
SPECIAL TOOLS
POWER STEERING PUMP
FLUID COOLER
DESCRIPTION
The power steering fluid cooler is located at the
front of the vehicle. It is mounted to the radiator
lower support just forward of the air-conditioning
condenser and just rearward of the front fascia. The
cooler is positioned so it is in the air flow through the
front fascia of the vehicle (Fig. 5)
OPERATION
The purpose of the power steering fluid cooler is to
keep the temperature of the power steering system
fluid from rising to a level that would affect the per-
formance of the power steering system.
The cooler used on this vehicle is referred to as a
fluid-to-air type cooler. This means that the air flow
across the fin/tubes of the cooler is used to extract
the heat from the cooler which it has absorbed from
the power steering fluid flowing through it. The
cooler is placed in series with the power steering
fluid return line, between the steering gear and the
power steering fluid reservoir. This lowers the tem-
perature of the power steering fluid prior to it enter-
ing the power steering fluid reservoir where it is
resupplied to the power steering pump.
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the return line at the gear.
(2) Remove the return line at the reservoir.
(3) Remove the grille (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTE-
RIOR/GRILLE - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the two cooler mounting bolts. (Fig. 5)
(5) Remove the cooler from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the cooler to the vehicle.
(2) Install the two cooler mounting bolts. (Fig. 5).
(3) Install the grille (Refer to 23 - BODY/EXTERI-
OR/GRILLE - INSTALLATION).
(4) Install the return line at the reservoir.
(5) Install the return line at the gear.
(6) Refill the power steering fluid and check for
leaks (Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - STANDARD
PROCEDURE).
Analyzer Set, Power Steering Flow/Pressure 6815
Adapters, Power Steering Flow/Pressure Tester
6893
Puller C-4333
Installer, Power Steering Pulley C-4063B
Fig. 5 FLUID COOLER
1 - FLUID COOLER
2 - MOUNTING BOLTS
19 - 20 PUMPKJ
PUMP (Continued)

Initial inflation of the tire forces the bead over
these raised sections. In case of rapid loss of air pres-
sure, the raised sections help hold the tire on the
wheel.
The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
applications. All aluminum and some steel wheels
have wheel stud nuts with an enlarged nose. This
enlarged nose is necessary to ensure proper retention
of the wheels. Do not use replacement studs or nuts
with a different design or lesser quality.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WHEELS
Inspect wheels for:
²Excessive run out
²Dents or cracks
²Damaged wheel lug nut holes
²Air Leaks from any area or surface of the rim
NOTE: Do not attempt to repair a wheel by hammer-
ing, heating or welding.
If a wheel is damaged an original equipment
replacement wheel should be used. When obtaining
replacement wheels, they should be equivalent in
load carrying capacity. The diameter, width, offset,
pilot hole and bolt circle of the wheel should be the
same as the original wheel.
WARNING: FAILURE TO USE EQUIVALENT
REPLACEMENT WHEELS MAY ADVERSELY
AFFECT THE SAFETY AND HANDLING OF THE
VEHICLE. USED WHEELS ARE NOT RECOM-
MENDED. THE SERVICE HISTORY OF THE WHEEL
MAY HAVE INCLUDED SEVERE TREATMENT OR
VERY HIGH MILEAGE. THE RIM COULD FAIL WITH-
OUT WARNING.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL
REPLACEMENT
Wheels must be replaced if they have:
²Excessive runout
²Bent or dented
²Leak air through welds
²Have damaged bolt holes
Wheel repairs employing hammering, heating, or
welding are not allowed.
Original equipment wheels are available through
your dealer. Replacement wheels from any other
source should be equivalent in:
²Load carrying capacity
²Diameter
²Width
²Offset²Mounting configuration
Failure to use equivalent replacement wheels may
affect the safety and handling of your vehicle.
Replacement withusedwheels is not recommended.
Their service history may have included severe treat-
ment.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - WHEEL MOUNTING
The wheel studs and nuts are designed for specific
applications. They must be replaced with equivalent
parts. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality
or a substitute design. All aluminum and some steel
wheels have wheel stud nuts which feature an
enlarged nose. This enlarged nose is necessary to
ensure proper retention of the aluminum wheels.
NOTE: Do not use chrome plated lug nuts with
chrome plated wheels.
Before installing the wheel, be sure to remove any
build up of corrosion on the wheel mounting surfaces.
Ensure wheels are installed with good metal-to-metal
contact. Improper installation could cause loosening
of wheel nuts. This could affect the safety and han-
dling of your vehicle.
To install the wheel, first position it properly on
the mounting surface. All wheel nuts should then be
tightened just snug. Gradually tighten them in
sequence to the proper torque specification (Fig. 18).
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts.
Fig. 18 Lug Nut Tightening Pattern
22 - 10 TIRES/WHEELSKJ
WHEELS (Continued)

BODY
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY
WARNING
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS . . . 1
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS . 2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE . . . 3
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY
LUBRICATION.........................3
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAT STAKING . . 3
SPECIFICATIONS........................4
SPECIAL TOOLS
BODY...............................5BODY STRUCTURE.......................6
HOOD................................119
DOOR - FRONT........................121
DOORS - REAR........................128
SWING GATE..........................135
EXTERIOR............................140
INSTRUMENT PANEL....................147
INTERIOR.............................156
PAINT................................162
SEATS...............................164
STATIONARY GLASS....................172
SUNROOF.............................175
WEATHERSTRIP/SEALS..................185
BODY
WARNING
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS
WARNING: EYE PROTECTION SHOULD BE USED
WHEN SERVICING GLASS COMPONENTS. PER-
SONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
²USE A OSHA APPROVED BREATHING FILTER
WHEN SPRAYING PAINT OR SOLVENTS IN A CON-
FINED AREA. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
²AVOID PROLONGED SKIN CONTACT WITH
PETROLEUM OR ALCOHOL±BASED CLEANING
SOLVENTS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
²DO NOT STAND UNDER A HOISTED VEHICLE
THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON SAFETY
STANDS. PERSONAL INJURY CAN RESULT.
CAUTION: When holes must be drilled or punched
in an inner body panel, verify depth of space to the
outer body panel, electrical wiring, or other compo-
nents. Damage to vehicle can result.
²Do not weld exterior panels unless combustible
material on the interior of vehicle is removed from
the repair area. Fire or hazardous conditions, can
result.
²Always have a fire extinguisher ready for use
when welding.
²Disconnect the negative (-) cable clamp from
the battery when servicing electrical components
that are live when the ignition is OFF. Damage to
electrical system can result.²Do not use abrasive chemicals or compounds
on painted surfaces. Damage to finish can result.
²Do not use harsh alkaline based cleaning sol-
vents on painted or upholstered surfaces. Damage
to finish or color can result.
²Do not hammer or pound on plastic trim panel
when servicing interior trim. Plastic panels can
break.
DaimlerChrysler Corporation uses many different
types of push-in fasteners to secure the interior and
exterior trim to the body. Most of these fasteners can
be reused to assemble the trim during various repair
procedures. At times, a push-in fastener cannot be
removed without damaging the fastener or the com-
ponent it is holding. If it is not possible to remove a
fastener without damaging a component or body, cut
or break the fastener and use a new one when
installing the component. Never pry or pound on a
plastic or pressed-board trim component. Using a
suitable fork-type prying device, pry the fastener
from the retaining hole behind the component being
removed. When installing, verify fastener alignment
with the retaining hole by hand. Push directly on or
over the fastener until it seats. Apply a low-force pull
to the panel to verify that it is secure.
When it is necessary to remove components to ser-
vice another, it should not be necessary to apply
excessive force or bend a component to remove it.
Before damaging a trim component, verify hidden
fasteners or captured edges holding the component in
place.
KJBODY 23 - 1

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WATER LEAKS
Water leaks can be caused by poor sealing,
improper body component alignment, body seam
porosity, missing plugs, or blocked drain holes. Cen-
trifugal and gravitational force can cause water to
drip from a location away from the actual leak point,
making leak detection difficult. All body sealing
points should be water tight in normal wet-driving
conditions. Water flowing downward from the front of
the vehicle should not enter the passenger or luggage
compartment. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal water tight under all conditions. At
times, side glass or door seals will allow water to
enter the passenger compartment during high pres-
sure washing or hard driving rain (severe) condi-
tions. Overcompensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop a water leak that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After completing
a repair, water test vehicle to verify leak has stopped
before returning vehicle to use.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE WATER LEAK TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place, body
drains are clear, and body components are properly
aligned and sealed. If component alignment or seal-
ing is necessary, refer to the appropriate section of
this group for proper procedures.
WATER LEAK TESTS
WARNING: DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SHOP LIGHTS
OR TOOLS IN WATER TEST AREA. PERSONAL
INJURY CAN RESULT.
When the conditions causing a water leak have
been determined, simulate the conditions as closely
as possible.
²If a leak occurs with the vehicle parked in a
steady light rain, flood the leak area with an open-
ended garden hose.
²If a leak occurs while driving at highway speeds
in a steady rain, test the leak area with a reasonable
velocity stream or fan spray of water. Direct the
spray in a direction comparable to actual conditions.
²If a leak occurs when the vehicle is parked on an
incline, hoist the end or side of the vehicle to simu-
late this condition. This method can be used when
the leak occurs when the vehicle accelerates, stops or
turns. If the leak occurs on acceleration, hoist the
front of the vehicle. If the leak occurs when braking,
hoist the back of the vehicle. If the leak occurs on left
turns, hoist the left side of the vehicle. If the leak
occurs on right turns, hoist the right side of the vehi-cle. For hoisting recommendations refer to Group 0,
Lubrication and Maintenance, General Information
section.
WATER LEAK DETECTION
To detect a water leak point-of-entry, do a water
test and watch for water tracks or droplets forming
on the inside of the vehicle. If necessary, remove inte-
rior trim covers or panels to gain visual access to the
leak area. If the hose cannot be positioned without
being held, have someone help do the water test.
Some water leaks must be tested for a considerable
length of time to become apparent. When a leak
appears, find the highest point of the water track or
drop. The highest point usually will show the point of
entry. After leak point has been found, repair the
leak and water test to verify that the leak has
stopped.
Locating the entry point of water that is leaking
into a cavity between panels can be difficult. The
trapped water may splash or run from the cavity,
often at a distance from the entry point. Most water
leaks of this type become apparent after accelerating,
stopping, turning, or when on an incline.
MIRROR INSPECTION METHOD
When a leak point area is visually obstructed, use
a suitable mirror to gain visual access. A mirror can
also be used to deflect light to a limited-access area
to assist in locating a leak point.
BRIGHT LIGHT LEAK TEST METHOD
Some water leaks in the luggage compartment can
be detected without water testing. Position the vehi-
cle in a brightly lit area. From inside the darkened
luggage compartment inspect around seals and body
seams. If necessary, have a helper direct a drop light
over the suspected leak areas around the luggage
compartment. If light is visible through a normally
sealed location, water could enter through the open-
ing.
PRESSURIZED LEAK TEST METHOD
When a water leak into the passenger compart-
ment cannot be detected by water testing, pressurize
the passenger compartment and soap test exterior of
the vehicle. To pressurize the passenger compart-
ment, close all doors and windows, start engine, and
set heater control to high blower in HEAT position. If
engine can not be started, connect a charger to the
battery to ensure adequate voltage to the blower.
With interior pressurized, apply dish detergent solu-
tion to suspected leak area on the exterior of the
vehicle. Apply detergent solution with spray device or
soft bristle brush. If soap bubbles occur at a body
seam, joint, seal or gasket, the leak entry point could
be at that location.
23 - 2 BODYKJ
BODY (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - WIND NOISE
Wind noise is the result of most air leaks. Air leaks
can be caused by poor sealing, improper body compo-
nent alignment, body seam porosity, or missing plugs
in the engine compartment or door hinge pillar areas.
All body sealing points should be airtight in normal
driving conditions. Moving sealing surfaces will not
always seal airtight under all conditions. At times,
side glass or door seals will allow wind noise to be
noticed in the passenger compartment during high
cross winds. Over compensating on door or glass
adjustments to stop wind noise that occurs under
severe conditions can cause premature seal wear and
excessive closing or latching effort. After a repair pro-
cedure has been performed, test vehicle to verify
noise has stopped before returning vehicle to use.
Wind noise can also be caused by improperly fitted
exterior moldings or body ornamentation. Loose
moldings can flutter, creating a buzzing or chattering
noise. An open cavity or protruding edge can create a
whistling or howling noise. Inspect the exterior of the
vehicle to verify that these conditions do not exist.
VISUAL INSPECTION BEFORE TESTS
Verify that floor and body plugs are in place and
body components are aligned and sealed. If compo-
nent alignment or sealing is necessary, refer to the
appropriate section of this group for proper proce-
dures.
ROAD TESTING WIND NOISE
(1) Drive the vehicle to verify the general location
of the wind noise.
(2) Apply 50 mm (2 in.) masking tape in 150 mm
(6 in.) lengths along weatherstrips, weld seams or
moldings. After each length is applied, drive the vehi-
cle. If noise goes away after a piece of tape is applied,
remove tape, locate, and repair defect.
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF WIND NOISE
²Moldings standing away from body surface can
catch wind and whistle.
²Gaps in sealed areas behind overhanging body
flanges can cause wind-rushing sounds.
²Misaligned movable components.
²Missing or improperly installed plugs in pillars.
²Weld burn through holes.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - BODY LUBRICATION
All mechanisms and linkages should be lubricated
when necessary. This will maintain ease of operation
and provide protection against rust and excessivewear. The weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to
prolong their life as well as to improve door sealing.
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be inspected and cleaned.
Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms should
then be lubricated.
(1) When necessary, lubricate the operating mech-
anisms with the specified lubricants.
(2) Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it
on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil pas-
senger's clothing.
(3) Before applying lubricant, the component
should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess
lubricant should be removed.
(4) The hood latch, latch release mechanism, latch
striker, and safety latch should be lubricated period-
ically.
(5) The door lock cylinders should be lubricated
twice each year (preferably autumn and spring).
²Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubricant
directly into the lock cylinder.
²Apply a small amount to the key and insert it
into the lock cylinder.
²Rotate it to the locked position and then back to
the unlocked position several times.
²Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it with
a clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - HEAT STAKING
(1) Remove trim panel.
(2) Bend or move the trim panel components at
the heat staked joints. Observe the heat staked loca-
tions and/or component seams for looseness.
(3) Heat stake the components.
(a) If the heat staked or component seam loca-
tion is loose, hold the two components tightly
together and using a soldering gun with a flat tip,
melt the material securing the components
together. Do not over heat the affected area, dam-
age to the exterior of the trim panel may occur.
(b) If the heat staked material is broken or miss-
ing, use a hot glue gun to apply new material to
the area to be repaired. The panels that are being
heat staked must be held together while the apply-
ing the glue. Once the new material is in place, it
may be necessary to use a soldering gun to melt
the newly applied material. Do not over heat the
affected area, damage to the exterior of the trim
panel may occur.
(4) Allow the repaired area to cool and verify the
repair.
(5) Install trim panel.
KJBODY 23 - 3
BODY (Continued)

EXTERIOR
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL............................140
INSTALLATION........................140
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL............................140
INSTALLATION........................140
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL............................140
INSTALLATION........................141
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL............................141
INSTALLATION........................141
FUEL FILL DOOR/HOUSING
REMOVAL............................141
INSTALLATION........................141
GRILLE
REMOVAL............................142
INSTALLATION........................142
GRILLE OPENING REINFORCEMENT
REMOVAL............................142
INSTALLATION........................142FRONT WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL............................143
INSTALLATION........................143
LUGGAGE RACK
REMOVAL............................144
INSTALLATION........................144
REAR WHEELHOUSE SPLASH SHIELD
REMOVAL............................144
INSTALLATION........................144
SIDE VIEW MIRROR
REMOVAL............................145
INSTALLATION........................145
FRONT WHEEL OPENING FLARE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL............................145
INSTALLATION........................145
REAR WHEEL OPENING FLARE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL............................145
INSTALLATION........................145
RADIATOR CROSSMEMBER
REMOVAL............................146
INSTALLATION........................146
BODY SIDE MOLDINGS
REMOVAL
(1) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent,
remove and discard the molding from the outside of
the door.
INSTALLATION
(1) Thoroughly clean all residue from the body side
molding attachment area of the door.
(2) Wipe area clean with a 50% solution of water
and alcohol and wipe dry.
(3) Apply new body side molding using the locators
in the door and apply pressure of approximately 40
p.s.i. over the entire surface of the molding.
COWL GRILLE
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the hood seal.
(2) Remove the wiper arms. (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS -
REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the four plastic retainers and remove
the cowl grill.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the cowl grill and engage the nine
clips to the bottom of the windshield.
(2) Install the five plastic retainers.
(3) Install the wiper arms. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/WIPERS/WASHERS/WIPER ARMS - INSTAL-
LATION)
(4) Install the hood seal.
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES
REMOVAL
NOTE: Exterior nameplates are attached to body
panels with adhesive tape.
(1) Apply a length of masking tape on the body,
parallel to the top edge of the nameplate to use as a
guide, if necessary.
(2) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun. Do not exceed 52ÉC
(120ÉF) when heating emblem.
(3) Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, behind
the emblem to separate the adhesive backing from
the body.
23 - 140 EXTERIORKJ

(4) Clean adhesive residue from body with MOPAR
Super Clean solvent or equivalent.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove protective cover from adhesive tape on
back of emblem.
(2) Position emblem properly on body.
(3) Press emblem firmly to body with palm of
hand.
(4) If temperature is below 21ÉC (70ÉF) warm
emblem with a heat lamp or gun to assure adhesion.
Do not exceed 52ÉC (120ÉF) when heating emblem.
FRONT FENDER
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the wheel opening splash shield. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD - REMOVAL)
(2) Remove the fascia assembly. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT FASCIA -
REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the fender support bracket bolts. (Fig.
1)
(4) Remove the bolts and remove the fender. (Fig.
2)
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the fender assembly and install the
bolts
(2) Install the fender support bracket and install
the bolts.(3) Align the fender with adjacent body parts and
tighten the bolts to 12 N´m (9 ft. lbs.). (Refer to 23 -
BODY/BODY STRUCTURE/GAP AND FLUSH -
SPECIFICATIONS)
(4) Install the fascia assembly. (Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/BUMPERS/FRONT FASCIA -
INSTALLATION)
(5) Install the wheelhouse splash shield. (Refer to
23 - BODY/EXTERIOR/FRONT WHEELHOUSE
SPLASH SHIELD - INSTALLATION)
FUEL FILL DOOR/HOUSING
REMOVAL
(1) Remove the fuel cap.
(2) Remove the three screws connecting the fuel
door/housing to the filler neck.
(3) Reach in through the opening and depress the
tabs at the upper and bottom right of the door/hous-
ing. (Fig. 3)
(4) Remove the fuel door/housing from the vehicle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Position the fuel filler door/housing into the
vehicle and fully seat the tabs.
Fig. 1 FENDER SUPPORT BRACKET
1 - FENDER BOLTS (2)
2 - FENDER
3 - FENDER SUPPORT BRACKET
4 - SUPPORT BRACKET BOLTS (2)
5 - U-NUTS (2)
Fig. 2 FRONT FENDER
1 - HYDRAFORM
2 - U-NUTS
3 - BOLTS (3)
4 - FENDER
5 - BOLTS (2)
6 - BOLTS (2)
KJEXTERIOR 23 - 141
EXTERIOR NAME PLATES (Continued)

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER........................1
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
REQUIREMENTS.......................1
DESCRIPTION - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM
SERVICE PORT........................2
OPERATION
OPERATION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER........................2
OPERATION - REFRIGERANT SYSTEM
SERVICE PORT........................2
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - A/C
PERFORMANCE.......................2DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - HEATER
PERFORMANCE.......................6
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VACUUM
SYSTEM.............................6
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DIODE
REPLACEMENT.......................9
SPECIFICATIONS
A/C APPLICATION TABLE................9
SPECIFICATIONS.....................10
CONTROLS.............................11
DISTRIBUTION..........................29
PLUMBING.............................38
HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING
DESCRIPTION
DESCRIPTION - HEATER AND AIR
CONDITIONER
All vehicles are equipped with a common HVAC
housing assembly (Fig. 1). The system combines air
conditioning, heating, and ventilating capabilities in
a single unit housing mounted under the instrument
panel. On heater-only systems, the evaporator coil is
omitted from the housing.
DESCRIPTION - COOLING SYSTEM
REQUIREMENTS
To maintain the performance level of the HVAC
system, the engine cooling system must be properly
maintained. The use of a bug screen is not recom-
mended. Any obstructions in front of the radiator or
condenser will reduce the performance of the air con-
ditioning and engine cooling systems.
The engine cooling system includes the heater core
and the heater hoses. Refer to Engine Cooling for
more information before the opening of, or attempt-
ing any service to the engine cooling system.
Fig. 1 Blend Door
1 - DEFROSTER DOOR
2- HEATER CORE
3- BLEND DOORS
4- BLOWER MOTOR HOUSING
5- EVAPORATOR (A/C ONLY)
6- LOWER HVAC CASE ASSEMBLY
KJHEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 24 - 1