2002 JEEP LIBERTY check engine

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
BELT SLIPS 1. Belt slipping because of
insufficient tension.1. Replace automatic belt tensioner.
2. Belt routed 2. Verify belt routing.
incorrectly
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt or pulley subjected to
substance (belt dressing, oil
ethylene glycol) that has reduced
friction.4. Replace belt and clean pulleys.
5. Driven component bearing failure. 5. Replace faulty component
bearing.
6. Belt glazed and hardened from
heat and excessive slippage.6. Replace belt.
ªGROOVE JUMPING9(BELT
DOES NOT MAINTAIN CORRECT
POSITION ON PULLEY)1. Belt tension either too high or too
low.1. Replace automatic belt tensioner.
2. Belt routed 2. Verify belt routing.
incorrectly.
3. Incorrect belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Pulley(s) not within design
tolerance.4. Replace pulley(s).
5. Foreign object(s) in grooves. 5. Remove foreign objects from
grooves.
6. Pulley misalignment. 6. Check and replace.
7. Belt cord line is broken. 7. Replace belt.
BELT BROKEN (NOTE: IDENTIFY
AND CORRECT PROBLEM
BEFORE NEW BELT IS
INSTALLED)1. Excessive tension. 1. Replace belt and automatic belt
tensioner.
2. Incorrect belt. 2. Replace belt.
3. Tensile member damaged during
belt installation.3. Replace belt.
4. Severe misalignment. 4. Check and replace.
5. Bracket, pulley, or bearing failure. 5. Replace defective component and
belt.
NOISE (OBJECTIONABLE
SQUEAL, SQUEAK, OR RUMBLE
IS HEARD OR FELT WHILE
DRIVE BELT IS IN OPERATION)1. Belt slippage. 1. Replace belt or automatic belt
tensioner.
2. Bearing noise. 2. Locate and repair.
3. Belt misalignment. 3. Replace belt.
4. Belt-to-pulley mismatch. 4. Install correct belt.
REMOVAL - 2.4L ENGINE
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these sche-
matics and the Belt Routing Label, use the sche-
matics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located
in the engine compartment.CAUTION: DO NOT LET TENSIONER ARM SNAP
BACK TO THE FREEARM POSITION, SEVERE DAM-
AGE MAY OCCUR TO THE TENSIONER.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
(2) Rotate belt tensioner until it contacts its stop.
Remove belt, then slowly rotate the tensioner into
the freearm position.
7s - 16 ACCESSORY DRIVEKJ
DRIVE BELTS -2.4L (Continued)

INSTALLATION - 2.4L ENGINE
NOTE: The belt routing schematics are published
from the latest information available at the time of
publication. If anything differs between these sche-
matics and the Belt Routing Label, use the sche-
matics on Belt Routing Label. This label is located
in the engine compartment.
Belt tension is not adjustable. Belt adjustment is
maintained by an automatic ( spring load ) belt ten-
sioner.
(1) Check condition of all pulleys.
CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory
drive belt, the belt MUST be routed correctly. If not,
the engine may overheat due to the water pump
rotating in the wrong direction.
(2) Install new belt (Fig. 3) or (Fig. 4). Route the
belt around all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate
the tensioner arm until it contacts its stop position.
Route the belt around the idler and slowly let the
tensioner rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is
seated onto all pulleys.
(3) With the drive belt installed, inspect the belt
wear indicator. On 2.4L Engines the gap between the
tang and the housing stop ( measurement A ) must
not exceed 24 mm (.94 inches).
Fig. 3 BELT ROUTING 2.4L WITH A/C
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - GENERATOR PULLEY
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
5 -CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - A/C COMPRESSOR PULLEY
8 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
Fig. 4 BELT ROUTING 2.4L WITHOUT A/C
1 - IDLER PULLEY
2 - GENERATOR PULLEY
3 - IDLER PULLEY
4 - POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY
5 -CRANKSHAFT PULLEY
6 - TENSIONER
7 - NON A/C IDLER PULLEY
8 - ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
KJACCESSORY DRIVE7s-17
DRIVE BELTS -2.4L (Continued)

Propylene-glycol/ethylene-glycol Mixtures can
cause the destabilization of various corrosion inhibi-
tors, causing damage to the various cooling system
components. Also, once ethylene-glycol and propy-
lene-glycol based coolants are mixed in the vehicle,
conventional methods of determining freeze point will
not be accurate. Both the refractive index and spe-
cific gravity differ between ethylene glycol and propy-
lene glycol.
OPERATION
Coolant flows through the engine block absorbing
the heat from the engine, then flows to the radiator
where the cooling fins in the radiator transfers the
heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. During cold
weather the ethylene-glycol coolant prevents water
present in the cooling system from freezing within
temperatures indicated by mixture ratio of coolant to
water.
COOLANT RECOVERY PRESS
CONTAINER
DESCRIPTION
This system works along with the radiator pres-
sure cap. This is done by using thermal expansion
and contraction of the coolant to keep the coolant
free of trapped air. It provides:
²A volume for coolant expansion and contraction.
²A convenient and safe method for checking/ad-
justing coolant level at atmospheric pressure. This is
done without removing the radiator pressure cap.
²Some reserve coolant to the radiator to cover
minor leaks and evaporation or boiling losses.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is formed in the
cooling system of both the radiator and engine. Cool-
ant will then be drawn from the coolant tank and
returned to a proper level in the radiator.
The coolant reservoir/overflow system has a radia-
tor mounted pressurized cap, an overflow tube, and a
plastic coolant reservoir/overflow tank, mounted to
the right side of the cowl. It is mounted to the cowl
with two nuts on top, and a slide bracket on the bot-
tom.
OPERATION
The pressure chamber keeps the coolant free of
trapped air, provides a volume for expansion and con-
traction, and provides a convenient and safe method
for checking and adjusting coolant level at atmo-
spheric pressure. It also provides some reserve cool-
ant to cover minor leaks, evaporation or boiling
losses. The overflow chamber allows coolant recovery
in case of an overheat.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The block heater is operated by ordinary house
current (110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and con-
nector located in the engine compartment. The
heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a core
hole plug) in the engine block, with the heating ele-
ment immersed in coolant.
CAUTION: The power cord must be secured in its
retainer clips, and not positioned so it could con-
tact linkages or exhaust manifolds and become
damaged.
OPERATION
The block heater element is submerged in the cool-
ing system's coolant. When electrical power (110 volt
A.C.) is applied to the element, it creates heat. This
heat is transferred to the engine coolant. This pro-
vides easier engine starting and faster warm-up
when vehicle is operated in areas having extremely
low temperatures.
REMOVAL - 2.4L
(1) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(3) Detach power cord plug from heater.
(4) Loosen screw in center of heater. Remove
heater assembly.
INSTALLATION - 2.4L
(1) Thoroughly clean core hole and heater seat.
(2) Insert heater assembly (Fig. 1) with element
loop positionedupward.
(3) With heater seated, tighten center screw
securely to assure a positive seal.
CAUTION: To prevent damage, the power cord must
be secured in it's retaining clips, and not positioned
so it could contact linkages or exhaust manifold.
(4) Connect power cord to heater.
(5) Lower vehicle.
(6) Fill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
7s - 20 ENGINEKJ
COOLANT (Continued)

(8) Disconnect the power steering cooler line from
cooler.
(9) Disconnect the radiator upper and lower hoses.
(10) Disconnect the overflow hose from radiator.
(11) The lower part of radiator is equipped with
two alignment dowel pins (Fig. 8). They are located
on the bottom of radiator tank and fit into rubber
grommets. These rubber grommets are pressed into
the radiator lower crossmember.
WARNING: THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM (IF
EQUIPPED) IS UNDER A CONSTANT PRESSURE
EVEN WITH THE ENGINE OFF. REFER TO REFRIG-
ERANT WARNINGS IN, HEATING AND AIR CONDI-
TIONING BEFORE HANDLING ANY AIR
CONDITIONING COMPONENT.
NOTE: The radiator and radiator cooling fan can be
removed as an assembly. It is not necessary to
remove the cooling fan before removing or install-
ing the radiator.
(12) Gently lift up and remove radiator from vehi-
cle. Be careful not to scrape the radiator fins against
any other component. Also be careful not to disturb
the air conditioning condenser (if equipped).CLEANING
Clean radiator fins With the engine cold, apply cold
water and compressed air to the back (engine side) of
the radiator to flush the radiator and/or A/C con-
denser of debris.
INSPECTION
The radiator cooling fins should be checked for
damage or deterioration. Inspect cooling fins to make
sure they are not bent or crushed, these areas result
in reduced heat exchange causing the cooling system
to operate at higher temperatures. Inspect the plastic
end tanks for cracks, damage or leaks.
Inspect the radiator neck for damage or distortion.
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Before installing the radiator or A/C con-
denser, be sure the radiator-to-body and radiator-to-
A/C condenser rubber air seals are properly
fastened to their original positions. These are used
at the top, bottom and sides of the radiator and A/C
condenser. To prevent overheating, these seals
must be installed to their original positions.
(1) Gently lower the radiator and fan shroud into
the vehicle. Guide the two radiator alignment dowels
into the rubber grommets located in lower radiator
crossmember.
(2) Connect the radiator upper and lower hoses
and hose clamps to radiator.
CAUTION: The tangs on the hose clamps must be
positioned straight down.
(3) Install coolant reserve/overflow tank hose at
radiator.
(4) Connect both transmission cooler lines at the
radiator.
(5) Install both radiator mounting bolts.
(6) Reconnect the electric cooling fan.
(7) Install the grill (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(8) Reinstall the cooling fan to the engine.
(9) Rotate the fan blades (by hand) and check for
interference at fan shroud.
(10) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(11) Connect battery cable at battery.
(12) Start and warm engine. Check for leaks.
Fig. 8 Radiator Alignment Dowels - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ALIGNMENT DOWEL
3 - RADIATOR LOWER ISOLATOR
4 - RADIATOR LOWER CROSSMEMBER
7s - 24 ENGINEKJ
RADIATOR (Continued)

RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP
DESCRIPTION
The cooling system cap is located on the coolant
pressure bottle. The cap construction includes; stain-
less steel swivel top, rubber seals and retainer, main
spring, and a spring loaded valve (Fig. 9).
OPERATION
The pressure cap allows the cooling system to oper-
ate at higher than atmospheric pressure which raises
the coolant boiling point, thus allowing increased
radiator cooling capacity. The pressure cap releases
pressure at some point within a range of 110 kPa  
14 kPa (16 psi   2 psi).
A spring-loaded vent valve in the center of the cap
allows the system to pressurize and depressurize
without creating a vacuum. If the valve is stuck
open, coolant will escape to the overflow hose. There
is also a gasket in the cap to seal to the top of the
filler neck.
CAUTION: Use only the pressure cap specified for
this vehicle. Use of other pressure caps can lead to
coolant loss and overheating.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - RADIATOR
PRESSURE CAP
Remove cap from radiator. Be sure that sealing
surfaces are clean. Moisten rubber gasket with water
and install the cap on pressure tester (tool 7700 or
an equivalent) (Fig. 10).Operate the tester pump and observe the gauge
pointer at its highest point. The cap release pressure
should be 124 to 145 kPa (18 to 21 psi). The cap is
satisfactory when the pressure holds steady. It is also
good if it holds pressure within the 124 to 145 kPa
(18 to 21 psi) range for 30 seconds or more. If the
pointer drops quickly, replace the cap.
CAUTION: Radiator pressure testing tools are very
sensitive to small air leaks, which will not cause
cooling system problems. A pressure cap that does
not have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to tool. Turn tool upside
down and recheck pressure cap to confirm that cap
needs replacement.
CLEANING
Clean the radiator pressure cap using a mild soap
and water only.
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the pressure valve gasket on the
cap. Replace cap if the gasket is swollen, torn or
worn. Inspect the area around radiator filler neck for
white deposits that indicate a leaking cap.
Fig. 9 PRESSURE CAP
1 - MAIN SPRING
2 - GASKET RETAINER
3 - STAINLESS STEEL SWIVEL TOP
4 - RUBBER SEALS
5 - SPRING LOADED VALVE
6 - COOLANT PRESSURE BOTTLE
7 - FILLER NECK
8 - OVERFLOW NIPPLEFig. 10 Pressure Testing Radiator Pressure Cap -
Typical
1 - PRESSURE CAP
2 - TYPICAL COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TESTER
KJENGINE7s-25

(5) Remove the two fan shroud mounting bolts con-
necting the fan shroud to the radiator (Fig. 13).
(6) Remove the shroud and fan from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: For 3.7L Heavy Duty/Max Cool/Trailer Tow
cooling package, the viscous fan cannot be
installed seperate from the shroud. Both fan and
shroud must be installed together.
(1) Gently lay viscous fan into shroud.
(2) Install fan shroud assembly into the vehicle.
Tighten fan shroud to radiator bolts to (5.5 N´m (50
in. lbs.).
(3) Using special tool 6958 spanner wrench and
8346 adapters, install the viscous fan on the water
pump.
(4) Connect fan motor wire connector to harness
connector, and attach connector to shroud.
(5) Connect battery negative cable.
(6) Start engine and check fan operation.
WATER PUMP - 2.4L
DESCRIPTION
The water pump has a cast aluminum body and
housing with a stamped steel impeller. The water
pump bolts directly to the block (Fig. 14). The cylin-
der block to water pump seal is provided by a rubber
O-ring. The water pump is driven by the engine tim-
ing belt.
OPERATION
The water pump is the heart of the cooling system.
The coolant is pumped through the engine block, cyl-
inder head, heater core, and radiator.
REMOVAL - 2.4L ENGINE
(1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Raise vehicle on a hoist.
(3) Remove the accessory drive belts (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the belt tensioner.
(5) Drain the cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOL-
ING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Remove the generator.
(7) Remove the power steering pump.
(8) Remove the A/C compressor.
Fig. 13 Radiator Cooling Fan - Typical
1 - RADIATOR
2 - ELECTRIC COOLING FAN CONNECTOR
3 - FAN SHROUD
4 - ELECTRIC COOLING FAN
Fig. 14 Water Pump
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - WATER PUMP
KJENGINE7s-27
RADIATOR FAN - ELECTRIC (Continued)

(9) Remove the accessory drive bracket.
(10) Remove the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- REMOVAL).
(11) Remove timing belt idler pulley.
(12) Hold camshaft sprocket with Special tool
C-4687 and adaptor C-4687-1 while removing bolt.
Remove both cam sprockets.
(13) Remove the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9
- ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COV-
ER(S) - REMOVAL).
(14) Remove water pump to engine attaching
screws (Fig. 15).
INSPECTION
Replace water pump body assembly if it has any of
these defects:
(1) Cracks or damage on the body.
(2) Coolant leaks from the shaft seal, evident by
wet coolant traces on the pump body.
(3) Loose or rough turning bearing.
(4) Impeller rubs either the pump body or the
engine block.
(5) Impeller loose or damaged.
(6) Sprocket or sprocket flange loose or damaged.
INSTALLATION - 2.4L ENGINE
(1) Install new O-ring gasket in water pump body
O-ring locating groove (Fig. 16).
CAUTION: Make sure O-ring is properly seated in
water pump groove before tightening screws. An
improperly located O-ring may be damaged and
cause a coolant leak.
(2) Assemble pump body to block and tighten
screws to 12 N´m (105 in. lbs.). Pressurize cooling
system to 103.4 Kpa (15 psi) with pressure tester and
check water pump shaft seal and O-ring for leaks.
(3) Rotate pump by hand to check for freedom of
movement.
(4) Install the timing belt rear cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT COVER(S)
- INSTALLATION).
(5) Install camshaft sprockets and target ring.
Torque bolts to 101 N´m (75 ft. lbs.) while holding
camshaft sprocket with Special tool C-4687 and
adaptor C-4687-1.
(6) Install timing belt idler pulley and torque
mounting bolt to 61 N´m (45 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install the timing belt (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT AND SPROCKET(S)
- INSTALLATION).
Fig. 15 Water Pump - 2.4L
1 - CYLINDER BLOCK
2 - WATER PUMP
Fig. 16 Water Pump Body
1 - IMPELLER
2 - WATER PUMP BODY
3 - O-RING LOCATING GROOVE
7s - 28 ENGINEKJ
WATER PUMP - 2.4L (Continued)

(3) There should be continuity. The ohmmeter
should register only a fraction of an ohm resistance.
High or infinite resistance indicates a damaged or
open antenna conductor. If OK, go to Test 3. If not
OK, isolate and test each of the individual antenna
conductor components. Replace only the faulty
antenna conductor component.
TEST 3
Test 3 checks the condition of the vehicle body
ground connection. To begin this test, proceed as fol-
lows:
(1) This test must be performed with the battery
positive cable disconnected from the battery. Discon-
nect and isolate both battery cables, negative cable
first.
(2) Reconnect the battery negative cable.
(3) Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean
ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other
test lead to the battery negative terminal post. Check
the ohmmeter reading for continuity.
(4) There should be continuity. The ohmmeter
should register less than one ohm resistance. High or
infinite resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or
damaged connection between the battery negative
terminal and the vehicle body. If OK, go to Test 4. If
not OK, check the battery negative cable connection
to the vehicle body and the radio noise suppression
ground strap connections to the engine and the vehi-
cle body for being loose or corroded. Clean or tighten
these connections as required.
TEST 4
Test 4 checks the condition of the connection
between the antenna coaxial cable shield and the
vehicle body ground as follows:
(1) Disconnect and isolate the antenna coaxial
cable connector behind the right side kick panel.
(2) Touch one ohmmeter test lead to a good clean
ground point on the vehicle fender. Touch the other
test lead to the outer crimp on the antenna coaxial
cable connector. Check the ohmmeter reading for con-
tinuity.
(3) There should be continuity. The ohmmeter
should register less than one ohm resistance. High or
infinite resistance indicates a loose, corroded, or
damaged connection between the antenna body and
the vehicle body or between the antenna body and
the antenna coaxial cable shield. If not OK, clean the
antenna body to fender mating surfaces and tighten
the antenna cap nut to specifications.
(4) Check the resistance again with an ohmmeter.
If the resistance is still more then one ohm, replace
the faulty antenna body and cable.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the antenna mast.
(3) Remove cover (Fig. 3).
(4) Remove mounting nut.
(5) Remove bezel adapter.
(6) Remove right kick panel trim.
(7) Disconnect antenna body and cable from the
instrument panel cable. Attach a wire or string
(approximately 2 feet in length) to the cable to aid in
installation of the new cable.
(8) Remove the upper fender mounting bolts.
Loosen the two fender mounting bolts located near
the upper door hinge (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/FRONT FENDER - REMOVAL).
(9) Carefully pull fender out to access the antenna
body and cable. Pull cable up through the opening
with wire attached.
INSTALLATION
(1) Attached wire to new cable. Pull fender out and
insert cable into opening.
(2) Pull cable through hole in kick panel area
using the attached wire.
(3) Connect antenna body cable to the instrument
panel cable.
(4) Install right kick panel trim.
(5) Install bezel adapter.
(6) Install mounting nut. Tighten to 12 N´m (105
in. lbs.).
(7) Install cover.
Fig. 3 ANTENNA BODY AND CABLE
1 - ANTENNA MAST
2 - ANTENNA COVER
3 - ANTENNA BASE MOUNTING NUT
4 - ANTENNA BEZEL ADAPTER
5 - ANTENNA BODY AND CABLE
8A - 6 AUDIOKJ
ANTENNA BODY & CABLE (Continued)