2003 GMC YUKON DENALI engine

You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
L..Jw can trap exhaust gases ,..der your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside.
CO could
overcome you and kill you. You can’t see
it or
smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn’t collect there.
Open a window just
a little on the side of the
vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will
help keep
CO out.
Run your engine only
as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When
you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That
is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that
you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery
to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later
on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for
a while.
4-40

Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost
all the way
to preserve the heat. Start the engine
again and repeat this only when you feel really
uncomfortable from the cold. But do it as little as
possible. Preserve the fuel as long
as you can. Po help
keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do
some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or
so until
help comes.
If You Are Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice
or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will
need
to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your
wheels
too fast. The method known as “rocking” can
help you get
out when you’re stuck, but you must
use caution.
you let yeerr tires spin at high speed, -..zy
can explode, and you or others could be
injured.
And, the transmission or other parts of
the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an
engine compartment fire or other damage.
When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above
35 mph
(55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
Nofice: Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of
your vehicle
as well as the tires. If you spin the
wheels too fast while shifting your transaxle back
and forth, you can destroy your transaxle. See
“Rocking Your Vehicle
To Get It Out.”
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle,
see
Tire Chains on page 5-62.
4-41

To identify the trailering capacity for your vehicle, you
should read the information in “Weight of the Trailer” that
appears later in this section.
If yours was built with trailering options, as many are,
it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different
than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means
changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and
it has
to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time-tested,
important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of
these are important for your safety and that of your
passengers.
So please read this section carefully before
you pull a trailer.
0
0
If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
There are many different laws, including speed limit
restrictions, having
to do with trailering. Make sure
your rig will be legal, not only where you live
but also where you’ll be driving.
A good source for
this information can be state or provincial police. Consider using a
sway control
if your trailer will
weigh
5,000 Ibs. (2 270 kg) or less. You should
always use a sway control
if your trailer will weigh
more than
5,000 Ibs. (2 270 kg). You can ask a
hitch dealer about sway controls.
Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first
500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine,
axle or other parts could be damaged.
Then, during the first
500 miles (800 km) that you
tow a trailer, don’t drive over
50 mph (80 km/h)
and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your
engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at
the heavier loads.
You can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift
the transmission
to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a
lower gear selection
if the transmission shifts
too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly
conditions). See “Tow/Haul Mode” under Towing
a
Trailer on page 4-47.
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
0 the weight of the trailer,
the weight of the trailer tongue
0 and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
4-48

Tow/Haul Mode
The tow/haul feature assists when pulling a heavy trailer
or a large or heavy load. The purpose
of the tow/haul
mode
is to:
Reduce the frequency and improve the predictability
of transmission shifts when pulling a heavy trailer or
a large or heavy load.
Provide the same solid shift feel when pulling a
heavy trailer or a large or heavy load as when
the vehicle is unloaded.
Improve control of vehicle speed while requiring
less throttle pedal activity when pulling a heavy
trailer or a large or heavy load.
Your vehicle is provided with a button at the end of the
shift lever which when pressed enables tow/haul.
When the button is pressed, a light on the instrument
panel will illuminate
to indicate that tow/haul has
been selected. Tow/haul may be turned
off by pressing
the button again, at which time the indicator light on
the instrument panel will turn off. The vehicle will
automatically turn off tow/haul every time it is started. Tow/haul
is designed
to be most effective when the
vehicle and trailer combined weight is at least
75 percent
of the vehicle’s Gross Combination Weight Rating
(GCWR). See Weight
of the Trailer later in this section.
Tovdhaul is mcst useful wder the f~l!~~ing driving
conditions:
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
0 When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
load through rolling terrain.
load
in stop and go traffic.
When pulling a heavy trailer or a large or heavy
load in busy parking
lots where improved low
speed control of the vehicle is desired.
Operating the vehicle in tow/haul when lightly loaded or
with no trailer at all will not cause damage. However,
there is no benefit
to the selection of tow/haul when the
vehicle is unloaded. Such a selection when unloaded may result in unpleasant engine and transmission driving
characteristics and reduced fuel economy. Tow/haul
is recommended only when pulling a heavy trailer or a
large or heavy load.
4-49

Hitches Safety Chains
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules
to follow:
If you’ll be pulling a trailer that, when loaded, will
weigh more than
5,000 Ibs. (2 270 kg), be sure to
use a properly mounted, weight-distributing
hitch and sway control of the proper size. This
equipment is very important for proper vehicle
loading and good handling when you’re driving.
Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch?
If you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don’t seal them,
deadly carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust
can get into your vehicle. See Engine Exhaust
on
page 2-29. Dirt and water can, too.
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer
to help prevent the tongue from
contacting the road
if it becomes separated from
the hitch. Always leave just enough slack
so you can
turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 2,000 Ibs. (900 kg)
loaded, then it needs its
own brakes - and they must be
adequate. Be sure
to read and follow the instructions
for the trailer brakes
so you’ll be able to install,
adjust and maintain them properly.
Since your vehicle is equipped with the
Stabilitrak@system, your trailer brake system cannot tap
into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system.
4-52

Driving with a Trailer
If you have a rear-most window open and you
pull a trailer with your vehicle, carbon
monoxide (CO) could come into your vehicle.
You can’t see or smell CO.
It can cause
unconsciousness or death. See “Engine
Exhaust” in the Index.
To maximize your safety
when towing a trailer:
Have your exhaust system inspected for
leaks, and make necessary repairs before
starting on your trip.
Keep the rear-most windows closed.
If exhaust does come into your vehicle
through a window in the rear or another
opening, drive with your front, main
heating or cooling system on and with the
fan on any speed. This will bring fresh,
outside air into your vehicle.
Do not use
the comfort control setting for maximum
air because
it only recirculates the air
inside your vehicle. See “Comfort
1 Controls” in the Index. Towing a trailer requires a certain amount
of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get
to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of
handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer.
And always keep
in mind that the vehicle you are
driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as
responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector,
lamps, tires and mirror adjustment.
If the trailer has
electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and
then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be
sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your
electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the
load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer
brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead a5
you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer.
This can help you avoid situations that require
heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when
you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal
longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the
passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
4-53

Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then,
to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand
to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your
hand
to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible,
have someone guide you.
Making Turns
Notice: Making very sharp turns while trailering
could
cause the trailer to come in contact with the
vehicle. Your vehicle could
be damaged. Avoid
making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns
than normal.
Do this so your trailer won’t strike
soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects.
Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in
advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever
you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up,
the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers
you’re about
to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even
if the bulbs on the trailer
are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind
4-54
you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s
important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer
bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start
down a long or steep downgrade.
If you don’t shift
down, you might have to use your brakes
so much that
they would get hot and no longer work well.
You can tow in
DRIVE (D). You may want to shift the
transmission
to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear
selection
if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
You may also want
to activate the tow/haul mode if the
transmission shifts
too often. See “Tow/Haul Mode”
under Towing a Trailer
on page 4-47.
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades,
consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower
temperature than at normal altitudes.
If you turn your
engine
off immediately after towing at high altitude
on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs
similar
to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the
engine run while parked (preferably on level ground)
with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) for a
few minutes before turning the engine
off. If you do get
the overheat warning, see Engine Overheating
on
page 5-25.

Parking on Hills
You really should not park your vehicle, with a
trailer attached, on a hill.
If something goes
wrong, your rig could start to move. People
can be injured, and both your vehicle and the
trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s
how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the
PARK
(P) yet.
wheels.
regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your
5. Release the regular brakes.
parking brake
and shift into PARK
(P).
When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down
while you:
start your engine,
shift into a gear, and
release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the
chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re
pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more
on this. Things that are especially important in trailer
operation are automatic transmission fluid (don’t overfill),
engine
oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and
brake system. Each
of these is covered in this manual,
and the Index will help you find them quickly. If
you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections
before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts
are tight.
4-55