Page 222 of 394

Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable
care suited to existing conditions, and by not
ªoverdrivingº those conditions. But skids are always
possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle's
three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels
aren't rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too
much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip
and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration
skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels
to spin.
A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best
handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the
accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want
the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough,
your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready
for a second skid if it occurs.Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice,
gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you'll
want to slow down and adjust your driving to these
conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery
surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and
vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try
your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration
or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a
lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires
to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery
until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning
clues Ð such as enough water, ice or packed snow
on the road to make a ªmirrored surfaceº Ð and slow
down when you have any doubt.
If you have the anti-lock braking system, remember: It
helps avoid only the braking skid. If you do not have
anti-lock, then in a braking skid (where the wheels are
no longer rolling), release enough pressure on the
brakes to get the wheels rolling again. This restores
steering control. Push the brake pedal down steadily
when you have to stop suddenly. As long as the wheels
are rolling, you will have steering control.
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Page 233 of 394

Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet
the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and
the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You'll have a lot less traction or ªgripº and will need to
be very careful.What's the worst time for this? ªWet ice.º Very cold
snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet
ice can be even more trouble because it may offer
the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it's
about freezing (32ÉF; 0ÉC) and freezing rain begins
to fall. Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand
crews can get there.
Whatever the condition ± smooth ice, packed, blowing
or loose snow ± drive with caution.
Keep your traction control system on. It improves your
ability to accelerate when driving on a slippery road.
Even though your vehicle has a traction control system,
you'll want to slow down and adjust your driving to
the road conditions. See
Traction Control System (TCS)
on page 4-8.
Unless you have the anti-lock braking system, you'll
want to brake very gently, too. (If you do have anti-lock,
see
Braking on page 4-5. This system improves your
vehicle's stability when you make a hard stop on a
slippery road.) Whether you have the anti-lock braking
system or not, you'll want to begin stopping sooner than
you would on dry pavement. Without anti-lock brakes,
if you feel your vehicle begin to slide, let up on the
brakes a little. Push the brake pedal down steadily to
get the most traction you can.
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Page 234 of 394

Remember, unless you have anti-lock, if you brake
so hard that your wheels stop rolling, you'll just slide.
Brake so your wheels always keep rolling and you can
still steer.
·Whatever your braking system, allow greater
following distance on any slippery road.
·Watch for slippery spots. The road might be ®ne
until you hit a spot that's covered with ice. On
an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in
shaded areas where the sun can't reach: around
clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass
may remain icy when the surrounding roads
are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you,
brake before you are on it. Try not to brake
while you're actually on the ice, and avoid sudden
steering maneuvers.
If You're Caught in a Blizzard
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a
serious situation. You should probably stay with
your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near
help and you can hike through the snow. Here are
some things to do to summon help and keep yourself
and your passengers safe:
·Turn on your hazard ¯ashers.
·Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that
you've been stopped by the snow.
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Page 235 of 394

·Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make
body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags,
¯oor mats ± anything you can wrap around
yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
{CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your
vehicle. This can cause deadly CO (carbon
monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could
overcome you and kill you. You can't see it or
smell it, so you might not know it is in your
vehicle. Clear away snow from around the
base of your vehicle, especially any that is
blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around
again from time to time to be sure snow
doesn't collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the
vehicle that's away from the wind. This will
help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves
fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little
faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator
slightly. This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and
it keeps the battery charged. You will need a
well-charged battery to restart the vehicle, and possibly
for signaling later on with your headlamps. Let the
heater run for a while.
4-27
Page 245 of 394

Hitches
It's important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are
a few reasons why you'll need the right hitch. Here
are some rules to follow:
·The rear bumper on your vehicle is not intended for
hitches. Do not attach rental hitches or other
bumper-type hitches to it. Use only a
frame-mounted hitch that does not attach to the
bumper.
·Will you have to make any holes in the body of
your vehicle when you install a trailer hitch? If
you do, then be sure to seal the holes later when
you remove the hitch. If you don't seal them, deadly
carbon monoxide (CO) from your exhaust can get
into your vehicle. See
Engine Exhaust on
page 2-28. Dirt and water can, too.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle
and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the
tongue of the trailer so that the tongue will not drop to
the road if it becomes separated from the hitch.
Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the
hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer's recommendation for attaching
safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper.
Always leave just enough slack so you can turn
with your rig. And, never allow safety chains to drag on
the ground.
Trailer Brakes
Does your trailer have its own brakes? Be sure to read
and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so
you'll be able to install, adjust and maintain them
properly.
Your vehicle has anti-lock brakes. Do not try to tap into
your vehicle's brake system. If you do, both brake
systems won't work well, or at all.
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Page 256 of 394

While refueling, let the fuel cap hang by the tether
below the fuel ®ll opening.
To remove the fuel cap, turn it slowly to the left
(counterclockwise).
{CAUTION:
If you get fuel on yourself and then something
ignites it, you could be badly burned. Fuel can
spray out on you if you open the fuel cap too
quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is
nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather.
Open the fuel cap slowly and wait for any
ªhissº noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all
the way.
Be careful not to spill fuel. Clean fuel from painted
surfaces as soon as possible. See
Cleaning the Outside
of Your Vehicle on page 5-85. When ®lling the tank
do not over®ll by squeezing in much more fuel after the
pump shuts off.
When you put the fuel cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make
sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can
determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly
installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the
atmosphere. See
Malfunction Indicator Lamp on
page 3-38.
5-8
Page 261 of 394

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. SeeWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-43.
B. Battery. See
Battery on page 5-47.
C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See
Jump Starting on
page 5-48.
D. Upper Underhood Fuse Block. See ªUpperhood
Fuse Block (Upper)º under
Fuses and Circuit
Breakers on page 5-91.
E. Lower Underhood Fuse Block. See ªUnderhood
Fuse Block (Lower)º under
Fuses and Circuit
Breakers on page 5-91.
F. Radiator Pressure Cap. See
Radiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-29.
G. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See
Cooling System
on page 5-32.
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir. See
Power Steering
Fluid on page 5-42.I. Electric Cooling Fan. See
Cooling System on
page 5-32.
J. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See ªChecking Engine Oilº
under
Engine Oil on page 5-16.
K. Engine Oil Dipstick. See ªChecking Engine Oilº
under
Engine Oil on page 5-16.
L. Bleed Valves (underneath engine shield). See ªHow
to Add Coolant to the Radiatorº under
Cooling
System on page 5-32.
M. Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See
Automatic Transaxle
Fluid on page 5-24.
N. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See
Brakes on
page 5-44.
O. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See
Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
5-13
Page 263 of 394

A. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir. SeeWindshield
Washer Fluid on page 5-43.
B. Battery. See
Battery on page 5-47.
C. Remote Positive (+) Terminal. See
Jump Starting on
page 5-48.
D. Upper Underhood Fuse Block. See ªUpperhood
Fuse Block (Upper)º under
Fuses and Circuit
Breakers on page 5-91.
E. Lower Underhood Fuse Block. See ªUnderhood
Fuse Block (Lower)º under
Fuses and Circuit
Breakers on page 5-91.
F. Radiator Pressure Cap. See
Radiator Pressure Cap
on page 5-29.
G. Engine Coolant Recovery Tank. See
Cooling System
on page 5-32
H. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir (low in engine
compartment). SeePower Steering Fluid on
page 5-42.I. Electric Cooling Fan. See
Cooling System on
page 5-32.
J. Engine Oil Dipstick. See ªChecking Engine Oilº
under
Engine Oil on page 5-16.
K. Engine Oil Fill Cap. See ªChecking Engine Oilº
under
Engine Oil on page 5-16.
L. Bleed Valves (underneath engine shield). See ªHow
to Add Coolant to the Radiatorº under
Cooling
System on page 5-32.
M. Transaxle Fluid Dipstick. See
Automatic Transaxle
Fluid on page 5-24.
N. Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir. See
Brakes on
page 5-44.
O. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter. See
Engine Air
Cleaner/Filter on page 5-22.
5-15