2002 JEEP LIBERTY Remove rear seat

AXLE SHAFTS
REMOVAL
(1) Place the transmission in NEUTRAL and raise
and support vehicle.
(2) Remove wheel and tire assembly.
(3) Remove brake drum.
(4) Remove the housing cover and drain lubricant.
(5) Rotate differential case to access the pinion
shaft lock screw. Remove lock screw and pinion shaft
from differential case (Fig. 19).
(6) Push axle shaft inward then remove axle shaft
C-lock (Fig. 20).(7) Remove axle shaft being carefull not to damage
shaft bearing and seal.
(8) Inspect axle shaft seal for leakage or damage.
(9) Inspect axle shaft bearing contact surface for
signs of brinelling, galling and pitting.
INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate bearing bore and seal lip with gear
lubricant. Insert axle shaft through seal, bearing and
engage it into side gear splines.
NOTE: Use care to prevent shaft splines from dam-
aging axle shaft seal lip.
(2) Insert C-lock in end of axle shaft. Push axle
shaft outward to seat C-lock in side gear.
(3) Insert pinion shaft into differential case and
through thrust washers and differential pinions.
(4) Align hole in shaft with hole in the differential
case and install lock screw with Loctiteton the
threads. Tighten lock screw to 11 N´m (8 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install cover and fill with gear lubricant to the
bottom of the fill plug hole.
(6) Install brake drum.
(7) Install wheel and tire assemblies.
(8) Remove support and lower vehicle.
AXLE SHAFT SEALS
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove axle shaft.
(3) Remove axle shaft seal from the axle tube with
a small pry bar (Fig. 21).
Fig. 19 Pinion Shaft Lock Screw
1 - LOCK SCREW
2 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 20 Axle Shaft C-Lock
1 - C-LOCK
2 - AXLE SHAFT
3 - SIDE GEARFig. 21 Axle Seal
1 - AXLE TUBE
2 - AXLE SEAL
3-PRYBAR
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 101

(7) Measure rotating torque of the pinion gear
with an inch pound torque wrench and record the
reading for installation reference.
(8) Hold the pinion yoke with Holder 6719 and
remove the pinion nut and washer.
(9) Remove yoke with Remover C-452 (Fig. 24).
(10) Remove pinion seal with a pry tool or screw
mounted to a slide-hammer mounted.
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a light coating of gear lubricant on the
lip of pinion seal.
NOTE: The outer perimeter of the seal is pre-coated
with a special sealant. An additional application of
sealant is not required.
(2) Install thenewpinion seal (Fig. 25) with
Installer C-4076-A and Handle C-4735.
(3) Install pinion yoke on the shaft with the refer-
ence marks aligned.
(4) Seat yoke on pinion shaft with Installer C-3718
and Holder 6719A.
(5) Remove the tools and install the pinion yoke
washer. The convex side of the washer must face out-
ward.
(6) Using yoke Holder 6719A tighten shaft nut to
285 N´m (210 ft. lbs.) (Fig. 26). Rotate the pinion sev-
eral revolutions to ensure the bearing rollers are
seated.
(7) Rotate the pinion using an inch pound torque
wrench. Rotating torque should be equal to the read-
ing recorded during removal, plus an additional 0.56
N´m (5 in. lbs.) (Fig. 27).CAUTION: Never loosen pinion nut to decrease pin-
ion rotating torque and never exceed specified pre-
load torque. If preload torque is exceeded a new
collapsible spacer must be installed.
(8) If the rotating torque is low, use Holder 6719A
(Fig. 26) and tighten the pinion nut in 6.8 N´m (5 ft.
Fig. 24 Pinion Yoke
1 - PINION YOKE
2 - REMOVER
Fig. 25 Pinion Seal Installer
1 - HANDLE
2 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
3 - INSTALLER
Fig. 26 Tightening Pinion Nut
1 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
2 - YOKE HOLDER
3 - TORQUE WRENCH
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 103
PINION SEAL (Continued)

(9) Hold the differential case while removing bear-
ing caps and adjusters.
(10) Remove the differential case.
NOTE: Tag bearing cups and threaded adjusters
location, for installation reference.
DISASSEMBLY
(1) Remove pinion shaft lock screw (Fig. 30).
(2) Remove pinion shaft.
(3) Rotate differential side gears and remove dif-
ferential pinions and thrust washers (Fig. 31).
(4) Remove differential side gears and thrust
washers.
ASSEMBLY
(1) Install differential side gears and thrust wash-
ers.
(2) Install differential pinion and thrust washers.
(3) Install the pinion shaft.
(4) Align the hole in the pinion shaft with the hole
in the differential case and install the pinion shaft
lock screw.
(5) Lubricate all differential components with
hypoid gear lubricant.
INSTALLATION
(1) Apply a coating of hypoid gear lubricant to the
differential bearings, bearing cups and threaded
adjusters. A dab of grease can be used to keep the
adjusters in position. Carefully position the assem-
bled differential case in the housing.
(2) Install differential bearing caps in their origi-
nal locations (Fig. 32).(3) Install bearing cap bolts and tighten the upper
bolts to 14 N´m (10 ft. lbs.). Tighten the lower bolts
finger-tight until the bolt head is seated.
(4) Perform the differential bearing preload and
adjustment procedure.
(5) Tighten bearing cap bolts in a criss-cross pat-
tern to 95 N´m (70 ft.lbs).
Fig. 30 Pinion Shaft Lock Screw
1 - LOCK SCREW
2 - PINION SHAFT
Fig. 31 Differential Case
1 - THRUST WASHER
2 - SIDE GEAR
3 - DIFFERENTIAL PINION
Fig. 32 Bearing Caps & Bolts
1 - REFERENCE MARKS
2 - REFERENCE MARKS
3 - DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
4 - BEARING CAP
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 105
DIFFERENTIAL (Continued)

(16) Remove differential case from the fixture.
Remove side gear, clutch pack retainer and clutch
pack. Keep plates in order during removal.
CLEANING
Clean all components in cleaning solvent and dry
components with compressed air.
INSPECTION
Inspect clutch pack plates for wear, scoring or dam-
age. Replace both clutch packs if any one component
in either pack is damaged. Inspect side and pinion
gears for cracks chips or damage and replace as nec-
essary. Inspect differential case and pinion shaft and
replace if worn or damaged.
ASSEMBLY
Lubricate each component with gear lubricant
before assembly.
NOTE: New Plates and discs with fiber coating (no
grooves or lines) must be presoaked in Friction
Modifier before assembly. Soak plates and discs for
a minimum of 20 minutes.
(1) Assemble the clutch discs into packs and
secure disc packs with retaining clips (Fig. 42).
(2) Install assembled clutch disc packs on the side
gear hubs.(3) Install clutch pack and side gear in the ring
gear side of the differential case (Fig. 43).Verify
clutch pack retaining clips are in position and
seated in the case pockets.
(4) Set differential case on Fixture 8138.
(5) Install lubricated Disc 8140 without the hole in
lower side gear (Fig. 44).
(6) Install the upper side gear and clutch disc pack
(Fig. 44).
(7) Hold assembly in position. Insert Disc 8140
with threaded hole into top side gear.
(8) Install Forcing Screw 6960-4 and tighten screw
to slightly compress clutch disc.
(9) Place pinion gears in position in side gears and
verify that the pinion mate shaft hole is aligned.
(10) Rotate case with Turning Bar 6960-2 until the
pinion mate shaft holes in pinion gears align with
holes in case. It may be necessary to slightly tighten
the forcing screw in order to install the pinion gears.
(11) Tighten forcing screw to 122 N´m (90 ft. lbs.)
maximum to compress the Belleville springs.
(12) Lubricate and install thrust washers behind
pinion gears and align washers with a small screw
driver. Insert mate shaft into each pinion gear to ver-
ify alignment.
(13) Remove forcing screw and discs.
Fig. 42 CLUTCH DISC PACK
1 - CLUTCH PACK
2 - RETAINER
3 - SIDE GEAR
4 - RETAINER
Fig. 43 CLUTCH PACK AND LOWER SIDE GEAR
1 - DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2 - LOWER SIDE GEAR AND CLUTCH PACK
KJREAR AXLE - 8 1/4 3 - 109
DIFFERENTIAL - TRAC-LOK (Continued)

(10) Remove pinion shaft seal with a pry tool or
slide-hammer mounted screw.
(11) Remove oil slinger, if equipped, and front pin-
ion bearing.
(12) Remove front pinion bearing cup with
Remover C-4345 and Handle C-4171 (Fig. 50).
(13) Remove rear bearing cup from housing (Fig.
51) with Remover C-4307 and Handle C-4171.
(14) Remove collapsible preload spacer (Fig. 52).
(15) Remove rear bearing from the pinion (Fig. 53)
with Puller/Press C-293-PA and Adapters C-293-47.
(16) Remove depth shims from the pinion shaft
and record the shims thickness.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: A pinion depth shim/oil baffle is placed
between the rear pinion bearing cone and pinion
gear. If the ring and pinion gears are reused, the
original pinion depth shim/oil baffle can be used.
Refer to Adjustments (Pinion Gear Depth) to select
the proper shim thickness if ring and pinion gear
are replaced.
(1) Apply Mopar Door Ease or equivalent lubricant
to outside surface of pinion bearing cups.
(2) Install rear pinion bearing cup (Fig. 54) with
Installer C-4308 and Handle C-4171 and verify cup is
seated.(3) Install front pinion bearing cup (Fig. 55) with
Installer D-130 and Handle C-4171 and verify cup is
seated.
Fig. 50 Front Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - REMOVER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 51 Rear Pinion Bearing Cup
1 - DRIVER
2 - HANDLE
Fig. 52 Collapsible Spacer
1 - COLLAPSIBLE SPACER
2 - SHOULDER
3 - PINION
4 - PINION DEPTH SHIM
5 - REAR BEARING
3 - 112 REAR AXLE-81/4KJ
PINION GEAR/RING GEAR/TONE RING (Continued)

BRAKE LINES
DESCRIPTION
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Double walled
steel tubing is used to connect the master cylinder to
the major hydraulic braking components and then to
the flexible rubber hoses. Double inverted style and
ISO style flares are used on the brake lines.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - BRAKE LINE AND
HOSES
Flexible rubber hose is used at both front brakes
and at the rear axle junction block. Inspect the hoses
whenever the brake system is serviced, at every
engine oil change, or whenever the vehicle is in for
service.
Inspect the hoses for surface cracking, scuffing, or
worn spots. Replace any brake hose immediately if
the fabric casing of the hose is exposed due to cracks
or abrasions.
Also check brake hose installation. Faulty installa-
tion can result in kinked, twisted hoses, or contact
with the wheels and tires or other chassis compo-
nents. All of these conditions can lead to scuffing,
cracking and eventual failure.
The steel brake lines should be inspected periodi-
cally for evidence of corrosion, twists, kinks, leaks, or
other damage. Heavily corroded lines will eventually
rust through causing leaks. In any case, corroded or
damaged brake lines should be replaced.
Factory replacement brake lines and hoses are rec-
ommended to ensure quality, correct length and supe-
rior fatigue life. Care should be taken to make sure
that brake line and hose mating surfaces are clean
and free from nicks and burrs. Also remember that
right and left brake hoses are not interchangeable.
Use new copper seal washers at all caliper connec-
tions. Be sure brake line connections are properly
made (not cross threaded) and tightened to recom-
mended torque.
STANDARD PROCEDURE
STANDARD PROCEDURE - DOUBLE INVERTED
FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Ream cut edges of tubing to ensure proper
flare.
(3) Install replacement tube nut on the tube.
(4) Insert tube in flaring tool.
(5) Place gauge form over the end of the tube.
(6) Push tubing through flaring tool jaws until
tube contacts recessed notch in gauge that matches
tube diameter.
(7) Tighten the tool bar on the tube
(8) Insert plug on gauge in the tube. Then swing
compression disc over gauge and center tapered flar-
ing screw in recess of compression disc (Fig. 2).
(9) Tighten tool handle until plug gauge is
squarely seated on jaws of flaring tool. This will start
the inverted flare.
(10) Remove the plug gauge and complete the
inverted flare.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ISO FLARING
A preformed metal brake tube is recommended and
preferred for all repairs. However, double-wall steel
tube can be used for emergency repair when factory
replacement parts are not readily available.
Special bending tools are needed to avoid kinking
or twisting of metal brake tubes. Special flaring tools
are needed to make a double inverted flare or ISO
flare.
To make a ISO flare use a ISO brake flaring tool or
equivalent.
(1) Cut off damaged tube with Tubing Cutter.
(2) Remove any burrs from the inside of the tube.
(3) Install tube nut on the tube.
Fig. 2 Inverted
5 - 8 BRAKES - BASEKJ

(4) Position the tube in the flaring tool flush with
the top of the tool bar (Fig. 3). Then tighten the tool
bar on the tube.
(5) Install the correct size adaptor on the flaring
tool yoke screw.
(6) Lubricate the adaptor.
(7) Align the adaptor and yoke screw over the tube
(Fig. 3).
(8) Turn the yoke screw in until the adaptor is
squarely seated on the tool bar.
REMOVAL
REMOVAL - FRONT HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Remove the brake line from the brake hose
inside the engine compartment by the front control
arm bolt (Fig. 4).
(3) Raise and support vehicle.
(4) Remove the brake hose banjo bolt at the cali-
per.
(5) Remove the mounting bolt for the top of the
brake hose at the vehicle (Fig. 5).
(6) Remove the hose.
REMOVAL - REAR BRAKE HOSE
(1) Install prop rod on the brake pedal to keep
pressure on the brake system.
(2) Raise and support the vehicle.
(3) Remove the brake line from the hose at the
body (Fig. 6).
(4) Remove the brake hose mounting bolt at the
top of the hose located at the body (Fig. 6).
(5) Remove the vent tube (Fig. 7).
(6) Remove the two brake lines at the bottom of
the hose located at the axle (Fig. 7).
(7) Remove the mounting bolt for the brake hose
at the axle (Fig. 7).
(8) Remove the hose.
Fig. 3 ISO Flaring
1 - ADAPTER
2 - LUBRICATE HERE
3 - PILOT
4 - FLUSH WITH BAR
5 - TUBING
6 - BAR ASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 INNER FENDER BRAKE LINE
1 - GROMMET
2 - BRAKE LINE
Fig. 5 FRONT BRAKE HOSE
1 - TOP OF FRONT BRAKE HOSE
2 - WHEEL SPEED SENSOR WIRE
3 - UPPER CONTROL ARM
KJBRAKES - BASE 5 - 9
BRAKE LINES (Continued)

(4) Tighten booster mounting nuts to 22.6 N´m
(200 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install the knee blocker,(Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/KNEE BLOCKER - INSTAL-
LATION).
(6) If original master cylinder is being installed,
check condition of seal at rear of master cylinder.
Replace seal if cut, or torn.
(7) Clean cylinder mounting surface of brake
booster. Use shop towel wetted with brake cleaner for
this purpose. Dirt, grease, or similar materials will
prevent proper cylinder seating and could result in
vacuum leak.
(8) Align and install master cylinder on the
booster studs. Install mounting nuts and tighten to
22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(9) Connect vacuum hose to booster check valve.
(10) Remount the HCU. Tighten bracket mounting
nuts to 22.6 N´m (200 in. lbs.).
(11) Connect and secure the brake lines to HCU or
junction block and master cylinder. Start all brake
line fittings by hand to avoid cross threading.
(12) Connect the wire to fluid level switch at the
bottom of the reservoir.
(13) Fill and bleed base brake system,(Refer to 5 -
BRAKES - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Verify proper brake operation before moving
vehicle.
MASTER CYLINDER
DESCRIPTION
The master cylinder has a removable nylon reser-
voir. The cylinder body is made of aluminum and
contains a primary and secondary piston assembly.
The cylinder body including the piston assemblies
are not serviceable. If diagnosis indicates an internal
problem with the cylinder body, it must be replaced
as an assembly. The reservoir and grommets are the
only replaceable parts on the master cylinder.
OPERATION
The master cylinder bore contains a primary and
secondary piston. The primary piston supplies
hydraulic pressure to the front brakes. The secondary
piston supplies hydraulic pressure to the rear brakes.
The master cylinder reservoir stores reserve brake
fluid for the hydraulic brake circuits.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - MASTER
CYLINDER/POWER BOOSTER
(1) Start engine and check booster vacuum hose
connections. A hissing noise indicates vacuum leak.
Correct any vacuum leak before proceeding.(2) Stop engine and shift transmission into Neu-
tral.
(3) Pump brake pedal until all vacuum reserve in
booster is depleted.
(4) Press and hold brake pedal under light foot
pressure. The pedal should hold firm, if the pedal
falls away master cylinder is faulty (internal leak-
age).
(5) Start engine and note pedal action. It should
fall away slightly under light foot pressure then hold
firm. If no pedal action is discernible, power booster,
vacuum supply, or vacuum check valve is faulty. Pro-
ceed to the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST.
(6) If the POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
passes, rebuild booster vacuum reserve as follows:
Release brake pedal. Increase engine speed to 1500
rpm, close the throttle and immediately turn off igni-
tion to stop engine.
(7) Wait a minimum of 90 seconds and try brake
action again. Booster should provide two or more vac-
uum assisted pedal applications. If vacuum assist is
not provided, booster is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER VACUUM TEST
(1) Connect vacuum gauge to booster check valve
with short length of hose and T-fitting (Fig. 38).
(2) Start and run engine at curb idle speed for one
minute.
(3) Observe the vacuum supply. If vacuum supply
is not adequate, repair vacuum supply.
(4) Clamp hose shut between vacuum source and
check valve.
(5) Stop engine and observe vacuum gauge.
(6) If vacuum drops more than one inch HG (33
millibars) within 15 seconds, booster diaphragm or
check valve is faulty.
POWER BOOSTER CHECK VALVE TEST
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose from check valve.
(2) Remove check valve and valve seal from
booster.
(3) Use a hand operated vacuum pump for test.
(4) Apply 15-20 inches vacuum at large end of
check valve (Fig. 39).
(5) Vacuum should hold steady. If gauge on pump
indicates vacuum loss, check valve is faulty and
should be replaced.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - MASTER CYLINDER
BLEEDING
A new master cylinder should be bled before instal-
lation on the vehicle. Required bleeding tools include
bleed tubes and a wood dowel to stroke the pistons.
Bleed tubes can be fabricated from brake line.
(1) Mount master cylinder in vise.
5 - 24 BRAKES - BASEKJ
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (Continued)