2002 JEEP LIBERTY hub bearing

(8) Place new clamps onto new boot and slide boot
onto the shaft to it's original position.
(9) Apply the rest of lubricant to the C/V joint and
boot.
(10) Install the joint onto the shaft. Push the joint
onto the shaft until the snap ring seats in the groove
(Fig. 15). Pull on the joint to verify the span ring has
engaged.
(11) Position the boot on the joint in it's original
position. Ensure that the boot is not twisted and
remove any excess air.
(12) Secure both boot clamps (Fig. 16) with Clamp
Installer C-4975A. Place tool on clamp bridge and
tighten tool until the jaws of the toll are closed.
CV JOINT/BOOT-INNER
REMOVAL
(1) Clamp shaft in a vise (with soft jaws) and sup-
port C/V joint.
(2) Remove clamps with a cut-off wheel or grinder.
CAUTION: Do not damage C/V housing or half
shaft.
(3) Slide the boot down the shaft (Fig. 17).
Fig. 15 OUTER C/V JOINT
1 - SNAP RING
2 - SHAFT TAPER
3 - SNAP RING GROVE
4 - BEARING HUB
Fig. 16 BOOT CLAMP LOCATIONS
1 - C/V HOUSING
2 - CLAMP
3 - HALF SHAFT
4 - CLAMP
5 - C/V BOOT
Fig. 17 INNER C/V BOOT
1 - HOUSING
2 - BOOT
3 - HOUSING SNAP RING
KJHALF SHAFT 3 - 15
CV JOINT/BOOT-OUTER (Continued)

FRONT AXLE - 186FIA
TABLE OF CONTENTS
page page
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA
DESCRIPTION.........................19
OPERATION...........................19
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - AXLE..........20
REMOVAL.............................24
INSTALLATION.........................24
ADJUSTMENTS........................25
SPECIFICATIONS - FRONT AXLE...........33
SPECIAL TOOLS
FRONT AXLE........................34
AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL.............................37
INSTALLATION.........................37
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL.............................37
INSTALLATION.........................38
AXLE BEARINGS
REMOVAL.............................38INSTALLATION.........................38
PINION SEAL
REMOVAL.............................38
INSTALLATION.........................39
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL.............................40
DISASSEMBLY.........................41
ASSEMBLY............................41
INSTALLATION.........................42
DIFFERENTIAL CASE BEARINGS
REMOVAL.............................43
INSTALLATION.........................44
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR
REMOVAL.............................44
INSTALLATION.........................46
FRONT AXLE - 186FIA
DESCRIPTION
The 186FIA (Model 30) axle consists of an alumu-
num center section with an axle tube extending from
one side. The tube is pressed into the differential
housing. The integral type housing, hypoid gear
design has the centerline of the pinion set below the
centerline of the ring gear.
The differential case is a one-piece design. The differ-
ential pinion mate shaft is retained with a roll-pin. Dif-
ferential bearing preload and ring gear backlash is
adjusted by the use of shims (select thickness). The
shims are located between the differential bearing cups
and the axle housing. Pinion bearing preload is set and
maintained by the use of a collapsible spacer.
The power is transferred from the axle through two
constant velocity (C/V) drive shafts to the wheel hubs.
The differential cover provides a means for inspec-
tion and service without removing the axle from the
vehicle. The cover has a vent tube used to relieve
internal pressure caused by vaporization and inter-
nal expansion.
OPERATION
The axle receives power from the transfer case through
the front propeller shaft. The front propeller shaft is con-
nected to the pinion gear which rotates the differential
through the gear mesh with the ring gear bolted to thedifferential case. The engine power is transmitted to the
axle shafts through the pinion mate and side gears. The
side gears are splined to the axle shafts.
During straight-ahead driving, the differential pin-
ion gears do not rotate on the pinion mate shaft. This
occurs because input torque applied to the gears is
divided and distributed equally between the two side
gears. As a result, the pinion gears revolve with the
pinion mate shaft but do not rotate around it (Fig. 1).
Fig. 1 DIFFERENTIAL-STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING
1 - STRAIGHT AHEAD DRIVING
2 - PINION GEAR
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - PINION GEARS ROTATE WITH CASE
KJFRONT AXLE - 186FIA 3 - 19

lbs.) increments until proper rotating torque is
achieved.
NOTE: The bearing rotating torque should be con-
stant during a complete revolution of the pinion. If
the rotating torque varies, it indicates a binding
condition.
(9) The seal replacement is unacceptable if the
final pinion nut torque is less than 285 N´m (210 ft.
lbs.).
(10) Install the propeller shaft with the installa-
tion reference marks aligned.
(11) Install the brake drums.
(12) Check the differential housing lubricant level.
(13) Install wheel and tire assemblies and lower
the vehicle.
DIFFERENTIAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove fill hole plug from the differential
housing cover.
(3) Remove differential housing cover and drain
housing.
(4) Clean the housing cavity with a flushing oil,
light engine oil or lint free cloth.Do not use water,
steam, kerosene or gasoline for cleaning.(5) Remove the axle shafts.
NOTE: Side play resulting from bearing races being
loose on case hubs requires replacement of the dif-
ferential case.
(6) Mark the differential housing and bearing caps
for installation reference (Fig. 28).
(7) Remove bearing threaded adjuster locks from
each bearing cap.
(8) Loosen bearing cap bolts, them loosen the
threaded adjusters with Wrench C-4164 (Fig. 29).
Fig. 27 Pinion Rotation Torque
1 - PINION YOKE
2 - INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH
Fig. 28 Reference Mark
1 - REFERENCE MARKS
2 - REFERENCE MARKS
3 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
4 - BEARING CAP
Fig. 29 Threaded Adjuster
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - BACKING PLATE
3 - THREAD ADJUSTER WRENCH
3 - 104 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
PINION SEAL (Continued)

STANDARD PROCEDURE - DISC BRAKE
ROTOR
The disc brake rotor can be machined if scored or
worn. The lathe must machine both sides of the rotor
simultaneously with dual cutter heads. The rotor
mounting surface must be clean before placing on the
lathe. Equipment capable of machining only one side
at a time may produce a tapered rotor. A hub
mounted on-vehicle lathe is recommended. This type
of lathe trues the rotor to the vehicles hub/bearing.CAUTION: Brake rotors that do not meet minimum
thickness specifications before or after machining
must be replaced.
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support the vehicle.
(2) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(3) Remove the caliper adapter (Fig. 30). (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose will result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(4) Remove the disc brake rotor.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the disc brake rotor to the hub.
(2) Install the caliper mounting adapter. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(3) Install the tire and wheel assembly. (Refer to
22 - TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
Fig. 28 Checking Rotor Runout And Thickness
Variation
1 - DIAL INDICATOR
Fig. 29 Measuring Rotor Thickness
1 - MICROMETER
2 - ROTOR
Fig. 30 DISC BRAKE ROTOR
1 - DISC BRAKE ROTOR
2 - CALIPER ADAPTER
3 - DISC BRAKE CALIPER
4 - SHOES
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 19
ROTORS (Continued)

ELECTRICAL
DESCRIPTION
Three wheel speed sensors are used. The front sen-
sors are mounted to the steering knuckles. The rear
sensor is mounted at the top of the rear axle differ-
ential carrier. Tone wheels are mounted to the out-
board ends of the front axle shafts. The gear type
tone wheel serves as the trigger mechanism for each
sensor.
OPERATION
The sensors convert wheel speed into a small digi-
tal signal. The CAB sends 12 volts to the sensors.
The sensor has an internal magneto resistance
bridge that alters the voltage and amperage of the
signal circuit. This voltage and amperage is changed
by magnetic induction when the toothed tone wheel
passes the wheel speed sensor. This digital signal is
sent to the CAB. The CAB measures the voltage and
amperage of the digital signal for each wheel.
FRONT WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the front wheel speed sensor wire
connector that is located on the inboard side of the
respective wheel house.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
(4) Remove the caliper adapter. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - REMOVAL).
CAUTION: Never allow the disc brake caliper to
hang from the brake hose. Damage to the brake
hose with result. Provide a suitable support to hang
the caliper securely.
(5) Remove the disc brake rotor. (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
REMOVAL).
(6) Remove the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt
to the hub (Fig. 1).
(7) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire from the
hub/bearing (Fig. 1).
(8) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire hold down
from the knuckle (Fig. 1).
(9) Remove the wheel speed sensor wire thru the
wheel well.
(10) Remove the wheel speed sensor from the vehi-
cle.
INSTALLATION
(1) Install the wheel speed sensor to the vehicle.
(2) Install the wheel speed sensor wire thru the
wheel well.
(3) Install the wheel speed sensor wire to the hub/
bearing.
(4) Install the wheel speed sensor wire hold down
to the knuckle.
(5) Install the wheel speed sensor mounting bolt to
the hub. Tighten the mounting bolt to 14 N´m (10
ft.lbs.).
(6) Install the disc brake rotor (Refer to 5 -
BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS -
INSTALLATION).
(7) Install the disc brake caliper adapter. (Refer to
5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/DISC
BRAKE CALIPER ADAPTER - INSTALLATION).
(8) Install the tire and wheel assembly (Refer to 22
- TIRES/WHEELS/WHEELS - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
(9) Reconnect the front wheel speed sensor wire
connector to the inboard side of the wheel house
being worked on.
Fig. 1 FRONT WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
1 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR
3 - ROTOR
4 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE HOLD DOWN
5 - 34 BRAKES - ABSKJ

WARNING
WARNING:: EXERCISE CARE WHEN SERVICING
CLUTCH COMPONENTS. FACTORY INSTALLED
CLUTCH DISCS DO NOT CONTAIN ASBESTOS
FIBERS. DUST AND DIRT ON CLUTCH PARTS MAY
CONTAIN ASBESTOS FIBERS FROM AFTERMAR-
KET COMPONENTS. BREATHING EXCESSIVE CON-
CENTRATIONS OF THESE FIBERS CAN CAUSE
SERIOUS BODILY HARM. WEAR A RESPIRATOR
DURING SERVICE AND NEVER CLEAN CLUTCH
COMPONENTS WITH COMPRESSED AIR OR WITH
A DRY BRUSH. EITHER CLEAN THE COMPONENTS
WITH A WATER DAMPENED RAGS OR USE A VAC-
UUM CLEANER SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR
REMOVING ASBESTOS FIBERS AND DUST. DO NOT
CREATE DUST BY SANDING A CLUTCH DISC.
REPLACE THE DISC IF THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS
DAMAGED OR CONTAMINATED. DISPOSE OF ALL
DUST AND DIRT CONTAINING ASBESTOS FIBERS
IN SEALED BAGS OR CONTAINERS. THIS WILL
HELP MINIMIZE EXPOSURE TO YOURSELF AND TO
OTHERS. FOLLOW ALL RECOMMENDED SAFETY
PRACTICES PRESCRIBED BY THE OCCUPATIONAL
SAFETY AND HEALTH ADMINISTRATION (OSHA)
AND THE ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY AGENCY
(EPA), FOR THE HANDLING AND DISPOSAL OF
PRODUCTS CONTAINING ASBESTOS.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - CLUTCH
Drive the vehicle at normal speeds. Shift the trans-
mission through all gear ranges and observe clutch
action. If the clutch chatters, grabs, slips or does not
release properly, remove and inspect the clutch com-
ponents. If the problem is noise or hard shifting, fur-
ther diagnosis may be needed as the transmission or
another driveline component may be at fault.
NOTE: Vehicles equipped with a Dual Mass Fly-
wheel may produce a rattle when the engine is shut
off. This noise is considered normal.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab. Inspect components for oil, hydraulic
fluid or water/road splash contamination.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Clutch
fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave cylinder
push rod seals. Heat buildup caused by slippage
between the pressure plate, disc and flywheel can
bake the oil residue onto the components. The glaze-
like residue ranges in color from amber to black.Road splash contamination is dirt/water entering
the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing cracks.
Driving through deep water puddles can force water/
road splash into the housing through such openings.
IMPROPER RELEASE OR CLUTCH ENGAGEMENT
Clutch release or engagement problems are caused
by wear or damage clutch components. A visual
inspection of the release components will usually
reveal the problem part.
Release problems can result in hard shifting and
noise. Look for leaks at the clutch cylinders and
interconnecting line and loose slave cylinder bolts.
Also worn/loose release fork, pivot stud, clutch disc,
pressure plate or release bearing.
Engagement problems can result in slip, chatter/
shudder and noisy operation. The causes may be
clutch disc contamination, wear, distortion or fly-
wheel damage. Visually inspect to determine the
actual cause of the problem.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.
Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
PRESSURE PLATE AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain
another disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
when handling the cover and disc. Impact can distort
the cover, diaphragm spring, release fingers and the
hub of the clutch disc.
Use an alignment tool when positioning the disc on
the flywheel. The tool prevents accidental misalign-
ment which could result in cover distortion and disc
damage.
A frequent cause of clutch cover distortion (and
consequent misalignment) is improper bolt tighten-
ing.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
6 - 2 CLUTCHKJ
CLUTCH (Continued)

Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor fly-
wheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel
if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can alsoweaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch
release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal or equivalent.
Tighten flywheel bolts to specified torque only. Over-
tightening can distort the flywheel hub causing
runout.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
The diagnosis charts Diagnosis Chart describe
common clutch problems, causes and correction. Con-
ditions, causes and corrective action are outlined in
the indicated columns.
DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Disc facing worn out 1. Normal wear. 1. Replace cover and disc.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips) the
clutch. Results in rapid overheating
and wear.2. Replace cover and disc.
3. Insufficient clutch cover
diaphragm spring tension.3. Replace cover and disc.
Clutch disc facing contaminated with
oil, grease, or clutch fluid.1. Leak at rear main engine seal or
transmission input shaft seal.1. Replace appropriate seal.
2. Excessive amount of grease
applied to the input shaft splines.2. Remove grease and apply the
correct amount of grease.
3. Road splash, water entering
housing.3. Replace clutch disc. Clean clutch
cover and reuse if in good condition.
4. Slave cylinder leaking. 4. Replace hydraulic clutch linkage.
Clutch is running partially
disengaged.1. Release bearing sticking or
binding and does not return to the
normal running position.1. Verify failure. Replace the release
bearing and transmission front
bearing retainer as necessary.
Flywheel below minimum thickness
specification.1. Improper flywheel machining.
Flywheel has excessive taper or
excessive material removal.1. Replace flywheel.
Clutch disc, cover and/or diaphragm
spring warped or distorted.1. Rough handling. Impact bent
cover, spring, or disc.1. Replace disc or cover as
necessary.
2. Improper bolt tightening
procedure.2. Tighten clutch cover using proper
procedure.
KJCLUTCH 6 - 3
CLUTCH (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
Facing on flywheel side of disc torn,
gouged, or worn.1. Flywheel surface scored or
nicked.2. Correct surface condition if
possible. Replace flywheel and disc
as necessary.
2. Clutch disc sticking or binding on
transmission input shaft.2. Lubricate splines with high
temperature graese.
Clutch disc facing burnt. Flywheel
and cover pressure plate surfaces
heavily glazed.1. Frequent operation under high
loads or hard acceleration
conditions.1. Correct condition of flywheel and
pressure plate surface. Replace
clutch cover and disc. Alert driver to
problem cause.
2. Driver frequently rides (slips)
clutch. Results in rapid wear and
overheating of disc and cover.2. Correct condition of flywheel and
pressure plate surface. Replace
clutch cover and disc. Alert driver to
problem cause.
Clutch disc binds on input shaft
splines.1. Clutch disc hub splines damaged
during installation.1. Clean, smooth, and lubricate hub
splines if possible. Replace disc if
necessary.
2. Input shaft splines rough,
damaged, or corroded.2. Clean, smooth, and lubricate
shaft splines if possible. Replace
input shaft if necessary.
Clutch disc rusted to flywheel and/or
pressure plate.1. Clutch not used for and extended
period of time (e.g. long term
vehicle storage).1. Sand rusted surfaces with 180
grit sanding paper. Replace clutch
cover and flywheel if necessary.
Pilot bearing seized, loose, or rollers
are worn.1. Bearing cocked during
installation.1. Install and lubricate a new
bearing.
2. Bearing defective. 2. Install and lubricate a new
bearing.
3. Bearing not lubricated. 3. Install and lubricate a new
bearing.
4. Clutch misalignment. 4. Inspect clutch and correct as
necessary. Install and lubricate a
new bearing.
Clutch will not disengage properly. 1. Low clutch fluid level. 1. Replace hydraulic linkage
assembly.
2. Clutch cover loose. 2. Follow proper bolt tightening
procedure.
3. Clutch disc bent or distorted. 3. Replace clutch disc.
4. Clutch cover diaphragm spring
bent or warped.4. Replace clutch cover.
5. Clutch disc installed backwards. 5. Remove and install clutch disc
correctly.
6. Release fork bent or fork pivot
loose or damaged.6. Replace fork or pivot as
necessary.
7. Clutch master or slave cylinder
failure.7. Replace hydraulic linkage
assembly.
6 - 4 CLUTCHKJ
CLUTCH (Continued)