2002 JEEP LIBERTY ESP

WASHER FLUID LEVEL
SWITCH
DESCRIPTION
The washer fluid level switch is a single pole, sin-
gle throw reed-type switch mounted at the rear of
the sump area near the bottom of the washer reser-
voir (Fig. 16). Only the molded plastic switch mount-
ing flange and the integral connector receptacle are
visible when the switch is installed in the reservoir.
A short nipple formation extends from the inner sur-
face of the switch mounting flange, and a barb on the
nipple near the switch mounting flange is pressed
through a rubber grommet seal installed in the
mounting hole of the reservoir. A small, molded plas-
tic float has two pivot pins near its center that are
snapped into two receptacles near the ends of two
stanchions that extend toward the float from the
switch nipple formation. A small magnet is secured
within the end of the float nearest the switch nipple
formation, and a reed switch is concealed within the
nipple. A diagnostic resistor is connected between the
two switch terminals within the switch mounting
flange. The washer fluid level switch cannot be
adjusted or repaired. If faulty or damaged, the switch
must be replaced.
OPERATION
The washer fluid level switch uses a pivoting,
oblong float to monitor the level of the washer fluid
in the washer reservoir. The float contains a small
magnet. When the float pivots, the proximity of this
magnet to a stationary reed switch within the nipple
formation of the switch changes. When the fluid level
in the washer reservoir is at or above the float level,
the float moves to a vertical position, the influence of
the float magnetic field is removed from the reed
switch, and the normally open reed switch contacts
open. When the fluid level in the washer reservoir
falls below the level of the pivoting float, the float
moves to a horizontal position, the influence of the
float magnetic field is applied to the reed switch, and
the contacts of the normally open reed switch close.
The washer fluid level switch is connected to the
vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take
out and connector of the headlamp and dash wire
harness. The switch is connected in series between
ground and the washer fluid switch sense input to
the ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC).
The switch receives a path to ground at all times
through another take out of the headlamp and dash
wire harness with a single eyelet terminal connector
that is secured under a ground screw near the front
of the left front fender inner shield in the engine
compartment. When the switch closes, the EMIC
senses the ground on the washer fluid switch sense
circuit. The EMIC is programmed to respond to this
input by illuminating the washer fluid indicator and
by sounding an audible chime tone warning.
The washer fluid level switch input to the EMIC
can be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools
and methods. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRU-
MENT CLUSTER/WASHER FLUID INDICATOR -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
REMOVAL
The washer fluid level switch can be removed from
the washer reservoir without removing the reservoir
from the vehicle.
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the splash shield from the right front
fender wheel house. (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/
FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD -
REMOVAL).
(4) Disconnect the front or rear washer hose from
one of the barbed outlet nipples of the washer pump/
motor unit and allow the washer fluid to drain into a
clean container for reuse.
(5) Disconnect the headlamp and dash wire har-
ness connector for the washer fluid level switch from
the switch connector receptacle (Fig. 17).
Fig. 16 Washer Fluid Level Switch
1 - MOUNTING FLANGE
2 - BARBED NIPPLE
3 - FLOAT
4 - RESERVOIR
5 - GROMMET SEAL
6 - PIVOT
7 - MAGNET
8 - CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE
KJFRONT WIPERS/WASHERS 8R - 17

WARNING: BE SURE THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH
ALWAYS IS IN THE OFF POSITION, UNLESS THE
PROCEDURE REQUIRES IT TO BE ON.
WARNING: SET THE PARKING BRAKE WHEN
WORKING ON ANY VEHICLE. AN AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE IN PARK. A MANUAL
TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE IN NEUTRAL.
WARNING: OPERATE THE ENGINE ONLY IN A
WELL-VENTILATED AREA.
WARNING: KEEP AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS
WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING, ESPECIALLY THE
FAN AND BELTS.
WARNING: TO PREVENT SERIOUS BURNS, AVOID
CONTACT WITH HOT PARTS SUCH AS THE RADIA-
TOR, EXHAUST MANIFOLD(S), TAIL PIPE, CATA-
LYTIC CONVERTER AND MUFFLER.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW FLAME OR SPARKS
NEAR THE BATTERY. GASES ARE ALWAYS
PRESENT IN AND AROUND THE BATTERY.
WARNING: ALWAYS REMOVE RINGS, WATCHES,
LOOSE HANGING JEWELRY AND AVOID LOOSE
CLOTHING.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIRING HARNESS
TROUBLESHOOTING TOOLS
When diagnosing a problem in an electrical circuit
there are several common tools necessary. These tools
are listed and explained below.
²Jumper Wire - This is a test wire used to con-
nect two points of a circuit. It can be used to bypass
an open in a circuit.
WARNING: NEVER USE A JUMPER WIRE ACROSS
A LOAD, SUCH AS A MOTOR, CONNECTED
BETWEEN A BATTERY FEED AND GROUND.
²Voltmeter - Used to check for voltage on a cir-
cuit. Always connect the black lead to a known good
ground and the red lead to the positive side of the
circuit.
CAUTION: Most of the electrical components used
in today's vehicles are Solid State. When checking
voltages in these circuits, use a meter with a 10 -
megohm or greater impedance rating.²Ohmmeter - Used to check the resistance
between two points of a circuit. Low or no resistance
in a circuit means good continuity.
CAUTION: Most of the electrical components used
in today's vehicles are Solid State. When checking
resistance in these circuits use a meter with a 10 -
megohm or greater impedance rating. In addition,
make sure the power is disconnected from the cir-
cuit. Circuits that are powered up by the vehicle's
electrical system can cause damage to the equip-
ment and provide false readings.
²Probing Tools - These tools are used for probing
terminals in connectors (Fig. 5). Select the proper
size tool from Special Tool Package 6807, and insert
it into the terminal being tested. Use the other end
of the tool to insert the meter probe.
INTERMITTENT AND POOR CONNECTIONS
Most intermittent electrical problems are caused
by faulty electrical connections or wiring. It is also
possible for a sticking component or relay to cause a
problem. Before condemning a component or wiring
assembly, check the following items.
²Connectors are fully seated
²Spread terminals, or terminal push out
²Terminals in the wiring assembly are fully
seated into the connector/component and locked into
position
²Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. Any amount
of corrosion or dirt could cause an intermittent prob-
lem
²Damaged connector/component casing exposing
the item to dirt or moisture
²Wire insulation that has rubbed through causing
a short to ground
²Some or all of the wiring strands broken inside
of the insulation
²Wiring broken inside of the insulation
Fig. 5 PROBING TOOL
1 - SPECIAL TOOL 6801
2 - PROBING END
KJ8W-01 WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION8Wa-01-7
WIRING DIAGRAM INFORMATION (Continued)

CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary.
Inspect valve springs. Replace as
necessary.
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ENGINE GASKET
SURFACE PREPARATION
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components and multi-layer
steel cylinder head gaskets.
Neveruse the following to clean gasket surfaces:
²Metal scraper
²Abrasive pad or paper to clean cylinder block
and head
²High speed power tool with an abrasive pad or a
wire brush (Fig. 1)
NOTE: Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets require
a scratch free sealing surface.
Only use the following for cleaning gasket surfaces:
²Solvent or a commercially available gasket
remover
²Plastic or wood scraper (Fig. 1)
²Drill motor with 3M RolocŸ Bristle Disc (white
or yellow) (Fig. 1)
CAUTION: Excessive pressure or high RPM (beyond
the recommended speed), can damage the sealing
surfaces. The mild (white, 120 grit) bristle disc is
recommended. If necessary, the medium (yellow, 80
grit) bristle disc may be used on cast iron surfaces
with care.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - REPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
Fig. 1 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - ABRASIVE PAD
2 - 3M ROLOCŸ BRISTLE DISC
3 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 9
ENGINE - 3.7L (Continued)

(21) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, due to the design of the cylin-
der head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components (Fig. 8). (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
INSTALLATION
NOTE: The cylinder head bolts are tightened using
a torque plus angle procedure. The bolts must be
examined BEFORE reuse. If the threads are necked
down the bolts should be replaced. The M8 head
bolts, should not be reused. Use new M8 bolts.
Necking can be checked by holding a straight edge
against the threads. If all the threads do not contact
the scale, the bolt should be replaced (Fig. 9).
CAUTION: When cleaning cylinder head and cylin-
der block surfaces, DO NOT use a metal scraper
because the surfaces could be cut or ground. Use
only a wooden or plastic scraper.
(1) Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block
mating surfaces (Fig. 10).(2) Position the new cylinder head gasket on the
locating dowels.
CAUTION: When installing cylinder head, use care
not damage the tensioner arm or the guide arm.
(3) Position the cylinder head onto the cylinder
block. Make sure the cylinder head seats fully over
the locating dowels.
NOTE: The four smaller cylinder head mounting
bolts require sealant to be added to them before
installing. Failure to do so may cause leaks.
Fig. 7 Cylinder Head Access Plugs
1 - RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
2 - LEFT CYLINDER HEAD ACCESS PLUG
Fig. 8 Proper Tool Usage For Surface Preparation
1 - PLASTIC/WOOD SCRAPER
Fig. 9 Checking Cylinder Head Bolts for Stretching
(Necking)
1 - STRETCHED BOLT
2 - THREADS ARE NOT STRAIGHT ON LINE
3 - THREADS ARE STRAIGHT ON LINE
4 - UNSTRETCHED BOLT
9 - 22 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
CYLINDER HEAD - LEFT (Continued)

VISUAL TEST METHOD
With the engine cool, remove the coolant pressure
cap. Start the engine and allow it to warm up until
thermostat opens.
If a large combustion/compression pressure leak
exists, bubbles will be visible in the coolant.
COOLING SYSTEM TESTER METHOD
WARNING: WITH COOLING SYSTEM TESTER IN
PLACE, PRESSURE WILL BUILD UP FAST. EXCES-
SIVE PRESSURE BUILT UP, BY CONTINUOUS
ENGINE OPERATION, MUST BE RELEASED TO A
SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER PERMIT PRES-
SURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
Install Cooling System Tester 7700 or equivalent to
pressure cap neck. Start the engine and observe the
tester's pressure gauge. If gauge pulsates with every
power stroke of a cylinder a combustion pressure
leak is evident.
CHEMICAL TEST METHOD
Combustion leaks into the cooling system can also
be checked by using Bloc-Chek Kit C-3685-A or
equivalent. Perform test following the procedures
supplied with the tool kit.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
(2) Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the right side
exhaust manifold.
(4) Drain the engine coolant. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(5) Lower the vehicle.
(6) Remove the intake manifold. Refer to proce-
dure.
(7) Remove the cylinder head cover. Refer to proce-
dure.
(8) Remove the fan shroud. Refer to COOLING
SYSTEM.
(9) Remove oil fill housing from cylinder head.
(10) Remove accessory drive belt. Refer to COOL-
ING SYSTEM.
(11) Rotate the crankshaft until the damper timing
mark is aligned with TDC indicator mark.
(12) Verify the V6 mark on the camshaft sprocket
is at the 12 o'clock position. Rotate the crankshaft
one turn if necessary.
(13) Remove the crankshaft damper. Refer to pro-
cedure.
(14) Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to pro-
cedure.
(15) Lock the secondary timing chains to the idler
sprocket using Special Tool 8429 Timing Chain Hold-
ing Fixture.NOTE: Mark the secondary timing chain prior to
removal to aid in installation.
(16) Mark the secondary timing chain, one link on
each side of the V6 mark on the camshaft drive gear.
(17) Remove the right side secondary chain ten-
sioner. Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets in this
section.
(18) Remove the cylinder head access plug.
(19) Remove the right side secondary chain guide.
Refer to Timing Chain and Sprockets in this section.
CAUTION: The nut on the right side camshaft
sprocket should not be removed for any reason, as
the sprocket and camshaft sensor target wheel is
serviced as an assembly. If the nut was removed
retorque nut to 5 N´m (44 in. lbs.).
(20) Remove the retaining bolt and the camshaft
drive gear.
CAUTION: Do not allow the engine to rotate. severe
damage to the valve train can occur.
CAUTION: Do not overlook the four smaller bolts at
the front of the cylinder head. Do not attempt to
remove the cylinder head without removing these
four bolts.
CAUTION: Do not hold or pry on the camshaft tar-
get wheel for any reason. A damaged target wheel
can result in a vehicle no start condition.
NOTE: The cylinder head is attached to the cylinder
block with twelve bolts.
(21) Remove the cylinder head retaining bolts.
(22) Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Discard
the gasket.
CAUTION: Do not lay the cylinder head on its gas-
ket sealing surface, do to the design of the cylinder
head gasket any distortion to the cylinder head
sealing surface may prevent the gasket from prop-
erly sealing resulting in leaks.
CLEANING
To ensure engine gasket sealing, proper surface
preparation must be performed, especially with the
use of aluminum engine components (Fig. 22). (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 31
CYLINDER HEAD - RIGHT (Continued)

CRANKSHAFT MAIN
BEARINGS
STANDARD PROCEDURE
MAIN BEARING - FITTING
SELECT FIT IDENTIFICATION
The main bearings are ªselect fitº to achieve proper
oil clearances. For main bearing selection, the crank-
shaft position sensor target wheel has grade identifi-
cation marks stamped into it (Fig. 44). These marks
are read from left to right, corresponding with jour-
nal number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. The crankshaft position
sensor target wheel is mounted to the number 8
counter weight on the crankshaft.
INSPECTION
Wipe the inserts clean and inspect for abnormal
wear patterns and for metal or other foreign material
imbedded in the lining. Normal main bearing insert
wear patterns are illustrated.
Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrap-
ings or irregular wear patterns.
Inspect the upper insert locking tabs for damage.Replace all damaged or worn bearing inserts.
Fig. 43 BEDPLATE TIGHTENING SEQUENCE
Fig. 44 Main Bearing Markings on Target Wheel
-Typical
1 - REARMOST CRANKSHAFT COUNTER WEIGHT
2 - TARGET WHEEL
3 - MAIN BEARING SELECT FIT MARKINGS
KJENGINE - 3.7L 9 - 45
CRANKSHAFT (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the
engine, particularly at the area of the suspected leak.
If an oil leak source is not readily identifiable, the
following steps should be followed:
(1) Do not clean or degrease the engine at this
time because some solvents may cause rubber to
swell, temporarily stopping the leak.
(2) Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by
manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for
approximately 15 minutes. Check the oil dipstick to
make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated
with a bright yellow color under a black light.
(3) Using a black light, inspect the entire engine
for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area
of oil leak. If the oil leak is found and identified,
repair per service manual instructions.
(4) If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at var-
ious speeds for approximately 24km (15 miles), and
repeat inspection.If the oil leak source is not pos-
itively identified at this time, proceed with the air
leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
(1) Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose
at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap
nipple.
(2) Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head
cover. Cap or plug the PCV valve grommet.
(3) Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and
regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to
more than 20.6 kpa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
(4) Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5
psi maximum while applying soapy water at the sus-
pected source. Adjust the regulator to the suitable
test pressure that provide the best bubbles which
will pinpoint the leak source. If the oil leak is
detected and identified, repair per service manual
procedures.
(5) If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area,
refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area
Leak.
(6) If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply
and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps.
Install the PCV valve and breather cap hose.
(7) Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using
a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various
speeds approximately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the
engine for signs of an oil leak by using a black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, camshaft bore
cup plugs oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter runoff, and
main bearing cap to cylinder block mating sur-
faces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crank-
case as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks
in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
(1) Remove oil pressure sending unit (Fig. 70)and
install gauge assembly C-3292.
(2) Run engine until thermostat opens.
(3) Oil Pressure:
²Curb IdleÐ25 Kpa (4 psi) minimum
²3000 rpmÐ170 - 550 KPa (25 - 80 psi)
(4) If oil pressure is 0 at idle, shut off engine.
Check for a clogged oil pick-up screen or a pressure
relief valve stuck open.
9 - 60 ENGINE - 3.7LKJ
LUBRICATION (Continued)

crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, replace compo-
nent(s) as necessary.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE
Engine diagnosis is helpful in determining the
causes of malfunctions not detected and remedied by
routine maintenance.
These malfunctions may be classified as either
mechanical (e.g., a strange noise), or performance
(e.g., engine idles rough and stalls).Refer to the Engine Mechanical and the Engine
Performance diagnostic charts, for possible causes
and corrections of malfunctions (Refer to 9 - ENGINE
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MECHANICAL)
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
- PERFORMANCE).
For fuel system diagnosis, (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING).
Additional tests and diagnostic procedures may be
necessary for specific engine malfunctions that can-
not be isolated with the Service Diagnosis charts.
Information concerning additional tests and diagno-
sis is provided within the following:
²Cylinder Compression Pressure Test
²Cylinder Combustion Pressure Leakage Test
²Engine Cylinder Head Gasket Failure Diagnosis
²Intake Manifold Leakage Diagnosis
²Lash Adjuster (Tappet) Noise Diagnosis
²Engine Oil Leak Inspection
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE DIAGNOSIS - PERFORMANCE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT START 1. Weak battery. 1. Test battery. Charge or replace
as necessary. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections.2. Clean and tighten battery
connections. Apply a coat of light
mineral grease to terminals.
3. Faulty starter. 3. Test starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
4. Faulty coil(s) or control unit. 4. Test and replace as needed.
(Refer to Appropriate Diagnostic
Information)
5. Incorrect spark plug gap. 5. Set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL
- SPECIFICATIONS)
6. Contamination in fuel system. 6. Clean system and replace fuel
filter.
7. Faulty fuel pump. 7. Test fuel pump and replace as
needed. (Refer to Appropriate
Diagnostic Information)
8. Incorrect engine timing. 8. Check for a skipped timing
belt/chain.
KJENGINE9s-5
ENGINE - 2.4L (Continued)