side of the target wheel.
The crankshaft oil seals are one piece design. The
front oil seal is retained in the timing chain cover,
and the rear seal is pressed in to a bore formed by
the cylinder block and the bedplate assembly.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING
CRANKSHAFT END PLAY
(1) Mount a dial indicator to front of engine with
the locating probe on nose of crankshaft (Fig. 53).
(2) Move crankshaft all the way to the rear of its
travel.
(3) Zero the dial indicator.
(4) Move crankshaft all the way to the front and
read the dial indicator. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
SPECIFICATIONS) for end play specification.
Fig. 51 Measuring Bearing Clearance with
Plastigage
1 - PLASTIGAGE SCALE
2 - COMPRESSED PLASTIGAGE
Fig. 52 Checking Connecting Rod Side Clearance -
Typical
Fig. 53 Checking Crankshaft End PlayÐTypical
WJENGINE - 4.7L 9 - 111
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS (Continued)

Check the connecting rod for signs of twist or bend-
ing.
Check the piston for taper and elliptical shape
before it is fitted into the cylinder bore (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/PISTON & CONNECT-
ING ROD - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check the piston for scoring, or scraping marks in
the piston skirts. Check the ring lands for cracks
and/or deterioration.
INSTALLATION
(1) Before installing piston and connecting rod
assemblies into the bore, install the piston rings.
(2)
Immerse the piston head and rings in clean
engine oil. Position a ring compressor over the piston
and rings. Tighten ring compressor.Ensure position
of rings do not change during this operation.
(3)Position bearing onto connecting rod. Ensure that
hole in bearing shell aligns with hole in connecting rod.
Lubricate bearing surface with clean engine oil.
(4) Install Special Tool 8507 Connecting Rod
Guides into connecting rod bolt threads (Fig. 72).(5) The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore
surface with an raised ªFº indicating installation
position. This mark must be pointing toward the
front of engine on both cylinder banks. The connect-
ing rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the engine
(Fig. 73).
(6) Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with
engine oil.
(7) Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal
is on the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and pis-
ton into cylinder bore and carefully position connect-
ing rod guides over crankshaft journal.
(8) Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a ham-
mer handle. While at the same time, guide connect-
ing rod into position on rod journal.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
(9) Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with
engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing.
Tighten bolts to 27 N´m (20 ft. lbs.) plus 90É.
(10) Install the following components:
²Cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLIN-
DER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
²Timing chain and cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S)
- INSTALLATION).
Fig. 72 Piston and Connecting RodÐInstallation
1 - ªFº TOWARD FRONT OF ENGINE
2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT
3 - RING COMPRESSOR
4 - SPECIAL TOOL 8507
Fig. 73 Piston and Connecting Rod Orientation
1 - MAJOR THRUST SIDE OF PISTON
2 - OIL SLINGER SLOT
9 - 120 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ
PISTON & CONNECTING ROD (Continued)

OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the oil pan and pick-up tube (Refer to
9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN - REMOVAL).
(2) Remove the timing chain cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the timing chains and tensioners
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING
BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKETS - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the four bolts, primary timing chain
tensioner and the oil pump.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove oil pump cover screws and lift off cover
plate.
(2) Remove pump inner and outer rotors.
NOTE: Once the oil pressure relief valve, cup plug,
and pin are removed, the pump assembly must be
replaced.
(3) If it is necessary to remove the pressure relief
valve, drive the roll pin from pump housing and
remove cup plug, spring and valve.
CLEANING
(1) Wash all parts in a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
CAUTION: Oil pump pressure relief valve and
spring should not be removed from the oil pump. If
these components are disassembled and or
removed from the pump the entire oil pump assem-
bly must be replaced.
(1) Clean all parts thoroughly. Mating surface of
the oil pump housing should be smooth. If the pump
cover is scratched or grooved the oil pump assembly
should be replaced.
(2) Lay a straight edge across the pump cover sur-
face (Fig. 97). If a 0.025 mm (0.001 in.) feeler gauge
can be inserted between the cover and the straight
edge the oil pump assembly should be replaced.
(3) Measure the thickness of the outer rotor (Fig.
98). If the outer rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.472 in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.(4) Measure the diameter of the outer rotor. If the
outer rotor diameter measures at 85.925 mm (3.382
in.) or less the oil pump assembly must be replaced.
(5) Measure the thickness of the inner rotor (Fig.
99). If the inner rotor thickness measures at 12.005
mm (0.472 in.) or less then the oil pump assembly
must be replaced.
(6) Slide outer rotor into the body of the oil pump.
Press the outer rotor to one side of the oil pump body
and measure clearance between the outer rotor and
the body (Fig. 100). If the measurement is 0.235mm
(0.009 in.) or more the oil pump assembly must be
replaced.
(7) Install the inner rotor in the into the oil pump
body. Measure the clearance between the inner and
outer rotors (Fig. 101). If the clearance between the
rotors is .150 mm (0.006 in.) or more the oil pump
assembly must be replaced.
(8) Place a straight edge across the body of the oil
pump (between the bolt holes), if a feeler gauge of
.095 mm (0.0038 in.) or greater can be inserted
between the straightedge and the rotors, the pump
must be replaced (Fig. 102).
NOTE: The 4.7 Oil pump is released as an assem-
bly. There are no DaimlerChrysler part numbers for
Sub-Assembly components. In the event the oil
pump is not functioning or out of specification it
must be replaced as an assembly.
Fig. 97 Checking Oil Pump Cover Flatness
1 - STRAIGHT EDGE
2 - FEELER GAUGE
3 - OIL PUMP COVER
9 - 134 ENGINE - 4.7LWJ